The Art of Confectionary.

by Edward Lambert.

_Of the Manner of clarifying Sugar, and the different Ways of boiling it._

Since the Ground-work of the Confectioner's Art depends on the Knowledge of clarifying and boiling Sugars, I shall here distinctly set them down, that the several Terms hereafter mentioned may the more easily be understood; which, when thoroughly comprehended, will prevent the unnecessary Repet.i.tions of them, which would enc.u.mber the Work and confound the Pract.i.tioner, were they to be explained in every Article, as the Variety of the Matter should require: I shall therefore, through the whole Treatise, stick to these Denominations of the several Degrees of boiling Sugar, _viz._ Clarifying, Smooth, Blown, Feather'd, Cracked, and Carmel.

_To Clarify Sugar._

Break into your preserving Pan the White of one Egg, put in four Quarts of Water, beat it up to a Froth with a Whisk, then put in twelve Pounds of Sugar, mixed together, and set it over the Fire; when it boils up, put in a little cold Water, which will cause it to sink; let it rise again, then put in a little more Water; so do for four or five times, till the Sc.u.m appears thick on the Top; then remove it from the Fire and let it settle; then take off the Sc.u.m, and pa.s.s it through your straining Bag.

_Note_, If the Sugar doth not appear very fine, you must boil it again before you strain it; otherwise in boiling it to an Height, it will rise over the Pan, and give the Artist a great deal of Trouble.

_The boiling Sugar to the Degree called Smooth._

When your Sugar is thus clarified, put what Quant.i.ty you shall have Occasion for over the Fire, to boil smooth, the which you will prove by dipping your Sc.u.mmer into the Sugar; and then touching it with your Fore-finger and Thumb, in opening them a little you will see a small Thread drawn betwixt, which immediately breaks, and remains in a Drop on your Thumb; thus it is a little smooth; then boiling it more, it will draw into a larger String; then it is become very smooth.

_The Blown Sugar._

Boil your Sugar yet longer than the former, and try it thus, _viz._ Dip in your Sc.u.mmer, and take it out, shaking off what Sugar you can into the Pan, and then blow with your Mouth strongly through the Holes, and if certain Bubbles or Bladders blow through, it is boiled to the Degree called Blown.

_The Feathered Sugar_,

Is a higher Degree of boiling Sugar, which is to be proved by dipping the Sc.u.mmer when it hath boiled somewhat longer; shake it first over the Pan, then giving it a sudden Flurt behind you; if it be enough, the Sugar will fly off like Feathers.

_The Crackled Boiling_,

Is proved by letting it boil somewhat longer; and then dipping a Stick into the Sugar, which immediately remove into a Pot of cold Water standing by you for that Purpose, drawing off the Sugar that cleaves to the Stick, and if it becomes hard, and will snap in the Water, it is enough; if not, you must boil it till it comes to that Degree.

_Note_, Your Water must be always very cold, or it will deceive you.

_The Carmel Sugar_,

Is known by boiling yet longer, and is proved by dipping a Stick, as aforesaid, first in the Sugar, and then in the Water: But this you must observe, when it comes to the Carmel Height, it will snap like Gla.s.s the Moment it touches the cold Water, which is the highest and last Degree of boiling Sugar.

_Note_, There is this to be observed, that your Fire be not very fierce when you boil this, lest flaming up the Sides of your Pan, it should occasion the Sugar to burn, and so discolour it.

_To preserve Seville-Oranges Liquid._

Take the best Seville-Oranges, and pare them very neatly, put them into Salt and Water for about two Hours; then boil them very tender till a Pin will easily go into them; then drain them well from the Water, and put them into your preserving Pan, putting as much clarified Sugar to them as will cover them, laying some Trencher or Plate on them to keep them down; then set them over a Fire, and by Degrees heat them till they boil; then let them have a quick boil till the Sugar comes all over them in a Froth; then set them by till next Day, when you must drain the Syrup from them, and boil it till it becomes very smooth, adding some more clarified Sugar; put it upon the Oranges, and give them a Boil, then set them by till next Day, when you must do as the Day before. The fourth Day drain them and strain your Syrup through a Bag, and boil it till it becomes very smooth; then take some other clarified Sugar, boil it till it blows very strong, and take some Jelly of Pippins drawn from the Pippins, as I shall immediately express, with the Juice of some other Oranges: As for Example, if you have six Oranges, after they are preserved as above directed, take two Pounds of clarified Sugar, boil it to blow very strong; then one Pint and half of Pippin Jelly, and the Juice of four or five Oranges, boil all together; then put in the Syrup that has been strained and boiled to be very smooth, and give all a Boil; then put your Oranges into your Pots or Gla.s.ses, and fill them up with the above made Jelly; when cold cover them, and set them by for Use.

_Note_, You must be sure in all your Boilings to clear away the Sc.u.m, otherwise you will endanger their Working: And if you find they will swim above your Jelly, you must bind them down with a Sprig of a clean Whisk.

_To draw a Jelly from Pippins._

Take the fairest and firmest Pippins, pour them into fair Water, as much as will cover them; set them over a quick Fire, and boil them to Mash; then put them on a Sieve over an earthen Pan, and press out all the Jelly, which Jelly strain through a Bag, and use as directed in the Oranges before mentioned, and such others as shall be hereafter described.

