Steamed and Pan-Roasted Duck with Honeyed Quince Compote Home cooks who wouldn't think twice about roasting chickens, turkeys, and game hens come down with an extreme case of the w.i.l.l.i.e.s when presented with duck. Their reasoning goes something like this: Duck is swathed in fat; to get the skin to crisp properly, you need to roast the duck at a high temperature; roasting duck at a high temperature causes the fat to smoke. Result: a trashed kitchen, duck with insufficiently crisp skin, and an unpleasant layer of fat that still remains between the skin and the meat. You give up. twice about roasting chickens, turkeys, and game hens come down with an extreme case of the w.i.l.l.i.e.s when presented with duck. Their reasoning goes something like this: Duck is swathed in fat; to get the skin to crisp properly, you need to roast the duck at a high temperature; roasting duck at a high temperature causes the fat to smoke. Result: a trashed kitchen, duck with insufficiently crisp skin, and an unpleasant layer of fat that still remains between the skin and the meat. You give up.

This recipe offers a foolproof alternative. The duck is steamed in a roasting pan on top of the stove, which renders much of the fat (without the mess), then pan-roasted in pieces on top of the stove at a relatively low temperature. The skin is crisp, the fat is either removed or rendered, and the meat is juicy and rich. In addition, the recipe offers you several different ways of serving the duck, depending on the number of diners and the amount of time and energy you wish to invest. The simplest approach is just to serve the duck unadorned. Believe me, the taste of the meat and the skin will carry the day. With very little more effort, you can make a spicy duck glaze or a honeyed quince compote. A really fancy occasion will call for both. The directions on page 319 explain how to double this recipe; you can even stretch a single duck to serve 4.

A nonstick or disposable deep roasting pan will significantly reduce or eliminate cleanup after the steaming; a nonstick V-rack is also a cleanup timesaver. You will also need a large cast-iron frying pan or heavy saute pan (nonstick, if you prefer, but not absolutely necessary), along with a lid.

If you have leftovers, pan-roasted duck will keep for several days. Instead of reheating it, I prefer to treat it like the rare ingredient it is and use it to enhance other dishes. Chopped duck (without the skin) can be added to mushroom risotto during the last addition of broth. While the risotto is cooking, slice the skin into matchsticks and crisp it in a small saute pan. When the risotto is finished, garnish each portion with a sprinkling of duck cracklings. A little chopped duck meat also adds incredible depth to a simple tomato sauce for pasta. Saute cup diced pancetta until the fat begins to render, add the chopped duck, and cook for another minute. Add this mixture to a plain tomato sauce and simmer for 20 minutes. Serve over fresh pappardelle.

MAKES 2 ENTReE SERVINGS (SEE DUCK FOR MORE THAN TWO, PAGE 319, IF YOU WANT TO STRETCH IT.

One 5-pound Long Island duck STEAMING MIXTURE.

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh ginger 2 tablespoons 5-spice powder cup honey cup dry sherry Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

cup vegetable oil, or as needed Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Honeyed Quince Compote (recipe follows; optional) Spicy Duck Glaze (recipe follows; optional) DO AHEAD: The duck can be rubbed with spices, steamed, and cut apart a day before pan-roasting if you're facing a time crunch on the day of serving, but don't pan-roast it until you're ready to serve it. In an ideal world, the best thing to do would be to rub the duck with the mixture of steaming spices and then let it sit uncovered in the refrigerator for a day before finishing the recipe. The Honeyed Quince Compote can also be made a day ahead, then warmed before serving. The duck can be rubbed with spices, steamed, and cut apart a day before pan-roasting if you're facing a time crunch on the day of serving, but don't pan-roast it until you're ready to serve it. In an ideal world, the best thing to do would be to rub the duck with the mixture of steaming spices and then let it sit uncovered in the refrigerator for a day before finishing the recipe. The Honeyed Quince Compote can also be made a day ahead, then warmed before serving.

STEAMING.

1. Remove the paper sack containing the gizzard, heart, and liver from the cavity of the duck and discard or reserve for another use. The neck may be in the sack or in the cavity of the duck; in either event, discard it too or reserve for another use. Rinse the duck inside and out. Pat dry. Cut off the last two segments of the wings and discard. Cut off the fatty flaps around the neck opening and trim the fat from around the opening of the body cavity. Discard the tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs. Carefully poke the skin of the bird all over with a fork or skewer. Try not to penetrate beyond the fat layer into the meat-if you go too far, the meat juices will run out during cooking as well as the fat. Approaching the skin from a sharp angle instead of straight in will help. Remove the paper sack containing the gizzard, heart, and liver from the cavity of the duck and discard or reserve for another use. The neck may be in the sack or in the cavity of the duck; in either event, discard it too or reserve for another use. Rinse the duck inside and out. Pat dry. Cut off the last two segments of the wings and discard. Cut off the fatty flaps around the neck opening and trim the fat from around the opening of the body cavity. Discard the tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs. Carefully poke the skin of the bird all over with a fork or skewer. Try not to penetrate beyond the fat layer into the meat-if you go too far, the meat juices will run out during cooking as well as the fat. Approaching the skin from a sharp angle instead of straight in will help.

2. Mix the ginger, 5-spice powder, honey, and sherry together. Rub the mixture all over the duck, inside and out. Sprinkle the duck liberally with salt and pepper, inside and out. Mix the ginger, 5-spice powder, honey, and sherry together. Rub the mixture all over the duck, inside and out. Sprinkle the duck liberally with salt and pepper, inside and out.

3. Set the duck breast side down on a rack, preferable a V-rack, in a roasting pan. Add 1 inch of water. Bring to a boil on top of the stove. Lower the heat to a simmer. Cover (use foil if your roasting pan doesn't have a lid) and steam for 30 minutes. Flip the duck and steam for another 30 minutes. Remove the duck from the pan and allow to cool. Set the duck breast side down on a rack, preferable a V-rack, in a roasting pan. Add 1 inch of water. Bring to a boil on top of the stove. Lower the heat to a simmer. Cover (use foil if your roasting pan doesn't have a lid) and steam for 30 minutes. Flip the duck and steam for another 30 minutes. Remove the duck from the pan and allow to cool.

PAN-ROASTING.

4. Cut the duck into 4 pieces (see How to Break Down a Duck, page 250). Cut the duck into 4 pieces (see How to Break Down a Duck, page 250).

