Garganelli con Porcini e Prosciutto Affumicato This is one of the delicious dishes of Trattoria Gigina in Bologna that departs a bit from tradition because speck, smoked Italian ham from the Alto Adige region, is used instead of prosciutto. Of course prosciutto or pancetta can also be used. And if you can get fresh porcini mushrooms, clean them with a damp cloth, slice them and use them instead of dry porcini, just as instructed below.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 1 ounces dried porcini mushrooms, soaked in 2 cups lukewarm water 20 minutes 1 ounces dried porcini mushrooms, soaked in 2 cups lukewarm water 20 minutes 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter cup very finely minced yellow onion cup very finely minced yellow onion 2 or 3 thick slices (3 ounces) speck or prosciutto, finely diced 2 or 3 thick slices (3 ounces) speck or prosciutto, finely diced 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup dry white wine cup heavy cream cup heavy cream Salt to taste Salt to taste 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf Italian parsley 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf Italian parsley 1 recipe Pasta Dough (page 40) rolled out and cut for garganelli or 1 pound imported dried garganelli or penne rigate 1 recipe Pasta Dough (page 40) rolled out and cut for garganelli or 1 pound imported dried garganelli or penne rigate to cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese to cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Drain porcini mushrooms and reserve soaking water. Rinse mushrooms well under cold running water and chop them roughly. Line a strainer with paper towels and strain mushroom water into a bowl to get rid of sandy deposits. Set aside.

Heat 3 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onion and cook, stirring, until onion is lightly golden and soft, about 5 minutes. Add porcini mushrooms and speck or prosciutto and stir for a minute or two. Add wine. Cook, stirring occasionally, until wine is reduced by about half. Add 1 cup of reserved porcini water and cream. Season lightly with salt. As soon as sauce begins to bubble, reduce heat to low and simmer, uncovered until it has a medium-thick consistency, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir parsley and remaining b.u.t.ter into sauce and turn heat off under skillet.

Meanwhile bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add 1 tablespoon of salt and pasta. Cook, uncovered, over high heat until pasta is tender but still a bit firm to the bite. Scoop up and reserve about 1 cup of pasta cooking water.

Drain pasta and place in skillet with sauce. Season lightly with salt, and add about cup of Parmigiano.Toss everything quickly over medium heat until pasta and sauce are well combined.

If pasta seems dry, add some of reserved pasta water and stir quickly to incorporate.Taste, adjust seasoning and serve with remaining Parmigiano.

Variation For a tomato-based sauce, stir 2 tablespoons imported double concentrated Italian tomato paste into 2 cups of reserved porcini water and add to mushrooms. Omit cream. Simmer sauce until it has a medium-thick consistency.

TAGLIOLINI WITH SOLE AND LEMON ZEST.

I Tagliolini con Sugo di Sogliola e Limone In this dish fresh sole is cubed and sauteed quickly in oil scented with garlic. Some wine, grated zest of lemon and fresh marjoram complete the sauce. This is a dish that is as light as it is quick to prepare, and relies on the freshness of the fish and marjoram.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS cup olive oil cup olive oil 2 garlic cloves, peeled 2 garlic cloves, peeled pound (about inch thick) filet of sole, diced pound (about inch thick) filet of sole, diced cup dry white wine cup dry white wine Grated zest of 1 lemon Grated zest of 1 lemon Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter cup loosely packed marjoram leaves or 1 to 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf Italian parsley cup loosely packed marjoram leaves or 1 to 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf Italian parsley 1 recipe Pasta Dough, page 41, rolled out and cut for tagliolini, or 1 pound imported tagliolini

Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and cook until golden brown on all sides.

Discard garlic and add sole. Cook, stirring, until sole is light golden and fish juices have thickened, about 2 minutes. Increase heat to high and add wine. Stir until wine is almost all reduced. Add lemon zest, and season with salt and just a bit of pepper. Reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid in skillet has a medium-thick consistency, 3 to 4 minutes. Add b.u.t.ter, marjoram or parsley, stir once or twice and turn heat off.

Meanwhile bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add 1 tablespoon of salt and pasta. Cook, uncovered, over high heat, until pasta is tender but still firm to the bite. Scoop up and reserve about 1 cup of pasta cooking water.

Drain pasta and add it to sauce. Stir quickly over medium heat until pasta and sauce are well combined. Add some of reserved pasta water if pasta seems a bit dry.Taste, adjust seasoning and serve.

PENNE WITH ONION, RED BELL PEPPERS AND TOMATOES.

