Remove b.u.t.ter from skillet and clean with paper towels. Melt remaining 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter with oil over medium-high heat.When b.u.t.ter foams, add filet mignons. Cook 2 to 3 minutes on each side or until lightly browned. Season with salt and pepper. Add cup Marsala or sherry. Deglaze skillet by stirring to dissolve meat juices attached to bottom of skillet. Cook meat over medium heat to preferred doneness.

Place a filet mignon on each slice of bread. Keep warm. Add remaining Marsala or sherry and cream, if using, to skillet. Stir over high heat until sauce has a medium-thick consistency. Spoon sauce over meat.Top with truffle slices, if using. Serve immediately.

FILET MIGNONS WITH BRANDY, CREAM AND PEPPERCORNS.

Filetto con Brandy, Crema e Pepe Verde From the Bacco Restaurant in Bologna comes this elegant, modern dish.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS 2 tablespoons ketchup 2 tablespoons ketchup 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard 4 to 5 drops Worcestershire sauce 4 to 5 drops Worcestershire sauce 2 tablespoons green peppercorns or pinch red (cayenne) pepper 2 tablespoons green peppercorns or pinch red (cayenne) pepper 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons olive oil 6 filet mignons, 6 filet mignons, inch thick inch thick cup brandy cup brandy cup whipping cream cup whipping cream Salt Salt

In a small bowl, combine ketchup, mustard,Worcestershire sauce and green peppercorns or cayenne.

Melt b.u.t.ter with oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat.When b.u.t.ter foams, add filet mignons. Cook until lightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes on each side. Remove filet mignons from skillet.

Add brandy. Deglaze skillet by stirring to dissolve meat juices attached to bottom of skillet. Add ketchup-mustard mixture and cream; mix well. Return filet mignons to skillet. Season with salt. Cook over medium heat to preferred doneness. Place filet mignons on a warm platter. Spoon sauce over filet mignons. Serve immediately.

BEEF BRAISED IN BAROLO WINE.

Manzo al Barolo This dish comes from the Piedmont region where fine wines and beef are produced.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped 3 to 3 pounds beef bottom round or chuck 3 to 3 pounds beef bottom round or chuck Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 2 fresh or dried bay leaves 2 fresh or dried bay leaves Pinch of dried leaf thyme Pinch of dried leaf thyme 4 to 5 cups Barolo wine or any full-bodied red wine 4 to 5 cups Barolo wine or any full-bodied red wine 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped 1 celery stalk, finely chopped 1 celery stalk, finely chopped pound small white mushrooms pound small white mushrooms

Rub garlic into beef. Season with salt and pepper. Place beef in a large bowl. Add bay leaves, thyme and enough wine to cover meat. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Drain beef, reserving marinade. Dry beef with paper towels. Melt 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter with oil in a large, heavy ca.s.serole over medium heat. When b.u.t.ter foams, add beef and brown on all sides. Remove beef from ca.s.serole.

Add onion, carrot and celery to ca.s.serole. Saute until lightly browned. Return beef to ca.s.serole. Pour reserved marinade through a strainer over meat. Cover ca.s.serole and reduce heat. Simmer 2 to 2 hours or until beef is tender; turn and baste beef often during cooking.

Wash and dry mushrooms thoroughly and slice thin. Melt remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter in a medium skillet. Saute mushrooms over high heat until golden. Add mushrooms to ca.s.serole and cook 5 minutes longer.

Place beef on a cutting board and cool 5 minutes. If sauce is too thin, cook uncovered over high heat 5 to 10 minutes. Slice beef and arrange on a warm platter. Taste and adjust sauce for seasoning, then spoon over beef. Serve immediately.

BEEF GOULASH.

Gulasch di Manzo This Trentino-Alto Adige dish has an Austrian influence because Alto Adige was once part of Austria.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 1 cup Chicken Broth, page 23, or canned chicken broth 1 cup Chicken Broth, page 23, or canned chicken broth 3 pounds beef chuck 3 pounds beef chuck 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 medium onions, thinly sliced 3 medium onions, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 teaspoon paprika 1 teaspoon paprika 1 (28-ounce) can crushed Italian-style or whole tomatoes 1 (28-ounce) can crushed Italian-style or whole tomatoes 1 garlic clove 1 garlic clove teaspoon dried leaf marjoram teaspoon dried leaf marjoram teaspoon crushed dried bay leaves teaspoon crushed dried bay leaves Grated zest of 1 lemon Grated zest of 1 lemon Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Prepare Chicken Broth. Cut beef into 1- to 2-inch cubes. Melt b.u.t.ter and oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat. When b.u.t.ter foams, add onions. Saute until pale yellow. Add vinegar and paprika. Cook, stirring, until vinegar has evaporated. Add beef. Brown lightly on all sides.