5. Heat an. -inch layer of vegetable oil in a large saute pan over high heat. The pan must have a thick heavy bottom so it conducts the heat evenly; hot spots will cause the duck skin to burn. A nonstick pan will help alleviate the chance of sticking, but it's not necessary if the pan is heavy and you wait to add the duck until the oil is quite hot. If the oil is not hot when you add the duck pieces, the skin will stick and burn. Sprinkle the duck pieces liberally with salt and pepper. When the oil is hot, almost smoking, add the duck pieces skin side down-do not disturb them once you have set them in the pan-allow them to sear for 1 minute, then adjust the heat to low, cover the pan, and cook until the meat is tender and the skin is crisp, 50 to 60 minutes. Check every 15 minutes to be sure the skin isn't burning. Pour off excess fat as it acc.u.mulates. An instant-read thermometer should read 180F when inserted into one of the thighs when the duck is finished. Heat an. -inch layer of vegetable oil in a large saute pan over high heat. The pan must have a thick heavy bottom so it conducts the heat evenly; hot spots will cause the duck skin to burn. A nonstick pan will help alleviate the chance of sticking, but it's not necessary if the pan is heavy and you wait to add the duck until the oil is quite hot. If the oil is not hot when you add the duck pieces, the skin will stick and burn. Sprinkle the duck pieces liberally with salt and pepper. When the oil is hot, almost smoking, add the duck pieces skin side down-do not disturb them once you have set them in the pan-allow them to sear for 1 minute, then adjust the heat to low, cover the pan, and cook until the meat is tender and the skin is crisp, 50 to 60 minutes. Check every 15 minutes to be sure the skin isn't burning. Pour off excess fat as it acc.u.mulates. An instant-read thermometer should read 180F when inserted into one of the thighs when the duck is finished.

6. Meanwhile, make the Honeyed Quince Compote and the duck glaze if using, and keep warm. Meanwhile, make the Honeyed Quince Compote and the duck glaze if using, and keep warm.

7. Place a duck breast and leg/thigh piece on each plate. Place 2 honeyed quince quarters on each plate, if using. Sauce the duck with the glaze, if using. Serve immediately. Place a duck breast and leg/thigh piece on each plate. Place 2 honeyed quince quarters on each plate, if using. Sauce the duck with the glaze, if using. Serve immediately.

HOW TO BREAK DOWN A DUCKThis is a great method for cutting a whole duck into pieces, especially if you intend to saute the duck in order to crisp the skin. The old-fashioned tableside technique was to carve or pry the meat off the breast, then cut the legs off by slicing through the joint where the thigh meets the body. The technique described below is the one used by restaurant cooks. It's a little messier, but it's faster and easier, results in very neat duck pieces, and has the added advantage of allowing you to remove leftover pockets of fat. Wait until the duck has cooled if possible-it's more comfortable to handle. Wearing a pair of disposable latex gloves provides a layer of insulation if the duck is still warm and makes cleanup easier.1. Begin by cutting the duck in half lengthwise, using a sharp chef's knife or poultry shears. First slice through the breastbone, then carefully slice down along both sides of the backbone. Discard the backbone or save for stock.2. Lay a duck half in front of you, skin side up. Make a single diagonal slice to separate the leg-thigh piece from the breast. Be generous-you want to leave as much thigh meat attached to the leg as possible. If you're uncertain where to cut, flip the breast over and locate the joint where the thigh joins the body. You want to cut a few inches forward of that joint to get all the meat. Repeat with the remaining duck half.3. Flip over the duck breast. Snap the joint where the wing joins the breastbone, but leave the wing attached. Peel off the breastbone and any other surface bones. If you see any pocket of fat remaining under the breast, use your finger to scoop it out. Repeat with the remaining breast.4. Examine each leg/thigh. Your goal is to peel away all the exposed bone on the underside. This will probably include a small portion of hip that joins the thigh. Snap the joint where the thigh bone joins the drumstick. Pull out the thigh bone. When you finish, there shouldn't be any bones left in the piece except the drumstick. If you can see a pocket of fat next to the thigh, remove it with your finger.5. You now have 4 pieces of almost boneless duck with skin intact-2 breast pieces, with wings attached, and 2 legs/thighs.

Honeyed Quince Compote The quinces take on a lovely rose color in this sweet syrup. Although I've suggested that the fruit accompany duck, it goes well with just about any strong, dark meat, including dark-meat turkey, goose, quail, and venison. lovely rose color in this sweet syrup. Although I've suggested that the fruit accompany duck, it goes well with just about any strong, dark meat, including dark-meat turkey, goose, quail, and venison.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

cup water teaspoon kosher salt cup freshly squeezed lemon juice, plus additional to make acidulated water cup honey teaspoon 5-spice powder 1 cinnamon stick 1 star anise 2 ripe quinces, peeled, cored, and quartered (if preparing ahead, store in water acidulated with lemon juice) 1. Combine everything except the quinces in a small nonreactive saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and add the quince quarters. Poach until tender (a knife should slide through the fruit easily), about 30 minutes. The fruit will have a lovely pinkorange hue. Combine everything except the quinces in a small nonreactive saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and add the quince quarters. Poach until tender (a knife should slide through the fruit easily), about 30 minutes. The fruit will have a lovely pinkorange hue.

2. Remove the quince pieces. Reduce the poaching liquid to a syrup, then return the quince pieces to the pan. Serve the quinces warm in their syrup. Remove the quince pieces. Reduce the poaching liquid to a syrup, then return the quince pieces to the pan. Serve the quinces warm in their syrup.

Spicy Duck GlazeMAKES CUP cup honey cup dry sherry 1 teaspoon 5-spice powder 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice Combine everything except the lemon juice in a small nonreactive saucepan and bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer. Cook for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the lemon juice. Pour over the duck just before serving.

Beef Veal, Pork, Lamb, and Game Any cook can blunder her way through a few bad roast chickens until she manages to produce an edible one; with a shoulder of veal, though, there are too many variables that need to be right, or relatively right, to create a glorious finale. The process is comparable to the difference between riding a bicycle and driving a car with a standard transmission: you can learn to do the first on your own; for the second, you need an instructor. This chapter is a short course in traditional meat know-how. way through a few bad roast chickens until she manages to produce an edible one; with a shoulder of veal, though, there are too many variables that need to be right, or relatively right, to create a glorious finale. The process is comparable to the difference between riding a bicycle and driving a car with a standard transmission: you can learn to do the first on your own; for the second, you need an instructor. This chapter is a short course in traditional meat know-how.

