This "Rose" quilt was made in Ohio about 80 years ago.

Colours: red, pink, and two shades of green]

[Ill.u.s.tration: ROSE OF SHARON

Made in Indiana about 65 years ago. It has a wool interlining instead of the usual cotton]

The simple needs of the family are almost entirely supplied by the women of the household. They spin, weave, and make the few plain garments which they and their families wear. Day after day, year in and year out, these isolated women must fill in the hours with little tasks connected with home life. As in many other instances where women are dependent upon their own resources for amus.e.m.e.nt, they have recourse to their needles. Consequently, it is in the making of quilts, coverlets, and allied forms of needlework that these mountain women spend their hours of recreation.

The quilts, both pieced and patched, that are made in mountaineers'

cabins have a great variety of designs. Many designs have been used again and again by each succeeding generation of quilters without any variation whatever, and have well-known names. There are also designs that have been originated by a proficient quilt maker, who has made use of some common flower as the basis for her conventional design. It has not been a great many years since the materials used in making the mountain quilts were dyed as well as woven in the home. The dyes were homemade from common roots and shrubs gathered from nearby woods and meadows. Blue was obtained from wild indigo; brown from walnut hulls; black from the bark of scrub-oak; and yellow from laurel leaves.

However, the materials which must be purchased for a quilt are so meagre, and the colours called "oil boiled"--now used to dye calico--are so fast, that the mountain women seldom dye their own fabrics any more. They bring in a few chickens or eggs to the nearest village, and in exchange obtain a few yards of precious coloured calico for their quilts.

Miss Bessie Daingerfield, a Kentuckian, who is in close touch with these mountaineers, tells us what a void the quilt fills in the lives of the lonely women of the hills: "While contemporary women out in the world are waging feminist war, those in the mountains of the long Appalachian chain still sit at their quilting frames and create beauty and work wonders with patient needles. There is much beautiful and skilful handiwork hidden away in these hills. The old women still weave coverlets, towels, and table linen from wool from their own sheep and from flax grown in their own gardens. The girls adorn their cotton gowns with 'compa.s.s work,' exact, exquisite. In some places the men and boys, girls and women, make baskets of hickory reeds and willows to delight the heart of the collector. But from the cradle to the grave, the women make quilts. The tiny girl shows you with pride the completed four patch or nine patch, square piled on square, which 'mammy aims to set up for her ag'inst spring.' The mother tells you half jesting, half in earnest, 'the young un will have several ag'inst she has a home of her own.' No bride of the old country has more pride in her dower chest than the mountain bride in her pile of quilts. The old woman will show you a stack of quilts from floor to ceiling of her cabin. One dear old soul told me she had eighty-four, all different, and 'ever' st.i.tch, piecin', settin' up, quiltin', my own work and ne'er another finger tetched hit.'"

Patchwork was an important factor in making plain the knotty problems of existence, as Eliza Calvert Hall clearly shows when she makes "Aunt Jane of Kentucky" say: "How much piecin' a quilt is like livin' a life! Many a time I've set and listened to Parson Page preachin' about predestination and free will, and I've said to myself, 'If I could jest git up in the pulpit with one of my quilts I could make it a heap plainer to folks than parson's makin' it with his big words.' You see, you start out with jest so much caliker; you don't go to the store and pick it out and buy it, but the neighbours will give you a piece here and a piece there, and you'll have a piece left over every time you cut a dress, and you take jest what happens to come. And that's like predestination. But when it comes to the cuttin' out, why, you're free to choose your own pattern. You can give the same kind o' pieces to two persons, and one'll make a 'nine patch' and one'll make a 'wild-goose chase,' and there'll be two quilts made out of the same kind of pieces, and jest as different as they can be. And that is jest the way with livin'. The Lord sends us the pieces, but we can cut them out and put 'em together pretty much to suit ourselves, and there's a heap more in the cuttin' out and the sewin' than there is in the caliker."