Stir in tomatoes, garlic, marjoram, bay leaves, lemon zest, chicken broth, salt and pepper. Cover skillet and reduce heat. Simmer 1 to 2 hours or until beef is tender; stir occasionally during cooking. Serve hot.

Vegetables

The Etruscans belonged to an ancient civilization that lived in northern Italy. Their love of the soil and knowledge of irrigation and fertilization made them devoted and expert farmers.The Romans inherited this love of the land from the Etruscans.They developed and enjoyed many new varieties of vegetables. Since then, agriculture has been one of Italy's national resources. Maybe that is why Italians cook vegetables better than anyone else. Their farmers have been growing vegetables longer and their produce is some of the world's finest.

One of the extraordinary sights in an Italian open market is its vegetable stalls. There you will find colorful mounds of vegetables and fruit still fresh from the farmer's patch. The Italian cook inspects all this abundance with a critical eye. She touches, smells, compares and sometimes bargains. Satisfied with her purchase, she goes home to cook the freshest possible produce.

In an Italian meal, vegetables are always present. Many times meat is omitted from a family meal in favor of one or two types of vegetables.

In selecting fresh vegetables, look for bright colors and shiny skins without bruises.A good vegetable should be firm to the touch. When selecting zucchini or string beans, choose the smallest available. Asparagus should be bright green with compact tips. Choose broccoli with tender but firm stalks and no signs of yellow flowers within the buds. Carrots should be bright orange, small and smooth. Avoid cauliflowers with blemishes and look for a compact head. Eggplants are best if they are not too large, have firm flesh and bright-green leaves. Always select mushrooms with tightly closed caps.

Use your vegetables as soon as possible after purchase to take advantage of their freshness.

Vegetables are at their best when undercooked. Prolonged cooking will result in vitamin and texture loss.Vitamin-packed vegetables are essential to good nutrition.

To serve a meal without a vegetable is almost like hanging a painting without a frame. Choose from the real-life palette of colors and you'll see that their taste and appearance will enhance even the simplest of meals.

The patient wait for seasonal vegetables becomes especially rewarding when the first tiny peas or tender asparagus arrive on the market. When buying seasonal vegetables the good cook knows she is buying the freshest and most flavorful produce. She also knows she is saving money. Once you have bought the best possible produce, very little is needed to enhance its flavor.Why cover tender green asparagus with a rich, filling sauce? Why not boil it briefly then dress it simply with olive oil and lemon juice? Or sprinkle it with cheese, dot with a little b.u.t.ter and broil until the cheese is melted.

Italians love raw vegetables. One of the favorite ways to eat them is dipped in olive oil and salt. What could be simpler than that? This practice must have had a humble origin, but today some of the best restaurants serve vegetables this way.

A relative newcomer to Italian cuisine is the tomato. Tomatoes were introduced into Europe from North America around the year 1500. They were treated with suspicion and used like an exotic garden plant for many years.Today we can hardly imagine Italian cuisine without the tomato. A plump, sun-ripened tomato sliced and dressed with fresh basil and olive oil is delicious.

PEPERONATA.

In Bologna, Peperonata is served with Mixed Boiled Meats, page 161, and Green Sauce, page 206.

MAKES 3 TO 4 CUPS OR 8 TO 10 SERVINGS MAKES 3 TO 4 CUPS OR 8 TO 10 SERVINGS cup olive oil cup olive oil 2 medium onions, thinly sliced 2 medium onions, thinly sliced 5 sweet peppers, green and red, seeded, cut into strips 5 sweet peppers, green and red, seeded, cut into strips 5 medium tomatoes, chopped 5 medium tomatoes, chopped 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1 tablespoon tomato paste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste cup red wine vinegar cup red wine vinegar

Heat oil in a large skillet. Add onions and peppers. Saute over medium heat until onions are light golden and peppers have softened. Add tomatoes, tomato paste, salt and pepper. Cover and cook over medium heat 30 to 35 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add vinegar and mix well. Cook uncovered 10 minutes longer. Taste and adjust for seasoning. Serve hot or at room temperature.

BAKED ASPARAGUS WITH PARMESAN CHEESE.

Asparagi alla Parmigiana Select small asparagus with firm, tightly closed tips for this authentic dish from Parma.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

2 pounds asparagus cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter

Preheat oven to 350F (175C). b.u.t.ter a 13 9-inch baking dish. Cut off tough asparagus ends. Using a sharp knife or potato peeler, peel outer skin from asparagus.Tie asparagus together in 1 or 2 bunches with string or rubber bands.

Pour cold salted water 2 to 3 inches deep in an asparagus cooker, tall stockpot or old coffeepot. Place asparagus upright in water. Bring water to a boil. Cover and cook over high heat 6 to 8 minutes, depending on size.

