Got to Wareham 1/4 before 9. Washed and shaved by borrowed tackle. A delightful drive down the mountain; many turns in the road diversifying the view; many pines dying, large tanneries. Morrisville, the last four miles rough road; got to Hobart 10 minutes after 2, most of the last 12 miles rough road; a good many saw mills on the way; the turnpike gates, a ladder let down from the house hardly sufficiently to leave head room.

Not much regularity in conveying the mail owing to uncertain state of the roads. Further delay caused by not always dining at the same place.

At Bloomville at 1/4 past 4; the last seven miles the valley has been widening. Arrived at Delhi 1/4 before 6. Took my place on to Green; paid 2 dollars 38 cents. Immediately pa.s.sed over a considerable mountain; a very rough road and a lame horse. Got a basin of milk and a slice of bread which proved a good supper. On setting out I took my seat on the top, but was told by the driver that he had another going with him, but I did not yield, and he put a negro to drive both me and the horses, but it did not do. I was glad to have an opportunity of showing the Americans that I made no distinction.

TUESDAY, AUGUST 19TH.

Pa.s.sed a very restless night in the coach. At Bainbridge made to wait nearly an hour, then to collect 4 ladies and two men, so that the stage was considered quite full. After breakfast paid 30 cents, also 75 cents for Binghampton on my way to Montrose; could not have a seat by the driver. Found a very intelligent American, he depicts divisions amongst themselves chiefly caused by the ignorant and immoral, especially the Irish; arrived at half past eleven. Paid a dollar to Montrose and set off at once; the morning and scenery delightful, and the company made me not think of sleeping. Left Binghampton at one. Crickets chirping almost at the top of the Catskill Mountains. The vehicle from Binghampton a clumsy concern, but as there was only a boy besides myself I had control over it, as if it were my own though carrying the mail. I walked up the steepest parts and now and then had a chat with the settlers. Partook of some nice blackberries, got to Montrose at 8; very fair travelling considering the mountainous paths we had come over. Find Pike 20 miles off and no stage till the day after to-morrow, so that I might as well have remained at Binghampton another day, but unless there be something interesting, I always find myself most happy when on the wing bringing me nearer home; got tea, and to bed at half past eight, in hopes of getting up the rest I had lost the two and may be the three last nights.

Put away the wool from my sore.

WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 20TH.

Rose soon after seven; found no arrangements made for getting me on to Pike; resolved to go immediately in some way. Informed of a person going 13 miles on the road. At ten he came and a very sensible man I found him; said the bank had registered certain wealthy individuals improperly, and therefore the charter had been refused; this more than the removal of the deposits had injured the credit and business of the country; admitted that there was too much paper money but thought it should have been lessened gradually; Hindle & Co. should have been called to account. The President had no right to renew the deposits without consent of the Senate, and hence their displeasure; the Representatives support him on account of popularity. A most interesting account of his father who had lived 50 years in one house and unwilling to sleep from home. Had 15 children, 8 still living. At the end of 13 miles. .h.i.tchc.o.c.k's saw-mill; he took me to a farmer who agreed to go on with me about 8 miles further; after travelling some time I stepped out to enquire at a house on the road side for Noah Makinson. "He lives here," I was told. Immediately Noah appeared looking much thinner and older; did not know me. One of the daughters set off to fetch her mother; in less than two hours she came with her two daughters; on entering she gazed a long time, said she did not know me, and then cried out "Is it Robert?" and almost fainted; she suffered from a difficulty of breathing but soon was better, and we chatted away the evening. A sheep was killed.

THURSDAY, AUGUST 21ST.

Rose at seven. Found Alice better than I expected considering the hurry and fatigue of yesterday, though thin and weak she has much of her old features, not so deaf as I expected; sits a good deal, often smiling. An American breakfast; coffee, beef steaks, eggs, tart and cakes like crumpet, made from buck wheat. The house not large but comfortable; a very large new barn with shippen, stable and granary and a good stock of hay. Had agreed for the same with a neighbour on the following terms, to make the hay and have one half. The house pleasantly situated on the slope of a hill on a good road; nearly 80 acres 30 chains on each side of the road; a good spring of water near the house; seven cows, two horses, pigs, geese and poultry and guinea-hens. The breakfast consists of coffee, bread and b.u.t.ter, eggs, beef or mutton with buck wheat cakes resembling crumpets also blackberry pies and potatoes; nearly the same at dinner, and again at supper with tea. Make their own sugar from the maple; a hole is bored into the trees; a chip placed below to guide the sap into a tub; this is done with about a hundred trees at the beginning of April; a fire place is made in the woods and the pans are hung over by means of long wooden hooks, and the sap is boiled down into sugar, a supply for the year. They make their own candles and soap, the latter from the wood ashes. Went to see many people who appear very comfortably settled. Noah surprised the family by consenting to go with us.