In the great Central West, from Ohio to the Mississippi, the early settlers pa.s.sed through the same cycle of development as did their ancestors in the beginnings of the original colonies along the seaboard. The same dangers and privations were faced, and the women, as well as the men, quickly adapted themselves to the hardships of life in a new country. Shortly after the War of 1812, which secured to the United States a clear t.i.tle to this vast region, the great migration into the Ohio Valley began. Some families came by way of the Great Lakes, some by wagon over the Pennsylvania ridges, and still others by horseback over the mountains from Virginia. One and all of these pioneer families brought with them their most cherished household possessions. It is hardly necessary to say that every family had one or more quilts among its household goods. Many cases are on record of rare old mahogany bureaus and bedsteads transported hundreds of miles over trails through the wilderness on pack horses. Upon arrival at the site chosen for the future home, the real work of house building and furnishing began.

[Ill.u.s.tration: ORIGINAL FLORAL DESIGNS

This quilt contains twenty blocks, each of a different design. The border is composed of festoons decorated with c.o.c.ks...o...b..and sprays of flowers. A southern Indiana quilt made about 1825]

[Ill.u.s.tration: CONVENTIONAL TULIP

Made from a pattern used 130 years ago. Colours: pink and green]

"Only he who knows what it means to hew a home out of the forest; of what is involved in the task of replacing mighty trees with corn; only he who has watched the log house rising in the clearing, and has witnessed the devotedness that gathers around the old log schoolhouse and the pathos of a grave in the wilderness, can understand how sobriety, decency, age, devoutness, beauty, and power belong to the story of those who began the mighty task of changing the wild west into the heart of a teeming continent." Thus Jenkin Lloyd Jones, in his address on "The Father of Lincoln," gives a graphic picture of the labours and trials confronting those who made the first settlements in what are now the flourishing states of Ohio, Indiana, Kentucky, Illinois, and Michigan.

As in the colonies of New England, so here, the comforts of the family depended upon the thrift, energy, and thoughtfulness of the women. Practically every article of clothing worn by the entire family, as well as all household supplies, were the work of their busy hands. All day in the frontier cabin could be heard the hum of the spinning wheel, the clack of the loom, or the click of knitting needles. In many localities the added work of teaching the children fell to the mothers, and the home lessons given around the fireplace, heaped with glowing logs, were the only ones possible for many boys and girls. It is of particular interest to note how often learning and housekeeping went hand in hand in the first homes of this new country.

The few lines following are extracts from the diary of a busy Indiana housewife of the period preceding the Mexican War, and show how fully occupied was the time of the pioneer woman:

"November 10th. To-day was cider-making day, and all were up at sunrise."

"December 1st. We killed a beef to-day, the neighbours helping."

[Ill.u.s.tration: CONVENTIONAL ROSE

A very striking pattern, made in Indiana about 75 years ago. Colours: red, pink, and green]

[Ill.u.s.tration: CONVENTIONAL ROSE WREATH

This "Wreath of Roses" design has been in use for over 100 years. Colours: red, green, pink, and yellow]

"December 4th. I was much engaged in trying out my tallow. To-day I dipped candles and finished the 'Vicar of Wakefield.'"

"December 8th. To-day I commenced to read the 'Life of Washington,'

and I borrowed a singing book. Have been trying to make a bonnet. The cotton we raised served a very good purpose for candle-wicking when spun."

In the Middle West, without friendly cooperation, the lot of the pioneer would have been much more difficult than it was. Julia Henderson Levering tells of the prevalence of this kindly custom in her interesting "Historic Indiana": "The social pleasures of the earliest days were largely connected with the helpful neighbourhood a.s.sistance in the homely, necessary tasks of the frontier. If a new cabin was to be built, the neighbours a.s.sembled for the house raising, for the logs were too heavy to be handled alone. When a clearing was made, the log rolling followed. All men for miles around came to help, and the women to help cook and serve the bountiful meals. Then there were corn huskings, wool shearings, apple parings, sugar boilings, and quilting bees."

