Rose before seven; after breakfast read the paper and then set out for Dr. Channing's Chapel. Found that he was at Newport, Rhode Island, during the summer and only preaching occasionally during the winter. His colleague Mr. Gannett was gone to an Ordination at Buffalo. Mr. Furniss of Philadelphia was to preach. I set off to hear Mr. Greenwood at King's Chapel. He read a form of prayer and a stranger preached from Matthew v; but a poor sermon. Mr. G. read the service of the Lord's Supper; after kneeling, he partook of the bread and wine, then distributed the elements to the communicants, all was very earnestly done at the altar.

At the door I was glad to see black women permitted. In the afternoon I went to hear a Mr. Lothrop and was again disappointed, but was pleased by a Mr. Young who preached a discourse on "Faith" from John 20 chap. 29 v., mentioned Columbus. Much pleased by a plain and simple address to the Sunday scholars by Mr. Grant. All the three places of worship very nice buildings; the galleries not wide and supported by double pillars, good organ and good singing but not much joined in by the congregation; well attended, but hardly by any poor persons. In the evening went to hear a Mr. Taylor who had been a sailor. His text Exodus v, verse 2.

MONDAY, AUGUST 4TH.

Got up at six and walked through the Mall, and into the State House and returned to breakfast. Met with a plain and respectable Englishman.

Called upon Mr. John Lee, a very respectable old gentleman 76 years old, chatted half an hour and agreed to meet again at three. Returned to the Hotel and ordered a gig for Mount Vernon Church. It came without driver and I had to drive and thread my way through the city. Pa.s.sed over Cambridge 7810 feet long, walked up and down the cemetery which is superior in locality to Pere la Chaise at Paris, but has not the commanding view. In one part a great many beautiful flowers. The monuments have usually the family name and the Christian name on another side of the obelisk; a truly melancholy walk; a beautiful monument to the memory of Spurzheim[24]. I allowed the horse to have his own way back and he brought me at once near the hotel. At three I called upon Mr. Lee and we had a delightful walk to the wharf and stores; a magnificent range of buildings. Saw a contrivance for hauling ships to be repaired; the machinery turned by horses. Pa.s.sed over a long wooden bridge to Bunker Hill; from the Monument[25], partly built, we had a fine view of the town, and returned over another bridge. Invited to take tea with Mr. Lee, but excused myself on account of writing a letter to Mr. B. on which I was engaged all evening. Left it in the care of Mrs.

Livingstone.

TUESDAY, AUGUST 5TH.

Rose before six, got cafe au lait at my request. Found the Lowell stage would soon be here; though a mail coach it goes up and down collecting pa.s.sengers; this enabled me to see more of the town; more than an hour in getting out of it. Took a seat with the driver and though a very hot day found a breeze when in motion; the last fourteen miles, partly a sandy road, we had six horses. Saw three hop plantations; arrived at Lowell at eleven; took my return at two. Went straight to the carpet manufactory but found strangers not admitted; at length I was introduced to the manager, a Scotchman, upon my a.s.suring him that I was in no way connected with such business he took me through the spinning and weaving rooms; a beautiful shearing machine, also the winding effected the same way, the carpets woven by cards as the bed quilts in England; the Brussels from bobbins with weights attached to each thread and tumbling over wires introduced. The rugs done by locks of coloured thread tied into the warp, and then hemp or wadding driven up by the lathe. So extremely hot that I remained in the first shade I came to till near two o'clock. Very many handsome-sized cotton factories, the machinery all turned by the river Merrimack. Work begins at five, then 1/2 hour for breakfast, 3/4 of an hour for dinner, stopping at seven, making 12-3/4 hours each day, and Sat.u.r.days the same; the boys and men well dressed, the girls and women in neat gowns and hoods. The bells larger and of different tones as if for worship. The coach promised for two, did not arrive so I came off in another and got to Boston at half past seven.

Paid for fare both ways 2-1/2 dollars. This has been one of the most disagreeable hot dusty days I have experienced. Found a letter this morning from James Dean.

WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 6TH.

