4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 tablespoons paprika 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon 2 teaspoons ground ginger 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 2 teaspoons ground c.u.min 2 teaspoons ground coriander Pinch of saffron, soaked in cup freshly squeezed lemon juice cup plus 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 4 Rock Cornish game hens (about 1 pound each) Kosher salt 2 lemons, washed well and cut into quarters 2 tablespoons dark raisins 2 large white onions (about 1 1 pounds total), sliced 1 inch thick pounds total), sliced 1 inch thick 1 pound ripe plum tomatoes, each cut into 4 wedges, then halved crosswise 2 cups cooked chickpeas (see page 230), if using canned chickpeas, rinse well cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley DO AHEAD: Make the spice paste and rub it into the hens 4 hours ahead of time; cover the hens loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to cook. Cook the chickpeas. Make the spice paste and rub it into the hens 4 hours ahead of time; cover the hens loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to cook. Cook the chickpeas.

1. Preheat the oven to 375F. Preheat the oven to 375F.

2. Mix the garlic, paprika, cinnamon, ginger, pepper, c.u.min, coriander, saffron with its lemon juice, and cup of the vegetable oil in a large bowl to make a spice paste. Toss the hens in the bowl with the spice paste and rub them until they're evenly coated. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Marinate for at least 4 hours and up to 24 hours. Mix the garlic, paprika, cinnamon, ginger, pepper, c.u.min, coriander, saffron with its lemon juice, and cup of the vegetable oil in a large bowl to make a spice paste. Toss the hens in the bowl with the spice paste and rub them until they're evenly coated. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Marinate for at least 4 hours and up to 24 hours.

3. Remove the hens from the refrigerator; do not sc.r.a.pe off the marinade. Sprinkle the hens liberally inside and out with salt. Put a lemon quarter and one-quarter of the raisins in the cavity of each bird. Put the onions in the bottom of a roasting pan, season with salt and pepper, and toss with the remaining 2 tablespoons vegetable oil. Put two V-racks (or arrange two regular racks into a V) over the onions, and place 2 hens breast side down on each rack. Remove the hens from the refrigerator; do not sc.r.a.pe off the marinade. Sprinkle the hens liberally inside and out with salt. Put a lemon quarter and one-quarter of the raisins in the cavity of each bird. Put the onions in the bottom of a roasting pan, season with salt and pepper, and toss with the remaining 2 tablespoons vegetable oil. Put two V-racks (or arrange two regular racks into a V) over the onions, and place 2 hens breast side down on each rack.

4. Roast for 30 minutes, then turn the birds breast side up, give the onions a stir, and roast for an additional 15 minutes. Add the tomatoes and chickpeas to the pan and roast for an additional 15 minutes, or until the skin has browned and the hens are cooked through. Roast for 30 minutes, then turn the birds breast side up, give the onions a stir, and roast for an additional 15 minutes. Add the tomatoes and chickpeas to the pan and roast for an additional 15 minutes, or until the skin has browned and the hens are cooked through.

The juices should run clear from the thickest part of the thigh when poked with a skewer; an instant-read digital thermometer inserted at the same spot should read 165F. Transfer the hens to a platter.

5. Add the chopped parsley to the vegetable mixture in the roasting pan, stir, and taste for seasonings. Spoon the mixture around the platter. Garnish with the remaining lemon quarters. Serve immediately. Add the chopped parsley to the vegetable mixture in the roasting pan, stir, and taste for seasonings. Spoon the mixture around the platter. Garnish with the remaining lemon quarters. Serve immediately.

How to Cook Chickpeas One cup of dried chickpeas will make about 2 will make about 2 cups cooked. Dried chickpeas are so hard they need to be treated more like beans than peas, which means they need to soak before cooking. You can soak them using either the overnight or the quick-soak method. Whichever method you use, pick through them first to remove any stones or debris. cups cooked. Dried chickpeas are so hard they need to be treated more like beans than peas, which means they need to soak before cooking. You can soak them using either the overnight or the quick-soak method. Whichever method you use, pick through them first to remove any stones or debris.

MAKES 2 TO 3 CUPS.

OVERNIGHT METHOD: Soak the chickpeas in 4 times their volume of cold water (e.g., cover 1 cup chickpeas with 4 cups water). Here "overnight" actually means "for at least 4 hours, " which could mean all morning or all afternoon, or whatever your schedule dictates. The point is, they need to soak for at least 4 hours, and a few hours longer won't hurt them. Skim off any chickpeas that float to the surface. Drain and rinse the soaked chickpeas thoroughly and examine them again to be sure no small stones have escaped your notice. Soak the chickpeas in 4 times their volume of cold water (e.g., cover 1 cup chickpeas with 4 cups water). Here "overnight" actually means "for at least 4 hours, " which could mean all morning or all afternoon, or whatever your schedule dictates. The point is, they need to soak for at least 4 hours, and a few hours longer won't hurt them. Skim off any chickpeas that float to the surface. Drain and rinse the soaked chickpeas thoroughly and examine them again to be sure no small stones have escaped your notice.

QUICK-SOAK METHOD: Place the chickpeas in a large pot with 4 times their volume in water. Bring to a boil for a full minute, then turn off the heat, cover, and let soak for an hour. Drain and rinse thoroughly, and examine again for any remaining stones. Place the chickpeas in a large pot with 4 times their volume in water. Bring to a boil for a full minute, then turn off the heat, cover, and let soak for an hour. Drain and rinse thoroughly, and examine again for any remaining stones.

1 cup dried chickpeas, soaked, drained, and rinsed 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil small onion, cut into quarters small celery stalk 2 bay leaves Kosher salt 1. Put the soaked chickpeas in a medium saucepan with 8 cups cold water. Boil for 10 minutes, then lower the heat to a simmer. Skim off any sc.u.m.

2. Add the olive oil, onion, celery, and bay leaves. Simmer, partly covered, until the chickpeas are tender, 1 hours or more. Depending on their quality and age, chickpeas vary considerably in cooking time.

3. After the chickpeas are tender, add the salt. (If you add the salt before they're tender their skins will toughen.) Simmer for 10 minutes more so they can absorb the salt. Drain. Refrigerate, covered, until ready to use.

Peppered Chicken Cooked Under a Brick with Hot-and-Spicy Ginger Sauce When I get a craving for chicken with crispy skin, I go straight to this variation on the cla.s.sic for chicken with crispy skin, I go straight to this variation on the cla.s.sic pollo ala diavolo. pollo ala diavolo. Crackling skin and copious amounts of red pepper-that's enough for me. Weighting b.u.t.terflied chickens with bricks or other heavy objects as they cook keeps the birds flat, pressing their skin against the cooking surface so they crisp evenly. I rely on bricks wrapped in foil, but you can use just about anything as long as it's clean and heatproof (antique pressing irons would be ideal). Leftovers are perfect picnic fare; the skin doesn't become soggy after it cools, as cold fried chicken skin does. Crackling skin and copious amounts of red pepper-that's enough for me. Weighting b.u.t.terflied chickens with bricks or other heavy objects as they cook keeps the birds flat, pressing their skin against the cooking surface so they crisp evenly. I rely on bricks wrapped in foil, but you can use just about anything as long as it's clean and heatproof (antique pressing irons would be ideal). Leftovers are perfect picnic fare; the skin doesn't become soggy after it cools, as cold fried chicken skin does.

Look no further than this recipe for a reason to purchase a few extra inexpensive cast-iron skillets (each flattened bird cooks in its own frying pan). I've tried playing with the technique, searing the birds briefly and then letting them finish cooking in the oven, but they just don't taste the same and the skin isn't as crisp.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

CHICKEN.

4 free-range baby (poussin) chickens or Rock Cornish game hens (about 1 pound each) 1 tablespoon hot red pepper flakes 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh ginger 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 tablespoon fennel seeds cup plus 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus more if needed Kosher salt SAUCE.

1 teaspoon sherry vinegar Kosher salt 2 shallots, thinly sliced cup dry sherry 2 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or 4 cups highquality canned low-sodium chicken broth, reduced to 2 cups (see page 32) 3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar Kosher salt DO AHEAD: Prepare the chickens and marinate overnight (see Step 1). Prepare the chickens and marinate overnight (see Step 1).

1. b.u.t.terfly the chicken (see page 234), removing the backbone and wing tips, but leaving the breastbone. Sprinkle the chickens with the red pepper flakes, ginger, chopped garlic, and fennel seeds. Rub with the oil, cover, and marinate overnight in the refrigerator. b.u.t.terfly the chicken (see page 234), removing the backbone and wing tips, but leaving the breastbone. Sprinkle the chickens with the red pepper flakes, ginger, chopped garlic, and fennel seeds. Rub with the oil, cover, and marinate overnight in the refrigerator.

2. Season the chicken with salt. Heat four large frying pans each with 2 tablespoons vegetable oil over medium heat. Place the chickens skin side up in the pans, flatten each one with a weight, and cook halfway through, about 20 minutes. Flip the chickens, replace the weights, and cook until done, about another 20 minutes. The skin should be crispy and golden brown. Transfer the chickens to a cutting board (set one of the pans aside) and remove the breastbones. Transfer the chickens to a plate, skin side up. Season the chicken with salt. Heat four large frying pans each with 2 tablespoons vegetable oil over medium heat. Place the chickens skin side up in the pans, flatten each one with a weight, and cook halfway through, about 20 minutes. Flip the chickens, replace the weights, and cook until done, about another 20 minutes. The skin should be crispy and golden brown. Transfer the chickens to a cutting board (set one of the pans aside) and remove the breastbones. Transfer the chickens to a plate, skin side up.

3. Saute the ginger, garlic, and sliced shallots in the reserved pan over medium heat, adding an additional tablespoon of oil if necessary, until tender, about 5 minutes. Deglaze the pan with the sherry and cook at a simmer until it has reduced by three-quarters, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the stock and cook until it has reduced by two-thirds, about 30 minutes. Whisk in the b.u.t.ter and season with the vinegar and salt. Saute the ginger, garlic, and sliced shallots in the reserved pan over medium heat, adding an additional tablespoon of oil if necessary, until tender, about 5 minutes. Deglaze the pan with the sherry and cook at a simmer until it has reduced by three-quarters, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the stock and cook until it has reduced by two-thirds, about 30 minutes. Whisk in the b.u.t.ter and season with the vinegar and salt.

4. Make a pool of sauce on one side of each of four warm plates. Set the chicken atop the sauce so it rests half on, half off the sauce (you've worked hard for the crispy skin, so don't drown it in sauce). Serve immediately. Make a pool of sauce on one side of each of four warm plates. Set the chicken atop the sauce so it rests half on, half off the sauce (you've worked hard for the crispy skin, so don't drown it in sauce). Serve immediately.

Grilled Smoked Chicken with Poppy Seeds and Pancetta Poppy seeds may seem like an unusual ingredient in roast chicken, but their nuttiness and affinity for lemon are what started this recipe. It began life as an oven-roasted chicken, but I just couldn't figure out a way to get the smoky flavor as intense as I wanted it without setting off my fire alarm. Time for the outdoor grill. The result is an exquisitely flavored bird the color of pale mahogany, crusted with poppy seeds and a mixture of lemon, rosemary, fennel, and parsley bound together with honey. Slices of pancetta inserted beneath the skin prevent the breast from drying out before the legs are done. The lemon quarters inside the cavity become saturated with the chicken's juices as the bird roasts; squeeze them over the chicken just before serving. an unusual ingredient in roast chicken, but their nuttiness and affinity for lemon are what started this recipe. It began life as an oven-roasted chicken, but I just couldn't figure out a way to get the smoky flavor as intense as I wanted it without setting off my fire alarm. Time for the outdoor grill. The result is an exquisitely flavored bird the color of pale mahogany, crusted with poppy seeds and a mixture of lemon, rosemary, fennel, and parsley bound together with honey. Slices of pancetta inserted beneath the skin prevent the breast from drying out before the legs are done. The lemon quarters inside the cavity become saturated with the chicken's juices as the bird roasts; squeeze them over the chicken just before serving.

The times given for roasting the chicken are somewhat imprecise. My 324-pound bird took 2 hours in a covered gas grill, using medium indirect heat. (A medium heat is one where you can hold your hand near the cooking surface for a count of 4 before having to remove it.) Adjust your time according to the size of your bird and your ability to manage the heat in your grill. Judge the chicken's doneness by using an instant-read digital thermometer and the color of the thigh juices, not by time. Do not omit the wood chips-the smoke is an essential component of the bird's flavor.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

2 cups of wood chips, soaked in water for 30 minutes

One 3-to 4-pound chicken 4 thin slices pancetta Grated zest of 3 lemons (reserve the lemons) cup poppy seeds 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 teaspoons fennel seeds, crushed 2 tablespoons honey cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary 3 tablespoons vegetable oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1. Using a st.u.r.dy knife or cleaver, chop the wing tips off the chicken. Using your fingers, separate the skin from the b.r.e.a.s.t.s, forming a pocket over each breast. Slip 2 slices of pancetta into each pocket, then press the skin back down to hold the pancetta in place. Using a st.u.r.dy knife or cleaver, chop the wing tips off the chicken. Using your fingers, separate the skin from the b.r.e.a.s.t.s, forming a pocket over each breast. Slip 2 slices of pancetta into each pocket, then press the skin back down to hold the pancetta in place.

2. Drain the wood chips and put them into a small foil pan. Prepare a medium fire in a grill; allow the grill to heat with the top closed and the pan of chips directly over the flames or coals until the entire grate is hot and the chips are smoking well, at least 15 minutes. Then adjust the heat source so there is a s.p.a.ce in the center of the grate that is not directly above the coals or flames, large enough to hold the chicken with plenty of room to spare. Turn off the middle burner if using a gas grill, or push the coals to the sides of a charcoal grill. The chicken should cook by indirect heat-it should not grill. Only the pan of wood chips should be over direct heat. Drain the wood chips and put them into a small foil pan. Prepare a medium fire in a grill; allow the grill to heat with the top closed and the pan of chips directly over the flames or coals until the entire grate is hot and the chips are smoking well, at least 15 minutes. Then adjust the heat source so there is a s.p.a.ce in the center of the grate that is not directly above the coals or flames, large enough to hold the chicken with plenty of room to spare. Turn off the middle burner if using a gas grill, or push the coals to the sides of a charcoal grill. The chicken should cook by indirect heat-it should not grill. Only the pan of wood chips should be over direct heat.

3. Meanwhile, mix the lemon zest with the poppy seeds, garlic, fennel seeds, honey, parsley, rosemary, and oil to form a paste. Season the chicken inside and out with salt and pepper. Smear the paste evenly over the exterior of the chicken. Cut 2 of the zested lemons into quarters (save the remaining lemon for another use). Place as many of the lemon quarters inside the cavity as will fit comfortably (don't squish them). Tie the legs together with butcher's twine and truss the chicken so the cavity is closed. Meanwhile, mix the lemon zest with the poppy seeds, garlic, fennel seeds, honey, parsley, rosemary, and oil to form a paste. Season the chicken inside and out with salt and pepper. Smear the paste evenly over the exterior of the chicken. Cut 2 of the zested lemons into quarters (save the remaining lemon for another use). Place as many of the lemon quarters inside the cavity as will fit comfortably (don't squish them). Tie the legs together with butcher's twine and truss the chicken so the cavity is closed.

4. Place the chicken breast side up on the grill. Close the grill and roast for 1 to 2 hours. An instant-read digital thermometer should read 165F when inserted into the thickest part of the thigh. This will give you a moist juicy chicken. If you prefer chicken a little more well done, wait until the thermometer reads 170F. When the thigh is p.r.i.c.ked near where it joins the body, the juices should run clear. Remove and let the chicken rest for 10 minutes before carving. Place the chicken breast side up on the grill. Close the grill and roast for 1 to 2 hours. An instant-read digital thermometer should read 165F when inserted into the thickest part of the thigh. This will give you a moist juicy chicken. If you prefer chicken a little more well done, wait until the thermometer reads 170F. When the thigh is p.r.i.c.ked near where it joins the body, the juices should run clear. Remove and let the chicken rest for 10 minutes before carving.

5. Remove the lemon quarters from the cavity (I know-they're a mess) and set aside. Carve the chicken and arrange on a platter. Squeeze the lemon quarters over the chicken, or offer them on the side. Serve immediately. Remove the lemon quarters from the cavity (I know-they're a mess) and set aside. Carve the chicken and arrange on a platter. Squeeze the lemon quarters over the chicken, or offer them on the side. Serve immediately.

HOW TO b.u.t.tERFLY A CHICKENb.u.t.terflying a chicken opens the bird out of its natural football shape into a single flat layer (presumably resembling a b.u.t.terfly), making it easier to grill or saute the entire bird evenly. Theoretically you can b.u.t.terfly any poultry, but the technique is most conveniently applied to small fowl-chickens under 1 pounds, game hens, and quail. Larger birds become unwieldy when b.u.t.terflied and the increased time you have to spend cooking them on top of the stove can make the preparation a ch.o.r.e.Set the chicken breast side down. Using a st.u.r.dy knife, cleaver, or kitchen scissors, split the chicken lengthwise down one side of the backbone. (Do not split the breast.) Cut down the other side of the backbone. Remove the backbone and discard, or save it for stock. Clip off the wing tips (the last joint) and discard. Lay the flat side of a chef's knife or cleaver across the breastbone and apply pressure until you feel the breastbone break. if the chicken doesn't lie perfectly flat after the first break, advance the knife along the ridge of the breastbone and break it again. Keep doing this along the bone until the chicken lies flat. (Do not remove the breastbone.) Braised Chicken in Mustard with Garlic and Mascarpone Once in a while I taste a cla.s.sic treatment for meat or fish and immediately imagine applying the same approach to a completely different animal. A French recipe for rabbit in a luscious mustard cream was the springboard for this dish. Instead of the creme fraiche called for in the version with rabbit, I've used mascarpone. American creme fraiche is more acidic than the French product, and I wanted a softer, sweeter flavor for the chicken. This dish definitely falls into the category of braises that improve with a day of sitting, so make it a day ahead if you can. taste a cla.s.sic treatment for meat or fish and immediately imagine applying the same approach to a completely different animal. A French recipe for rabbit in a luscious mustard cream was the springboard for this dish. Instead of the creme fraiche called for in the version with rabbit, I've used mascarpone. American creme fraiche is more acidic than the French product, and I wanted a softer, sweeter flavor for the chicken. This dish definitely falls into the category of braises that improve with a day of sitting, so make it a day ahead if you can.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

MARINADE.