About 1820 a new channel of commerce was opened to the inhabitants of the Ohio Valley, in the advantages of which every household shared.

This was the establishing of steamboat and flatboat communication with New Orleans. From out of the Wabash River alone over a thousand flatboats, laden with agricultural products, pa.s.sed into the Ohio during the annual spring rise on their way to the seaport by the Gulf of Mexico. On their return voyage these boats were laden with sacks of coffee, quaint Chinese boxes of tea, china and silk from France, and mahogany and silver from England. In this manner the finest fabrics, which were hitherto obtainable only in those cities that possessed sea communication, were available in every river hamlet. Many of the fine old quilts now being brought to light in the Central West were wrought of foreign cloth which has made this long journey in some farmer's scow.

In England during the middle of the past century, the Victorian period was known chiefly for its hideous array of cardboard mottoes done in brilliant wools, crochet tidies, and wax flowers. It is particularly fortunate that at this time the women of the United States were too fully occupied with their own household arts and industries to take up with the ideas of their English sisters. By far the best needlework of this period were the beautiful quilts and bedspreads, exquisite in colour and design, which were the product of American women. The finest quilts were wrought along designs largely original with the quilters themselves, who plied their needles in solitary farmhouses and out-of-the-way hamlets to which the influence of English idea in needlework could not penetrate. In no locality in our country can so many rare and beautiful quilts be found as in the Middle West. Many of the best were made during those early days of struggle for mere existence, when they served the busy housewife as the one precious outlet for her artistic aspirations.

The type of quilt that may be called distinctively American was substantial in character; the material that entered into its construction was serviceable, of a good quality of cotton cloth, or handwoven linen, and the careful work put into it was intended to stand the test of time. The coloured materials combined with the white were also enduring, the colours being as nearly permanent as it was possible to procure. Some cottons were dyed by the quilt makers themselves, if desirable fast shades could not be readily procured otherwise. The fundamental idea was to make a quilt that would withstand the greatest possible amount of wear. Some of the artistic possibilities in both colour and design were often subordinated to the desire to make quilts as nearly imperishable as possible. The painstaking needlework required to produce a quilt deserved the best of material for its foundation. Silks, satins, velvets, and fine linen and cotton fabrics of delicate shades were not favoured as quilt material by the old-time needleworkers, who wrought for service first and beauty afterward.

A most beautiful example of the American quilt at its best is found in the "Indiana Wreath." Its pleasing design, harmonious colours, and exquisite workmanship reveal to us the quilter's art in its greatest perfection. This quilt was made by Miss E. J. Hart, a most versatile and skilful needlewoman, in 1858, as shown by the small precise figures below the large wreath. The design is exceedingly well balanced in that the entire quilt surface is uniformly covered and no one feature is emphasized to the detriment of any other. The design element of the wreath is a compact group of flowers, fruit, and leaves, which is repeated ten times in making the complete circle.

The vase filled with drooping sprays, flowers, and conventionalized buds forms an ideal centre for this wreath. Curving vines intermingled with flowers make a desirable and graceful border. This quilt is a little more than two and a half yards square, and the central wreath fills a s.p.a.ce equal to the width of a double bed, for which it was evidently intended.

[Ill.u.s.tration: POINSETTIA

An applique quilt of red, blue, and green]

[Ill.u.s.tration: WHIG ROSE

On the reverse side is a small "gold pocket" in which valuables may be secreted. Colours: yellow, red, and green]

Miss Hart displayed unusual ability in choosing and combining the limited materials at the disposal of the quilt maker in a newly settled region. The foundation is fine white muslin; the coloured material is calico, in the serviceable quality manufactured at that time, and of shades considered absolutely fast, then known as "oil boiled." Only four colours are used in the design: green, red, yellow, and pink, the latter having a small allover printed design in a darker shade.