Rose a little before 6, took a gla.s.s of milk, walked to the bath; found it a dirty poor concern, not more than half a yard deep as the tide was out. Called at Mr. Lee's, found his son from England who was kind enough to walk with me in the town. We went off to the Athenaeum which is well stored with books. Saw the English Statutes presented by the British Government; then into the News Room at the Exchange; then to the dry dock, a substantial handsome dock; then to the machine shop where they were making blocks, etc. Saw a large ship the _Columbus_ on the stocks, also the _Const.i.tution_[26] with Jackson's head cut off; then to the prison where they are occupied in masonry, shoe-making, tailoring, brush-making and cabinet work; the prisoners are not suffered to speak; and they eat their food in their cells. Dined with Mr. Lee: delicious lemonade: several dined within, supposed boarders. Set off to Nahant at 3; a beautiful sail among the numerous islands, saw ten seals on a sandbank. Arrived at 4-1/2, a bold rocky coast; the water dashing between the cliffs. A dispute with another steamer, ours turned about to sternward to get a landing by running between, but the other shied off and prevented a collision. Got back half past seven; a beautiful vine (Isabella) only six years planted and many hundred of branches. Also a Black Hamburgh two years planted and bearing. Took leave of this interesting family, particularly the old gentleman, 76 years of age and quite cheerful; the son resides at Birmingham and I may see him again.

On getting to Tremont House I asked for a gla.s.s of milk, but was disappointed, it having been drank up. Got a letter from Mr. Lee to Dr.

Channing; after getting to bed the fire bells began ringing all over the city.

THURSDAY, AUGUST 7TH.

Rose at five; at breakfast, beefsteak but no milk, so I took black tea cooled down, and diluted by iced water. Another fine morning; mounted the roof of the coach, nearly half way, but it was so warm that I went within. The road very dusty but luckily the wind was favourable; the land poor and stony, good fences on each side of the road; several small factories on the way. Pawtucket an active pleasant town. Arrived in Providence at twelve. Went in the coach to the steamboat, returned to Franklin Hotel; set off to inquire for the Cunliffes. Walked up after dinner; learned that Joseph resided 17 miles off but that he was in town; could not meet with him. William lives about five miles off, and I should have gone to see him but it was so excessively hot that I durst not venture. Bought a pair of cotton stockings for 12 cents, put them on immediately; had another wash, found general perspiration excepting my feet which at some time would have been alarming; lay comfortably on the sofa, fell asleep till six; drank two cups of tea and two gla.s.ses of milk with a quant.i.ty of huckleberries. Some interesting Jacksonian discussion introduced by one of the gentlemen to the News Room. Took a pleasant walk, much cooler; generally admitted to have been the hottest day they have had; walked along the river, a great number of boys bathing, jumping head foremost from a raft covered with shingles. Found a steamboat leaves every morning for Newport, swallowed another gla.s.s of milk and went to bed at nine. The cars eight yards long.

FRIDAY, AUGUST 8TH.

Rose soon after six; walked through the market and up to the mill, whence I had a good view of the hill. Walked into a new chapel building for the Academy. Breakfast at half past seven: on further enquiry for William Cunliffe, a man with a small wagon said he was going that way if I could wait half an hour. Whilst waiting at a store, I saw a curious fly trap consisting of two thin boards with hinges, the inside lined with treacle then suddenly pressed together. Got out of the wagon and walked about a mile, found William and his son George; I was known by the latter but not by his father; walked into the house just by, took some cider then walked into the mill; found the machinery good, about 100 pieces turned out weekly. Then went and bathed, most delightfully warm; then dined on salt beef; took a walk over a beautiful ridge, eating huckleberries and blackberries. Got into William's chariot and drove to his daughter living near by. She was gone into the wood but was sent for, and I saw four generations. The daughter very kindly enquired after my mother; they pressed me to stop for tea, but we drove on and just got into Providence before dark. Could not feel easy to leave without seeing Joseph, so fixed to take a gig and George was to go with me. Walked to the Newport steamboat and found it sailing at 7 on the Sunday morning. W. Cunliffe looking better and much l.u.s.tier; seems very well off and happy with his family. Makes 2000 dollars clear profit.

SAt.u.r.dAY, AUGUST 9TH.

