Melt b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat.When b.u.t.ter foams, add cutlets. Cook until meat has a light-golden crust, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Drain on paper towels.

Heat oil in skillet. Add onion and carrot. Saute over medium heat until lightly browned. Stir in Plain Tomato Sauce, salt and pepper. Cook 5 to 6 minutes. Add cutlets and peas. Reduce heat and simmer 8 to 10 minutes.Taste and adjust for seasoning. Arrange cutlets and sauce on a warm platter. Serve hot.

Variation Subst.i.tute 3 chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s, skinned, boned and split for the veal cutlets.

EGGPLANTS AND CUTLETS PARMIGIANA.

Parmigiana di Melanzane e Cotolette The complete dish can be prepared a day ahead and refrigerated.

MAKES 8 SERVINGS MAKES 8 SERVINGS 3 cups Plain Tomato Sauce, page 208 3 cups Plain Tomato Sauce, page 208 2 medium eggplants 2 medium eggplants Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 8 veal cutlets 8 veal cutlets Oil for frying Oil for frying 2 eggs 2 eggs 1 cups dry unflavored bread crumbs 1 cups dry unflavored bread crumbs 1 cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese 1 cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Prepare Plain Tomato Sauce. Peel eggplants. Cut lengthwise into -inch-thick slices. Sprinkle sliced eggplants with salt and place in a large dish. Set another large dish on top of eggplants and let stand 30 minutes. Salt draws out the bitter juices from eggplants. Pat eggplants dry with paper towels.

Place cutlets between 2 pieces of waxed paper and pound until thin.When pounding meat do not use a straight up-and-down movement. Use a sliding action so meat is stretched more than flattened.

Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add eggplants. Cook until golden on both sides. Drain on paper towels.

Beat eggs with salt and pepper in a medium bowl. Spread bread crumbs on aluminum foil. Dip cutlets in beaten eggs, then coat with bread crumbs. Press bread crumbs onto cutlets with the palms of your hands. Let coated cutlets stand 10 to 15 minutes.

Preheat oven to 400F (205C). b.u.t.ter a 13 9-inch baking dish. Heat more oil in skillet over medium heat. Add cutlets. Cook until cutlets have a golden-brown crust, 1 to 2 minutes on each side. Drain on paper towels.

Line bottom of b.u.t.tered baking dish with half the eggplants. Arrange a layer of 4 veal cutlets over eggplants.Top with half the Plain Tomato Sauce. Sprinkle half the Parmesan cheese over tomato sauce. Make another layer ending with a layer of tomato sauce and Parmesan cheese. Bake 15 to 20 minutes or until cheese is melted and golden.

VEAL CUTLETS BOLOGNA STYLE.

Cotolette alla Bolognese Fresh white truffles make this a dish fit for a king.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS cup Chicken Broth, page 23, or canned chicken broth cup Chicken Broth, page 23, or canned chicken broth 4 veal cutlets 4 veal cutlets 2 eggs 2 eggs Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 cup dry unflavored bread crumbs 1 cup dry unflavored bread crumbs 6 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese 6 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup b.u.t.ter cup b.u.t.ter 4 slices (about 2 ounces) prosciutto, page 4 4 slices (about 2 ounces) prosciutto, page 4 10 to 12 very thin slices white Italian truffles, if desired 10 to 12 very thin slices white Italian truffles, if desired

Prepare Chicken Broth. Place cutlets between 2 pieces of waxed paper and pound until thin. When pounding meat do not use a straight up-and-down movement. Use a sliding action so meat is stretched more than flattened.

Beat eggs with salt and pepper in a medium bowl. Combine bread crumbs with 2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese in a small bowl. Spread on aluminum foil. Dip cutlets in beaten eggs, then coat with bread crumb mixture. Press mixture onto cutlets with the palms of your hands. Let coated cutlets stand 10 to 15 minutes.