FRIDAY, AUGUST 22ND.

John is married and settled in Rhode Island: Ann a nice spirited girl employed in tailoring and has seen a good deal of society. Mary a most cheerful and pleasing young woman married to a young man Aery Gridley, a carpenter and also farmer, a steady active young man not too good for her. James a.s.sists his father but prefers the joiner's business; Hannah rather l.u.s.ty, does a good deal in the house and also a.s.sists Ann; Martha the youngest, her spine injured in her youth, a very sly little person and says very droll things. Noah often affected when talking of old friends in England; related some grievances of the family not treating him with respect, particularly his two sons. The daughters too fond of visiting and dressing. This evening a neighbour's dog catches an animal called a woodchuck somewhat resembling a beaver; it is considered good food and indeed is to be prepared for dinner. Mary and her husband came about eight and returned about half past ten. Besides woodchucks they eat the black and grey squirrels, the yellow and striped are not liked; both are killed because they devour the grain, a large cat frequently catches them. Two horses are great favourites with all the family, the best was hurt last Christmas by a cow. They have two waggons.

SAt.u.r.dAY, AUGUST 23RD.

The breakfast profuse as usual. Went to watch logs being sawn to be burned, chiefly hemlock, a species of pine; other sorts brought home for fires; went out to gather blackberries; all the neighbours very sociable and kind, particularly attentive to Alice when poorly. Nothing like stealing is known; most of the houses without a lock or bolt. Alice was first ill at the end of January, has had difficulty of breathing, but was better; at the end of April had a sort of fit that caused her to be insensible for some time; in June after severe coughing she commenced spitting blood that continued three weeks; violent palpitations of the heart, greatly relieved by digitalis that she still takes; perspires a good deal and one eye is still weaker than the other and is often running; so ill was she that her burial suit was prepared. The battlements of bridges generally coped with wood.

SUNDAY, AUGUST 24TH.

Got both horses to the waggon, and all but the two old folks set off to the Meeting House about 6 miles; rather late, found a great many other horses and waggons, also one or two better looking carriages or as we should say phaetons; there is no shed as in some places so that in winter or wet weather the horses must suffer terribly. The Minister Samuel Henderson, an Irishman, was just beginning the sermon; very orthodoxical and loud; rapped the Universalists as relying upon the mercy of G.o.d and forgetting His justice. The singing, German hymns, chiefly done by the choir. After service notice was given of the Lord's Supper, and those in the centre were requested to go to the sides to make room for the communicants; after the bread was broken it was handed to the deacons, then all arose and a prayer was delivered, the same with the wine. An urgent request that they would not bring the service into disgrace by any immoral conduct; nearly 2 when finished, therefore no service in the afternoon and went and dined at Mary's, had tea, pies, cakes and cuc.u.mbers; then a pleasant chat afterwards and a walk through the orchard; not much fruit in consequence of snow and ice on the 15th of May. On getting back, several neighbours came to sit with us and we chatted till near ten. Alice retired earlier.

MONDAY, AUGUST 25TH.

After breakfast went with James and Ann to Pike. Rode on the back of the waggon. A pleasant walk; entered one of the stores filled as usual with a great quant.i.ty of articles. Walked back with Ann who said a good deal about her father's temper. I admitted that he was often unreasonable, but as he intended the best they should bear up with it, as it might be possible that a time would come when such conduct would prove the most satisfactory. Ann said her mother was quite the contrary, pleased to see them get on and wished them to have a little company; was told that there were very few round about but what were more or less in their debt, they owed nothing; mentioned a person who has had 300 dollars of Mary's, and now had 50 belonging to Ann for which they got interest; Ann the prettiest, Mary pleasing and cheerful, Hannah l.u.s.ty and good tempered, Martha a most droll piece; James appears well disposed but cannot get on with his father; this the case with one brother John but he has left home. Being the last night we had a family chat.

TUESDAY, AUGUST 26TH.