Rose at six. Found G. C. waiting with a horse and gig (to go to visit Joseph); set off 1/4 before seven, arrived soon after 10, above 18 miles: some parts sandy. A neat looking mill. I was quite unknown to G.'s wife and sister, but they were very glad to see me; and spoke much of my father. Joseph came soon after, looking old and quiet, but did not know me and seemed less affected. Walked through the mill which I fear is not doing much good; it is leased, and 2/3rds of the machinery is George's; it is not filled with looms and is short of water; also there is the expense of a manager which should be done by the sons. Poor quiet Joseph should have taken his brother's advice, put his money out to interest and with two houses at Providence he might have been comfortable. Five children, all at home. Left at three and called at a cotton mill about three miles off, and found John Makinson, Noah's eldest son, superintendent, married about a year ago to a pleasant sort of girl, that had worked with and known the family; the house well furnished; she set to and baked bread for tea, this caused us to be later than we intended. Was glad to learn that his mother was still living though she had lately had another stroke. Told that John and Ann the two oldest had not behaved so well to their parents, but was pleased to find a change in John's views. The last hour was driven in the dark, thereby reminding me of my late dear father, but the horse was a very good one and arrived safe. Found George's father had been waiting some time, paid 3-1/2 dollars. Bought two other pairs of socks. G. C.'s wife not well, and out of spirits; she seems aware that the concern is not doing well. Saw a snake crossing the road.

SUNDAY, AUGUST 10TH.

Rose before six. Put on my best that I might lose no time in dressing at Newport. A good deal of rain in the night. Taken in a coach to the steamboat. Charged 25 cents for about 100 yards. The weather cleared up and I had a pleasant sail. Found that Dr. Channing resided about five miles from Newport, and was known by everybody. Met the Boston and New York steamer. Stopped at the Eagle Hotel, did not like the old gruff fellow at the hotel, he could not let me have a room but only a bed with five others in the room; this I refused, and was told of another with three beds, but only two likely to be occupied; I was forced to take this, and then set off in quest of an Unitarian chapel. At length one was pointed out, on coming out I enquired the name of the preacher. A stranger from North Carolina; asked if any other Unitarian place of worship; he said this was not Unitarian but Baptist. I said it was Unitarian preaching whatever named. I entered a very neat place and heard part of a sermon by a smart young preacher. This proved Episcopalian; on returning to the Eagle was shown into a very small room with five beds. This I refused and was then shown the other with three.

I asked if there was any Unitarian place of worship. I was told not, and found it to be the case. The doctor will hardly be able to make amends for this miserable place. Just before dinner I met with a gentleman I had seen at Saratoga, and took a walk with him. After dinner we went to hear a Presbyterian who preached from John viii, v. 20; the congregation numerous, and singing was congregational, and as usual there was a large proportion of females. Then walked about a mile to a nice little bay where some boys were bathing; I also could not resist, notwithstanding the sharks; the waves were large and the sh.o.r.e sandy; I had a pleasant bathe. After tea we went to an Episcopalian Church, very full, but with 10 women to one man; should have expected their sweethearts would have been numerous. A young man preached, but not with much ability.

MONDAY, AUGUST 11TH.

Rose at half past five, having slept better than I expected; all the three beds were occupied, and mine was not only small, but resting upon four sticks, and was so built that my head could touch the sloping ceiling from one part. A delightful morning; no letter at the Post Office. Three spitting boxes in the bar 16" 24". Set off to visit Dr.

Channing[27] at Gibson by the Boston stage; surprised to drive up to the house and greatly disappointed to find the Doctor leaving home by the same stage. I had only just time to give him the letter from Mr. Lee and shake hands with him. I took a walk into the garden then stepped into the house, introduced myself to the lady who proved to be Mrs. Channing and sat some time. Then took a walk into the adjoining wood; met with a stout good-looking youth, asked what relation the doctor was to him, and was told his father, and that he had a sister older, who had gone with his father; expected them to stay a fortnight. Saw a curious bee-hive, and walked again into the house; learned that the Dr. was generally in better health, that he had purposed preaching every other Sunday at Portsmouth, but yesterday had found himself unable, which I had seen noted in the Newport paper; he was engaged about six hours daily at his studies and often a good deal tired. Paid to Dr. C. and back, 75 cents.