Melt b.u.t.ter in a medium skillet over medium heat. When b.u.t.ter foams, add cutlets. Cook until cutlets have a light-golden crust, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Place 1 slice prosciutto and 1 tablespoon Parmesan cheese on each cutlet. If using, add a few slices of white truffles. Add chicken broth. Cover skillet and reduce heat. Simmer 2 to 3 minutes or until cheese is melted.

Place meat on a warm platter. Taste and adjust sauce for seasoning, then spoon over meat. Serve immediately.

STUFFED VEAL BUNDLES WITH TOMATO-MARSALA WINE SAUCE.

Valigini di Vitello all'Emiliana Valigini, involtini, uccellini scappati are different names for the same basic Italian preparation. Thin slices of veal or pork are topped with savory ingredients and rolled up into small bundles. The bundles are then placed on skewers and grilled, or they are cooked with savory sauces. This version comes from my region of Emilia-Romagna. Serve with a few slices of crisp fried or grilled polenta, page 86. are different names for the same basic Italian preparation. Thin slices of veal or pork are topped with savory ingredients and rolled up into small bundles. The bundles are then placed on skewers and grilled, or they are cooked with savory sauces. This version comes from my region of Emilia-Romagna. Serve with a few slices of crisp fried or grilled polenta, page 86.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS Filling Filling pound sliced prosciutto, finely minced pound sliced prosciutto, finely minced 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley 1 small garlic clove, finely minced 1 small garlic clove, finely minced to to cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese 1 large egg, lightly beaten 1 large egg, lightly beaten Salt to taste Salt to taste 8 veal cutlets cut from top round, about 1 pounds, pounded thin Sauce Sauce 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter cup finely minced yellow onion cup finely minced yellow onion cup finely minced carrot cup finely minced carrot cup all-purpose flour cup all-purpose flour Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste cup dry Italian Marsala wine cup dry Italian Marsala wine 2 tablespoons double concentrated Italian tomato paste, diluted in 1 cups chicken broth or water 2 tablespoons double concentrated Italian tomato paste, diluted in 1 cups chicken broth or water Salt to taste Salt to taste

Prepare filling: In a small bowl combine prosciutto, parsley, garlic, Parmigiano and egg; season very lightly with salt. (Keep in mind that prosciutto and cup Parmigiano are already a bit salty.) Mix thoroughly until ingredients are combined into a nice, moist mixture. If mixture is too firm, add half of an additional beaten egg. If it is too soft add some more Parmigiano.

Place veal slices on a work surface, spread 1 scant tablespoon of filling over each slice, leaving a 1-inch border all around, and roll up veal loosely in bundles. Secure each bundle with 1 or 2 wooden picks and set aside until ready to use.

Prepare sauce: Heat oil and 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter in a large, heavy skillet or saute pan over medium heat. Add onion and carrot and cook, stirring, until mixture is light golden and soft, about 5 minutes.With a slotted spoon transfer vegetables to a dish.

Add remaining b.u.t.ter to skillet. Coat veal bundles lightly with flour and add to skillet. Season with salt and pepper. Cook over medium heat, until veal is light golden on all sides, 4 to 5 minutes.

Return vegetables to pan and increase heat to high. Add Marsala wine and stir quickly, to pick up brown particles attached to bottom of skillet. When wine is reduced by about half, add diluted tomato paste. As soon as sauce comes to a simmer, partially cover pan and reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer, stirring and basting veal occasionally, until veal is tender and sauce has a medium-thick consistency and an intense reddish color, 15 to 18 minutes.

Remove wooden picks, taste and adjust seasoning. Serve veal topped by a few tablespoons of the sauce. (The dish can be prepared completely a few hours ahead. Reheat gently before serving.) FILET OF BEEF WITH BALSAMIC VINEGAR.