_To make Orange Marmalade._

Take six Oranges, grate two of the Rinds of them upon a Grater, then cut them all, and pick out the Flesh from the Skins and Seeds; put to it the grated Rind, and about half a Pint of Pippin Jelly; take the same Weight of Sugar as you have of this Meat so mingled; boil your Sugar till it blows very strong; then put in the Meat, and boil all very quick till it becomes a Jelly, which you will find by dipping the Sc.u.mmer, and holding it up to drain; if it be a Jelly, it will break from the Sc.u.mmer in Flakes; if not, it will run off in little Streams: When it is a good Jelly, put it into your Gla.s.ses or Pots.

_Note_, If you find this Composition too sweet, you may in the boiling add more Juice of Oranges; the different Quickness they have, makes it difficult to prescribe.

_To preserve Oranges with a Marmalade in them._

Pare your Oranges as before, make a round Hole in the Bottom, where the Stalk grew, the Bigness of a Shilling; take out the Meat, and put them into Salt and Water for two or three Hours; then boil them very tender, then put them into clarified Sugar, give them a boil the next Day, drain the Syrup and boil it till it becomes smooth; put in your Oranges and give them a good boil. When a little cool, drain them and fill them with a Marmalade made as before directed, putting in the round Piece you cut out; with the Syrup, some other Sugar, and Pippin Juice, make a Jelly, and fill up your Pots or Gla.s.ses.

_To make a Compote of Oranges._

Cut the Rind off your Oranges into Ribs, leaving part of the Rind on; cut them into eight Quarters, throw them into boiling Water; when a Pin will easily go through the Rind, drain and put them into boiling Water, when a Pin will easily go through the Rind, drain and put them into as much Sugar boiled, till it becomes smooth, as will cover them, give all a Boil together, adding some Juice of Oranges to what Sharpness you please; you may put a little Pippin Jelly into the Boiling, if you please; when cold serve them to Table on Plates.

_To make Orange-Rings and f.a.ggots._

Pare your Oranges as thin, and as narrow as you can, put the Parings into Water, whilst you prepare the Rings, which are done by cutting the Oranges so pared into as many Rings as you please; then cut out the Meat from the Inside; then put the Rings and f.a.ggots into boiling Water; boil them till tender; then put them into clarified Sugar, as much as will cover them; set them by till next Day; then boil all together, and set them by till the Day after; then drain the Syrup, and boil it till very smooth; then return your Oranges into it, and give all a Boil; the next Day boil the Syrup till it rises up to almost the Top of your Pan; then return the Oranges into it, and give it a Boil; then put them by in some Pot to be candied, as hereafter mentioned, whenever you shall have Occasion.

_To candy Orange, Lemon, and Citron._

Drain what Quant.i.ty you will candy clean from the Syrup, and wash it in luke-warm Water, and lay it on a Sieve to drain; then take as much clarified Sugar as you think will cover what you will candy, boil it till it blows very strong, then put in your Rings, and boil them till it blows again; then take it from the Fire, and let it cool a little; then with the back of a Spoon rub the Sugar against the Inside of your Pan till you see the Sugar becomes white; then with a Fork take out the Rings one by one, lay them on a Wire-grate to drain, then put in your f.a.ggots, and boil them as before directed; then rub the Sugar, and take them up in Bunches, having some-body to cut them with a Pair of Scizers to what Bigness you please, laying them on your Wire to drain.

_Note_, Thus may you candy all Sorts of Oranges and Lemon-Peals or Chips.

Lemon Rings and f.a.ggots are done the same Way, with this Distinction only, that the Lemons ought to be pared twice over, that the Ring may be the whiter; so will you have two Sorts of f.a.ggots: But you must be sure to keep the outward Rind from the other, else it will discolour them.

_To make Orange-Cakes._

Take six Sevil-Oranges, grate the Rinds of two of them, and then cut off the Rinds of all six to the very Juice; boil them in Water till very tender; then squeeze out all the Water you can, and beat them to a Paste in a Marble-Morter; then rub it through a Sieve of Hair; what will not easily rub through must be beat again till all is got through; then cut to Pieces the Insides of the Oranges, and rub as much of that through as you possibly can; then boil about six or eight Pippins in as much Water as will almost cover them, and boil them to a Paste, and rub it through a Sieve to the rest; then put all into a Pan together, and give a thorough Heat, till it is well mingled; then to every Pound of this Paste take one Pound and a Quarter of Loaf-sugar; clarify the Sugar, and boil it to the Crick; then put in your Paste and the grated Peal, and stir it all together over a slow Fire till it is well mixed, and the Sugar all melted; then with a Spoon fill your round Tin-Moulds as fast as you can; when cold, draw off your Moulds, and set them in a warm Stove to dry; when dry on the Tops, turn them on Sieves to dry on the other Side; and when quite dry, box them up.

_Lemon-Cakes._

Take six thick-rinded Lemons, grate two of them, then pare off all the yellow Peal, and strip the White to the Juice, which White boil till tender, and make a Paste exactly as above.