Left Newport at half past two, fare 5 dollars; at six a dense fog, so that they had to keep sounding and frequently stopped the engines. Took coffee and fish, etc., with about 200 people; walked again some time on deck, still very hazy, so that I might as well go to bed. A gentleman told me of a decent berth at the extreme stern and I soon took possession. In some parts the sea was smooth, then boiling, also large waves.

TUESDAY, AUGUST 12TH.

Awoke several times, and got up at half past five. Found all my clothes quite damp, excepting my trousers which I had placed in my berth, and gave coat, waistcoat and shirt to be dried. Got down my portmanteau and put on other things. Went on deck at six, found we were nearly 30 miles from New York; after some time I went down and found my clothes dry and put on the shirt. On coming up we were pa.s.sing h.e.l.l Gate[28], a very narrow and rocky pa.s.sage. Some good country houses: a large new jail. A fine view of the city and shipping; every now and then a jutting wharf about the length of a ship. Arrived at New York at eight; in walking to the Post Office with Mrs. Channing's letter, I met with Thomas Dean, and got my two letters from Mr. Baker and C. D. Found J. Dean looking thinner. We walked through some auction stores to J. Hulme's son-in-law; he keeps a very large Book-Stall; hence I entered an auction of watches, afterwards of wine, etc.; then to the Exchange, but soon got tired of standing to read the papers. Read over again my letters; devoured two peaches; was charged 3_d._ T. D. kindly invited me to his house; had purchased one for 11,000 dollars; would have given 12 as he considered it worth 13 or 14 thousand dollars. Found a splendid house; a black waiter; dined in the bas.e.m.e.nt storey; silver forks. James drove me out in a phaeton; called for my portmanteau, and then took me to another part of the city; returned to tea, afterwards went to Niblos Gardens.

Had dinner and soon after getting home there was thunder and some rain.

Mrs. D. much as when in England, their little girl much indulged; did not see the infant.

WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 13TH.

Rose at five, set off for Rockaway bathing place. The horse sadly infested with flies which made it bleed in many places. Pa.s.sed a large swamp, and here first met with that troublesome insect the mosquito.

Arrived at 10; a very large hotel containing 186 rooms. Sat down and read with much pleasure the remains of a Bolton Chronicle. Set off to bathe; the sand beautifully white, the breakers very large in consequence of the thunder and wind last night. Could hardly swim but amused myself in standing against the breakers. Troubled with mosquitoes and also a little pain in my ear, which had continued a day or two and prevented me from going on my journey. At half past two music announced dinner, the ladies were accompanied by the gentlemen. Found our places at the entrance into the room being the last comers. A large bill of fare particularly of wines; we had a bottle of claret and I ate a head of corn, and relished it better than before. About 160 persons. After dinner we had a pleasant ramble down the sh.o.r.e talking over old matters at home. Returned to tea, again serenaded by music; then read from English papers; walked in to see them dance: went to bed at half past nine. At noon on the stage coming up one of the horses fell down, overdone with fatigue and heat; got up and fell down several times and died in about half an hour. A limit to their sufferings. Our room No.

155.

THURSDAY, AUGUST 14TH.

Rose at five; a pleasant morning; found the breakers still more than I expected. On the road to Jamaica terribly vexed by mosquitoes; stockings coloured with blood. Several farms for sale; overstocked I guessed with these terrible insects. Got breakfast near Jamaica. Washed and took a little refreshment. Set off in one of the stages and arrived at New York a little before 12; called on R. Crook but did not meet with him. Walked into Broadway was asked 2/7 for cotton gloves; purchased a book of psalm-tunes for 1 dollar. Went to see the great hotel building in Broadway; about 100 men at work, most of them Irish. Went with J. D.

through the register office where an account is kept of all the t.i.tles (to estates?) and mortgages. Rode to dinner in one of the stages, the usual charge 6_d._ but a quant.i.ty of tickets may be purchased at half price. The distance of the stage about two miles; experienced great inconvenience from the excessive itching occasioned by the mosquito bites in the morning. After dinner we set out to see James's horse; found it not well and no wonder, the stable in a cellar; the stalls narrow; a suffocating spot; then walked across what is called East River to see the dry docks; the ships are placed upon a frame, and then by means of an endless chain wound up on to the sh.o.r.e to be repaired. The tides here seldom vary more than three or four feet; on our return found Jackson and his friend Ingham; they stopped two hours laughing and talking all the time.

