A Member: How would you start a new planting?

Mr. Record: I would plow my ground thoroughly and get it in good shape.

A Member: Wouldn't fertilize the first season?

Mr. Record: I would. I would fertilize my asparagus ground two years.

A Member: I mean in preparing your patch for the new planting?

Mr. Record: I would first plow and harrow and then fertilize. Plow both ways from fourteen to sixteen inches deep and with a fine cultivator loosen up the bottom of furrow and put in the plants and cover with a little earth. Then with the horse keep filling in the furrow. I saw this summer several men with hoes working. That is all right, but it takes a long time, especially with the proposition we are up against about hired help. I can do it just as well with the horse and four times as fast.

The second year you can harrow it any way you want to.

A Member: Common corn land, is that fit for raising asparagus?

Mr. Record: Yes, sir, asparagus will grow on poor ground better than many other vegetables will.

A Member: Will it improve that land by fertilizing with top dressing?

Mr. Record: I think so.

A Member: The heavy land I suppose wouldn't be good for it?

Mr. Record: They raise good asparagus on clay land, but I don't think it will grow as good as on sandy soil. It is not quite so warm; it packs harder and I think more liable to grow crooked.

A Member: I was called out to see a man's asparagus bed. He asked me what kind of ground I thought it must be, and I said a light soil. This man had a heavy clay, and it rained on it, and then the sun came out very hot and the top cooked, and when the little shoots were to come up they turned back. That ground wasn't good for asparagus.

Mr. Record: It should have been harrowed well after that rain.

A Member: You see he couldn't get in there.

A Member: What fertilizer is good? Is bone meal good?

Mr. Record: Any commercial fertilizer is good, I think. Bone meal is good.

Mr. Crawford: Can you raise asparagus successfully in the shade or a partial shade?

Mr. Record: Well, I wouldn't want too much. I have shade on both sides of mine; it is a hedge. I notice it isn't near so good next to the hedge as it is out in the middle of the bed, although shade on both sides protects it from the wind and makes it hotter. The hotter it is, the faster it will grow.

Mr. Crawford: I asked the question because I have a west line shade several years old, trees are willow and box elder. Considerable of the ground is a loss to me, practically so, from that shade.

Mr. Record: I don't think it is a very good place for asparagus.

A Member: I would like to ask if a person on clay soil could use sawdust to work in?

Mr. Record: Horse manure with sawdust, we use a great deal of that, that is, planing mill shavings. That is all right. That will loosen up the ground some, but when it is turned over, of course, it will harden up again if there comes a good hard rain on it.

A Member: How many years have you maintained a bed?

Mr. Record: Why, it will go from twelve to fourteen years, although the place that I am on now, I know that was good for twenty-five or twenty-six. It is practically gone now, but for twenty years it was good. But of late years it won't run over twelve to fifteen.

Mr. Willard: I would like to ask something about changing an old asparagus bed to a new position.

Mr. Record: I wouldn't advise you to use the old roots. You get a bed quicker by using plants that are two years old, and of course there are some plants better than others. I bought my plants in the east. Now they have good plants here, a good many of them, too, but I have never seen anything as good as I got for my last bed. The best way if I was going into it, being a market gardener, would be to go to some neighbor that had a good straight bed and get my own seed. It is very easy to save, and most anyone would give a man all he wanted and charge him nothing.

All he would do would be to gather it up.

Mr. Miller: I would like to ask--I only grow for kitchen garden and I presume most of us are in the same boat--we were told to plow a furrow deeply and fill it with good manure and to plant the roots with the crowns about four inches below the surface of the bed.

Mr Record: Well, I wouldn't fertilize it first. I would, as I say, plow my furrow and loosen up the bottom of it, so that the plants will get a chance to get started. You know if you are plowing it out or shoveling it out it will get down to hard ground. That isn't so good. You loosen up the bottom and put your plants evenly over the ground and put in a little dirt, and if you have it a little barnyard manure.

Mr. Miller: I suppose the idea of putting that in the bottom is that it is so hard to cultivate the manure on the top without doing as you mentioned?

The Running Out of Varieties.

PROF. C. B. WALDRON, HORTICULTURIST, AGRI. COLLEGE, N.D.