Penne alla Peperonata In Italian home cooking, many vegetable dishes are versatile enough to become sauces for pasta. Here is a perfect example. Peperonata, a traditional Bolognese vegetable dish of slowly braised onion, bell peppers and tomatoes, becomes a terrific sauce for penne, rigatoni or sh.e.l.ls. The addition of a bit of pancetta to the vegetables enlivens the dish with extra flavor.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS cup extra-virgin olive oil cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 thick slice (2 to 3 ounces) pancetta, diced, optional 1 thick slice (2 to 3 ounces) pancetta, diced, optional 1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced 1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced 5 large red bell peppers, (about 2 pounds), cored, seeded and diced 5 large red bell peppers, (about 2 pounds), cored, seeded and diced 1 pound firm, ripe tomatoes, seeded and diced 1 pound firm, ripe tomatoes, seeded and diced Salt and freshly ground black pepper Salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 to 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar, optional 2 to 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar, optional 1 pound penne rigate or sh.e.l.ls 1 pound penne rigate or sh.e.l.ls

Heat cup of oil in a large skillet over medium heat.Add pancetta, if using, and cook, stirring, until golden, 2 to 3 minutes.With a slotted spoon transfer pancetta to a plate.

Place skillet back on medium heat. Add onion, cook, stirring, 2 to 3 minutes then add peppers. Cook, stirring, until peppers begin to color and soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Return pancetta to skillet, add tomatoes and season with salt and pepper. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until peppers are tender and juices in skillet have thickened, 15 to 20 minutes. Add a little water or broth if juices should reduce too much.Taste and adjust seasoning and turn heat off. (Sauce can be prepared several hours or a day ahead and refrigerated. Reheat gently before using.) Makes 2 to 3 cups sauce.

Cook pasta in plenty of salted boiling water until tender but still firm to bite. Put skillet back on medium heat. Add remaining oil and balsamic vinegar if using. Stir to blend.

Drain pasta and add to skillet with sauce. Season lightly with salt. Mix quickly over low heat until pasta and sauce are well combined. Taste, adjust seasoning and serve.

TAGLIATELLE BOLOGNA STYLE.

Tagliatelle alla Bolognese For a family meal follow this satisfying dish with some cheese and a green salad.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Basic Egg Pasta Dough, page 40, made with 3 cups all-purpose flour 2 cups Bolognese Meat Sauce, page 206 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for serving cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for serving

Prepare noodles from Basic Egg Pasta Dough. Prepare Bolognese Meat Sauce and keep warm.

Fill a very large saucepan two-thirds full with salted water. Bring water to a boil. Add noodles. Bring water back to a boil and cook noodles uncovered until tender but firm to the bite. Drain noodles and place in a warm deep dish or bowl.

Add sauce and cup Parmesan cheese. Toss gently until mixed. Serve immediately with additional Parmesan cheese.

GREEN TAGLIATELLE WITH TOMATO SAUCE.

Tagliatelle Verdi con Salsa Burro e Oro Follow this surprisingly delicate dish with any roast meat or poultry.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS Basic Spinach Pasta Dough, page 41, made with 2 cups all-purpose flour Basic Spinach Pasta Dough, page 41, made with 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 cups Plain Tomato Sauce, page 208 1 cups Plain Tomato Sauce, page 208 cup b.u.t.ter cup b.u.t.ter cup whipping cream cup whipping cream Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for serving cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for serving

Prepare noodles, page 41, from Basic Spinach Pasta Dough. Prepare Plain Tomato Sauce.

Melt b.u.t.ter in a medium saucepan. When b.u.t.ter foams, add tomato sauce and cream. Season with salt and pepper. Simmer uncovered 8 to 10 minutes. Fill a very large saucepan two-thirds full with salted water. Bring water to a boil. Add noodles. Bring water back to a boil and cook noodles uncovered until tender but firm to the bite.

Drain noodles and place in a warm deep dish or bowl. Add sauce and toss gently until mixed. Add cup Parmesan cheese and toss to blend. Serve immediately with additional Parmesan cheese.

GREEN AND YELLOW TAGLIATELLE WITH MUSHROOM SAUCE.

Tagliatelle Verdi e Gialle con Salsa di Funghi I cooked this beautiful dish for a dinner party and I received applause. What a reward!

MAKES 8 SERVINGS MAKES 8 SERVINGS Basic Spinach Pasta Dough, page 41 made with 2 cups all-purpose flour Basic Spinach Pasta Dough, page 41 made with 2 cups all-purpose flour Basic Egg Pasta Dough, page 40, made with 2 cups all-purpose flour Basic Egg Pasta Dough, page 40, made with 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 pound small white mushrooms 1 pound small white mushrooms cup b.u.t.ter cup b.u.t.ter 1 cup whipping cream 1 cup whipping cream 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 tablespoons chopped parsley Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for serving cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for serving

Prepare noodles from Basic Spinach Pasta Dough and Basic Egg Pasta Dough

Wash and dry mushrooms thoroughly and slice thin. Melt b.u.t.ter in a large skillet. When b.u.t.ter foams, add mushrooms. Saute over high heat until lightly colored. Stir in cream, parsley and salt and pepper. Simmer 2 to 3 minutes or until cream begins to thicken.