1 tablespoon vegetable oil 2 shallots, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, crushed cup Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme teaspoon cracked black pepper 2 bay leaves

4 chicken leg-thigh quarters 2 tablespoons vegetable oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 ounces sliced pancetta, cut into -inch pieces 12 garlic cloves, peeled 12 shallots, peeled cup white wine vinegar 1 teaspoon tomato paste 2 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or 4 cups highquality canned low-sodium chicken broth, reduced to 2 cups (see page 32) 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme teaspoon hot red pepper flakes pound DO AHEAD: Prepare everything through Step 5 (i.e., don't make the sauce or add the mascarpone) and refrigerate the chicken in the braising juices. Reheat everything on top of the stove the next day and make the sauce just before serving. Prepare everything through Step 5 (i.e., don't make the sauce or add the mascarpone) and refrigerate the chicken in the braising juices. Reheat everything on top of the stove the next day and make the sauce just before serving.

1. To make the marinade, heat the vegetable oil in a small saute pan over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Let cool. Transfer the shallots and garlic to a larger bowl. To make the marinade, heat the vegetable oil in a small saute pan over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Let cool. Transfer the shallots and garlic to a larger bowl.

2. Whisk the cooked shallots and garlic, Dijon mustard, thyme, cracked pepper, and bay leaves together in a large bowl. Add the chicken and toss it about so all of the surfaces come in contact with the marinade. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours (it can be left overnight, if that's more convenient), turning the chicken once or twice. Whisk the cooked shallots and garlic, Dijon mustard, thyme, cracked pepper, and bay leaves together in a large bowl. Add the chicken and toss it about so all of the surfaces come in contact with the marinade. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours (it can be left overnight, if that's more convenient), turning the chicken once or twice.

3. Heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Remove the chicken from the bowl, reserving the marinade, and season all over with salt and pepper. Sear the chicken on both sides until brown. Transfer to a plate. Add the pancetta to the pan and cook just until the fat starts to melt but the pancetta is not yet crispy, about a minute. Remove from the pan and set aside. Heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Remove the chicken from the bowl, reserving the marinade, and season all over with salt and pepper. Sear the chicken on both sides until brown. Transfer to a plate. Add the pancetta to the pan and cook just until the fat starts to melt but the pancetta is not yet crispy, about a minute. Remove from the pan and set aside.

4. Add the whole garlic cloves and shallots to the pan and season with salt and pepper. Saute until lightly browned. Pour off the fat. Add the vinegar to the pan. The vinegar will foam up and reduce almost instantly; sc.r.a.pe the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to dissolve any crispy bits. Continue stirring as the vinegar quickly reduces to a glaze, about 30 seconds. Add the tomato paste and cook 1 minute, then add the reserved marinade and the chicken stock. Bring to a boil. Add the whole garlic cloves and shallots to the pan and season with salt and pepper. Saute until lightly browned. Pour off the fat. Add the vinegar to the pan. The vinegar will foam up and reduce almost instantly; sc.r.a.pe the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to dissolve any crispy bits. Continue stirring as the vinegar quickly reduces to a glaze, about 30 seconds. Add the tomato paste and cook 1 minute, then add the reserved marinade and the chicken stock. Bring to a boil.

5. Return the chicken pieces to the pan. Stir in the pancetta, thyme, and red pepper flakes. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the chicken is tender, but not falling off the bone, 40 to 45 minutes. Turn the chicken every 10 minutes so the exposed side doesn't dry out. Return the chicken pieces to the pan. Stir in the pancetta, thyme, and red pepper flakes. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the chicken is tender, but not falling off the bone, 40 to 45 minutes. Turn the chicken every 10 minutes so the exposed side doesn't dry out.

6. Remove the chicken from the pan and keep warm. Cook the sauce, uncovered, until it thickens slightly, about 10 minutes. To finish the sauce, remove the pan from the heat and add the mascarpone, whisking until smooth. Remove the chicken from the pan and keep warm. Cook the sauce, uncovered, until it thickens slightly, about 10 minutes. To finish the sauce, remove the pan from the heat and add the mascarpone, whisking until smooth.

7. Place a chicken quarter on each of four warmed plates, top with the sauce, and serve immediately. Place a chicken quarter on each of four warmed plates, top with the sauce, and serve immediately.

Braised Chicken Thighs with Ancho Peppers and Andouille Sausage This recipe came about when I needed seasoned chicken to go into the paella at our second restaurant, Red Clay. Then the chicken thighs began showing up at the staff family meal more frequently, and in larger portions, than would suggest they were simply leftovers from the paella. When a dish becomes a staff favorite, it's worth trying to figure out the appeal. The paprika, sausages, and ancho peppers give the chicken a smoky peppery quality usually found with "hotter" dishes. Using skinless thighs allows the flavor of the spices to penetrate the chicken meat instead of remaining on the surface. With a little rice, this makes a comforting supper for cold nights. I can serve it to my four-year-old without fear of rejection. I needed seasoned chicken to go into the paella at our second restaurant, Red Clay. Then the chicken thighs began showing up at the staff family meal more frequently, and in larger portions, than would suggest they were simply leftovers from the paella. When a dish becomes a staff favorite, it's worth trying to figure out the appeal. The paprika, sausages, and ancho peppers give the chicken a smoky peppery quality usually found with "hotter" dishes. Using skinless thighs allows the flavor of the spices to penetrate the chicken meat instead of remaining on the surface. With a little rice, this makes a comforting supper for cold nights. I can serve it to my four-year-old without fear of rejection.

