_Medici._--Special kind of torchon edging, with one edge scalloped.

_Melange._--Hand-made silk pillow lace, showing a combination of conventional Chantilly with Spanish designs.

_Mignonette._--Light bobbin lace, made in narrow strips.

Resembles tulle.

_Miracourt._--Sprig effects of bobbin-lace applied on net ground.

_Mexican Drawnwork._--Little round medallions either single or in strips, the threads drawn to form a cartwheel. Mexican and Teneriffe drawnwork are practically the same. Machine imitations made in Nottingham, Calais, and St. Gall.

_Motif._--See Medallion.

_Nanduly._--South American fiber-lace, made by needle in small squares, which are afterward joined together.

Design very beautiful and of remarkable durability.

_Needlepoint Lace._--See Point Lace.

_Normandy Lace._--See Valenciennes.

_Nottingham._--A general term including all the machine-made laces turned out in that great lace-producing center of England.

_Oriental Lace._--Really an embroidery, being produced on the Schiffli machine, the pattern being then either cut or eaten out. Also applied to point d'Arabe and certain filet effects.

_Oyah Lace._--A crocheted guipure shown in ornate patterns.

_Pa.s.s.e.m.e.nterie._--A decorative edging or tr.i.m.m.i.n.g, especially gimp or braid.

_Picots._--Infinitesimal loops on brides and other strands.

_Pillow Lace (Bobbin Lace)._--Made on a pillow with bobbins and pins. Machine-made imitations retain the name.

_Plauen._--Applied to all laces emanating from that section of Saxony and including imitations of nearly all point laces, which are embroidered on a wool ground, this being afterward dissolved in acid and the cotton or silk design left intact.

_Point de Gaze._--Fine gauze-like needle-lace.

_Point d'Irelande._--Coa.r.s.e machine lace, made in imitation of real Venetian point.

_Point de Milan._--A variety of guipure, having a ground of small meshes, and a pattern consisting of bold, flowing scroll devices.

_Point de Paris._--A variety of cheap machine lace, cotton, of simple design.

_Point Kant._--Flemish pillow lace, with a net ground and the design running largely to "pot" effects--pot lace.

_Point Lace._--Lace made by hand with needle and single thread. Needlepoint the same. Point d'Alencon, point de Venise, etc., are all variations of point lace and will be found cla.s.sified under their initials.

_Point Plat._--Point lace without raised design.

_Renaissance._--Modern lace, made of narrow tape or braid formed into patterns, held together by brides, the brides forming subsidiary designs. Battenberg is the same thing.

_Repousse._--Applied to the design, being a pattern that has the effect of being stamped in.

_Rococo._--Italian lace, bearing the rococo design.

_Rose Point._--See Venetian point.

_Seaming Lace._--Narrow, openwork insertion.

_Seville._--Variety of torchon.

_Spanish Lace._--A comprehensive term. Convent-made, needlepoint lace. Cut drawnwork effects, also convent-made. Needlepoint lace in large squares. Black silk lace in floral designs.

_Spanish Point._--Ancient embroidery of gold, silver, and silk pa.s.s.e.m.e.nterie.

_Swiss Lace._--Swiss embroidered net in imitation of Brussels.

_Tambour._--Variety of Limerick.

_Tape Lace._--Hand-made needle lace, similar to Renaissance.

_Thread Lace._--Made of linen thread, as distinguished from cotton and silk laces.

_Torchon._--Coa.r.s.e, open bobbin lace of stout but loosely twisted thread in very simple patterns. Much seen in imitations, usually in narrow widths.

_Van d.y.k.e Points._--Applied to laces with a border made in large points.

_Valenciennes._--Commonly called Val. Bobbin lace, seen mostly in cheap insertions and in the form of narrow edgings.

_Venetian Point._--Point de Venise. Needlepoint lace in floral pattern with the designs very close together and connected by brides ornamented with picots.

_Wood Fiber._--Applied to all laces made of wood silk.

_Yak._--Machine-made worsted lace. Used for tr.i.m.m.i.n.g for shawls, petticoats, and undergarments.

_Youghal._--Needlepoint lace of coa.r.s.e thread, made exclusively in Ireland.

_Ypres._--Bobbin lace, somewhat coa.r.s.er than Val.

CHAPTER XIV

COTTON FABRICS[16]

=Albatross.= Cotton albatross cloth is a fabric made in imitation of a worsted fabric of the same name. It has a fleecy surface. The name is taken from the bird whose downy breast the finish of the fabric resembles. The warp is usually 28s cotton, the filling 36s cotton. It is a plain weave. Filling and warp count 48 picks per inch. The goods are finished by being burled, sheared, washed, singed, dyed, rinsed, dried, and pressed, care being taken not to press too hard. Sometimes singeing is omitted. Albatross cloth is generally in white, black, or solid colors. It is not often printed. It is light in weight, and is used for dress goods.

=Awning.= A cotton cloth used as a cover to shelter from sun rays.