Drain on paper towels; remove string or rubber bands. Arrange drained asparagus slightly overlapping in b.u.t.tered baking dish. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and dot with b.u.t.ter. Bake 10 to 15 minutes or until cheese is melted. For a light-golden topping, put baked asparagus briefly under a hot broiler. Serve hot.

BROCCOLI WITH GARLIC AND ANCHOVIES.

Broccoli in Padella con Acciughe This is an excellent and simple vegetable dish in the true Italian manner.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 2 pounds broccoli 2 pounds broccoli cup olive oil cup olive oil 3 garlic cloves, chopped 3 garlic cloves, chopped 3 flat anchovy fillets, mashed 3 flat anchovy fillets, mashed Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 3 tablespoons chopped parsley 3 tablespoons chopped parsley Cut off tough bottoms from broccoli. Using a sharp knife or potato peeler, peel outer skin. Divide broccoli and wash thoroughly under cold running water.

Fill a large saucepan two-thirds full with salted water. Bring water to a boil. Add broccoli and reduce heat. Simmer 5 to 8 minutes or until stalks are tender. Drain on paper towels.

Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Stir in garlic and anchovies. Add drained broccoli. Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with parsley.Turn broccoli gently and cook 3 to 5 minutes. Place broccoli on a warm platter and spoon over sauce. Serve hot.

FRIGGIONE.

There is no translation for Friggione. The word implies a range of ingredients fried together.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 5 to 6 tablespoons olive oil 5 to 6 tablespoons olive oil 4 potatoes, peeled, cut into small pieces 4 potatoes, peeled, cut into small pieces 2 large onions, thinly sliced 2 large onions, thinly sliced 2 red or green sweet peppers, seeded, cut into strips 2 red or green sweet peppers, seeded, cut into strips Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 2 cups canned crushed Italian-style or whole tomatoes 2 cups canned crushed Italian-style or whole tomatoes Heat oil in a large skillet. Add potatoes, onions and peppers. Season with salt and pepper. Cook uncovered over low heat 30 minutes, stirring several times.

Press tomatoes through a food mill or a sieve to remove seeds. Add tomato pulp to skillet. Cook uncovered over medium heat 25 to 30 minutes or until mixture reduces to a medium-thick consistency. Add salt and pepper to taste.

BOILED POTATOES TOSSED WITH b.u.t.tER.

Patate Saltate al Burro Many restaurants and trattorie serve boiled or steamed potatoes tossed in hot b.u.t.ter as an accompaniment to simple meat or fish preparations. If you are buying small new potatoes, don't bother to slice them. Simply peel them and toss them with hot b.u.t.ter. A bit of fresh sage can be used instead of parsley.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 1 pounds new potatoes or boiling potatoes, washed 1 pounds new potatoes or boiling potatoes, washed 3 to 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 to 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter Salt to taste Salt to taste 1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley 1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley

Put potatoes in a large pot and cover with 2 inches cold water. Bring water to a gentle boil and cook uncovered over medium heat until potatoes are tender and can be easily pierced with a thin knife, about 20 minutes. Drain potatoes and cool slightly. Peel potatoes and cut them into -inch-thick slices, trying not to break them.

Heat b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat.When b.u.t.ter begins to foam, add potatoes; season with salt. Cook and stir, moving potatoes around gently with a wooden spoon, until they are heated through and are well coated with b.u.t.ter. Stir in parsley and serve.

SAUTeED SPINACH.

Spinaci Saltati Serve this tasty spinach with Veal Chops Milan Style, page 148, or Stuffed Veal Roast, page 155.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS 2 pounds spinach 2 pounds spinach 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon salt 4 to 5 tablespoons olive oil 4 to 5 tablespoons olive oil 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped 3 flat anchovy fillets, chopped 3 flat anchovy fillets, chopped Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Wash spinach thoroughly in several changes of cold water. Discard stems and bruised or tough leaves. Put wet spinach into a large saucepan; add the 1 teaspoon salt. Cover pan. Cook over medium heat 10 to 12 minutes or until spinach is tender. Drain well; cool slightly. Squeeze spinach to remove as much moisture as possible.

Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and anchovies. Saute about 1 minute. Before garlic changes color, add spinach. Season with salt and pepper. Cook 2 to 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Serve hot.

EGGPLANTS WITH PARSLEY AND GARLIC.

Melanzane al Funghetto Capers add extra zest to this excellent dish.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS 2 medium eggplants 2 medium eggplants Salt Salt cup olive oil cup olive oil 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 3 tablespoons chopped parsley 3 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 tablespoons capers 2 tablespoons capers Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Peel eggplants. Cut lengthwise into 1-inch-thick slices. Sprinkle sliced eggplants with salt and place in a large dish. Set another large dish on top of eggplants and let stand 30 minutes. Salt draws out the bitter juices from eggplant. Pat dry with paper towels. Cut into cubes.