This dish improves with a day of sitting, so prepare it ahead if possible. Also, if fat is a concern, a day of refrigeration makes it easy to sc.r.a.pe off the layer of fat that rises to the top of the dish. If you're in a hurry, pour the sauce into a Pyrex measuring cup, put it in the freezer for an hour, and then sc.r.a.pe off the fat.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

cup paprika teaspoon cayenne pepper Kosher salt 1 pounds skinless chicken thighs cup vegetable oil 2 large white onions (about 1 pound total), cut into 1-inch dice 6 garlic cloves, smashed 2 ancho peppers, stemmed, seeded, and cut into -inch-wide strips 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1 cup canned crushed tomatoes 1 cup Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth pound andouille sausage, cut into -inch slices Freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, plus 6 sprigs for garnish 1. Mix the paprika and cayenne pepper in a large bowl. Sprinkle the thighs all over with salt. Add the thighs to the bowl and toss until evenly coated with the pepper mixture. Mix the paprika and cayenne pepper in a large bowl. Sprinkle the thighs all over with salt. Add the thighs to the bowl and toss until evenly coated with the pepper mixture.

2. Heat the oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the thighs and sear for 5 to 7 minutes. Your aim is to get a good sear on the outside of the thighs, not cook them through. Turn the thighs over and sear the other side for 2 minutes. Remove the chicken from the pan and keep warm. Heat the oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the thighs and sear for 5 to 7 minutes. Your aim is to get a good sear on the outside of the thighs, not cook them through. Turn the thighs over and sear the other side for 2 minutes. Remove the chicken from the pan and keep warm.

3. Add the onions, garlic, and ancho peppers to the pan and cook until they begin to brown, about 8 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and chicken stock and reduce the liquid by a third, about 7 minutes. Add the onions, garlic, and ancho peppers to the pan and cook until they begin to brown, about 8 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and chicken stock and reduce the liquid by a third, about 7 minutes.

4. Return the chicken to the pan, add the sausage, cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook until the chicken is almost falling off the bone, about 1 hour. Adjust the heat if the braising juices are boiling. If the dish cooks too fast, the chicken will dry out. Return the chicken to the pan, add the sausage, cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook until the chicken is almost falling off the bone, about 1 hour. Adjust the heat if the braising juices are boiling. If the dish cooks too fast, the chicken will dry out.

5. When the chicken is done, the pan juices should be thick enough to serve as a sauce. If they're too thin, transfer the chicken to a platter, increase the heat to medium-high, and reduce the juices to the desired consistency. Taste the sauce and add salt and pepper if necessary. Stir in the chopped cilantro. When the chicken is done, the pan juices should be thick enough to serve as a sauce. If they're too thin, transfer the chicken to a platter, increase the heat to medium-high, and reduce the juices to the desired consistency. Taste the sauce and add salt and pepper if necessary. Stir in the chopped cilantro.

6. Place the thighs on a warm platter. Spoon the sauce over them, garnish with the sprigs of cilantro and serve. Place the thighs on a warm platter. Spoon the sauce over them, garnish with the sprigs of cilantro and serve.

Roasted Brined Turkey with Fennel-Herb Stuffing Brining poultry before roasting produces an amazingly succulent bird, but brining a 15-pound turkey can present some problems, such as, "What kind of container can hold it for brining?" "Where do I store it?" A nonreactive 16-quart stockpot will work, but since I don't have one, I simply purchased an inexpensive extra-large plastic bucket from Home Depot, identical in size to a large bucket of joint compound. (Never use a container that ever held any kind of building materials, no matter how seemingly benign-the plastic may contain chemical residues.) Whatever your container, wash it thoroughly beforehand. an amazingly succulent bird, but brining a 15-pound turkey can present some problems, such as, "What kind of container can hold it for brining?" "Where do I store it?" A nonreactive 16-quart stockpot will work, but since I don't have one, I simply purchased an inexpensive extra-large plastic bucket from Home Depot, identical in size to a large bucket of joint compound. (Never use a container that ever held any kind of building materials, no matter how seemingly benign-the plastic may contain chemical residues.) Whatever your container, wash it thoroughly beforehand.

When we recently purchased a new refrigerator, we moved the old one into our bas.e.m.e.nt to call into service for recipes like this. Before I had two refrigerators, I simply made this recipe during cool weather. The bucket fit neatly on the stairs inside the bulkhead leading to my bas.e.m.e.nt, where it was cold, but certainly not freezing. If you don't live in a part of the country that gets cool, you'll have to engage in a draconian refrigerator purge, for at least a day, to make this work. The final alternative is simply to try the recipe with a smaller bird, the size of a container that will fit in your refrigerator.

I try to match the size of the turkey to the size of the gathering so I don't have to worry about too many leftovers. I like to save enough for a few days of sandwiches and maybe a risotto or pasta dish. The rest goes into soup-stuffing and all-and I then freeze the soup. A month or two later, people are actually happy to have some turkey soup.

MAKES 10 ENTReE SERVINGS.

1 fresh (or defrosted frozen) 15-pound turkey BRINE.

2 gallons water 2 cups kosher salt cup packed brown sugar 10 bay leaves 4 sprigs fresh rosemary, roughly chopped 1 cup chopped fresh sage STUFFING.

4 celery stalks, peeled and chopped into -inch dice 2 fennel bulbs, trimmed of stalks and tough outer layers, cut lengthwise in half, cored, and chopped into -inch dice 6 garlic cloves, finely chopped Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 8 cups -inch cubes rustic white bread, lightly toasted cup chopped fresh sage 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary 1 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley About 1 cups apple cider BASTING b.u.t.tER.

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter 6 bay leaves 1 teaspoon fennel seeds Freshly ground black pepper (optional) GRAVY cup unbleached all-purpose flour cup dry Madeira or dry sherry 3 cups Chicken (or turkey) Stock (page 31) or 6 cups high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth, reduced to 3 cups (see page 32) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper DO AHEAD: Brine the turkey for 10 to 12 hours. Before you unwrap the turkey, make sure your brining container is large enough and that 2 gallons of brining solution (the amount in this recipe) will actually cover your bird. To check, place the wrapped turkey in the container and pour 2 gallons of water over it. As long as the turkey is completely submerged, it doesn't matter if you don't use all the brining solution. If the turkey fits in the container but isn't completely covered, adjust the quant.i.ties to make 3 (or more) gallons of brine, as necessary. Brine the turkey for 10 to 12 hours. Before you unwrap the turkey, make sure your brining container is large enough and that 2 gallons of brining solution (the amount in this recipe) will actually cover your bird. To check, place the wrapped turkey in the container and pour 2 gallons of water over it. As long as the turkey is completely submerged, it doesn't matter if you don't use all the brining solution. If the turkey fits in the container but isn't completely covered, adjust the quant.i.ties to make 3 (or more) gallons of brine, as necessary.