There is no fact more familiar to gardeners, orchardists and farmers than the "running out" of varieties, and no question that is more obscure as to its causes. The possibility of deterioration of varieties is noted to a greater or less extent in all field and garden crops, particularly with those that are most highly developed, or which represent the greatest departure from the original species.

It is evident that the cause must lie either in the environment which surrounds the variety or in the selection which it has received, or in a combination of the two. It is held also by some that aside from the influence of soil and climate, and in spite of the most rigid selection, there is an inherent tendency in varieties to depart in a more or less marked degree from the type in which they first appeared. This is particularly true of new varieties that have not yet become established.

Almost before the plant breeder can determine their type they have broken up into so many distinct forms that it is impossible to get any further than the first generation.

This has been noted several times with new varieties of squashes and other cucurbits, and to a similar but less marked degree with tomatoes and some other garden crops. These might well be termed evanescent varieties, and since they never become fixed or find their way into cultivation they are of interest only to the plant breeder.

The influence of environment, particularly soil and climate, upon the size, quality and productiveness of certain garden crops is well known, though just what effect this may have in determining the hereditary character of a variety has never been very well worked out and is still a matter of much doubt. We know, for instance, that there is a tendency for corn grown in the middle or southern lat.i.tude to attain to a larger size and require a longer period for maturity than the same corn grown in the north. This tendency is shown in the first generation, but whether it appears as a constant hereditary character or not is still open to discussion.

There are those who maintain that it is just as practical to develop a dwarf, early variety of corn in the middle lat.i.tudes with careful selection as it is to develop a variety of equal earliness when the planting is done in the north. These maintain that the reason the dwarf, early varieties of corn are not normally developed in the middle lat.i.tudes is because the selection in those places is usually made from the large plants which yield well, instead of from the small, early plants, such as would be naturally selected at the north.

By the same reasoning it is held that the constant growing of any species or variety in the northern lat.i.tudes does not increase hardiness but only enables us to determine which is hardy, thereby enabling us by selection to increase the hardiness of our varieties.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Cat-leaf weeping birch and shrubbery on campus of Agricultural College at Fargo, N.D.]

We must admit that this reasoning has a sound scientific basis, its princ.i.p.al weakness at the present time being that there has not been enough experimental work done to determine how general and constant its application is.

However true it may be as a scientific principle, we have on the other hand the undoubted fact that varieties of certain plants, like the cauliflower, are so strongly modified by environment that the varieties disappear altogether as such unless the breeding plants are grown under very definite conditions. It is well known that cauliflower seed can be grown, for instance, only in certain parts of Europe around the North Sea and to a limited extent in the vicinity of Seattle, and that cauliflower seed from any other region produces plants which not only lose all varietal characteristics but which scarcely resemble cauliflower at all.

As an ill.u.s.tration of this same principle millet affords an excellent example. Grown at the north for a number of years, without change of seed, it becomes short with stiff straw and very large heads, yielding a large quant.i.ty of seed. When grown as far south as Tennessee for a period of five years only, it a.s.sumes a very different character, being tall and leafy with small heads and not very productive of seed. It might be possible by very rigid selection to develop a variety of millet that would tend to be tall and leafy even in the north, but it is doubtful if it would remain so, and the difficulty of keeping it up to type would be too great to make it profitable.

All this is equivalent to saying that there are certain unstable varieties that are so influenced by climate that it is not good practice to try and keep them up to any given standard except when they are grown in regions which naturally develop the type that we are seeking to maintain.

The more striking examples coming under this cla.s.s are cauliflower, millet, onions, tobacco and some of the flowering plants.

A few years ago it was supposed that the running out of varieties of celery was due to a similar cause, that is, to unfavorable environment.

To this was ascribed the pithy quality that characterized some of the varieties. Upon further investigations, however, it was found that this pithy condition came about through carelessness in seed selection. There is a more or less inherent tendency in all celery to become pithy, and unless these plants are carefully excluded, the varieties will run out from that cause.

The different varieties of tomatoes, egg plant and the cucurbits do not seem to be especially affected by soil and climate, and in such instances the varieties can be kept up only by rigid selection, no matter how favorable that environment is under which they are grown.