Prepare Chicken Broth. Preheat oven to 375F (190C). b.u.t.ter a 13 9-inch baking dish. Melt cup b.u.t.ter in a medium saucepan.When b.u.t.ter foams, add onion and carrot. Saute over medium heat until onion is pale yellow. Add pancetta. Saute until lightly colored. Combine tomato paste and broth and add to saucepan. Simmer uncovered 20 to 25 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Fill a very large saucepan two-thirds full with salted water. Bring water to a boil. Add macaroni. Bring water back to a boil and cook macaroni uncovered until tender but firm to the bite, 6 to 8 minutes.

Drain macaroni and place in b.u.t.tered baking dish. Prepare Basic White Sauce. Stir tomato sauce and white sauce into macaroni; mix to blend. Add cup Parmesan cheese; mix gently. Sprinkle remaining Parmesan cheese over macaroni and dot with 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter. Bake 10 to 15 minutes or until cheese is melted and top is golden. Serve hot.

MACARONI WITH VODKA SAUCE.

Maccheroni con la Vodka This simple sauce is a creation of the Dante restaurant in Bologna.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 1 cups Plain Tomato Sauce, page 208 1 cups Plain Tomato Sauce, page 208 cup b.u.t.ter cup b.u.t.ter 4 slices ( pound) pancetta, page 4, diced 4 slices ( pound) pancetta, page 4, diced cup vodka cup vodka cup whipping cream cup whipping cream Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 pound grooved macaroni, such as penne or rigatoni 1 pound grooved macaroni, such as penne or rigatoni cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Prepare Plain Tomato Sauce. Melt b.u.t.ter in a large skillet.When b.u.t.ter foams, add pancetta. Saute over medium heat until lightly colored. Add vodka and stir until it has evaporated. Stir in tomato sauce and cream. Simmer uncovered 8 to 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Fill a very large saucepan two-thirds full with salted water. Bring water to a boil. Add macaroni. Bring water back to a boil and cook macaroni uncovered until tender but firm to the bite, 8 to 10 minutes.

Drain macaroni and place in skillet with sauce.Toss macaroni and sauce over medium heat until sauce coats macaroni, 20 to 30 seconds. Serve immediately with Parmesan cheese.

MACARONI WITH HAM AND ASPARAGUS.

Maccheroni con Prosciutto Cotto e Asparagi It takes longer to prepare a frozen dinner than to cook this absolutely delectable dish.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 1 pounds small asparagus 1 pounds small asparagus cup b.u.t.ter cup b.u.t.ter 2 medium onions, thinly sliced 2 medium onions, thinly sliced pound boiled ham, diced pound boiled ham, diced 1 cup whipping cream 1 cup whipping cream Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 pound medium-size macaroni, such as penne 1 pound medium-size macaroni, such as penne cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for serving cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for serving

Wash asparagus and cut tips off stalks. Reserve stalks for another use. Fill a medium saucepan half full with salted water. Bring water to a boil. Add asparagus tips. Boil about 1 minute or until tender but firm. Drain asparagus.

Melt b.u.t.ter in a large skillet.When b.u.t.ter foams, add onions. Saute over medium heat until pale yellow. Add drained asparagus and ham. Saute 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in cream. Simmer 2 minutes or until cream begins to thicken. Season with salt and pepper.

Fill a very large saucepan two-thirds full with salted water. Bring water to a boil. Add macaroni. Bring water back to a boil and cook macaroni uncovered until tender but firm to the bite, 8 to 10 minutes.

Drain macaroni and place in skillet with sauce. Add cup Parmesan cheese.Toss macaroni and sauce over medium heat until sauce coats macaroni, 20 to 30 seconds. Serve immediately with additional Parmesan cheese.

TAGLIOLINI WITH SCALLOPS, CREAM AND SAFFRON.

Tagliolini con Cape Sante allo Zafferano If sauce reduces too much, instead of adding more cream add a bit of pasta cooking water.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS Basic Egg Pasta Dough, page 40, made with 2 cups all-purpose flour Basic Egg Pasta Dough, page 40, made with 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 pound scallops, the smallest you can get 1 pound scallops, the smallest you can get 2 garlic cloves, finely minced 2 garlic cloves, finely minced 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup dry white wine 2 cups whipping cream 2 cups whipping cream Pinch of powdered saffron Pinch of powdered saffron Salt to taste Salt to taste 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Prepare pasta dough and roll out into pasta sheets. Dry pasta sheets 10 to 15 minutes. Feed pasta sheets through the narrow cutting blades of the pasta machine to make tagliolini. Arrange noodles in soft piles on a large tablecloth.

Melt b.u.t.ter with the oil in a large skillet. When b.u.t.ter foams, add scallops. Saute over medium heat until scallops are lightly golden, about 1 minute.With a slotted spoon transfer scallops to a plate. Add garlic to the skillet and stir once or twice. Add wine and cook until the wine is almost all reduced. Add cream and saffron. Cook, over medium heat, 4 to 5 minutes. Season lightly with salt. Return scallops to the skillet and cook 1 to 2 minutes longer. Stir in parsley.