A selection of grilling and pan-searing recipes, the simplest approaches to meat, will appeal to straight-ahead carnivores. But the heart of the chapter is in the methods for cooking meat slowly-braising and roasting. Braising, or long, slow cooking in a moist environment flavored with wine and aromatics, reduces even the most recalcitrant cut of meat to spoon-tender succulence. Roasting, by contrast, caramelizes the exterior of the meat, and the recipes in this chapter demonstrate the variety of effects possible with marinades, rubs, and crusts.

I hope a few of these dishes will lure you into unfamiliar territory. Thin-Sliced Calves' Liver with Greens, Dijon Mustard Sauce, and Vinegared Grapes should make it clear why liver on the French side of the Atlantic is a bistro staple-it's simple to prepare and tastes great. If you've ever hesitated about taking the plunge and trying to cook venison at home, Peppered Venison with Sherry Sauce and Dried Fruit Chutney will get you started.

Before you launch into these recipes, you may want to consider investing in a few kitchen essentials. An instant-read digital thermometer is indispensable for determining doneness, especially with roasts. If you combine the use of a thermometer with testing grilled or sauteed meat by poking it with your finger, you will soon be able to tell the doneness of a steak or other thinly cut piece of meat by feel alone. Two pieces of cookware are necessary for successful sauteing and braising: a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan (two would be ideal), and a large Dutch oven or cast-iron ca.s.serole. Heavy-bottomed cookware conducts heat evenly; by preventing "hot spots, " it ensures that the pot's contents cook evenly, which is necessary for pan-searing or sauteing. The Dutch oven, as large and heavy as you can afford (6 quarts is good; 8 is better), must be both capacious enough to contain several pounds of meat, vegetables, and braising liquids and, again, heavy enough to conduct heat evenly for slow, even cooking over several hours. Finally, a seemingly common item that all of us have-except when we need it-is butcher's twine, essential for holding stuffed pieces of meat together or helping thick medallions to maintain their shape in a saute pan.

Seared Sirloin Tips with Red Wine Pan Juices and Anchovy b.u.t.ter Sirloin tip steaks are cut, as their name suggests, from the bottom tip of the sirloin. They're a moderately priced cut of meat with a great sink-your-teeth-into-this texture and beefy flavor that takes well to marinating and pan-searing or grilling. Supermarkets tend to package them cut into either cubes (for skewers) or strips 4 to 6 inches long, about an inch thick, and a couple of inches wide. If you have an agreeable butcher, ask him to cut 1 to 2 pounds of sirloin tip into just four pieces, which will make them about double the ordinary width; otherwise, just buy them in their usual strip shape. By the way, some stores sell sirloin tips as "steak tips, " while others see "steak tips" as a more attractive way to market stewing beef. If you're at all uncertain, you can't go wrong by simply subst.i.tuting the slightly more expensive flank steak for sirloin tips and cutting it into four pieces yourself at home.

Treating meat to an anchovy marinade, pan-searing it, and then serving it with a flavored b.u.t.ter is a cla.s.sic French bistro formula for handling an inexpensive cut of beef. It's also my husband's favorite recipe for sirloin tips or flank or skirt steaks on the grill during the summer. Cold leftovers make excellent sandwiches on crusty bread; or add cut-up pieces to tomato sauce and serve over pasta.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

MARINADE.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 shallots, minced 4 garlic cloves, minced 2 anchovies, rinsed and chopped 1 cup dry red wine 4 bay leaves 2 tablespoons freshly cracked black pepper 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

1 to 2 pounds sirloin tips (depending on appet.i.te) Kosher salt 2 to 4 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 tablespoons water teaspoon red wine vinegar 2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter Freshly ground black pepper (optional) 1 recipe Anchovy b.u.t.ter (page 256; optional) DO AHEAD: Marinate the meat for at least 3 hours (12 is optimal). Marinate the meat for at least 3 hours (12 is optimal).

1. To make the marinade, heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil with the shallots and garlic in a saute pan over medium heat and cook until they are tender and aromatic, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the anchovies and red wine. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. To make the marinade, heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil with the shallots and garlic in a saute pan over medium heat and cook until they are tender and aromatic, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the anchovies and red wine. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.

2. Place the meat in a nonreactive container or a couple of large resealable plastic freezer bags. Add the bay leaves, cracked black pepper, and thyme to the marinade. Pour the marinade over the meat. Make sure the meat is completely covered. Cover (or seal the bags) and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours and up to 12 hours, turning occasionally. Place the meat in a nonreactive container or a couple of large resealable plastic freezer bags. Add the bay leaves, cracked black pepper, and thyme to the marinade. Pour the marinade over the meat. Make sure the meat is completely covered. Cover (or seal the bags) and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours and up to 12 hours, turning occasionally.

3. Remove the sirloin tips from the marinade and pat dry. Do not discard the marinade. Sprinkle the meat on both sides with salt. Remove the sirloin tips from the marinade and pat dry. Do not discard the marinade. Sprinkle the meat on both sides with salt.

4. Heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a large saute pan over high heat. If the tips won't fit comfortably in the pan without touching, use a second pan and another 2 tablespoons oil. Add the tips and sear on each side, turning once. The tips will get a nice brown crust as they cook. After they've had a chance to sear for 2 to 3 minutes on each side (less, if you want them rare), check them for doneness with an instant-read digital thermometer. Remove them at 126F for medium-rare. Transfer the tips to a platter and cover loosely with aluminum foil while you make the sauce. Heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a large saute pan over high heat. If the tips won't fit comfortably in the pan without touching, use a second pan and another 2 tablespoons oil. Add the tips and sear on each side, turning once. The tips will get a nice brown crust as they cook. After they've had a chance to sear for 2 to 3 minutes on each side (less, if you want them rare), check them for doneness with an instant-read digital thermometer. Remove them at 126F for medium-rare. Transfer the tips to a platter and cover loosely with aluminum foil while you make the sauce.

5. Add the reserved marinade and the water to the pan. (If you cooked the meat in two pans, just use one of them to make the sauce.) Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and let simmer for 4 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, add the vinegar, and whisk in the b.u.t.ter. Taste and adjust the seasoning as necessary. Add the reserved marinade and the water to the pan. (If you cooked the meat in two pans, just use one of them to make the sauce.) Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and let simmer for 4 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, add the vinegar, and whisk in the b.u.t.ter. Taste and adjust the seasoning as necessary.

6. Pour the sauce over the tips. Dot the meat in three or four places with a tablespoon of the anchovy b.u.t.ter, if using. Serve immediately, offering additional anchovy b.u.t.ter on the side. Pour the sauce over the tips. Dot the meat in three or four places with a tablespoon of the anchovy b.u.t.ter, if using. Serve immediately, offering additional anchovy b.u.t.ter on the side.

Anchovy b.u.t.ter I learned to make anchovy b.u.t.ter learned to make anchovy b.u.t.ter from Lydia Shire, one of Boston's pioneer female chefs, who served it with lobster. The experience was a revelation. I was amazed at how the anchovies metamorphosed from their salty incarnation as a topping for pizza into something almost sweet. People who instinctively shy away from unadulterated anchovies can find themselves quite taken by anchovy b.u.t.ter, especially with seafood. from Lydia Shire, one of Boston's pioneer female chefs, who served it with lobster. The experience was a revelation. I was amazed at how the anchovies metamorphosed from their salty incarnation as a topping for pizza into something almost sweet. People who instinctively shy away from unadulterated anchovies can find themselves quite taken by anchovy b.u.t.ter, especially with seafood.

The b.u.t.ter needs to be at room temperature (65 to 70F, no warmer) before you can prepare the recipe. In a pinch, you can use the anchovy b.u.t.ter as soon as everything is blended together, but it tastes and looks better if you allow it to chill for 45 minutes before serving. I usually double this recipe and put half of it in my freezer; we inevitably find a use for it within a month. After a day or two in the refrigerator, the flavors of fresh thyme and parsley in the anchovy b.u.t.ter fade and the anchovy becomes more p.r.o.nounced. Frozen anchovy b.u.t.ter keeps its flavor for about a month.

MAKES ABOUT POUND.

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, at room temperature 1 large shallot, minced 2 garlic cloves, minced teaspoon chopped fresh thyme 1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 6 anchovy fillets, rinsed and finely chopped Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 1. Melt 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter in a small pan over low heat. Add the shallot and garlic and cook until the shallot becomes translucent and you can smell the garlic's aroma, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool. Melt 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter in a small pan over low heat. Add the shallot and garlic and cook until the shallot becomes translucent and you can smell the garlic's aroma, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool.

2. Mix the shallot and garlic with the remaining b.u.t.ter, the herbs, and anchovies in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Add the lemon juice. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Mix the shallot and garlic with the remaining b.u.t.ter, the herbs, and anchovies in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Add the lemon juice. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

3. Place on a sheet of plastic wrap, form into a roll, and chill until firm, at least 45 minutes. Place on a sheet of plastic wrap, form into a roll, and chill until firm, at least 45 minutes.

4. Once the b.u.t.ter is firm, you can open the plastic wrap and slice off tablespoon-sized pieces as needed. Place 1 piece on top of each portion of meat or seafood just before serving. If the b.u.t.ter was molded in a ramekin, offer the anchovy b.u.t.ter in the ramekin on the side, along with a small serving knife or spoon. Once the b.u.t.ter is firm, you can open the plastic wrap and slice off tablespoon-sized pieces as needed. Place 1 piece on top of each portion of meat or seafood just before serving. If the b.u.t.ter was molded in a ramekin, offer the anchovy b.u.t.ter in the ramekin on the side, along with a small serving knife or spoon.

Braised Short Ribs of Beef with Red Wine, Apricots, and Black Olives Short ribs are one of my favorite meats for braising, a fail-safe ill.u.s.tration of the transformative powers of slow cooking with a little liquid. The ribs start out unappealingly tough and covered with fat, but 2 to 3 hours of braising softens them into a dish of otherworldly tenderness. The fat melts off the meat and, in this recipe, the apricots and olives blend into something with a distinctive eastern Mediterranean flavor. Although you can certainly enjoy this dish on the same day you make it, like all braised meats, these ribs taste better made a day or two before serving. The ribs and sauce should be refrigerated in the same container so that the meat absorbs the flavors of the braising juices. After sc.r.a.ping any congealed fat from the surface of the sauce, reheat, covered, in a 350F oven for 20 to 30 minutes. my favorite meats for braising, a fail-safe ill.u.s.tration of the transformative powers of slow cooking with a little liquid. The ribs start out unappealingly tough and covered with fat, but 2 to 3 hours of braising softens them into a dish of otherworldly tenderness. The fat melts off the meat and, in this recipe, the apricots and olives blend into something with a distinctive eastern Mediterranean flavor. Although you can certainly enjoy this dish on the same day you make it, like all braised meats, these ribs taste better made a day or two before serving. The ribs and sauce should be refrigerated in the same container so that the meat absorbs the flavors of the braising juices. After sc.r.a.ping any congealed fat from the surface of the sauce, reheat, covered, in a 350F oven for 20 to 30 minutes.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

8 beef short ribs (6 ounces each) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour for dusting 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 3 ounces smoked bacon, cut into 1x-inch lardons 2 medium carrots, peeled and chopped into -inch dice 1 medium onion, chopped into -inch dice 16 garlic cloves, smashed 1 tablespoon tomato paste 2 cups dry red wine cup brandy 2 bay leaves 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves 1 teaspoon celery seeds 2 cinnamon sticks 5 whole cloves 2 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth cup Kalamata olives, pitted 18 dried apricot halves 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1. Preheat the oven to 325F. Preheat the oven to 325F.

2. Season the ribs with salt and pepper. Dust with the flour. Heat the oil in a large braising pan or ovenproof ca.s.serole over medium-high heat. Add the bacon and cook until most of the fat is rendered, then remove and set aside. Season the ribs with salt and pepper. Dust with the flour. Heat the oil in a large braising pan or ovenproof ca.s.serole over medium-high heat. Add the bacon and cook until most of the fat is rendered, then remove and set aside.

