[Picture: 'The Thicket,' St. Ives. (From a Water Colour by Fraser at 'The Pines.')]

A typical meadow of Cowslip Country, or, as it is sometimes called, 'The Green Country,' is Hemingford Meadow, adjoining St. Ives. It is a level tract of land on the banks of the Ouse, consisting of deposits of alluvium from the overflowings of the river. In summer it is clothed with gay flowers, and in winter, during floods and frosts, it is used as a skating-ground, for St. Ives, being on the border of the Fens, is a famous skating centre. On the opposite side of the meadow is The Thicket, of which I am able to give a lovely picture. This, no doubt, is the scene described in one of Mr. Watts-Dunton's birthday addresses to Tennyson:-

Another birthday breaks: he is with us still.

There through the branches of the glittering trees The birthday sun gilds gra.s.s and flower: the breeze Sends forth methinks a thrill-a conscious thrill That tells yon meadows by the steaming rill- Where, o'er the clover waiting for the bees, The mist shines round the cattle to their knees- 'Another birthday breaks: he is with us still!'

The meadow leads to what the 'oldest rustic inhabitant' calls the 'First Hemingford,' or 'Hemingford Grey.' The imagination of this same 'oldest inhabitant' used to go even beyond the First Hemingford to the Second Hemingford, and then of course came Ultima Thule! The meadow has quite a wide fame among those students of nature who love English gra.s.ses in their endless varieties. Owing to the richness of the soil, the luxuriant growth of these beautiful gra.s.ses is said to be unparalleled in England. For years the two Hemingfords have been the favourite haunt of a group of landscape painters the chief of whom are the brothers Fraser, two of whose water-colours are reproduced in this book.

Nowhere can the bustling activity of haymaking be seen to more advantage than in Cowslip Country, which extends right through Huntingdonshire into East Anglia. It was not, however, near St. Ives, but in another somewhat distant part of Cowslip Country that the gypsies depicted in 'The Coming of Love' took an active part in haymaking. But alas! in these times of mechanical haymaking the lover of local customs can no longer hope to see such a picture as that painted in the now famous gypsy haymaking song which Mr. Watts-Dunton puts into the mouth of Rhona Boswell. Moreover, the prosperous gryengroes depicted by Borrow and by the author of 'The Coming of Love' have now entirely vanished from the scene. The present generation knows them not. But it is impossible for the student of Mr.

Watts-Dunton's poetry to ramble along any part of Cowslip Country, with the fragrance of newly-made hay in his nostrils, without recalling this chant, which I have the kind permission of the editor of the 'Sat.u.r.day Review' (April 19, 1902) to quote:-

Make the kas while the kem says, 'Make it!' {34} Shinin' there on meadow an' grove, Sayin, 'You Romany chies, you take it, Toss it, tumble it, c.o.c.k it, rake it, Singin' the ghyllie the while you shake it To lennor and love!'

Hark, the sharpenin' scythes that tingle!

See they come, the farmin' ryes!

'Leave the dell,' they say, 'an' pingle!

Never a gorgie, married or single, Can toss the kas in dell or dingle Like Romany chies.'

Make the kas while the kem says 'Make it!'

Bees are a-buzzin' in chaw an' clover Stealin' the honey from sperrits o' morn, Shoshus leap in puv an' cover, Doves are a-cooin' like lover to lover, Larks are awake an' a-warblin' over Their kairs in the corn.

Make the kas while the kem says 'Make it!'

Smell the kas on the baval blowin'!

What is that the gorgies say?

Never a garden rose a-glowin', Never a meadow flower a-growin', Can match the smell from a Rington mowin'

Of new made hay.

All along the river reaches 'Cheep, cheep, chee!'-from osier an' sedge; 'Cuckoo, cuckoo!' rings from the beeches; Every chirikel's song beseeches Ryes to larn what lennor teaches From copse an' hedge.

Make the kas while the kem says 'Make it!'

Lennor sets 'em singin' an' pairin', Chirikels all in tree an' gra.s.s, Farmers say, 'Them gals are darin', Sometimes dukkerin', sometimes snarin'; But see their forks at a quick kas-kairin','

Toss the kas!

