TREBLE CROCHET (t.c.) and LONG TREBLE (long t.c.) are worked in the same manner; in the former the thread is put _twice_, in the latter _three times_, round the hook, before inserting it into the st.i.tch.

TO JOIN LEAVES.--When one part of a leaf, flower, etc., is to be joined to another, drop the loop from your hook, which insert in the place to be joined; draw the loop through and continue working.

TO Pa.s.s FROM ONE ROUND TO ANOTHER WITHOUT BREAKING THE THREAD.--In working mats and many similar articles this is very desirable. Having finished one round, see whether a s.c., d.c., or t.c. st.i.tch begins the next; for s.c. make one chain, for d.c. three, for t.c. four; slip the needle out, and twist the chain, then continue working. This twisted chain will have all the appearance of a d.c. or t.c. st.i.tch.

Should the round not begin exactly in the same place, slip-st.i.tch to the part where it commences, as it will seldom be more than a few st.i.tches in advance.

SQUARE CROCHET is a term often used, and generally understood, as the engraved patterns are mostly in it. Lest, however, any of our readers should not be familiar with the name, we will explain it. The squares are either open or close. An open square consists of one d.c., two ch.--missing two on the line beneath, before making the next st.i.tch. A close square has three successive d.c. Thus, any given number of close squares, followed by an open, will have so many times three d.c., and _one over_; and any foundation made for a pattern to be worked in square crochet will have a number of chains divisible by three, leaving one over.

TO CONTRACT AN EDGE.--In forming leaves and many other things, this is very useful. It can be done in d.c., t.c., or long t.c. Having twisted the thread round the needle as often as the st.i.tch may require, insert it in the work, and half-do a st.i.tch. Instead of completing it, again twist the thread round, until the same number of loops are on, and work a st.i.tch completely. Thus, for two st.i.tches taken in the work, there is only one head. This being successively repeated materially contracts an edge.

TO JOIN ON A THREAD.--Avoid joins in open work as much as possible. In close work, whether d.c. or s.c., they will not be perceived. Finish the st.i.tch by drawing the new thread through, allowing a couple of inches for both ends, which you hold in.

TO WORK WITH SEVERAL COLOURS.--Hold the threads not in use along the edge of the work, and work them in. When the colour is to be changed, begin the st.i.tch with the old colour, and complete it with the new, which continue to work with, holding the other in. If only one st.i.tch of a colour is to be used, you finish one st.i.tch, and begin the next with it; then change. Colours are seldom intermixed, except in solid work, such as the ends of purses, mats worked over cord, and the like.

TO WORK OVER CORD.--Hold it in the left hand, with the work, and work round it, as you would if it were merely an end of thread. The st.i.tches must, however, be sufficiently close to cover it entirely.

TO WORK WITH BEADS.--Beads must be first threaded on the silk, or other material, and then dropped, according to the pattern, on what is usually thought the wrong side of the work. This side presents a more even appearance than the other. It follows that when bead purses are worked from an engraving, they are worked the reverse of the usual way--namely, from right to left.

THE MARKS USED IN CROCHET RECEIPTS.--These are very simple when understood. They are printers' marks--asterisks, crosses, daggers, and sometimes one or two others. They are used to mark repet.i.tions, and save s.p.a.ce. The princ.i.p.al thing to observe is, that in every row or round, if _one_ of any kind is used, a second, _similar_ one, is sure to be found; and that the repet.i.tion occurs between the two, however far distant apart. Suppose a row of a pattern to be written thus:--X 2 d.c., 4 ch., miss 4, * 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, * three times, 5 d.c., X, * twice; it would, at full length, be--2 d.c., 4 ch., miss 4, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 2 d.c., 4 ch., miss 4, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c. It will be seen that one repet.i.tion often occurs _within another_, as in the st.i.tches between the asterisks. Another mode of shortening receipts can be used only where a row has a centre both sides of which correspond; the latter being the same as the former, worked _backwards_. Then the letters _b, a_, are used, to mark that in the latter part of the row you reverse the instructions. _b_, 7 d.c., 3 ch., miss 2, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, _a_, 1 d.c. (the centre st.i.tch), would be, 7 d.c., 3 ch., miss 2, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, 1 d.c., miss 1, 2 ch., 1 d.c., miss 2, 3 ch., 7 d.c. These letters and the printers' marks are equally used in knitting. It is easy to see how much s.p.a.ce is gained by the use of these abbreviations, a knowledge of which is easily acquired. Probably many of our friends are already familiar with the substance of this preliminary lesson; but as daily experience convinces us that many are still ignorant of the principles of crochet, we trust the good-nature of the adepts will lead them to excuse this occupation of a page, in consideration of the benefit it will be to their less fortunate friends.

One word on the implement termed a crochet-hook. It should not be sharp or pointed, either in the point or barb, but smooth, and quite free from any angularity that can catch the silk. Cheap and common crochet-hooks are in the end the dearest, as they break cotton, ravel silk, wear out the patience, and p.r.i.c.k the finger. They should be of the best steel, highly polished, and firmly fixed in ivory handles.

Those we use have been made at our recommendation, and have the _size_ engraved on every handle. This saves the tiresome and uncertain reference to a gauge. These hooks are termed "_tapered, indented_"

crochet-hooks.

ANTI-MACa.s.sAR.

MATERIALS.--Four reels of Brooks' Great Exhibition Prize Goat's-head Crochet Cotton, No. 8, 1 ditto, No. 4, 4 ounces of turquoise blue beads.

The anti-maca.s.sar of which we give a representation in the engraving is intended to fit the top of a library chair. One half only is seen.

A similar piece of crochet is to be made and sewed to it, the two forming a sort of bag, which is slipped over the back of the chair. It is a great improvement on the old-fashioned anti-maca.s.sar, as it is not liable to be displaced. A border is added to the front of it, the pattern of which is made in beads (in the style of the ba.s.sinet quilt, page 24). This, from its weight, serves to keep the anti-maca.s.sar from shifting, and is finished with a handsome fringe.

Spotted muslin, or any similar material, may be used for the back of the anti-maca.s.sar, instead of crochet, for those who would prefer saving themselves the trouble of working the second piece.

[Ill.u.s.tration: ANTI-MACa.s.sAR.]

The upper part may be worked from the engraving, being done in square crochet, for which we have already given full directions. Make a chain of 277 st.i.tches. Do one row of double crochet; then work from the engraving, beginning with that row which is in open square crochet, except the first and last squares, which are close. When you come to the diminished part, begin the row thus:--Miss 1, slip on the 2nd, single crochet on the 3rd, double crochet on the 4th. Reverse the process at the end of the row. This diminishes the row one square at each end. Some few rows narrow the squares at each end. In that case miss 4 at the beginning and end, instead of one. Work in the ends as you go on. This part of the anti-maca.s.sar uses three reels of cotton.

Thread the blue beads on the 4th, No. 8 reel, and work the borders.

Begin by a row of single crochet on the _wrong_ side, on the foundation chain. All the subsequent rows are done on the same side.

Begin every row with two plain st.i.tches, beside those in the pattern.

1st pattern row: X 2 plain, 2 beads, 5 plain, 2 beads, 14 plain X repeat to the end in this and every future row.

2nd: X 1 plain, 1 bead, 2 plain, 3 beads, 1 plain, 3 beads, 14 plain X.

3rd: X 1 plain, 1 bead, 2 plain, 1 bead, 2 plain, 3 beads, 15 plain X.

4th: X 2 plain, 7 beads, 1 plain, 1 bead, 14 plain X.

5th: X 4 plain, 4 beads, 3 plain, 1 bead, 13 plain X.

6th: X 4 plain, 4 beads, 4 plain, 1 bead, 12 plain X.

7th: X 3 plain, 6 beads, 3 plain, 1 bead, 5 plain, 4 beads, 3 plain X.

8th: X 2 plain, 3 beads, 2 plain, 3 beads, 2 plain, 1 bead, 6 plain, 5 beads, 1 plain X.

9th: X 1 plain, 3 beads, 4 plain, 3 beads, 1 plain, 1 bead, 7 plain, 5 beads X.

10th: X 1 plain, 2 beads, 6 plain, 3 beads, 8 plain, 3 beads, 2 plain X.

11th: X 10 plain, 3 beads, 7 plain, 1 bead, 1 plain, 1 bead, 2 plain X.

12th: X 9 plain, 1 bead, 1 plain, 3 beads, 1 plain, 3 beads, 4 plain, 1 bead, 2 plain X.

13th: X 8 plain, 1 bead, 3 plain, 3 beads, 3 plain, 1 bead, 2 plain, 2 beads, 2 plain X.

14th: X 8 plain, 1 bead, 4 plain, 3 beads, 5 plain, 2 beads, 2 plain, X.

15th: X 8 plain, 1 bead, 3 plain, 1 bead, 1 plain, 3 beads, 3 plain, 3 beads, 2 plain X.

16th: X 9 plain, 3 beads, 3 plain, 3 beads, 2 plain, 3 beads, 2 plain X.

17th: X 16 plain, 6 beads, 3 plain, X.

18th: X 6 plain, 1 bead, 10 plain, 5 beads, 3 plain X.

19th: X 6 plain, 3 beads, 8 plain, 5 beads, 3 plain X.

20th: X 6 plain, 6 beads, 3 plain, 7 beads, 3 plain X.

21st: X 6 plain, 5 beads, 2 plain, 10 beads, 2 plain X.

ANTI-MACa.s.sAR.

MATERIALS.--Brooks' Great Exhibition Prize Goat's-head Crochet Cotton, No. 24.

This anti-maca.s.sar must be begun on the line of d.c., forming one end.

Make a chain of the required number of st.i.tches, including the borders, and work the whole anti-maca.s.sar, except the border which is at the one end, below the foundation chain, which must be done last of all. Or the centre can be done entirely first, and the border worked all round afterwards, increasing at the corners. We, however, recommend the former method.