1. To prepare the turkey, remove the bag of organs from its cavity. Set aside for another use. Rinse the turkey thoroughly and pat dry. To prepare the turkey, remove the bag of organs from its cavity. Set aside for another use. Rinse the turkey thoroughly and pat dry.

2. To make the brine, mix 8 cups of the water with the remaining brine ingredients in a large pot. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer for 10 minutes. Transfer to your clean brining bucket, add the remaining 1 gallons water, and let cool completely. To make the brine, mix 8 cups of the water with the remaining brine ingredients in a large pot. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer for 10 minutes. Transfer to your clean brining bucket, add the remaining 1 gallons water, and let cool completely.

3. Immerse the turkey in the brining solution. Cover. Put the bucket into the refrigerator or a cool place for 10 to 12 hours. Immerse the turkey in the brining solution. Cover. Put the bucket into the refrigerator or a cool place for 10 to 12 hours.

4. To make the suffing, melt the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. When the foam subsides, add the onions, celery, and fennel and cook for 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until it just releases its aroma, about a minute. Season with salt and pepper. Combine the cooked vegetables with the remaining stuffing ingredients except the cider in a large bowl. Toss well. Then add only enough cider so the stuffing is moist, but not soggy. Taste and season if necessary. Remember the turkey will be brined, so be careful not to oversalt the stuffing. To make the suffing, melt the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. When the foam subsides, add the onions, celery, and fennel and cook for 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until it just releases its aroma, about a minute. Season with salt and pepper. Combine the cooked vegetables with the remaining stuffing ingredients except the cider in a large bowl. Toss well. Then add only enough cider so the stuffing is moist, but not soggy. Taste and season if necessary. Remember the turkey will be brined, so be careful not to oversalt the stuffing.

5. To make the basting b.u.t.ter, melt a stick of b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan with the bay leaves and fennel seeds. Remove from the heat and let sit for 30 minutes. Remove the bay leaves, pour into a small container, and chill until firm. (You can do this up to 48 hours ahead and reheat.) To make the basting b.u.t.ter, melt a stick of b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan with the bay leaves and fennel seeds. Remove from the heat and let sit for 30 minutes. Remove the bay leaves, pour into a small container, and chill until firm. (You can do this up to 48 hours ahead and reheat.) 6. To roast the turkey, preheat the oven to 350F. Remove the turkey from the brine and rinse well. Dry well inside and out. Do not salt, but season with pepper if desired. To roast the turkey, preheat the oven to 350F. Remove the turkey from the brine and rinse well. Dry well inside and out. Do not salt, but season with pepper if desired.

7. Fill the turkey cavity loosely with the stuffing, then sew up the cavity. Do not truss the legs together-although a turkey with its legs tied looks neater, the meat of the inner legs and thighs tends to cook more slowly than the breast if it is trussed. Brush the bird all over with the bay b.u.t.ter. Set breast side down on a b.u.t.tered rack in a roasting pan. Fill the turkey cavity loosely with the stuffing, then sew up the cavity. Do not truss the legs together-although a turkey with its legs tied looks neater, the meat of the inner legs and thighs tends to cook more slowly than the breast if it is trussed. Brush the bird all over with the bay b.u.t.ter. Set breast side down on a b.u.t.tered rack in a roasting pan.

8. Roast for 2 hours. After 2 hours, flip the bird so the breast is up. Roast for an additional hour. Baste with bay b.u.t.ter every 30 minutes throughout the roasting time. Roast for 2 hours. After 2 hours, flip the bird so the breast is up. Roast for an additional hour. Baste with bay b.u.t.ter every 30 minutes throughout the roasting time.

9. Increase the heat to 400F and roast until the skin is crisp and brown and the bird is done: the juices should run clear when the thigh is pierced at the thickest point, and an instant-read digital thermometer inserted at that point should register 165F. Transfer to a platter for 30 minutes before carving. Increase the heat to 400F and roast until the skin is crisp and brown and the bird is done: the juices should run clear when the thigh is pierced at the thickest point, and an instant-read digital thermometer inserted at that point should register 165F. Transfer to a platter for 30 minutes before carving.

10. Meanwhile, make the gravy: Pour off all but cup of fat from the roasting pan. Be careful not to pour off the caramelized drippings. Put the pan on top of the stove over medium heat. Sprinkle the flour into the pan. Using the back of a slotted spoon, stir the flour about the pan, sc.r.a.ping the crispy bits of drippings loose. Cook until the flour starts to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the Madeira and continue stirring until it thickens. Add the stock and simmer for 10 minutes. Strain. Season with salt and pepper. Keep warm. Meanwhile, make the gravy: Pour off all but cup of fat from the roasting pan. Be careful not to pour off the caramelized drippings. Put the pan on top of the stove over medium heat. Sprinkle the flour into the pan. Using the back of a slotted spoon, stir the flour about the pan, sc.r.a.ping the crispy bits of drippings loose. Cook until the flour starts to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the Madeira and continue stirring until it thickens. Add the stock and simmer for 10 minutes. Strain. Season with salt and pepper. Keep warm.

11. Scoop the stuffing out of the turkey into a serving bowl. Present the turkey at the table, along with the stuffing and gravy, then carve. I like to return to the kitchen for the business of carving, especially since I prefer removing the breast whole, then cutting it into crosswise slices. I also slice the meat off the drumsticks. Arrange the meat on the platter and serve. Scoop the stuffing out of the turkey into a serving bowl. Present the turkey at the table, along with the stuffing and gravy, then carve. I like to return to the kitchen for the business of carving, especially since I prefer removing the breast whole, then cutting it into crosswise slices. I also slice the meat off the drumsticks. Arrange the meat on the platter and serve.