In the morning Mary came to see me off. All the family seemed in sorrow at the thought of my going; continually finding something to send; opened my portmanteau two or three times. Half past eleven brought the stage and I was forced to take my leave, all of us greatly affected, particularly Alice (the mother) and I, that could never expect to see each other again. I shook hands with each one and said to them "G.o.d bless you" and then hurried out of the house. Mary came on part of the way. Got to Orrell 1/4 past 1 to await the mail from Oswego; proceeded in 20 minutes; arrived at Towanda half past four; the last 8 miles very disagreeable, warm and dusty. Paid 87-1/2 cents. Met with Mr. Overton an English gentleman who said he would call upon me. He did so, took me to his house, gave me wine then took me to another Englishman Mr. Wandsey a hearer of Dr. Rees. His sister was to accompany Miss Martineau. Paid fare to Berwick 3-1/2 dollars, and 31 cents for tea and bed. Very glad to find such favourable accounts of Mr. Kay and his family. All along the locusts had been destroyed.

WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 27TH.

Left Towanda 1/4 before six, a misty morning; the road lined with walnut and oak trees and the wild vine; only myself in the stage. Enquired if no mistakes in the charge for bed and tea, said it was the usual charge.

Crossed over the Sugar Mountain so called because of so many maples; one part of the walk very disagreeable through ferns and over old trees and all this before breakfast. Arrived at Cherrytown village half past one, without any food for man or beast since setting out, luckily I got a draught of milk; the pa.s.sengers three young people who had been at a wedding. Had a most excellent breakfast and dinner, good coffee all for 25 cents. This stage 4 horses 21 miles, six times a week, one of the horses has done it 9 years. Not much of a prospect from the summit on account of the trees. A Northumbrian living at the top said America was the place for a poor man; 5 or 6 families came out before him, and only one had failed; and he had property. In some parts ascending the mountain the very worst road I have seen, one of the poor horses lost a shoe, but could have no help till we got to the end, 21 miles: arrived soon after eight, the horse being much less lame than could have been expected. At Columbus our crazy coach had to be girded as it had to go over a very dangerous ridge. We got safe to Berwick at 1/2 past 12, got coffee 25 cents; pa.s.sage 1-3/4 dollars.

THURSDAY, AUGUST 28TH.

A pleasant ride along the ca.n.a.l and the Susquehanna, free from dust. Got to Northumberland before 10. Large frogs at one part in the ca.n.a.l.

Called on Mr. Kay, he had had an illness which prostrated him much and been unable to preach during that time. Had a long and interesting chat with the family, 4 sons and 4 daughters, the eldest are smart girls, one about 24, the other 30, the youngest 16. Dined with them in a very pleasant family way, roasted mutton and Yorkshire pudding. Mrs. K. gave me a note to Dr. Priestley's[30] grandson at the Bank, and desired me to ask him to tea. Spent the evening at the Kay's, very nice people, the second daughter very pleasing and difficult to leave, perhaps would have been impossible in a short time. Mr. Priestley joined us.

FRIDAY, AUGUST 29TH.

Met the gentleman I had seen at Montrose. Paid for bed and breakfast, good coffee, 37-1/2 cents, and 2-1/2 dollars to Pottsville. Walked with Mr. Priestley to his grandfather's grave and also to the house where he died; a beautiful willow planted by the doctor. Spent an hour with Mr.

Kay. Left Northumberland at 10, changed horses after 13-1/2 miles. A most delightful morning.

SAt.u.r.dAY, AUGUST 30TH.

Called at four. Took up a gentleman who proved to be an English Catholic priest, very intelligent and pleasant. Soon got on the railway, a pleasant ride through the forest, got a gla.s.s of milk; breakfasted at Tuscarora, 25 cents. Pa.s.sed Tamaqua, where a Catholic chapel had lately been erected; my companion the minister. Travelled through a narrow path covered with brushwood; came to the summit where an immense ma.s.s of coal is worked like an open stone quarry; the coal is taken away on rails to Mauch Chunk and then by ca.n.a.l to Philadelphia, etc., etc. The waggon and cars are let down by one man who can move a drag upon each by means of a connecting rope, and the mules also ride down to draw up the empty waggons. Descended in 45 minutes 40 miles. Mauch Chunk most romantically situated at the foot of the mountains almost overhanging the town. Left my friend the priest. Arrived at Lehigh Gap 1/4 past 2, an interesting drive, changing sides with the ca.n.a.l and river. One of the old greys like that yesterday, made a few false steps. We now left the ca.n.a.l and river; a surly driver, near losing my coat; some walnuts; a good deal of Dutch spoken in this neighbourhood. Arrived at Easton 1/4 past seven.

Finding no direct conveyance to Trenton and that the fare to Philadelphia is only one dollar, I have agreed to go to Philadelphia.

Paid for supper and bed 50 cents. Got to bed at 8.

SUNDAY, AUGUST 31ST.