FRIDAY, AUGUST 15TH.

Got up at half past six; a good night with only one scratch, though a good deal of inflammation most of the morning. After breakfast played some of the psalm tunes. At 9 set off with J. D. to the end of the island, a very pleasant drive and beautiful opening into the Hudson.

Bathed in a rather muddy creek. Pulled an apple on going which we liked, so on returning got a further supply. Some men fishing and others gathering oysters. Got a comfortable dinner; then drove on the other side towards Harlem a fine s.p.a.cious road.

Many trotters in their sulkies and others driving very fast. Appearance of a storm. Only charged 2 dollars for the horse. Played several psalm tunes. Engaged a vehicle to take me to the steam boat in the morning.

Went sadly to bed. Packed up the needful; besides the mosquitoes, there was a little grey insect like a louse that bit very sharply; still itching and swelled from the mosquitoes.

SAt.u.r.dAY, AUGUST 16TH.

Rose 1/4 before 5; found breakfast not out; got coffee; the wagon not coming. James Dean set off to meet the man; the portmanteau was placed on; drove rapidly down just in time. Got on board the _North America_, found many hundreds of pa.s.sengers. Charged to Albany only 50 cents just what I was to pay for being brought to the steamer; an immense steamer, the Captain said 400 or 500 pa.s.sengers; a much smaller number than usual. A quick way of putting out and taking in pa.s.sengers: the boat is lowered, they take a long rope and steer to the landing-place, then haul in towards the steamer which scarcely stops. The rope is attached to the end of the helm, which is 4 or 5 yards wide and gives great power, and the helm is always placed in the fore part of the vessel. Saw some fish (sturgeons) jump a yard out of the water.

A piano and cradle on board. Arrived at Catskill[29] half past three; got some excellent cider and bread and b.u.t.ter. Set off to the mountain 1/4 past 4; a chaise near being upset. Fare 1 dollar said to be 13 miles; then a turnpike gate, and arrived at the summit at 1/4 past 8; having been in four hours in one part alternately hot and in another piercingly cold. A beautiful moonlight night; the Hudson River visible; very cold so that we sat round the fire as if it were Christmas.

SUNDAY, AUGUST 17TH.

Rose at half past six, though having rested very ill. In the middle of the night in consequence of the earache and not sleeping, went to the top of the house, and had a sublime view; we appeared to be in the midst of pine trees; the road looked quite narrow; the valley studded with fields and forests; clouds scattered here and there, and the lake glittering in the distance closing up with mountains; on the other side mountains with pines covered to the summit. During the day I had a delightful walk with a very intelligent Frenchman from Washington, to the falls, which are stupendous but short of water; the rock seems to project more than Niagara; the reason is because the upper stratum is hard and the lower soft and crumbling; then walked to the upper part of the mountain above the hotel, and then had decidedly the most magnificent view I ever saw in my life; besides these wonderful prospects there is a constant delightful breeze, so that if I had time and friends I could pa.s.s a week very well.

I consented to defer going till four, as only another person was going and he was willing to wait. It began to rain and felt cold like our English summers, and it was very well we got the views this morning, as soon after twelve the rain came on, which determined me to take the stage. Paid 3 dollars to Delhi, 65 miles, 1/2 a dollar for tea and bed.

Eleven in the stage and all covered up, but my side. Had some pleasant chat with the people, more particularly an Englishman who had been several years in France. Met again my French friend. Went to bed at 8; heavy rain.

MONDAY, AUGUST 18TH.

Called up at half past one; raining very hard; only five in the stage; by slipping across got a good place; left at half past two. At five at Cairo, next stage. Ascending the mountain I got up with the driver; fair, and a very extensive view up the valley; several houses on the table part of the mountain.