Seared Quail Stuffed with Mascarpone and Green Peppercorns Quail deserve to be more popular with home cooks in this country. They're relatively inexpensive; they're readily available already boned (except for the legs); they make a dramatic presentation; popular with home cooks in this country. They're relatively inexpensive; they're readily available already boned (except for the legs); they make a dramatic presentation; and and our children love them. Quail are a great bird for grilling or sauteing, and their succulent dark meat is a rich alternative to the bland white-meat chicken that fills the poultry sections of most supermarkets. It's always amusing to me to see how long dinner guests can resist using their fingers after they've consumed as much of the quail as possible using their knives and forks. They just have to gnaw those remaining morsels off the legs. our children love them. Quail are a great bird for grilling or sauteing, and their succulent dark meat is a rich alternative to the bland white-meat chicken that fills the poultry sections of most supermarkets. It's always amusing to me to see how long dinner guests can resist using their fingers after they've consumed as much of the quail as possible using their knives and forks. They just have to gnaw those remaining morsels off the legs.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

2 cups apple cider 1 tablespoon grainy mustard 8 semi-boneless quail 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil celery stalk, peeled and cut into -inch dice 1 shallot, minced 4 ounces ( cup) mascarpone 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme 2 teaspoons green peppercorns in brine, rinsed and drained 2 teaspoons prepared horseradish, drained Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons vegetable oil DO AHEAD: Marinate the quail for at least 2 hours; they can marinate overnight without the taste suffering if it's more convenient. Marinate the quail for at least 2 hours; they can marinate overnight without the taste suffering if it's more convenient.

1. Bring the cider to a boil in a medium saucepan. Lower the heat to medium and reduce the cider to Bring the cider to a boil in a medium saucepan. Lower the heat to medium and reduce the cider to cup, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat. cup, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat.

2. When the cider is cool, stir in the mustard. Toss the quail with the cider reduction in a nonreactive container and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. When the cider is cool, stir in the mustard. Toss the quail with the cider reduction in a nonreactive container and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

3. Heat the olive oil in a small saute pan over medium heat. Add the celery and shallots. Cook until tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool. Heat the olive oil in a small saute pan over medium heat. Add the celery and shallots. Cook until tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool.

4. Mix the vegetables with the mascarpone, thyme, peppercorns, and horseradish. Season with salt and pepper. The mixture will be quite stiff. Divide it equally into 8 portions and form them into ovals. Place them on a baking sheet lined with wax paper. Freeze until semi-solid, about 2 hours. (They have to be at least semi-solid before you use them, or they'll melt too fast during cooking; if you want to freeze them for longer, that's fine.) Mix the vegetables with the mascarpone, thyme, peppercorns, and horseradish. Season with salt and pepper. The mixture will be quite stiff. Divide it equally into 8 portions and form them into ovals. Place them on a baking sheet lined with wax paper. Freeze until semi-solid, about 2 hours. (They have to be at least semi-solid before you use them, or they'll melt too fast during cooking; if you want to freeze them for longer, that's fine.) 5. When ready to cook, place a frozen cheese oval in the cavity of each quail. Thread a toothpick through the skin on either side of the cavity opening to hold the opening shut, or tie the legs together with butcher's twine to close the cavity. Sprinkle the quail liberally with salt and pepper. When ready to cook, place a frozen cheese oval in the cavity of each quail. Thread a toothpick through the skin on either side of the cavity opening to hold the opening shut, or tie the legs together with butcher's twine to close the cavity. Sprinkle the quail liberally with salt and pepper.

6. Heat the vegetable oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the quail breast side down (you may have to cook them in two batches, or use two pans; put the finished birds on a platter in a warm 200F oven) and cook until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Pay close attention to the pan: The cider reduction has a high sugar content, and if it gets too hot, it will start to burn; lower the heat as necessary. Turn the birds over and cook for an additional 10 minutes. At 10 minutes per side, the birds should be cooked medium. An instant-read digital thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the leg should read 165F for medium. Cook longer if desired. Don't worry if some of the melted mascarpone starts to leak out after 15 minutes or so-just drizzle it over the quail before serving. Present the platter of quail at the table. Heat the vegetable oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the quail breast side down (you may have to cook them in two batches, or use two pans; put the finished birds on a platter in a warm 200F oven) and cook until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Pay close attention to the pan: The cider reduction has a high sugar content, and if it gets too hot, it will start to burn; lower the heat as necessary. Turn the birds over and cook for an additional 10 minutes. At 10 minutes per side, the birds should be cooked medium. An instant-read digital thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the leg should read 165F for medium. Cook longer if desired. Don't worry if some of the melted mascarpone starts to leak out after 15 minutes or so-just drizzle it over the quail before serving. Present the platter of quail at the table.

HOW TO GRILL QUAILThis dish adapts easily to the grill, and if you can use wood chips to smoke the quail while they're cooking, all the better. The quail are first seared on a hot portion of the grill, then finish cooking in disposable aluminum pie plates on a cooler part of the grate, with the grill cover closed. If you want to omit the mascarpone filling, simply cook the marinated quail on a hot grill for 4 to 6 minutes per side.1. Prepare a grill with hot and medium cooking areas (see page 265 if you're unfamiliar with how to do this). A grill is hot when you can't hold your hand near the grill surface for longer than 2 seconds; it's medium when you can't hold your hand there for longer than 4 seconds.2. Brush the hot part of the grate with oil and set the quail breast side down on it. Leave them just long enough to get a good grill mark, only a minute or two. Transfer the quail to two disposable aluminum pie plates. Close the cover of the grill, reduce the heat (on a gas grill lower the heat to medium; on a charcoal grill, close the vents halfway), and cook for 15 minutes, then check for doneness. (Don't be concerned if some of the mascarpone runs into the pie plates. Just pour it over the quail before serving.) An instant-read digital thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the leg should register 165F for medium. If you poke the leg with a skewer and the juices run clear, it's well-done - of course, the puddle of molten cheese in the pie plate will also be a clue. If the quail need to cook longer, close the top and try again in a few minutes. After you've grilled quail a few times, you'll find you're able to tell how done it is just by pinching the breast.WHAT IS FARRO?Farro is a Mediterranean cereal grain similar to spelt (if that doesn't mean anything to you, think barley). From prehistoric times through the sixth and seventh centuries it was a staple of both European and Near Eastern Mediterranean peoples, but the appearance of higher-yielding strains of wheat after the fall of the Roman Empire eventually displaced it except as a local specialty in a few isolated areas. It has experienced something of a revival and is now exported to the United States, where chefs find its complex nuttiness and slightly resistant texture a worthwhile addition to their palate of grains. In Italy, it is customary to soak farro overnight before cooking it, but I've found the difference between the soaked and unsoaked grain to be so minor it's not worth the effort.HOW TO PEEL CHESTNUTSUse a sharp knife to cut an X in the flat side of each chestnut. Put the chestnuts in a saucepan, cover with salted water, cover, and bring to a boil. Cook for 4 minutes, then turn off the heat. After the pan has cooled for a few minutes, remove a chestnut. Leave the remaining chestnuts in the water; if you remove them all, they'll become difficult to peel. (This is a good time to use disposable latex gloves-they insulate your fingers against the heat.) Peel away the sh.e.l.l and inner skin of the chestnut, using a paring knife. The chestnuts should be tender. If they are not, don't try cooking them longer; simply chop coa.r.s.ely and proceed. They'll finish cooking in the pan or in the stuffing. A pound of fresh chestnuts yields about 1 cup peeled cooked chestnuts.

