WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS[15]

=Albatross.= A dress fabric of worsted warp and worsted filling; of open texture and fancy weaves.

=Alpaca.= A thin fabric of close texture made from the fibers of an animal of the llama species; mixed with silk or with cotton. It is usually woven with cotton warp and mohair filling. Imitations of all cotton are manufactured and sold under this name.

=Corded Alpaca.= Corded weave, lengthwise of the piece, cotton warp alpaca filling; one of the first products of the American loom.

=Angora.= The fiber of this goat is commercially known as mohair. The skins are largely used in the making of children's m.u.f.fs, for the scalps of dolls, and for tr.i.m.m.i.n.g coats and capes. Carriage robes also claim a good share of the skins; the hair, being nearly one foot in length, makes them beautiful and serviceable. The fiber enters largely into that cla.s.s of goods known as Astrakhan, Crepons, Plushes, Brilliantines, Zibelines, fine Cashmeres, and many other fabrics usually sold as all wool or worsted, according to the mode of preparing the stock before spinning into yarn. It is found in the finest of silk and worsted fabrics for ladies' wear, also in linings, mittens, and fine cloaking and overcoating. It is noted especially for its water repelling qualities, its beauty, and high l.u.s.ter; and not so much for its warmth-retaining properties, for which wool stands unequalled.

=Astrakhan.= A fabric manufactured from Astrakhan fiber; of a curly, wavy surface applied to a curly faced cloth resembling Astrakhan fleece.

=Bandanna.= From the Indian _bandanna_, to bind or tie. In dyeing, the cloth is tied in knots when dipped, and thus has a clouded effect.

=Beaver.= A heavy cloth manufactured of fine wool, with a finish on the surface to resemble the fur of the animal by that name.

=Fur Beaver.= Similar in many respects to Beaver, but having on its surface a long, dense nap, in imitation of the fur of the Beaver. Used for overcoats, cloaks, and capes.

=Bedford Cord.= A fine woolen fabric, with fine recesses running with the piece, and extensively used for ladies' dress goods. An all wool cloth of close texture for gentlemen's clothing. The recesses may also be made with fine cotton yarn hidden in the wool filling.

=Beige.= Cloth of undyed or natural wool. The name is the French word for "natural."

=Bindings.= A species of narrow fabric of silk, worsted or cotton, for binding the edges of garments, the bottom of dress skirts, etc.

=Bombazine.= A twilled fabric of which the warp is silk and the filling is worsted.

=Bottany.= A term applied to worsted yarns made from bottany wool. It is considered the finest of all worsted yarns, and is used for fine fabrics of close texture.

=Boucle.= Curled hair or wool woven in any cloth in such a way as to show the curl makes boucle. The word is French for curl.

=Broadcloth.= Broadcloth is a soft, closely woven material with a satin finish. The best qualities are called satin broadcloth.

The origin of broadcloth dates back to early times, the first historical mention of it being made in 1641. In America, among the first products manufactured by the colonial woolen mills were black and colored broadcloths, and these (with satinets) formed the distinctive character of American woolen fabrics at that time. They were honestly made of pure, fine-fibered Saxony wool, and sold as high as $6.50 per yard.

The warp and filling are made of carded wool so that the web (cloth) will shrink or full evenly. The stock is generally dyed in the raw state when used for men's wear. When taken from the loom it does not have the smooth, l.u.s.trous appearance which is its distinctive feature.

It is rough and dull colored, with the threads showing plainly. To improve its appearance it is first subjected to the action of the fulling mill, with the result that the fibers of the warp and weft become entangled to such an extent that the cloth never unravels. Then the cloth is slightly napped and sheared down close, in order to produce a smooth, even surface. Next it is successively wetted, steamed, calendered, and hot pressed for the purpose of bringing out the l.u.s.ter. It is commonly twill woven, but is sometimes plain, finished with a slightly napped and l.u.s.trous face. It must have a bright, beaver finish, and be close and felty in the weave.

The broadcloth used for women's clothing is of a lighter weight and is generally piece dyed. It is used for ladies' suits, coats, and gentlemen's evening dress suits, frock coats, and tuxedos. It is expensive; prices range from $1.75 to $3.50 per yard in ladies'

broadcloth, and higher for men. The price depends on the quality of wool used, and uniformity of the nap and perfection of the finish.

=Bunting.= A plain even thread weave of mohair, wool, or worsted, used mostly for making flags. The name is from German, _bunt_, meaning variegated or gay colored.

=Caniche.= A name given to curled wool fabric showing the effect of the coat of the caniche, a French dog.

=Cashmere.= A cloth made from the hair of the Cashmere goat. The face of the fabric is twilled, the twills being uneven and irregular because of the unevenness of the yarn. Cashmere yarn was first hand spun. The goats are grown for their wool in the vale of Cashmere in the Himalaya Mountains.

=All Wool Cashmere.= As no material by this name exists there can be no definition. When the term is used in defining a fabric, it is a delusion and a snare.

=Cashmere Double.= A cloth having Cashmere twill on one side or face and poplin cord on the reverse.

=Ca.s.simere.= The name is a variation of Cashmere. Ca.s.simere, when properly made, is of Cashmere wool. Usually a twill weave.

=Castor.= Same as beaver, of a light weight.