Make the kas while the kem says, 'Make it!'

Shinin' there on meadow an' grove, Sayin', 'You Romany chies, you take it, Toss it, tumble it, c.o.c.k it, rake it, Singin' the ghyllie the while you shake it To lennor and love!'

Mr. Norris tells us that the old Saxon name of St. Ives was Slepe, and that Oliver Cromwell is said to have resided as a farmer for five years in Slepe Hall, which was pulled down in the late forties. When Mr.

Watts-Dunton's friend, Madox Brown, went down to St. Ives to paint the scenery for his famous picture, 'Oliver Cromwell at St. Ives,' he could present only an imaginary farm.

Perhaps my theory about the advantage of a story-teller being born in a microcosm accounts for that faculty of improvizing stories full of local colour and character which, according to friends of D. G. Rossetti, would keep the poet-painter up half the night, and which was dwelt upon by Mr.

Hake in his account of the origin of 'Aylwin' which I have already given.

I may give here an anecdote connected with Slepe Hall which I have heard Mr. Watts-Dunton tell, and which would certainly make a good nucleus for a short story. It is connected with Slepe Hall, of which Mr. Clement Shorter, in some reminiscences of his published some time ago, writes: "My mother was born at St. Ives, in Huntingdonshire, and still owns by inheritance some freehold cottages built on land once occupied by Slepe Hall, where Oliver Cromwell is supposed to have farmed. At Slepe Hall, a picturesque building, she went to school in girlhood. She remembers Mr.

Watts-Dunton, the author of 'Aylwin,' who was also born at St. Ives, as a pretty little boy then unknown to fame."

[Picture: Slepe Hall: Cromwell's Supposed Residence at St. Ives. (From an Oil Painting at 'The Pines.')]

When the owners of Slepe Hall, the White family, pulled it down, they sold the materials of the building and also the site and grounds in building lots. It was then discovered that the house in which Cromwell was said to have lived was built upon the foundations of a much older house whose cellars remained intact. This was, of course, a tremendous event in the microcosm, and the place became a rendezvous of the schoolboys of the neighbourhood, whose delight from morning to eve was to watch the workmen in their task of demolition. In the early stages of this work, when the upper stories were being demolished, curiosity was centred on the great question as to what secret chamber would be found, whence Oliver Cromwell's ghost, before he was driven into hiding by his terror of the school girls, used to issue, to take his moonlit walks about the grounds, and fish for roach in the old fish ponds. But no such secret chamber could be found. When at length the work had proceeded so far as the foundations, the centre of curiosity was shifted: a treasure was supposed to be hidden there; for, although, as a matter of fact, Cromwell was born at Huntingdon and lived at St. Ives only five years, it was not at Huntingdon, but at the little Nonconformist town of St. Ives, that he was the idol: it was indeed the old story of every hero of the world-

Imposteur a la Mecque et prophete a Medine.

Although in all probability Cromwell never lived at Slepe Hall, but at the Green End Farm at the other end of the town, there was a legend that, before the Ironsides started on a famous expedition, Noll went back to St. Ives and concealed his own plate, and the plate of all his rebel friends, in Slepe Hall cellars. No treasure turned up, but what was found was a collection of old bottles of wine which was at once christened 'Cromwell's wine' by the local humourist of the town, who was also one of its most prosperous inhabitants, and who felt as much interest as the boys in the exploration. The workmen, of course, at once began knocking off the bottles' necks and drinking the wine, and were soon in what may be called a mellow condition; the humourist, being a teetotaler, would not drink, but he insisted on the boys being allowed to take away their share of it in order that they might say in after days that they had drunk Oliver Cromwell's wine and perhaps imbibed some of the Cromwellian spirit and pluck. Consequently the young urchins carried off a few bottles and sat down in a ring under a tree called 'Oliver's Tree,' and knocked off the tops of the bottles and began to drink. The wine turned out to be extremely sweet, thick and sticky, and appears to have been a wine for which Cowslip Land has always been famous-elder wine. Abstemious by temperament and by rearing as Mr. Watts-Dunton was, he could not resist the temptation to drink freely of Cromwell's elder-wine; so freely, in fact, that he has said, 'I was never even excited by drink except once, and that was when I came near to being drunk on Oliver Cromwell's elder-wine.' The wine was probably about a century old.

I should have stated that Mr. Watts-Dunton at the age of eleven or twelve was sent to a school at Cambridge, where he remained for a longer time than is usual. He received there and afterwards at home a somewhat elaborate education, comprising the physical sciences, particularly biology, and also art and music. As has been said in the notice of him in 'Poets and Poetry of the Century,' he is one of the few contemporary poets with a scientific knowledge of music. Owing to his father's pa.s.sion for science, he was specially educated as a naturalist, and this accounts for the innumerable allusions to natural science in his writings, and for his many expressions of a pa.s.sionate interest in the lower animals.

Upon the subject of "the great human fallacy expressed in the phrase, 'the dumb animals,'" Mr. Watts-Dunton has written much, and he has often been eloquent about 'those who have seen through the fallacy, such as St.

Francis of a.s.sisi, Cowper, Burns, Coleridge, and Bisset, the wonderful animal-trainer of Perth of the last century, who, if we are to believe the accounts of him, taught a turtle in six months to fetch and carry like a dog; and having chalked the floor and blackened its claws, could direct it to trace out any given name in the company.'

"Of course," he says, "the 'lower animals' are no more dumb than we are. With them, as with us, there is the same yearning to escape from isolation-to get as close as may be to some other conscious thing-which is a great factor of progress. With them, as with us, each individual tries to warm itself by communication with the others around it by arbitrary signs; with them, as with us, countless accidents through countless years have contributed to determine what these signs and sounds shall be. Those among us who have gone at all underneath conventional thought and conventional expression-those who have penetrated underneath conventional feeling-know that neither thought nor emotion can really be expressed at all. The voice cannot do it, as we see by comparing one language with another. Wordsworth calls language the incarnation of thought. But the mere fact of there being such a Babel of different tongues disproves this. If there were but one universal language, such as speculators dream of, the idea might, at least, be not superficially absurd. Soul cannot communicate with soul save by signs made by the body; and when you can once establish a Lingua Franca between yourself and a 'lower animal,' interchange of feeling and even of thought is as easy with them as it is with men. Nay, with some temperaments and in some moods, the communication is far, far closer. 'When I am a.s.sailed with heavy tribulation,' said Luther, 'I rush out among my pigs rather than remain alone by myself.' And there is no creature that does not at some points sympathize with man. People have laughed at Erskine because every evening after dinner he used to have placed upon the table a vessel full of his pet leeches, upon which he used to lavish his endearments. Neither I nor my companion had a pet pa.s.sion for leeches. Erskine probably knew leeches better than we, for, as the Arabian proverb says, mankind hate only the thing of which they know nothing. Like most dog lovers, we had no special love for cats, but that was clearly from lack of knowledge. 'I wish women would purr when they are pleased,' said Horne Tooke to Rogers once."

Chapter III THE CRITIC IN THE BUD

ONE of my special weaknesses is my delight in forgotten records of the nooks of old England and 'ould Ireland'; I have a propensity for 'dawdling and dandering' among them whenever the occasion arises, and I am yielding to it here.

Besides the interesting history of St. Ives from which I have been compelled to quote so liberally, Mr. Norris has written a series of brochures upon the surrounding villages. One of these, called 'St. Ives and the Printing Press,' has greatly interested me, for it reveals the wealth of the material for topographical literature which in the rural districts lies ready for the picking up. I am tempted to quote from this, for it shows how strong since Cromwell's time the temper which produced Cromwell has remained. During the time when at Cambridge George Dyer and his a.s.sociates, William Frend, Fellow of Jesus, and John Hammond of Fenstanton, Fellow of Queen's, revolted against the discipline and the doctrine of the Church of England, St. Ives was the very place where the Cambridge revolutionists had their books printed. The house whence issued these fulminations was the 'Old House' in Crown Street, now pulled down, which for a time belonged to Mr. Watts-Dunton's father, having remained during all this time a printing office. Mr. Norris gives a very picturesque description of this old printing office at the top of the house, with its pointed roof, 'king posts' and panelling, reminding one of the pictures of the ancient German printing offices. Mr. Norris also tells us that it was at the house adjoining this, the 'Crown Inn,' that William Penn died in 1718, having ridden thither from Huntingdon to hear the lawsuit between himself and the St. Ives churchwardens. According to Mr. Norris, the fountain-head of the Cambridge revolt was the John Hammond above alluded to, who was a friend of Mr. Watts-Dunton's father when the latter was quite a young man under articles for a solicitor. A curious character must have been this long-forgotten rebel, to whom Dyer addressed an ode, with an enormous tail of learned notes showing the eccentric pedantry which was such an infinite source of amus.e.m.e.nt to Lamb, and inspired some of Elia's most delightful touches of humour.

This poem of Dyer's opens thus:-

Though much I love th' aeolian lyre, Whose varying sounds beguil'd my youthful day, And still, as fancy guides, I love to stray In fabled groves, among th' Aonian choir: Yet more on native fields, thro' milder skies, Nature's mysterious harmonies delight: There rests my heart; for let the sun but rise, What is the moon's pale orb that cheer'd the lonesome night?

I cannot leave thee, cla.s.sic ground, Nor bid your labyrinths of song adieu; Yet scenes to me more dear arise to view: And my ear drinks in notes of clearer sound.

No purple Venus round my Hammond's bow'r, No blue-ey'd graces, wanton mirth diffuse, The king of G.o.ds here rains no golden show'r, Nor have these lips e'er sipt Castilian dews.

At the 'Old House' in Crown Street there used to be held in Dyer's time, if not earlier, the meetings of the St. Ives old Union Book Club, and at this very Book Club, Walter Theodore Watts first delivered himself of his boyish ideas about science, literature, and things in general. Filled with juvenile emphasis as it is, I mean to give here nearly in full that boyish utterance. It interests me much, because I seem to see in it adumbrations of many interesting extracts from his works with which I hope to enrich these pages. I cannot let slip the opportunity of taking advantage of a lucky accident-the accident that a member of Mr.

Watts-Dunton's family was able to furnish me with an old yellow-brown newspaper cutting in which the speech is reported. In 1854, 'W. Theodore Watts,' as he is described in the cutting, although too young to be himself a member-if he was not still at school at Cambridge, he had just left it-on account of his father's great local reputation as a man of learning, was invited to the dinner, and called upon to respond to the toast, 'Science.' In the 'Cambridge Chronicle' of that date the proceedings of the dinner were reported, and great prominence was given to the speech of the precocious boy, a speech delivered, as is evident by the allusions to persons present, without a single note, and largely improvized. The subject which he discussed was 'The Influence of Science upon Modern Civilization':-

"It is one of the many beautiful remarks of the great philosophical lawyer, Lord Bacon, that knowledge resembles a tree, which runs straight for some time, and then parts itself into branches. Now, of all the branches of the tree of knowledge, in my opinion, the most hopeful one for humanity is physical science-that branch of the tree which, before the time of the great lawyer, had scarcely begun to bud, and which he, above all men, helped to bring to its present wondrous state of development. I am aware that the a.s.sertion that Lord Bacon is the Father of Physical Science will be considered by many of you as rather heterodox, and fitting to come from a person young and inexperienced as myself. It is heterodox; it clashes, for instance, with the venerable superst.i.tion of 'the wisdom of the ancients'-a superst.i.tion, by the bye, as old in our literature as my friend Mr. Wright's old friend Chaucer, whom we have this moment been talking about, and who, I remember, has this sarcastic verse to the point:-

For out of the olde fieldes, as men saith, Cometh all this new corn from yeare to yeare, And out of olde bookes; in good faith, Cometh all this new science that men lere.