3. Add as many ribs as can fit in a single layer to the pan. You will need to cook them in batches. Sear the ribs on both sides until well browned, then remove from the pan and set aside. Repeat with the remaining ribs. Discard all but 2 tablespoons of the fat from the pan. Add as many ribs as can fit in a single layer to the pan. You will need to cook them in batches. Sear the ribs on both sides until well browned, then remove from the pan and set aside. Repeat with the remaining ribs. Discard all but 2 tablespoons of the fat from the pan.

4. Lower the heat to medium, add the carrots and onions, season with salt and pepper, and saute until the vegetables begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook for 4 more minutes. Add the red wine and brandy and reduce by half, about 6 minutes. Lower the heat to medium, add the carrots and onions, season with salt and pepper, and saute until the vegetables begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook for 4 more minutes. Add the red wine and brandy and reduce by half, about 6 minutes.

5. Return the ribs and bacon to the pot. Add the remaining ingredients except the apricots and parsley and bring to a boil. The liquid should come one-third of the way up the ribs-if not, add some water. As soon as the liquid comes to a boil, turn off the heat and cover the ribs tightly with foil, pressing the foil down into the pan, then place a lid on the pan. Return the ribs and bacon to the pot. Add the remaining ingredients except the apricots and parsley and bring to a boil. The liquid should come one-third of the way up the ribs-if not, add some water. As soon as the liquid comes to a boil, turn off the heat and cover the ribs tightly with foil, pressing the foil down into the pan, then place a lid on the pan.

6. Braise the ribs in the oven for 2 hours, turning them every 30 minutes so they cook evenly. Add water as necessary to keep the braising juice one-third of the way up the ribs. Braise the ribs in the oven for 2 hours, turning them every 30 minutes so they cook evenly. Add water as necessary to keep the braising juice one-third of the way up the ribs.

7. After 2 hours, add the apricots and cook for an additional 30 minutes. The meat should be almost falling off the bones. Transfer the short ribs to a large platter. Spoon the vegetables, olives, and apricots over them. Keep warm. After 2 hours, add the apricots and cook for an additional 30 minutes. The meat should be almost falling off the bones. Transfer the short ribs to a large platter. Spoon the vegetables, olives, and apricots over them. Keep warm.

8. Strain the braising juices into a clear gla.s.s container and siphon or skim off the fat. The braising juices may already be the consistency of a sauce. If not, return them to the pan and boil for a few minutes to thicken. If you prefer an absolutely smooth sauce, strain out any remaining pieces of vegetable. Taste, season with salt and pepper, and add the parsley. Pour the sauce over the ribs and serve immediately. Strain the braising juices into a clear gla.s.s container and siphon or skim off the fat. The braising juices may already be the consistency of a sauce. If not, return them to the pan and boil for a few minutes to thicken. If you prefer an absolutely smooth sauce, strain out any remaining pieces of vegetable. Taste, season with salt and pepper, and add the parsley. Pour the sauce over the ribs and serve immediately.

Pot Roast of Beef with Green Peppers and Pancetta Pot roast ought to be one of the great glories of anyone's home repertoire-once you know the rules, it's actually quite easy to produce a fork-tender masterpiece. Unfortunately, if you don't know the rules, it's easy to go wrong with either the texture or flavor. Pot roasts cook by braising. Long, slow cooking breaks down muscle fibers, helping to tenderize the meat, but if there isn't enough fat in the muscle fibers to keep the meat moist during the cooking, then the end result will be dry. The greater the marbling of fat in the meat, the more tender and juicy the pot roast will be. Use chuck or rump cuts, not the bottom round (a boneless muscle from the back leg) that is often promoted as an ideal pot roast cut. To my taste, there just isn't enough fat to make bottom round work. Chuck and rump cuts, by contrast, are richly marbled and produce beefy, juicy pot roasts. one of the great glories of anyone's home repertoire-once you know the rules, it's actually quite easy to produce a fork-tender masterpiece. Unfortunately, if you don't know the rules, it's easy to go wrong with either the texture or flavor. Pot roasts cook by braising. Long, slow cooking breaks down muscle fibers, helping to tenderize the meat, but if there isn't enough fat in the muscle fibers to keep the meat moist during the cooking, then the end result will be dry. The greater the marbling of fat in the meat, the more tender and juicy the pot roast will be. Use chuck or rump cuts, not the bottom round (a boneless muscle from the back leg) that is often promoted as an ideal pot roast cut. To my taste, there just isn't enough fat to make bottom round work. Chuck and rump cuts, by contrast, are richly marbled and produce beefy, juicy pot roasts.

The second issue is flavor. Slow cooking gives the meat the opportunity to absorb the flavors of other ingredients. The more intense the flavors, the stronger their influence. If the ingredients are too mild, the final taste will be bland. This recipe includes red wine vinegar, a potent enhancement to the powerful influence of pancetta, anchovies, and green peppers. When I first made this dish, the flavor reminded me so much of the American South that I served it with grits instead of potatoes, but polenta would be just as good.

MAKES 6 TO 8 ENTReE SERVINGS.

1 boneless beef chuck or rump roast (about 4 pounds) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons vegetable oil pound pancetta, cut into -inch dice 2 medium onions, chopped into -inch dice 8 garlic cloves, minced 2 tablespoons tomato paste 8 anchovies, rinsed and coa.r.s.ely chopped cup red wine vinegar 4 bay leaves 4 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth, or as needed 2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage 4 green peppers, roasted (see page 99), peeled, stemmed, seeded, and cut into -inch-wide strips 2 cups canned tomatoes, drained and coa.r.s.ely chopped 1. Season the meat all over with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large braising pan or a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the pancetta and cook until the fat is partially rendered, then remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. Season the meat all over with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large braising pan or a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the pancetta and cook until the fat is partially rendered, then remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.

2. Sear the meat all over in the fat until well browned, then remove from the pan and set aside. Sear the meat all over in the fat until well browned, then remove from the pan and set aside.

3. Lower the heat to medium. Add the onions, season with salt and pepper, and saute until they begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook, stirring occasionally, for 4 more minutes. Add the anchovies and vinegar. Lower the heat to medium. Add the onions, season with salt and pepper, and saute until they begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook, stirring occasionally, for 4 more minutes. Add the anchovies and vinegar.