Fill a very large saucepan two-thirds full with salted water. Bring water to a boil. Add noodles. Bring water back to a boil and cook noodles uncovered until tender but firm to the bite.

Drain noodles and place in skillet with sauce; add cup Parmesan cheese. Toss noodles, sauce and cheese over medium heat until sauce coats noodles, 20 to 30 seconds. Serve immediately with additional Parmesan cheese.

PAPPARDELLE BAKED WITH SMOKED MOZZARELLA AND FRESH TOMATOES.

Pappardelle Pasticciate con Mozzarella Affumicata These wide, baked noodles are laced by melted, creamy mozzarella, b.u.t.ter and diced tomatoes-a most beautiful sight.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS Basic Egg Pasta Dough, page 40, made with 2 cups all-purpose flour Basic Egg Pasta Dough, page 40, made with 2 cups all-purpose flour 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 4 medium, ripe tomatoes, diced 4 medium, ripe tomatoes, diced 2 ounces smoked mozzarella, diced 2 ounces smoked mozzarella, diced 2 ounces whole-milk mozzarella, diced 2 ounces whole-milk mozzarella, diced 10 to 12 fresh basil leaves, shredded 10 to 12 fresh basil leaves, shredded Salt to taste Salt to taste cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Prepare pasta dough and roll out into pasta sheets. Let the pasta sheets dry about 5 minutes, then with a scalloped pastry wheel, cut them into broad noodles, 2 inches wide and 6 inches long.

Preheat oven to 400F (205C). b.u.t.ter a 13 9-inch baking dish. Fill a very large saucepan two-thirds full with salted water. Bring water to a boil. Add the noodles. Bring water back to a boil and cook noodles uncovered until tender but firm to the bite, 7 to 8 minutes.

While the noodles are cooking, melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat.When the b.u.t.ter foams, add the diced tomatoes. Cook 1 to 2 minutes, stirring. Drain the noodles and add to the tomatoes. Add mozzarella and basil, season lightly with salt and mix well. Put everything into the baking dish and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese. Bake 4 to 5 minutes or until the cheese is melted. Divide the pasta into 4 portions and serve immediately.

Note.

After baking, the pasta will be "tied" together with the cheeses.To serve it, divide the pasta into servings with a knife.

PAPPARDELLE WITH MUSHROOM SAUCE.

Pappardelle con i Funghi Pappardelle are the widest of all noodles.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS Basic Egg Pasta Dough, page 40, made with 3 cups all-purpose flour Basic Egg Pasta Dough, page 40, made with 3 cups all-purpose flour 1 pounds small white mushrooms 1 pounds small white mushrooms 5 tablespoons olive oil 5 tablespoons olive oil 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped cup dry white wine cup dry white wine 3 tablespoons chopped parsley 3 tablespoons chopped parsley Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter

Prepare Basic Egg Pasta Dough. Dry pasta sheets 10 minutes. With a fluted pastry wheel, cut each sheet of pasta into broad strips inch wide to make pappardelle. Arrange noodles in soft piles on a large tablecloth.

Wash and dry mushrooms thoroughly and slice thin. Heat oil in a large skillet. Add garlic and saute over medium heat about 1 minute.When garlic begins to color, add sliced mushrooms. Saute mushrooms over high heat until lightly colored. Add wine. Cook until wine is reduced by half, stirring constantly. Add parsley and cook 1 minute longer. Season with salt and pepper.

Fill a very large saucepan two-thirds full with salted water. Bring water to a boil. Add noodles. Bring water back to a boil and cook noodles uncovered until tender but firm to the bite.

Drain noodles and place in skillet with sauce; add b.u.t.ter. Toss noodles, sauce and b.u.t.ter over medium heat until sauce coats noodles, 20 to 30 seconds. Serve immediately.

BAKED MACARONI.

Maccheroni al Forno Try to resist a second helping!

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 2 cups Chicken Broth, page 23 or canned chicken broth 2 cups Chicken Broth, page 23 or canned chicken broth cup plus 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter cup plus 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped 4 slices ( pound) pancetta, page 4, diced 4 slices ( pound) pancetta, page 4, diced cup tomato paste cup tomato paste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 pound large, grooved macaroni 1 pound large, grooved macaroni Basic White Sauce, page 205, made with 2 cups milk Basic White Sauce, page 205, made with 2 cups milk cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese