Next day the weather was as still as ever; the sea a gla.s.sy calm, with a hot glaring sun, and sharks stalking about. "All ill-natured," says honest Livingstone, "and in this I am sorry to feel compelled to join."

There is no sign of ill-nature, however, in the following remarks on African travel, in his Journal for 23d May:

"In traveling in Africa, with the specific object in view of ameliorating the benighted condition of the country, every act is enn.o.bled. In obtaining shelter for the night, and exchanging the customary civilities, purchasing food for one's party and asking the news of the country, and answering in their own polite way any inquiries made respecting the object of the journey, we begin to spread information respecting that people by whose agency their land will yet be made free from the evils that now oppress it. The mere animal pleasure of traveling is very great. The elastic muscles have been exercised. Fresh and healthy blood circulates in the veins, the eye is clear, the step firm, but the day's exertion has been enough to make rest thoroughly enjoyable.

There is always the influence of the remote chances of danger on the mind, either from men or wild beasts, and there is the fellow-feeling drawn out to one's humble, hardy companions, with whom a community of interests and perils renders one friends indeed. The effect of travel on my mind has been to make it more self-reliant, confident of resources and presence of mind. On the body the limbs become wall-knit, the muscles after six months' tramping are as hard as a board, the countenance bronzed as was Adam's, and no dyspepsia.

"In remaining at any spot, it is to work. The sweat of the brow is no longer a curse when one works for G.o.d; it is converted into a blessing. It is a tonic to the system. The charms of repose cannot be known without the excitement of exertion. Most travelers seem taken up with the difficulties of the way, the pleasures of roaming free in the most picturesque localities seem forgotten."

Toward the end of May a breeze at last springs up; many flying-fish come on board, and Livingstone is as usual intent on observation. He observes them fly with great ease a hundred yards, the dolphin pursuing them swiftly, but not so swiftly as they can fly. He notices that the dolphin's bright colors afford a warning to his enemies, and give them a chance of escape. Incessant activity is a law in obtaining food. If the prey could be caught with ease, and no warning were given, the balance would be turned against the feebler animals, and carnivora alone would prevail. The cat shows her shortened tail, and the rattlesnake shakes his tail, to give warning to the prey. The flying-fish has large eyes in proportion to other fish, yet leaps on board very often at night, and kills himself by the concussion.

Livingstone is in great perplexity what to do. At the rate at which his ship is going it would take him fifteen days to reach Bombay, being one day before the breaking of the monsoon, which would be running it too close to danger. He thinks of going to Aden, but that would require him to go first to Maculla for water and provisions. When he tries Aden the wind is against him; so he turns the ship's head to Bombay, though he has water enough for but ten or twelve days on short allowance. "May the Almighty be gracious to us all and help us!"

His Journal is a curious combination of nautical observations and reflections on Africa and his work. We seem to hear him pacing his little deck, and thinking aloud:

"The idea of a colony in Africa, as the term colony is usually understood cannot be entertained. English races cannot compete in manual labor of any kind with the natives, but they can take a leading part in managing the land, improving the quality, in creating the quant.i.ty and extending the varieties of the productions of the soil; and by taking a lead, too, in trade, and in all public matters, the Englishman would be an unmixed advantage to every one below and around him, for he would fill a place which is now practically vacant.

"It is difficult to convey an idea of the country; it is so different from all preconceived notions. The country in many parts rises up to plateaus, slopes up to which are diversified by valleys lined with trees; or here and there rocky bluffs jut out; the plateaus themselves are open prairies covered with gra.s.s dotted over with trees, and watered by numerous streams. Nor are they absolutely flat, their surface is varied by picturesque undulations. Deep gorges and ravines leading down to the lower levels offer special beauties, and landscapes from the edges of the higher plateaus are in their way unequaled. Thence the winding of the Shire may be followed like a silver thread or broad lake with its dark mountain ma.s.s behind.

"I think that the Oxford and Cambridge missionaries have treated me badly in trying to make me the scapegoat of their own blunders and inefficiency.... But I shall try equitably and gently to make allowances for human weakness, though that weakness has caused me much suffering."

On 28th May they had something like a foretaste of the breaking of the monsoon, though happily that event did not yet take place. "At noon a dense cloud came down on us from E. and N.E., and blew a furious gale; tore sails; the ship, as is her wont, rolled broadside into it, and nearly rolled quite over. Everything was hurled hither and thither. It lasted half an hour, then pa.s.sed with a little rain. It was terrible while it lasted. We had calm after it, and sky brightened up. Thank G.o.d for his goodness."

In June there was more wind, but a peculiarity in the construction of the ship impeded her progress through the water. It was still very tedious and trying. Livingstone seems to have been reading books that would take his attention off the very trying weather.

"Lord Ravensworth has been trying for twenty years to reader the lines in Horace--

'Dulce ridentem Lalagen amabo Dulce loquentem.'

And after every conceivable variety of form this is the best:

'The softly speaking Lalage, The softly smiling still for me.'

Pity he had nothing better to engage his powers, for instance the translating of the Bible into one of the languages of the world."

The 10th of June was introduced by a furious squall which tore the fore square-sail to ribbons. A curious sight is seen at sea: "two serpents--said to be often seen on the coast. One dark olive, with light yellow rings round it, and flattened tail; the other lighter in color.

They seem to be salt-water animals."

Next day, a wet scowling morning. Frequent rains, and thunder in the distance. "A poor weak creature. Permit me to lean on an all-powerful arm."

"The squalls usually come up right against the wind, and cast all our sails aback. This makes them so dangerous, active men are required to trim them to the other side. We sighted land a little before 12, the high land of Rutnagerry. I thought of going in, but finding that we have twenty-eight hours' steam, I changed my mind, and pushed on for Bombay, 115 miles distant. We are nearer the land down here than we like, but our N.W. wind has prevented us from making northing. We hope for a little change, and possibly may get in nicely. The good Lord of all help us!

"At 3 P.M. wind and sea high; very hazy. Raining, with a strong head wind; at 8 P.M. a heavy squall came off the land on our east. Wind whistled through the rigging loudly, and we made but little progress steaming. At 11 P.M. a nice breeze sprang up from east and helped us.

About 12 a white patch reported seemed a shoal, but none is marked on the chart. Steered a point more out from land; another white patch marked in middle watch. Sea and wind lower at 3 A.M. At daylight we found ourselves abreast high land at least 500 feet above sea-level.

Wind light, and from east, which enables us to use fore and aft try-sails. A groundswell on, but we are getting along, and feel very thankful to Him who has favored us. Hills not so beautifully colored as those in Africa....

"At 7 P.M. a furious squall came off the land; could scarcely keep the bonnets on our heads. Pitchy dark, except the white curl on the waves, which was phosph.o.r.escent. Seeing that we could not enter the harbor, though we had been near, I stopped the steaming and got up the try-sails, and let Pennell, who has been up thirty hours, get a sleep.

"13_th June_, 1864.--We found that we had come north only about ten miles. We had calms after the squall, and this morning the sea is as smooth as gla.s.s, and a thick haze over the land. A sc.u.m as of dust on face of water. We are, as near as I can guess by the chart, about twenty-five miles from the port of Bombay. Came to Choul Rock at mid-day, and, lat.i.tude agreeing thereto, pushed on N. by W. till we came to light-ship. It was so hazy inland we could see nothing whatever, then took the direction by chart, and steered right into Bombay most thankfully. I mention G.o.d's good providence over me, and beg that He may accept my spared life for his service."

Between the fog and the small size of the Nya.s.sa, her entrance into the harbor was not observed. Among Livingstone's first acts on anchoring was to give handsome gratuities to those who had shared his danger and helped him in his straits. Going ash.o.r.e, he called on the Governor and the police magistrate, but the one was absent and the other busy, and so he returned to the ship unrecognized. The schedules of the custom-house sent to be filled up his first recognition by the authorities of Bombay. He replied that except a few bales of calico and a box of beads he had no merchandise; he was consigned to no one; the seamen had only their clothes, and he did not know a single soul in Bombay. As soon as his arrival was known every attention was showered on him by Sir Bartle Frere, the Governor, and others. They had been looking out for him, but he had eluded their notice. The Governor was residing at Dapuri, and on his invitation Livingstone went there. Stopping at Poona, he called on the missionaries, and riding on an elephant he saw some of the "lions"

of the place. Colonel Stewart, who accompanied him, threw some light on the sea-serpent. "He told us that the yellow sea-serpent which we had seen before reaching Bombay is poisonous; there are two kinds--one dark olive, the other pale lemon color; both have rings of brighter yellow on their tails."

Landing in India was a strange experience, as he tells Sir Thomas Maclear. "To walk among the teeming thousands of all cla.s.ses of population, and see so many things that reading and pictures had made familiar to the mind, was very interesting. The herds of the buffaloes, kept I believe for their milk, invariably made the question glance across the mind, 'Where's your rifle?' Nor could I look at the elephants either without something of the same feeling. Hundreds of bales of cotton were lying on the wharves.".

"20_th June_, 1864--Went with Captain Leith to Poona to visit the Free Church Mission Schools there, under the Rev. Mr. Mitch.e.l.l, Gardner, etc.

A very fine school of 500 boys and young men answered questions very well.... All collected together, and a few ladies and gentlemen for whom I answered questions about Africa. We then went to a girls' school; the girls sang very nicely, then acted a little play. There were different castes in all the schools, and quite mixed. After this we went to College, where young men are preparing for degrees of the University under Dr. Haug and Mr. Wordsworth; then to the Roman Catholic Orphanage, where 200 girls are a.s.sembled, clothed, and fed under a French Lady Superior--dormitory clean and well aired, but many had scrofulous-looking sore eyes; then home to see some friends whom Lady Frere had invited, to save me the trouble of calling on them. Saw Mr.

Cowan's daughter."

"21_st June_, 1864.--... Had a conversation with the Governor after breakfast about the slaving going on toward the Persian Gulf. His idea is that they are now only beginning to put a stop to slavery--they did not know of it previously.... The merchants of Bombay have got the whole of the trade of East Africa thrown on their hands, and would, it is thought, engage in an effort to establish commerce on the coast. The present Sultan is, for an Arab, likely to do a good deal. He asked if I would undertake to be consul at a settlement, but I think I have not experience enough for a position of that kind among Europeans."

On returning to Bombay, he saw the missionary inst.i.tutions of the Scotch Established and Free Churches, and arranged with Dr. Wilson of the latter mission to take his two boys, Chuma and Wikatani. He arranged also that the "Lady Nya.s.sa," which he had not yet sold, should be taken care of, and borrowing 133, 10s. for the pa.s.sage-money of himself and John Reid, one of his men, embarked for old England.

At Aden considerable rain had fallen lately; he observed that there was much more vegetation than when he was there before, and it occurred to him that at the time of the Exodus the same effects probably followed the storms of rain, lightning, and hail in Egypt. Egypt was very far from green, so that Dr. Stanley must have visited it at another part of the year. At Alexandria, when he went on board the "Ripon," he found the Maharaja Dhuleep Singh and his young Princess--the girl he had fancied and married from an English Egyptian school. Paris is reached on the 21st July; a day is spent in resting; and on the evening of the 23d he reaches Charing Cross, and is regaled with what, after nearly eight years' absence, must have been true music--the roar of the mighty Babylon.

The desponding views of his work which we find in such entries in his Journal as that of 20th May must not be held to express his deliberate mind. It must not be thought that he had thrown aside the motto which had helped him as much as it had helped his royal countryman, Robert Bruce--"Try again." He had still some arrows in his quiver. And his short visit to Bombay was a source of considerable encouragement. The merchants there, who had the East African trade in their hands, encouraged him to hope that a settlement for honest traffic might be established to the north of the region over which the Portuguese claimed authority. As Livingstone moved homeward he was revolving two projects.

The first was to expose the atrocious slave-trading of the Portuguese, which had not only made all his labor fruitless, but had used his very discoveries as channels for spreading fresh misery over Africa. The thought warmed his blood, and he felt like a Highlander with his hand on his claymore. The second project was to find means for a new settlement at the head of the Rovuma, or somewhere else beyond the Portuguese lines, which he would return in the end of the year to establish.

Writing a short book might help to accomplish both these projects. As yet, the idea of finding the sources of the Nile was not in his mind. It was at the earnest request of others that he undertook the work that cost him so many years of suffering, and at last his life.

CHAPTER XVII.

SECOND VISIT HOME.

A.D. 1864-65.

Dr. Livingstone and Sir R. Murchison--At Lady Palmerston's reception--at other places in London--Sad news of his son Robert--His early death--Dr.

Livingstone goes to Scotland--Pays visits--Consultation with Professor Syme as to operation--Visit to Duke of Argyll--to Ulva--He meets Dr.

Duff--At launch of a Turkish frigate--At Hamilton--Goes to Bath to British a.s.sociation--Delivers an Address--Dr. Colenso--At funeral of Captain Speke--Bath speech offends the Portuguese--Charges of Lacerda--He visits Mr. and Mrs. Webb-at Newstead--Their great hospitality--The Livingstone room--He spends eight months there writing his book--He regains elasticity and playfulness--His book--Charles Livingstone's share--He uses his influence for Dr. Kirk--Delivers a lecture At Mansfield--Proposal made to him by Sir R. Murchison to return to Africa--Letter from Sir Roderick--His reply--He will not cease to be a missionary--Letter to Mr. James Young--Overtures from Foreign Office--Livingstone displeased--At dinner of Royal Academy--His speech not reported--President Lincoln's a.s.sa.s.sination--Examination by Committee of House of Commons--His opinion on the capacity of the negro--He goes down to Scotland--_Tom Brown's School Days_--His mother very ill--She rallies--He goes to Oxford--Hears of his mother's death--Returns--He attends examination of Oswell's school--His speech--Goes to London, preparing to leave--Parts from Mr. and Mrs.

Webb--Stays with Dr. and Mrs. Hamilton--Last days in England.

On reaching London, Dr. Livingstone took tip his quarters at the Tavistock Hotel; but he had hardly swallowed dinner, when he was off to call on Sir Roderick and Lady Murchison.

"Sir Roderick took me off with him, just as I was, to Lady Palmerston's reception. My lady very gracious--gave me tea herself. Lord Palmerston looking well. Had two conversations with him about slave-trade. Sir Roderick says that he is more intent on maintaining his policy on that than on any other thing. And so is she--wonderfully fine, matronly lady.

Her daughters are grown up. Lady Shaftesbury like her mother in beauty and grace. Saw and spoke to Sir Charles Wood about India, 'his Eastern Empire,' as he laughingly called it. Spoke to Duke and d.u.c.h.ess of Somerset. All say very polite things, and all wonderfully considerate."

An invitation to dine with Lord Palmerston on the 29th detained him for a few days from going down to Scotland.

"_Monday,_ 25_th July_.--Went to Foreign Office.... Got a dress suit at Nicol & Co.'s, and dined with Lord and Lady Dunmore. Very clever and intelligent man, and lady very sprightly. Thence to d.u.c.h.ess of Wellington's reception. A grand company--magnificent rooms. Met Lord and Lady Colchester, Mrs. F. Peel, Lady Emily Peel, Lady de Redcliffe, Lord Broughton, Lord Houghton, and many more whose names escaped me. Ladies wonderfully beautiful--rich and rare were the gems they wore.

"26_th July.--Go_ to Wimbledon with Mr. Murray, and see Sir Bartle Frere's children.... See Lord Russell--his manner is very cold, as all the Russells are. Saw Mr. Layard too; he is warm and frank. Received an invitation from the Lord Mayor to dine with Her Majesty's Ministers.

"27_th July_.--Hear the sad news that Robert is In the American army....

Went to Lord Mayor Lawrence's to dinner...."

With reference to the "sad news" of Robert, which made his father very heavy-hearted during the first part of his visit home, it is right to state a few particulars, as the painful subject found its way into print, and was not always recorded accurately. Robert had some promising qualities, and those who knew and understood him had good hopes of his turning out well. But he was extremely restless, as if, to use Livingstone's phrase, he had got "a deal of the vagabond nature from his father;" and school-life was very irksome to him. With the view of joining his father, he was sent to Natal, but he found no opportunity of getting thence to the Zambesi. Leaving Natal, he found his way to America, and at Boston he enlisted in the Federal army. The service was as hot as could be. In one battle, two men were killed close to him by shrapnel sh.e.l.l, a rifle bullet pa.s.sed close to his head, and killed a man behind him; other two were wounded close by him. His letters to his sister expressed his regret at the course of his life, and confessed that his troubles were due to his disobedience. So far was he from desiring to trade on his father's name, that in enlisting he a.s.sumed another, nor did any one in the army know whose son it was that was fighting for the freedom of the slave. Meeting the risks of battle with dauntless courage, he purposely abstained, even in the heat of a charge, from destroying life. Not long after, Dr. Livingstone learned that in one of his battles he was wounded and taken prisoner; then came a letter from a hospital, in which he again expressed his intense desire to travel. But his career had come to its close. He died in his nineteenth year. His body lies in the great national cemetery of Gettysburg, in Pennsylvania, in opening which Lincoln uttered one of those speeches that made his name dear to Livingstone. Whatever degree of comfort or hope his father might derive from Robert's last letters, he felt saddened by his unsatisfactory career. Writing to his friend Moore (5th August) he says: "I hope your eldest son will do well in the distant land to which he has gone. My son is in the Federal army in America, and no comfort. The secret ballast is often applied by a kind hand above, when to outsiders we appear to be sailing gloriously with the wind."

"29_th July_.--Called on Mr. Gladstone; he was very affable--spoke about the Mission, and asked if I had told Lord Russell about it.... Visited Lady Franklin and Miss Cracroft, her niece.... Dined with Lord and Lady Palmerston, Lady Shaftesbury, and Lady Victoria Ashley, the Portuguese Minister, Count d'Azeglio (Sardinian Minister), Mr.