4. Return the meat and pancetta to the pan, then add the bay leaves and enough chicken stock to come one-quarter of the way up the roast. As soon as the liquid comes to a boil, lower the heat to a simmer and cover the roast with foil, pressing the foil down into the pan, then place a lid on the pan. Return the meat and pancetta to the pan, then add the bay leaves and enough chicken stock to come one-quarter of the way up the roast. As soon as the liquid comes to a boil, lower the heat to a simmer and cover the roast with foil, pressing the foil down into the pan, then place a lid on the pan.

5. Braise the meat for 3 hours, turning the meat every 30 minutes or so, and adding more stock as needed to keep the juices one-quarter of the way up the meat. Adjust the heat if the liquids are at more than a simmer. The meat should be very tender, offering little resistance when pierced with a fork. Braise the meat for 3 hours, turning the meat every 30 minutes or so, and adding more stock as needed to keep the juices one-quarter of the way up the meat. Adjust the heat if the liquids are at more than a simmer. The meat should be very tender, offering little resistance when pierced with a fork.

6. Add the sage, peppers, and tomatoes and cook for an additional 30 minutes. Transfer the meat to a large platter. Add the sage, peppers, and tomatoes and cook for an additional 30 minutes. Transfer the meat to a large platter.

7. Skim any fat off the juices. Remove the bay leaves. If the braising liquid seems too thin, increase the heat to medium and cook until the liquid thickens. Skim any fat off the juices. Remove the bay leaves. If the braising liquid seems too thin, increase the heat to medium and cook until the liquid thickens.

8. Thinly slice the roast and arrange overlapping slices on the platter. Spoon the braising liquid and vegetables over the slices and serve. Thinly slice the roast and arrange overlapping slices on the platter. Spoon the braising liquid and vegetables over the slices and serve.

Braised Oxtails with White Beans Imagine a pot roast so juicy and tender it falls apart as soon as you wave your fork over it-you're really thinking about oxtails, you just don't know it. If there were a Braising Hall of Fame, the oxtails display would be front and center. Their secret advantage is a huge reservoir of collagen that melts during braising. The collagen thickens the braising liquid into a sensuously velvety sauce and the meat, which has its own helpfully high fat content, takes on the remarkably tender richness that only happens in braising. juicy and tender it falls apart as soon as you wave your fork over it-you're really thinking about oxtails, you just don't know it. If there were a Braising Hall of Fame, the oxtails display would be front and center. Their secret advantage is a huge reservoir of collagen that melts during braising. The collagen thickens the braising liquid into a sensuously velvety sauce and the meat, which has its own helpfully high fat content, takes on the remarkably tender richness that only happens in braising.

You can certainly enjoy this the day you make it, but to my palate, braises taste better if made a day or two before serving, allowing their flavors to blend. Refrigerate everything in the same container, then reheat after sc.r.a.ping any congealed fat off the surface of the sauce.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

1 cup navy beans, picked over for stones and broken beans and rinsed 4 pounds oxtails (from the thick end of the tail), cut into 3-inch sections, trimmed of excess fat Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper cup unbleached all-purpose flour for dusting 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 3 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch lengths 3 medium onions, sliced 1 inch thick 1 celery stalk, peeled and cut into -inch pieces 3 red peppers, stemmed, seeded, and chopped into 1-inch pieces 1 garlic clove, chopped 1 cups dry red wine cup red wine vinegar 2 cups canned tomatoes, drained Grated zest of 1 lemon 2 bay leaves 1 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes 2 teaspoons coriander seeds 2 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1. Either soak the beans overnight or put them in a pot, cover with 1 inch of water, and bring to a boil. Boil for 1 minute. Turn off the heat and let sit for 1 hour. Drain. Either soak the beans overnight or put them in a pot, cover with 1 inch of water, and bring to a boil. Boil for 1 minute. Turn off the heat and let sit for 1 hour. Drain.

2. Preheat the oven to 325F. Preheat the oven to 325F.

3. Season the oxtails with salt and pepper. Dust with the flour. Heat the oil in a large braising pan or ovenproof ca.s.serole over medium-high heat. Sear the oxtails in batches, cooking no more than will fit in a single layer in the pan at a time, until browned all over. Remove from the pan and set them aside. Season the oxtails with salt and pepper. Dust with the flour. Heat the oil in a large braising pan or ovenproof ca.s.serole over medium-high heat. Sear the oxtails in batches, cooking no more than will fit in a single layer in the pan at a time, until browned all over. Remove from the pan and set them aside.

4. Lower the heat to medium. Add the carrots, onions, celery, and peppers to the pan and saute until they begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and continue cooking until it becomes aromatic, a couple of minutes. Add the red wine and vinegar and cook until reduced by half, 8 to 10 minutes. Lower the heat to medium. Add the carrots, onions, celery, and peppers to the pan and saute until they begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and continue cooking until it becomes aromatic, a couple of minutes. Add the red wine and vinegar and cook until reduced by half, 8 to 10 minutes.

5. Return the oxtails to the pan and add the remaining ingredients, except the parsley; add the drained beans. Cover the oxtails tightly with a piece of aluminum foil, pressing it down into the pan, then cover with a lid. Put the pan in the oven to braise. Return the oxtails to the pan and add the remaining ingredients, except the parsley; add the drained beans. Cover the oxtails tightly with a piece of aluminum foil, pressing it down into the pan, then cover with a lid. Put the pan in the oven to braise.