Miss Hart planned her quilting quite carefully. In the large blank s.p.a.ces in the corners are placed special, original designs that have some features of the much-used "feather" pattern. Aside from these triangular corner designs all the quilting is in small diamonds, which form a very pleasing background for the effective coloured designs.

The maker's name and the date are closely quilted in white in plain bold-faced type just below the wreath. In the centre of the wreath, in neat script in black thread, is quilted the name "Indiana Wreath," and all the st.i.tchery of top and quilting is the very perfection of quilt making.

The beautiful white quilts that are treasured as relics of past industry by their fortunate owners deserve special mention. They are rare because nowadays no one will expend the large amount of time necessary to complete one. The foundation of such a quilt is fine white muslin, or fine homespun and woven linen, with a very thin interlining. The beauty of the quilt depends upon the design drawn for the quilting and the fine st.i.tches with which the quilting is done.

There is usually a special design planned for these white quilts which includes a large central panel or pattern, with smaller designs for the corners embodying some of the ideas of the central panel. Around these decorative sections the background is so closely quilted as to resemble a woven fabric. This smooth, even background throws the princ.i.p.al designs into low relief. After the entire quilt is quilted and removed from the frames, the main design is frequently further accentuated by having all the most prominent features, such as the leaves and petals of flowers, stuffed. To accomplish this tiny holes are made on the wrong side of each section of the design and cotton is pushed in with a large needle until the section is stuffed full and tight. This tedious process is followed until every leaf and petal stands out in bold relief.

[Ill.u.s.tration: POPPY DESIGN

This is applied patchwork and therefore much more easily made than pieced work; very simple quilting gives prominence to the design]

The fashion which has prevailed for many years of dressing beds all in white has no doubt caused the destruction of many beautiful quilts.

The white quilts that have been preserved are now considered too valuable to be subjected to hard wear. The most exquisite ones were made in the last of the eighteenth and the beginning of the nineteenth centuries.

It was the rage for white bed coverings that shortened the lives of many old pieced and patched quilts of good colouring. The "Country Contributor" tells of her experiences in dressing up the white beds:

"I remember with regret the quilts I wore out, using them white side up in lieu of white Ma.r.s.eilles spreads. The latter we were far too poor to own; the 'tufted' ones had worn out; and I loathed the cheap 'honeycombed' cotton things we were forced to use unless we were going to be frankly 'poor' and cover our beds with plain patchwork, made up hurriedly and quilted in simple 'fans' in plebeian squares, as poor folk who haven't time for elegant st.i.tches did theirs. So I used the old quilts, making their fine st.i.tches in intricate patterns serve for the design in a 'white spread,' turning the white muslin lining up. A beautiful white spread it made, too, I realize now, more fully than I did then, though I now would know much better than to turn the wonderful applique stars and flowers and wheels from view. Strange, is it not, that we relinquish so much of life's best joy and pleasure before we know what actually is good?" This fashion prevails to-day, in some instances insisted upon for sanitary reasons, but it has lost to us many of the finest examples of quilting that existed because where there were no coloured patterns to relieve the white expanse, the quilting had to be perfect. If you have a white quilt treasure it, for competent quilters are no longer numerous and few there are who can reproduce it.

CHAPTER V

HOW QUILTS ARE MADE

It is only in comparatively recent years that many articles of wearing apparel and house furnishings have been manufactured outside the home.

One after another, spinning, weaving, shoemaking, candlemaking, tailoring, knitting, and similar tasks have been taken from the homekeeper because the same articles can be made better and cheaper elsewhere. The housewife still keeps busy, but is occupied with tasks more to her liking. Among the few home occupations that have survived is quilting. With many serviceable subst.i.tutes it is not really necessary for women to make quilts now, but the strange fascination about the work holds their interest. Quilt making has developed and progressed during the very period when textile arts in the home have declined under the influence of the factory. More quilts are being made at the present time and over a wider area than ever before.