But, gentlemen, if by the wisdom of the ancients we mean their wisdom in matters of Physical Science (as some do), I contend that we simply abuse terms; and that the phrase, whether applied to the ancients more properly, or to our own English ancestors, is a fallacy. It is the error of applying qualities to communities of men which belong only to individuals. There can be no doubt that, of contemporary individuals, the oldest of them has had the greatest experience, and is therefore, or ought therefore, to be the wisest; but with generations of men, surely the reverse of this must be the fact. As Sydney Smith says in his own inimitably droll way, 'Those who came first (our ancestors), are the young people, and have the least experience. Our ancestors up to the Conquest were children in arms-chubby boys in the time of Edward the First; striplings under Elizabeth; men in the reign of Queen Anne; and we only are the white-bearded, silver-headed ancients who have treasured up, and are prepared to profit by, all the experience which human life can supply.

And, gentlemen, I think the wit was right, both as regards our own English ancestors, and the nations of antiquity. What, for instance, was the much-vaunted Astronomy of the ancient Chaldeans-what but the wildest Astrology? What schoolboy has not chuckled over the ingenious old Herodotus's description of the sun being blown out of the heavens? Or again, at old Plutarch's veracious story of the hedgehogs and the grapes? Nay, there are absurdities enough in such great philosophers as Pliny, Plato, and Aristotle, to convince us that the ancients were profoundly ignorant in most matters appertaining to the Physical Sciences.

Gentlemen, I would be the last one in the room to disparage the ancients: my admiration of them amounts simply to reverence. But theirs was essentially the day of poetry and imagination; our day-though there are still poets among us, as Alexander Smith has been proving to us lately-is, as essentially, the day of Science. I might, if I had time, dwell upon another point here-the const.i.tution of the Greek mind (for it is upon Greece I am now especially looking as the soul of antiquity). Was that scientific? Surely not.

The predominant intuition of the Greek mind, as you well know, was beauty, sensuous beauty. This prevailing pa.s.sion for the beautiful exhibits itself in everything they did, and in everything they said: it breathes in their poetry, in their oratory, in their drama, in their architecture, and above all in their marvellous sculpture. The productions of the Greek intellect are pure temples of the beautiful, and, as such, will never fade and decay, for

A thing of beauty is a joy for ever.

Nevertheless, I may as well confess at once that I believe that Science could never have found a home in the Europe of antiquity.

Athens was too imaginative and poetical. Sparta was too warlike and barbarous. Rome was too sensual and gross. It had to wait for the steady Teutonic mind-the plodding brains of modern England and modern Germany. That Homer is the father of poetry-that aeschylus is a wonder of sublimity-that Sophocles and Euripides are profound masters of human pa.s.sion and human pathos-that Aristophanes is an exhaustless fountain of sparkling wit and richest humour-no one in this room, or out of it, is more willing to admit than I am. But is that to blind us to the fact, gentlemen, that Humboldt and Murchison and Lyell are greater natural philosophers than Lucretius or Aristotle?

The Athenian philosopher, Socrates, believed that he was accompanied through life by a spiritual good genius and evil genius. Every right action he did, and every right thought that entered his mind, he attributed to the influence of his good Genius; while every bad thought and action he attributed to his evil Genius. And this was not the mere poetic figment of a poetic brain: it was a living and breathing faith with him. He believed it in his childhood, in his youth, in his manhood, and he believed it on his death-bed, when the deadly hemlock was winding its fold, like the fatal serpent of Laoc.o.o.n, around his giant brain. Well, gentlemen, don't let us laugh at this idea of the grand old Athenian; for it is, after all, a beautiful one, and typical of many great truths. And I have often thought that the idea might be applied to a greater man than Socrates. I mean the great man-mankind. He, too, has his good genius and his evil genius. The former we will designate science, the latter we will call superst.i.tion. For ages upon ages, superst.i.tion has had the sway over him-that evil genius, who blotted out the lamp of truth that G.o.d had implanted within his breast, and subst.i.tuted all manner of blinding errors-errors which have made him play