Quail, Farro, and Chestnut Stew Save this hearty winter stew for a weekend getaway with friends. Farro is a Mediterranean grain whose mildly chewy texture and rustic flavor make it a perfect match for the gamy flavor of quail. Don't let the ingredients list overwhelm you-give everybody a job chopping herbs or vegetables, and soon all the ingredients will be ready. The actual cooking is quite simple and the results are more than worth it. After all, how often do you get to eat anything stuffed with cherries soaked in grappa? When the stunning finished dish of quail sitting atop a steaming mound of aromatic farro and chestnuts arrives, everybody will feel they had a hand in its creation. for a weekend getaway with friends. Farro is a Mediterranean grain whose mildly chewy texture and rustic flavor make it a perfect match for the gamy flavor of quail. Don't let the ingredients list overwhelm you-give everybody a job chopping herbs or vegetables, and soon all the ingredients will be ready. The actual cooking is quite simple and the results are more than worth it. After all, how often do you get to eat anything stuffed with cherries soaked in grappa? When the stunning finished dish of quail sitting atop a steaming mound of aromatic farro and chestnuts arrives, everybody will feel they had a hand in its creation.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

MARINADE.

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 shallots, minced cup pure maple syrup 1 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme 1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary 1 tablespoon chopped juniper berries 1 tablespoon cider vinegar

4 semi-boneless quail 4 teaspoons dried cherries, soaked in 2 tablespoons grappa for 30 minutes (optional) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped into -inch dice 1 celery stalk, peeled and chopped into -inch dice 1 small carrot, peeled and chopped into -inch dice 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 cup farro (available in specialty food stores, Italian markets, and some health food stores) 4 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme 1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary 4 bay leaves 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest 2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 cup cooked and peeled chestnuts (page 244), sliced inch thick 1 tablespoon pure maple syrup pound arugula or other tender, quick-cooking green, such as spinach 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar DO AHEAD: Marinate the quail 4 to 6 hours in the refrigerator. Marinate the quail 4 to 6 hours in the refrigerator.

1. To make the marinade, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil with the shallots in a small saute pan over low heat and cook until the shallots are tender, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool. To make the marinade, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil with the shallots in a small saute pan over low heat and cook until the shallots are tender, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool.

2. Combine the shallots with the remaining marinade ingredients in a large bowl. Add the quail and rub inside and out with the marinade. If using the cherries, put a teaspoon of cherries in the cavity of each bird. Cover and marinate for 4 to 6 hours in the refrigerator. Combine the shallots with the remaining marinade ingredients in a large bowl. Add the quail and rub inside and out with the marinade. If using the cherries, put a teaspoon of cherries in the cavity of each bird. Cover and marinate for 4 to 6 hours in the refrigerator.

3. Sprinkle the quail inside and out with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Sear the quail breast side down until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Turn the birds over and cook for an additional 4 minutes. They should still be rare. Remove the quail to a plate and let cool, then cover and refrigerate. Sprinkle the quail inside and out with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Sear the quail breast side down until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Turn the birds over and cook for an additional 4 minutes. They should still be rare. Remove the quail to a plate and let cool, then cover and refrigerate.

4. Meanwhile, wipe any burned bits out of the pan with a paper towel. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil, the onion, celery, and carrot. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender and lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, only a minute or two. Meanwhile, wipe any burned bits out of the pan with a paper towel. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil, the onion, celery, and carrot. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender and lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, only a minute or two.

5. Add the farro, chicken stock, thyme, rosemary, bay leaves, and lemon zest. Season with salt and pepper. Lower the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook until the farro is tender, about 35 minutes. It should be quite creamy, like a loose risotto. Add the farro, chicken stock, thyme, rosemary, bay leaves, and lemon zest. Season with salt and pepper. Lower the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook until the farro is tender, about 35 minutes. It should be quite creamy, like a loose risotto.

6. While the farro is cooking, heat the b.u.t.ter in a small saute pan over medium-low heat. Add the chestnuts, season with salt and pepper, and cook until golden brown. Add the maple syrup and stir well. Remove from the heat. While the farro is cooking, heat the b.u.t.ter in a small saute pan over medium-low heat. Add the chestnuts, season with salt and pepper, and cook until golden brown. Add the maple syrup and stir well. Remove from the heat.

7. Add the glazed chestnuts and arugula to the farro and toss well. Set the quail on top of the farro, cover, and cook until the quail are done, about 10 minutes. An instant-read digital thermometer inserted into the thick part of the thigh should read 160F for medium-rare. Cook more or less, according to amount of doneness desired. Add the glazed chestnuts and arugula to the farro and toss well. Set the quail on top of the farro, cover, and cook until the quail are done, about 10 minutes. An instant-read digital thermometer inserted into the thick part of the thigh should read 160F for medium-rare. Cook more or less, according to amount of doneness desired.

8. Transfer the quail to a plate. Spoon the farro onto a platter; remove the bay leaves. Arrange the quail atop the farro, drizzle with balsamic vinegar, and serve. Transfer the quail to a plate. Spoon the farro onto a platter; remove the bay leaves. Arrange the quail atop the farro, drizzle with balsamic vinegar, and serve.