Called at half past three; left at four; pa.s.sed over a bridge of wood suspended by iron chains, took a seat with the driver; a little drizzling rain; the b.u.t.ton trees[31] again; apples more plentiful; the drive beautiful along the river (Delaware), high hills on each side; the woods a little tinted; some thorn hedges; a good many walnut trees. Had coffee and pancakes, paid 30 cents. The land generally better cleared and the houses more substantially built. Pa.s.sed a funeral of a woman who burned herself to death yesterday by smoking. A long range of stabling shut up, and the hotel changed into a private house. The driver said these ca.n.a.ls and railways would be the ruin of the country. Most beautiful weeping willows; some of the slender branches hanging down 5 or 6 feet. Pa.s.sed the race course or rather trotting course; this is generally run by drawing a light high-wheeled sulky. Stopped at the White Swan Hotel, Philadelphia, where the coach stopt; found it to be a good inn but rather too far from the Exchange, etc. After washing and changing my dress I called upon the Masons to know about worship in the evening; went and heard a most excellent sermon by Mr. Furness: Heb. 12 and 2 verse, "Look to Him." He mentioned the general desire to do well but the difficulty of performance, the character of Christ the most influential; mentioned the perplexity attending the belief in His two natures.

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 1ST.

Returned early to bed, and this morning found heavy rain; how extremely fortunate that I have completed my tour in such brilliant weather, not having had occasion for an umbrella since leaving Philadelphia. Borrowed an old ragged umbrella and called at Mr. Hulme's, found Mr. H. gone to N.Y. and also Mr. Rollanson gone from home. Kindly invited to stop with Mr. H. during my stay at Philadelphia. Called upon Mr. Kay's son; found him in a large book store; then called upon Mr. Scholfield but not seeing him promised to call at three. Walked to the Exchange and read the English papers, after dinner went and sat three hours with Mr.

Scholfield; found him less altered than most of my old acquaintances, he lives with his daughter who is married to a Londoner, named Patten, and carries on the stay or corset business. Mr. S. a very sensible man greatly opposed to Jackson; has some little munic.i.p.al office; well acquainted with the Crooks, Mrs. Marsden, and others. Had tea with the Masons, and had a good deal of talk about old matters in England.

Servetus, a very respectable young man carrying on an extensive blacking trade; the sister a very steady girl had lived some time with Mr.

Furness. The old man as eccentric as ever, his wife looking old but cheerful.

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 2ND.

Called at Kay's book store and selected a few books to send to N. M.

Then called again upon Ridings; after dinner walked to the wharf and saw a steamer going to N.Y. Observed a good many persons fishing without much success; then to the Exchange news room. Read the account of Mrs.

Hardcastle's death, G. Crompton's and M. Houghton's marriage, and Mr.

Shepherd made into a Doctor. Then strolled past the Mansion House into Walnut Street and Chesnut Street. Took tea at Mr. Hulme's, found a younger son who is preparing to practise medicine, also Francis Taylor on his way to N.Y. to see his mother. Met Mr. Rollanson; the younger brother gone to Louisville. Had some nice peaches and melon at supper.

Invited to dinner to-morrow which I could not refuse. After the rain the streets, particularly the footpaths and white marble steps appear remarkably clean. Mr. Scholfield says there is a person who has ten thousand peach trees in one orchard, and 4 such orchards.

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 3RD.

Called at Mr. Kay's printing place and found a son of J. Haslam's. Then called upon the father who is become very gray; the son also is turning gray; he was settled many years at a college at Charleston advantageously, but was obliged to give up on account of health; he has now a small school which is on the increase; a good apparatus; his mother well acquainted with uncle Thomas's wife, and his father a companion of my uncles and father. Mr. Scholfield called this morning to say that he expected Mr. John Wood at his house to meet me. Selected some more books for N. M.'s family and wrote two letters to N. M., and his daughter Mary. At two dined at Mr. Hulme's, met another son of Dr.

Taylor's employed at a manufactory. After dinner walked to a private museum; a good collection of birds, sh.e.l.ls, etc., also some fine works on natural history with beautiful coloured plates; an immense collection of specimens of plants bequeathed to the inst.i.tution. A skeleton riding on horseback made ludicrous by a spider's web resembling a bridle.

Thence we visited Mr. Pierpoint's garden. Took tea at Mr. Scholfield's but did not see Mr. Wood. Then set off to an election meeting and heard some good speaking; a little monkey not 8 years old smoking a cigar. An attempt to disturb the meeting by a cry of fire and then the engines, but it did not take. Found at the hotel, Ridings, Haslam, Mason, J.

Hodkinson also the Newcastle gentleman.