6. After 45 minutes, remove the pan from the oven and give everything a quick stir, so the beans will cook evenly. Check to make sure the liquid hasn't dropped below halfway up the bones; if necessary, add more liquid. Replace the foil and lid and return the pan to the oven. Braise the oxtails for approximately After 45 minutes, remove the pan from the oven and give everything a quick stir, so the beans will cook evenly. Check to make sure the liquid hasn't dropped below halfway up the bones; if necessary, add more liquid. Replace the foil and lid and return the pan to the oven. Braise the oxtails for approximately 3 3 more hours, stirring and checking the level of the liquid every 30 minutes. The dish is done when the meat is beginning to fall off the bone and the beans are tender. Taste and adjust the seasonings. (If giving the dish a day or two of rest before serving, remove the oxtails from the heat and allow them to cool, then transfer the entire dish to a fresh container for refrigerating. The next day, after skimming off the fat, reheat on top of the stove; if you prefer the dish without bones, remove them as described below before reheating. Proceed as directed.) more hours, stirring and checking the level of the liquid every 30 minutes. The dish is done when the meat is beginning to fall off the bone and the beans are tender. Taste and adjust the seasonings. (If giving the dish a day or two of rest before serving, remove the oxtails from the heat and allow them to cool, then transfer the entire dish to a fresh container for refrigerating. The next day, after skimming off the fat, reheat on top of the stove; if you prefer the dish without bones, remove them as described below before reheating. Proceed as directed.) 7. Skim the fat off the surface of the braising liquid. If you prefer to serve the dish without bones (I leave the bones on board), remove the oxtails from the pan, trim off the meat, and return it to the pan. Stir everything together, sprinkle with the parsley, and serve from the pan at the table. Skim the fat off the surface of the braising liquid. If you prefer to serve the dish without bones (I leave the bones on board), remove the oxtails from the pan, trim off the meat, and return it to the pan. Stir everything together, sprinkle with the parsley, and serve from the pan at the table.

Tuscan-Style Sirloin with Parmesan, Lemon, and Truffle Oil Bistecca alla fiorentina is a staggeringly simply preparation: top-quality steak dressed with a little olive oil, salt, and pepper, grilled quite rare, and garnished with lemon. Traditionally prepared with a T-bone steak, weighing in at a little over a pound, this is a dish for devoted carnivores. I put my version of this dish on the menu when we opened Rialto, using sirloin instead of T-bone and serving it atop a salad of endive, arugula, mushrooms, shavings of Parmesan, and a drizzle of truffle oil. Eight years later, I can't take it off the menu-it is by far our biggest seller. All you need is a sangiovese wine from Tuscany. is a staggeringly simply preparation: top-quality steak dressed with a little olive oil, salt, and pepper, grilled quite rare, and garnished with lemon. Traditionally prepared with a T-bone steak, weighing in at a little over a pound, this is a dish for devoted carnivores. I put my version of this dish on the menu when we opened Rialto, using sirloin instead of T-bone and serving it atop a salad of endive, arugula, mushrooms, shavings of Parmesan, and a drizzle of truffle oil. Eight years later, I can't take it off the menu-it is by far our biggest seller. All you need is a sangiovese wine from Tuscany.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

4 sirloin steaks (10 to 12 ounces each), preferably prime Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Vegetable oil for brushing the steaks 1 head endive, separated into leaves (about 12 leaves) 4 cups lightly packed arugula leaves, washed and dried 1 large portabella mushroom cap (about 5 inches across), cleaned and sliced paper-thin 1 lemon, halved 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 ounces Parmesan shavings 4 teaspoons truffle oil (optional) 1. Prepare a grill with hot and medium cooking areas (see page 265 if you're unfamiliar with how to do this). Prepare a grill with hot and medium cooking areas (see page 265 if you're unfamiliar with how to do this).

2. Sprinkle the steaks liberally on both sides with salt and pepper. Brush on each side with vegetable oil. Sprinkle the steaks liberally on both sides with salt and pepper. Brush on each side with vegetable oil.

3. Set the steaks on the hottest part of the grill. Sear the steaks for 2 minutes, then flip and sear on the other side for 2 minutes. After the initial searing, move the steaks to the medium part of the grill and continue cooking until done, flipping them regularly so they cook evenly. When their temperature registers between 5 and 10 degrees below the desired state of doneness pull them off the grill: Figure on 120F for rare; 126F for medium-rare; or 134F for medium. If you like your steaks rare, begin checking their internal temperature as soon as the initial searing finishes. It's unlikely they'll be done, but it's always better to be safe than sorry. Steaks and grills are variable, so judge when a steak is done by its look and feel, or internal temperature as indicated by an instant-read digital thermometer, not by the number of minutes it has cooked. (As a Set the steaks on the hottest part of the grill. Sear the steaks for 2 minutes, then flip and sear on the other side for 2 minutes. After the initial searing, move the steaks to the medium part of the grill and continue cooking until done, flipping them regularly so they cook evenly. When their temperature registers between 5 and 10 degrees below the desired state of doneness pull them off the grill: Figure on 120F for rare; 126F for medium-rare; or 134F for medium. If you like your steaks rare, begin checking their internal temperature as soon as the initial searing finishes. It's unlikely they'll be done, but it's always better to be safe than sorry. Steaks and grills are variable, so judge when a steak is done by its look and feel, or internal temperature as indicated by an instant-read digital thermometer, not by the number of minutes it has cooked. (As a very general very general guideline, for 1-inch-thick steaks cooked on a charcoal grill, rare steaks should be pulled 2 to 4 minutes after the initial searing; medium-rare steaks will need another 5 to 7 minutes, medium steaks, 8 to 9 minutes. Steaks cooked on a gas grill will take slightly longer.) guideline, for 1-inch-thick steaks cooked on a charcoal grill, rare steaks should be pulled 2 to 4 minutes after the initial searing; medium-rare steaks will need another 5 to 7 minutes, medium steaks, 8 to 9 minutes. Steaks cooked on a gas grill will take slightly longer.) 4. Put the steaks on a warm platter, cover loosely with foil, and let them rest for 5 minutes. Put the steaks on a warm platter, cover loosely with foil, and let them rest for 5 minutes.

5. Meanwhile, put the endive, arugula, and mushroom slices into a large bowl. Squeeze the juice of one lemon half over the salad. Add the olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss well. Taste, then adjust the seasonings if necessary. Meanwhile, put the endive, arugula, and mushroom slices into a large bowl. Squeeze the juice of one lemon half over the salad. Add the olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss well. Taste, then adjust the seasonings if necessary.

6. Cut the second lemon half into 4 wedges. Distribute the salad among four plates. Set a steak on top of each salad, sprinkle with the shaved Parmesan, drizzle with the truffle oil, if using, and garnish each with a lemon wedge. Serve immediately. Cut the second lemon half into 4 wedges. Distribute the salad among four plates. Set a steak on top of each salad, sprinkle with the shaved Parmesan, drizzle with the truffle oil, if using, and garnish each with a lemon wedge. Serve immediately.