Filetto di Manzo all'Aceto Balsamico In the cooking of Modena and Reggio-Emilia, balsamic vinegar plays a very fundamental role. This is only natural, because it is in these two cities that most of traditional balsamic vinegar is made. A few drops of balsamic on a roast or a perfectly grilled or sauteed steak can enhance simple preparations to new highs. Keep in mind that the older the balsamic is, the better your dish will taste.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 8 (-inch-thick) slices filet mignon (about 2 pounds total), lightly pounded 8 (-inch-thick) slices filet mignon (about 2 pounds total), lightly pounded cup extra-virgin olive oil cup extra-virgin olive oil cup all-purpose flour cup all-purpose flour Salt to taste Salt to taste 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter cup Meat Broth, page 22, or low-sodium canned beef broth cup Meat Broth, page 22, or low-sodium canned beef broth cup dry red wine cup dry red wine cup balsamic vinegar, or 2 to 3 tablespoons artisan-made aceto balsamico tradizionale cup balsamic vinegar, or 2 to 3 tablespoons artisan-made aceto balsamico tradizionale

In a large saute pan that can accommodate beef slices comfortably, heat oil over high heat. When oil is hot, flour slices lightly and add to pan without crowding. (If necessary brown meat in two batches.) Season with salt and cook until meat is golden brown on both sides, and pink and juicy on the inside, 4 to 5 minutes.Transfer meat to a platter and keep warm in a warm oven.

Discard some of the fat in skillet and put it back on medium heat. Add b.u.t.ter, broth and wine and bring to a gentle boil. Stir with a wooden spoon, sc.r.a.ping bottom of pan to pick up delicious bits and pieces attached to it.When sauce is reduced by about half and has a medium-thick consistency, add balsamic vinegar. Stir once or twice, pour over beef slices and serve at once.

MIXED BOILED MEATS.

Bollito Misto Serve with Green Sauce, page 206, and Sweet and Sour Sauce, page 208.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 1 (2- to 2-pound) cotechino sausage 1 (2- to 2-pound) cotechino sausage 3 to 3 pounds beef brisket 3 to 3 pounds beef brisket 3 to 4 large beef knuckle bones 3 to 4 large beef knuckle bones 1 large onion, quartered 1 large onion, quartered 2 celery stalks, chopped 2 celery stalks, chopped 2 carrots, chopped 2 carrots, chopped 2 or 3 parsley sprigs 2 or 3 parsley sprigs 1 tablespoon tomato paste or 2 medium tomatoes, quartered 1 tablespoon tomato paste or 2 medium tomatoes, quartered 1 tablespoon salt 1 tablespoon salt 1 (2- to 3-pound) chicken 1 (2- to 3-pound) chicken

Place cotechino sausage in a large bowl. Cover with cold water and soak overnight.

Puncture sausage skin in several places with a fork. Place in a large saucepan. Cover with water. Bring water to a boil. Reduce heat and cover pan. Simmer sausage 1 to 2 hours, depending on size.

While sausage is cooking, wash meat and bones thoroughly. Put everything, except cotechino sausage and chicken, into a large stockpot. Add enough water to cover. Cover stockpot and bring water to a boil. Reduce heat. Simmer 2 to 2 hours, skimming off surface foam frequently.

Add chicken. Simmer 1 to 1 hours longer or until meats are tender. Leave cotechino in its cooking liquid and other meats in their cooking liquid until ready to serve. Place meats on a cutting board. Reserve broth for soups. Slice beef and cotechino sausage and carve chicken. Arrange everything on a large warm platter. Serve immediately.

FLORENTINE STEAK.

Bistecca alla Fiorentina This steak has been a specialty of Florence for centuries and is famous all over Italy.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

4 large T-bone steaks, about 1 inches thick Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Olive oil Olive oil

Preheat barbecue with wood or charcoal until very hot. Place steaks on grill. Cook 4 to 5 minutes on first side or until dark brown.Turn steaks carefully without puncturing them. Cook other side to desired doneness. Season with salt and pepper. Place steaks on individual dishes. Add a few drops of olive oil to each steak. Serve immediately.

FAMILY-STYLE PATTIES.