=Challis.= (Also spelled _challie_.) A name given to a superior dress fabric of silk and wool first manufactured at Norwich, England, in 1832. In texture the original material was soft, thin, fine, and finished without gloss. When first introduced it ranked among the best and most elegant silk and wool textures manufactured. It was composed of fine materials, and instead of giving it a glossy surface, such as is usually produced from silk and fine wool, the object was to make it without l.u.s.ter. The name is now applied to an extremely light weight summer dress fabric, composed of either cotton or wool, or a mixture of these fabrics. In structure it is both plain woven and figured, the ornamental patterns being produced either in the loom or yarn, dyed or printed. It is not sized. All wool challis does not differ essentially from the old-fashioned muslin delaine. Most challis patterns are copied from the French silks, and this accounts in part for their tasteful designs and artistic effects. French challis is a material similar to the above, though usually characterized by a more glossy finish.

=Cheviot.= A descriptive term of somewhat loose application, being used indiscriminately of late years to denote almost any sort of stout woolen cloth finished with a rough and s.h.a.ggy surface. Originally the fabric known as cheviot was woven in England, from the strong, coa.r.s.e wool of the Cheviot sheep, whence the name.

It is at present a worsted or woolen fabric made of cheviot or "pulled wool," slightly felted, with a short even nap on the surface and a supple feel. Worsted cheviots, in plain colorings or of fancy effects, are manufactured from combed yarn. Woolen cheviots are made from carded yarn. The greater portion of this cla.s.s of goods in carded yarns contains little or no new wool in its make-up. Shoddy, mungo, and a liberal mixture of cotton to hold it together, blended in the many colorings, help to cover the deception. Prices range from 50 cents to $3.00. The material is plain or twill woven, and has many of the qualities of serge.

The distinguishing feature of cheviot, whatever the grade of cloth, is the finish, of which there are two kinds. One is known as the "rough"

finish, and the other as the "close" finish. Real cheviot is a rough-finished fabric, composed of a strong, coa.r.s.e wool and fulled to a considerable degree. The process of finishing cheviot is simple, and practically the same methods are followed for both the "rough" and the "close" styles. On leaving the loom the cloth is first washed in soap and water to remove any dirt or other foreign matter it may contain.

It is then fulled, which consists in shrinking the cloth both in length and breadth, thus rendering the texture heavier and denser.

Next it is "gigged" or napped. This is accomplished by pa.s.sing the face of the matted cloth against a cylinder covered with sharp pointed teasels which draw out the fibers from the yarn. This operation is continued until a nap more or less dense is raised over the entire surface.

From the gig the cloth is taken to the shearing machine, the revolving blades of which cut the long, irregular nap down to a uniform level.

Sometimes the style of finish called for is that approaching a threadbare ca.s.simere, and in this case great care is necessary to prevent the blades from cutting the yarn. In the rough finish the nap, although sparingly raised, is comparatively long. Having been napped and sheared, the cloth is pressed and carefully examined for defects, then brushed, pressed, and highly steamed. When measured, rolled, and steamed, it is ready for market, and is used mostly for ladies' and gentlemen's suitings. The pattern and design are light stripes and checks of small dimensions. Cheviot is a name given to many materials used for suiting.

=Chinchilla.= Heavy coating with rough wavy face. The name is Spanish for a fur-bearing animal of the mink species.

=Chudah.= Applied to billiard cloth; relates to color. Chudah is the Hindoo name of a bright green cloth.

=Corduroy.= Heavy corded cotton material used for servants' livery.

The name is from the French _Corde du Roi_--king's cords.

=Cote Cheval.= In France corded cloth for riding costumes, such as Bedford cord, is called cote cheval, the application being through _cheval_, horse; _cote_, ribbed or lined.

=Coupure.= Coupure is French for cut through. Coupure or cut cashmere is a cashmere weave showing lines cut through the twills lengthwise of the piece.

=Covert.= Heavy twilled cloth in natural undyed shades, used in England for men's overcoats worn while riding to covert in fox hunting.

=Delaine.= From the French "of wool"; applies to the most primitive weave of plain wool yarn. Thirty years ago delaine was the staple dress goods stock. It was made in solid colors.

=Diagonal Cheviot.= Same as cheviot, only in the weaving the pattern is marked by zigzag lines or stripes.

=Doeskin.= Of the broadcloth range, made with shiny napped face, soft finish, as the pelt of a doe.

=Drap d'ete.= A heavy cashmere or double warp merino, with the back teasled or scratched, used mostly for clergymen's clothing and in lighter weights for women's dresses. The name is French for "cloth of summer."

=Empress Cloth.= Similar to poplin; made of hard twisted worsted filling and cotton warp. Was made a success in the early seventies of the last century by the Empress Eugenie of France. Empress cloth was a staple in all well-regulated dress goods lines.

=epingline.= A fine corded fabric of wool or silk, showing the cords woven close together and appearing as if lined with a pin point. This application is from _epingle_, French for pin.

=Etamine.= French name for bolting or sifting cloth, made of silk for sifting flour; applied to mesh or net weaves in America.

=Felt.= Fabric made by rolling or pressing a pulpy ma.s.s or mixture of wool into a flat mat. The name is from the process. To felt is to mix and press into shape.

=Flannel.= Wales appears to have been the original home of flannel, and history informs us that this was the only textile produced in that country for hundreds of years. It is constructed either of cotton or wool, or of an intermixture of these fibers, and is a coa.r.s.e-threaded, loosely woven, light-weight fabric, more or less spongy and elastic, with an unfinished, l.u.s.terless surface. Generally speaking all grades of plain colored flannel are piece dyed, the soft open texture of the goods permitting the fibers to absorb the dye as readily in the web as in the yarn. Flannels are subjected to several finishing operations, such as fulling, teaseling, pressing, and stretching. Flannels do not require a great deal of fulling. All that is necessary is enough to give a degree of stability and body to the goods.