GRILL NOTESThin cuts of meat, poultry, or fish can cook on a hot grill, but the outside of thicker pieces tends to incinerate before the interior is properly cooked. The easiest method of dealing with the problem is to use a grill with two temperature regions-one hot and one medium. A grill is hot when you can hold your hand near the grill surface for no longer than a count of 2 before having to pull it away; it is medium when you can keep your hand near the grilling surface for 4 seconds before you have to move it. After searing a thick steak or piece of chicken over the hot region of the grill, shift it to the cooler area, where it can finish cooking without burning on the outside.For a gas grill, preheat the grill on high with the cover closed for 15 minutes so everything is nice and hot when you start to cook. After the grill has had time to heat, leave the burners on one part of the grill on high, and lower the heat on the others until you can hold your hand near the grilling surface for 4 seconds.For a charcoal grill, arrange the hot coals in two zones. The area below what will be the hot part of the grill should be several times as thick as the layer below the medium part of the grill. After arranging the coals but before putting the grate in place, hold your hand over the two regions to make sure you've distributed the coals properly. Replace the grate and allow it to heat for 10 minutes before beginning to cook.

Also bear in mind:[image]A clean grill grate minimizes sticking.[image] Most home gas grills do not get as hot on "high" as grills using charcoal. Adjust cooking times accordingly. Learn to judge doneness by look and feel or by using an instant-read digital thermometer, not by relying on cooking times. Most home gas grills do not get as hot on "high" as grills using charcoal. Adjust cooking times accordingly. Learn to judge doneness by look and feel or by using an instant-read digital thermometer, not by relying on cooking times.[image] Grilling with the cover in place shortens cooking time. Refer to your grill's instructions regarding the vents in your grill's cover. Grilling with the cover in place shortens cooking time. Refer to your grill's instructions regarding the vents in your grill's cover.[image]Use charwood, if possible, not charcoal, for covered grilling. Most popular brands of charcoal briquettes are compressed sawdust impregnated with flammable chemicals and molded into briquettes. For open grilling, briquettes can be acceptable, but I often detect a chemical element in the flavor of food cooked with briquettes in a covered grill. Charwood, by contrast, is composed of solid chunks of genuine charcoal, that is, whole pieces of wood heated in a low-oxygen environment until they carbonize. Charwood burns hotter (but shorter) than commercial briquettes, without any chemical aroma.[image] Keep a small spray bottle handy when grilling meats to extinguish fat fires. Alternatively, lower the heat or use the grill cover to help minimize flaming. Keep a small spray bottle handy when grilling meats to extinguish fat fires. Alternatively, lower the heat or use the grill cover to help minimize flaming.

Braised Veal Shanks with Flageolets and Preserved Lemon February is the absolute nadir of the culinary year in New England. Spring has yet to arrive, and root vegetables have grown too familiar. These veal shanks are my personal antidote to the late-winter blahs. As a genre, braised veal shanks can be fairly heavy going-rich beyond enduring. This is a lighter treatment. None of the ingredients is actually from spring, but the bright fresh flavors of vermouth, pale green flageolets, tarragon, and tangy preserved lemon seem to suggest that lighter days are just around the corner. And there's always the b.u.t.tery marrow for the die-hard lover of rich culinary treasures. culinary year in New England. Spring has yet to arrive, and root vegetables have grown too familiar. These veal shanks are my personal antidote to the late-winter blahs. As a genre, braised veal shanks can be fairly heavy going-rich beyond enduring. This is a lighter treatment. None of the ingredients is actually from spring, but the bright fresh flavors of vermouth, pale green flageolets, tarragon, and tangy preserved lemon seem to suggest that lighter days are just around the corner. And there's always the b.u.t.tery marrow for the die-hard lover of rich culinary treasures.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

pound dried flageolet beans (if flageolets are unavailable, use Great Northern white beans), picked over for stones or broken beans and rinsed pound pearl onions 2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon sugar 3 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth 4 large meaty veal shanks, about 2 inches thick (about 3 pounds total) 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 large carrot, peeled and chopped into -inch dice 1 celery stalk, peeled and chopped into -inch dice 1 medium onion, chopped into -inch dice 6 garlic cloves, minced 3 bay leaves 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme 1 cup dry vermouth 5 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon 1 cup water 4 plum tomatoes, seeded (see page 55) and coa.r.s.ely chopped cup chopped fresh curly parsley Preserved Lemon (page 268; also available in stores that sell Middle Eastern food), pulp and pith removed, the skin cut into thin strips (if preserved lemon is unavailable, subst.i.tute the zest of 1 lemon removed with peeler and cut into thin strips) 1. Soak the flageolets overnight, or put them in a pot, add water to cover by 1 inch, and bring to a boil. Turn off the heat and let sit for 1 hour. Drain. Soak the flageolets overnight, or put them in a pot, add water to cover by 1 inch, and bring to a boil. Turn off the heat and let sit for 1 hour. Drain.

2. While the flageolets are soaking, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Blanch the pearl onions in the boiling water for 10 seconds, then plunge them into the ice water. Drain, then remove their skins with a sharp paring knife. While the flageolets are soaking, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Blanch the pearl onions in the boiling water for 10 seconds, then plunge them into the ice water. Drain, then remove their skins with a sharp paring knife.

3. Heat the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the pearl onions and season with salt and pepper. Cook until they start to brown, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle them with the sugar. As soon as the sugar melts (watch closely so it doesn't burn), add Heat the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the pearl onions and season with salt and pepper. Cook until they start to brown, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle them with the sugar. As soon as the sugar melts (watch closely so it doesn't burn), add cup of the chicken stock and reduce the heat to low. Cook for 10 minutes, then add another cup of the chicken stock and reduce the heat to low. Cook for 10 minutes, then add another cup chicken stock and continue cooking until the onions are tender and golden and the stock has reduced to a glaze, 10 to 15 minutes. Set aside. cup chicken stock and continue cooking until the onions are tender and golden and the stock has reduced to a glaze, 10 to 15 minutes. Set aside.

4. Preheat the oven to 325F. Preheat the oven to 325F.

5. Season the veal shanks all over with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a large braising pan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Sear the shanks on both sides until browned, about 5 to 7 minutes per side. Transfer the shanks to a platter. Season the veal shanks all over with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a large braising pan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Sear the shanks on both sides until browned, about 5 to 7 minutes per side. Transfer the shanks to a platter.