Meanwhile fill a large saucepan two-thirds full with salted water. Bring water to a boil and add the noodles. Bring water back to a boil and cook noodles uncovered until tender but firm to the bite, 4 to 6 minutes depending on the freshness of the noodles. Drain noodles and place in skillet with the sauce.Toss noodles with the sauce over medium heat and serve at once.

STRICHETTI WITH GARLIC AND TOMATO SAUCE.

Strichetti all'Aglio e Pomodoro When I first learned to make pasta, this was my favorite one to make and eat.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS Basic Egg Pasta Dough, page 40, made with 3 cups all-purpose flour Basic Egg Pasta Dough, page 40, made with 3 cups all-purpose flour 2 cups Tomato Sauce Bologna Style, page 203 2 cups Tomato Sauce Bologna Style, page 203 cup olive oil cup olive oil 6 garlic cloves, finely chopped 6 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 tablespoons chopped parsley Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Prepare Basic Egg Pasta Dough. Cut a small piece of dough and work through the pasta machine until you have a thin sheet of pasta. Cut pasta sheet into rectangles 2 inches wide and 2 inches long. Pinch the 2 long sides of each rectangle together in the center making b.u.t.terfly shapes or strichetti. Repeat with remaining dough, rolling out and shaping 1 sheet of pasta at a time. Spread strichetti in a single layer on a large tablecloth to dry.

Prepare Tomato Sauce Bologna Style. Heat oil in a medium saucepan. Add garlic and parsley. Saute 1 minute over medium heat. Just before garlic changes color, add tomato sauce and salt and pepper. Cook uncovered 5 to 8 minutes.

Fill a very large saucepan two-thirds full with salted water. Bring water to a boil. Add strichetti. Bring water back to a boil and cook strichetti uncovered until tender but firm to the bite. Drain strichetti and place in a warm deep dish or bowl. Add sauce.Toss strichetti and sauce gently until mixed. Serve immediately with Parmesan cheese.

RIGATONI WITH PEPERONATA.

Rigatoni con la Peperonata Peperonata is too good to use only as a side dish so here it is transformed into a superb pasta dish.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

2 cups Peperonata, page 171 1 pound rigatoni or any large, grooved macaroni 1 pound rigatoni or any large, grooved macaroni Freshly ground pepper to taste Freshly ground pepper to taste

Prepare Peperonata and keep warm.

Fill a very large saucepan two-thirds full with salted water. Bring water to a boil. Add rigatoni. Bring water back to a boil and cook rigatoni uncovered until tender but firm to the bite, 8 to 10 minutes.

Drain rigatoni and place in a warm deep dish or bowl. Pour Peperonata over rigatoni. Season with pepper. Serve immediately.

FETTUCCINE WITH b.u.t.tER AND CREAM.

Fettuccine all'Alfredo Fettuccine is the Roman name for noodles.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS Basic Egg Pasta Dough, page 40, made with 2 cups all-purpose flour Basic Egg Pasta Dough, page 40, made with 2 cups all-purpose flour cup b.u.t.ter cup b.u.t.ter 1 cup whipping cream 1 cup whipping cream Salt and white pepper to taste Salt and white pepper to taste cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for serving cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for serving

Prepare noodles from Basic Egg Pasta Dough. Melt b.u.t.ter in a large skillet. When b.u.t.ter foams, add cream. Simmer over medium heat about 2 minutes until slightly thickened. Season with salt and white pepper.

Fill a very large saucepan two-thirds full with salted water. Bring water to a boil. Add noodles. Bring water back to a boil and cook noodles uncovered until tender but firm to the bite.

Drain noodles and place in skillet with cream. Add cup Parmesan cheese. Toss noodles and sauce over medium heat until sauce coats noodles, 20 to 30 seconds. Serve immediately with additional Parmesan cheese.

Sh.e.l.lS WITH SAUSAGE AND TOMATO RAGu.

Conchiglie con Ragu di Salsiccia e Pomodoro This appetizing sauce, from Emilia-Romagna, can be served over any kind of pasta.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 large leek, white part only, rinsed and finely minced 1 large leek, white part only, rinsed and finely minced 1 large carrot, finely minced 1 large carrot, finely minced 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, finely chopped pound mild Italian sausage pound mild Italian sausage pound sliced pancetta, page 4, diced pound sliced pancetta, page 4, diced 1 cup full-bodied red wine 1 cup full-bodied red wine 4 cups canned imported Italian tomatoes with juice, put through a strainer or a food mill to remove seeds 4 cups canned imported Italian tomatoes with juice, put through a strainer or a food mill to remove seeds 1 cup Chicken Broth, page 23, or canned chicken broth 1 cup Chicken Broth, page 23, or canned chicken broth Salt to taste Salt to taste 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 1 pound pasta sh.e.l.ls or penne 1 pound pasta sh.e.l.ls or penne cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Melt b.u.t.ter with oil in a medium saucepan. Add leek and carrot. Cook over medium heat, stirring, until the vegetables are lightly golden and soft. Add the garlic and stir once or twice. Remove the casing from the sausage and finely chop meat. Increase heat and add sausage and pancetta to the saucepan. Cook, stirring, until the sausage and pancetta are lightly colored. Add the wine. Cook until the wine is almost all reduced. Add the tomatoes and broth. Season with salt. Reduce heat and simmer uncovered 15 to 20 minutes, then stir in parsley.