Polpettine Casalinghe Any leftover meat can be used for these crunchy patties.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 3 slices white bread 3 slices white bread cup milk cup milk 1 pounds ground veal or beef 1 pounds ground veal or beef pound mortadella or boiled ham, finely chopped pound mortadella or boiled ham, finely chopped teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 4 eggs 4 eggs to to cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 to 2 cups dry unflavored bread crumbs 1 to 2 cups dry unflavored bread crumbs Oil for frying Oil for frying

Remove crust from bread.Tear bread into pieces. Combine bread and milk in a small bowl and squeeze together into a soft pulp.

In a large bowl, combine veal or beef, mortadella or ham, bread-milk mixture, nutmeg, 2 of the eggs, Parmesan cheese, salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly.

Spread bread crumbs on aluminum foil. Beat remaining 2 eggs with salt and pepper in a small bowl. Take a generous tablespoon of meat mixture, shape it into a small ball, then flatten between the palms of your hands. Dip patties into beaten eggs, then coat with bread crumbs. Press bread crumbs onto patties with the palms of your hands. Repeat until all mixture is used.

Pour oil 1 inch deep in a large saucepan or skillet. Heat oil until a 1-inch cube of bread turns golden almost immediately. Using a slotted spoon, lower patties a few at a time into hot oil. Turn patties. When golden on both sides, remove from oil with slotted spoon. Drain on paper towels. Arrange drained patties on a warm platter. Serve hot.

MEAT LOAF BOLOGNA STYLE.

Polpettone alla Bolognese It can't always be steak so let this tasty dish solve the budget problem.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS 3 slices white bread 3 slices white bread cup milk cup milk 2 pounds chopped beef 2 pounds chopped beef 2 eggs, lightly beaten 2 eggs, lightly beaten pound pancetta, page 4, finely chopped pound pancetta, page 4, finely chopped to to cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste cup dry unflavored bread crumbs cup dry unflavored bread crumbs cup olive oil cup olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped 1 medium onion, chopped 1 carrot, chopped 1 carrot, chopped 1 celery stalk, chopped 1 celery stalk, chopped 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped parsley cup dry white wine cup dry white wine 1 to 2 cups canned crushed Italian-style tomatoes 1 to 2 cups canned crushed Italian-style tomatoes

Preheat oven to 375F (190C). Remove crust from bread.Tear bread into pieces. Combine bread and milk in a small bowl and squeeze together into a soft pulp.

In a large bowl, combine beef, bread-milk mixture, eggs, pancetta, Parmesan cheese, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly. Shape mixture into a large flat sausage shape about 10 inches long and 3 inches thick. Coat meat loaf with bread crumbs, pressing crumbs into meat lightly.

Heat oil in a medium ca.s.serole. Add onion, carrot, celery and parsley. Saute over medium heat until onion is pale yellow. Add meat loaf.

Bake 20 to 25 minutes or until meat loaf is light golden. Add wine. Bake 10 minutes or until wine has evaporated. Add tomatoes. Bake 30 to 40 minutes longer, basting meat loaf with tomato sauce a few times during cooking. Cool meat loaf 5 to 10 minutes before slicing. Serve with 1 or 2 tablespoons sauce over each serving.

FILET MIGNONS PIEDMONT STYLE.

Filetto alla Piemontese Some of the best truffles in the world come from Piedmont and are widely used in local cooking.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 4 slices white bread 4 slices white bread 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons anchovy paste 2 tablespoons anchovy paste 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon olive oil 4 filet mignons, 4 filet mignons, inch thick inch thick Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 cup dry Marsala wine or sherry 1 cup dry Marsala wine or sherry cup whipping cream, if desired cup whipping cream, if desired 10 to 12 very thin slices white Italian truffles, if desired 10 to 12 very thin slices white Italian truffles, if desired

Remove crust from bread. Melt 3 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a medium skillet over medium heat.When b.u.t.ter foams, add bread. Cook until golden on both sides. Place bread on a large ovenproof platter. Spread tablespoon anchovy paste on each slice of bread. Keep platter warm in oven.