Fill a very large saucepan two-thirds full with salted water. Bring water to a boil. Add the sh.e.l.ls. Bring water back to a boil and cook sh.e.l.ls uncovered 7 to 10 minutes until tender but firm to the bite. Drain sh.e.l.ls and place in a warm deep dish or bowl. Add sauce and toss gently. Serve immediately with a generous sprinkling of grated Parmesan cheese.

BAKED CANNELLONI.

Cannelloni al Forno An elegant dish for a party, it can be prepared ahead.

MAKES ABOUT 20 CANNELLONI, 6 TO 8 SERVINGS MAKES ABOUT 20 CANNELLONI, 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 2 cups Plain Tomato Sauce, page 208 Basic White Sauce, page 205, made with 3 cups milk 2 cups Plain Tomato Sauce, page 208 Basic White Sauce, page 205, made with 3 cups milk Meat Filling 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 pound chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s, boned, skinned, chopped into small pieces 1 pound chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s, boned, skinned, chopped into small pieces pound prosciutto, page 4, diced pound prosciutto, page 4, diced pound mortadella, diced pound mortadella, diced cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 2 or 3 tablespoons whipping cream, if needed 2 or 3 tablespoons whipping cream, if needed Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Basic Egg Pasta Dough, page 40, made with 4 cups all-purpose flour cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter

Prepare Plain Tomato Sauce. Prepare Basic White Sauce.

Prepare Meat Filling: Melt b.u.t.ter in a medium skillet. When b.u.t.ter foams, add chicken pieces. Saute over medium heat until lightly colored. Put chicken and all other ingredients except cream in a blender or food processor. Blend to a paste. If mixture is too dry, add cream. Season with salt and pepper. Prepare Basic Egg Pasta Dough. Dry pasta sheets 10 minutes. Cut sheets into 5-inch squares.

Preheat oven to 400F (205C). b.u.t.ter a 13 9-inch baking dish. Fill a very large saucepan two-thirds full with salted water. Bring water to a boil. Add 7 or 8 pasta squares. Bring water back to a boil and cook pasta uncovered 10 seconds.With a large slotted spoon, place pasta in a large bowl of cold water. Remove pasta squares immediately and lay on kitchen towels. Pat dry with another towel. Repeat with remaining pasta squares.

Place 1 or 2 tablespoons Meat Filling down center of each dried pasta square. Fold 2 opposite edges of pasta over filling to make a tube. Place cannelloni with folded edges down, close together in a single layer in b.u.t.tered baking dish. Spoon tomato sauce over cannelloni. Cover with white sauce. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and dot with b.u.t.ter. Bake 10 to 15 minutes or until cheese is melted and cannelloni are lightly golden. Let stand 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

SPAGHETTI WITH SPRING VEGETABLES.

Spaghetti Primavera This dish captures the bountifulness of spring.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 5 medium tomatoes 5 medium tomatoes pound small asparagus pound small asparagus 1 medium zucchini 1 medium zucchini pound small white mushrooms pound small white mushrooms 1 large red or green sweet pepper 1 large red or green sweet pepper 5 tablespoons olive oil 5 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, thinly sliced 1 medium onion, thinly sliced Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 3 tablespoons chopped parsley 3 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 pound spaghetti 1 pound spaghetti

Peel, seed and dice tomatoes. Wash asparagus and cut tips off stalks. Reserve stalks for another use. Wash and dry zucchini and mushrooms thoroughly; cut into thin slices. Wash pepper and cut into short thin strips.

Heat oil in large skillet. Add pepper strips and saute over medium heat 5 to 6 minutes. Add onion, zucchini, asparagus tips and mushrooms. Saute 4 to 5 minutes. Add diced tomatoes and salt and pepper. Cook uncovered over medium heat 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Stir in parsley and garlic.Taste and adjust for seasoning.

Fill a very large saucepan two-thirds full with salted water. Bring water to a boil. Add spaghetti. Bring water back to a boil and cook spaghetti uncovered until tender but firm to the bite, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain spaghetti and place in a warm deep dish or bowl. Pour sauce over spaghetti. Serve immediately.

SPAGHETTI WITH TUNA SAUCE.

Spaghetti con il Tonno Do not serve cheese over this pasta; be generous with the pepper instead.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS cup olive oil cup olive oil 4 flat anchovy fillets, finely chopped 4 flat anchovy fillets, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 (28-ounce) can crushed Italian-style or whole tomatoes 1 (28-ounce) can crushed Italian-style or whole tomatoes Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 (7-ounce) can tuna in olive oil, drained, flaked 1 (7-ounce) can tuna in olive oil, drained, flaked 3 tablespoons chopped parsley 3 tablespoons chopped parsley 1 pound spaghetti 1 pound spaghetti