_a b_, Ancient mosaic pavement.

_c c_, Dark marine incrustation.

_d d_, First filling up, shower of ashes.

_e e_, Freshwater calcareous deposit.

_f f_, Second filling up.

_A_, Stadium.

We have already seen (p. 512) that a temple of Serapis existed long before the Christian era. The change of level just mentioned must have taken place some time before the end of the second century, for inscriptions have been found in the temple, from which we learn that Septimius Severus adorned its walls with precious marbles, between the years 194 and 211 of our era, and the emperor Alexander Severus displayed the like munificence between the years 222 and 235.[720] From that era there is an entire dearth of historical information for a period of more than twelve centuries, except the significant fact that Alaric and his Goths sacked Puzzuoli in 456, and that Genseric did the like in 545, A. D. Yet we have fortunately a series of natural archives self-registered during the dark ages, by which many events which occurred in and about the temple are revealed to us. These natural records consist partly of deposits, which envelop the pillars below the zone of lithodomous perforations, and partly of those which surround the outer walls of the temple. Mr. Babbage, after a minute examination of these, has shown (see p. 507, note) that incrustations on the walls of the exterior chambers and on the floor of the building demonstrate that the pavement did not sink down suddenly, but was depressed by a gradual movement. The sea first entered the court or atrium and mingled its waters partially with those of the hot spring. From this brackish medium a dark calcareous precipitate (_c c_, fig. 90) was thrown down, which became, in the course of time, more than two feet thick, including some serpulae in it. The presence of these annelids teaches us that the water was salt or brackish. After this period the temple was filled up with an irregular ma.s.s of volcanic tuff (_d d_, fig. 90), probably derived from an eruption of the neighboring crater of the Solfatara, to the height of from five to nine feet above the pavement. Over this again a purely freshwater deposit of carbonate of lime (_e e_, fig. 90) acc.u.mulated with an _uneven_ bottom since it necessarily accommodated itself to the irregular outline of the upper surface of the volcanic shower before thrown down. The top of the same deposit (a freshwater limestone) was perfectly even and flat, bespeaking an ancient water level. It is suggested by Mr. Babbage that this freshwater lake may have been caused by the fall of ashes which choked up the channel previously communicating with the sea, so that the hot spring threw down calcareous matter in the atrium, without any marine intermixture. To the freshwater limestone succeeded another irregular ma.s.s of volcanic ashes and rubbish (_f f_, fig. 90), some of it perhaps washed in by the waves of the sea during a storm, its surface rising to ten or eleven feet above the pavement. And thus we arrive at the period of greatest depression expressed in the accompanying diagram, when the lower half of the pillars were enveloped in the deposits above enumerated, and the uppermost twenty feet were exposed in the atmosphere, the remaining or middle portion, about nine feet long, being for years immersed in salt water and drilled by perforating bivalves. After this period other strata, consisting of showers of volcanic ashes and materials washed in during storms, covered up the pillars to the height in some places of thirty-five feet above the pavement. The exact time when these enveloping ma.s.ses were heaped up, and how much of them were formed during submergence, and how much after the re-elevation of the temple, cannot be made out with certainty.

The period of deep submergence was certainly antecedent to the close of the fifteenth century. Professor James Forbes[721] has reminded us of a pa.s.sage in an old Italian writer Loffredo, who says that in 1530, or fifty years before he wrote, which was in 1580, the sea washed the base of the hills which rise from the flat land called La Starza, as represented in fig. 90, so that, to quote his words, "a person might then have fished from the site of those ruins which are now called the stadium" (A, fig. 90).

But we know from other evidence that the upward movement had begun before 1530, for the Canonico Andrea di Jorio cites two authentic doc.u.ments in ill.u.s.tration of this point. The first, dated Oct. 1503, is a deed written in Italian, by which Ferdinand and Isabella grant to the University of Puzzuoli a portion of land, "where the sea is drying up"

(che va seccando el mare); the second, a doc.u.ment in Latin, dated May 23, 1511, or nearly eight years after, by which Ferdinand grants to the city a certain territory around Puzzuoli, where the ground _is dried up_ from the sea (desiccatum).[722]

The princ.i.p.al elevation, however, of the low tract unquestionably took place at the time of the great eruption of Monte Nuovo in 1538. That event and the earthquakes which preceded it have been already described (p. 368); and we have seen that two of the eye-witnesses of the convulsion, Falconi and Giacomo di Toledo, agree in declaring that the sea abandoned a considerable tract of the sh.o.r.e, so that fish were taken by the inhabitants; and, among other things, Falconi mentions that he saw two springs _in the newly discovered ruins_.

The flat land, when first upraised, must have been more extensive than now, for the sea encroaches somewhat rapidly, both to the north and southeast of Puzzuoli. The coast had, when I examined it in 1828, given way more than a foot in a twelvemonth; and I was a.s.sured, by fishermen in the bay, that it has lost ground near Puzzuoli, to the extent of thirty feet, within their memory.

It is, moreover, very probable that the land rose to a greater height at first before it ceased to move upwards, than the level at which it was observed to stand when the temple was rediscovered in 1749, for we learn from a memoir, of Niccolini, published in 1838, that since the beginning of the nineteenth century, the temple of Serapis has subsided more than two feet. That learned architect visited the ruins frequently, for the sake of making drawings, in the beginning of the year 1807, and was in the habit of remaining there throughout the day, yet never saw the pavement overflowed by the sea, except occasionally when the south wind blew violently. On his return, sixteen years after, to superintend some excavations ordered by the king of Naples, he found the pavement covered by sea-water twice every day at high tide, so that he was obliged to place there a line of stones to stand upon. This induced him to make a series of observations from Oct. 1822 to July 1838, by which means he ascertained that the ground had been and was sinking, at the average rate of about seven millimetres a year, or about one inch in four years; so that, in 1838, fish were caught every day on that part of the pavement where, in 1807, there was never a drop of water in calm weather.[723]

On inquiring still more recently as to the condition of the temple and the continuance of the sinking of the ground, I learn from Signor Scacchi in a letter, dated June 1852, that the downward movement has ceased for several years, or has at least become almost inappreciable.

During an examination undertaken by him at my request in the summer of that year (1852), he observed that the rising tide spread first over the seaward side of the flat surface of the pedestals of each column (confirming the fact previously noticed by others, that they are out of the perpendicular); and he also remarked that the water gained unequally on the base of each pillar, in such a manner as to prove that they have neither the same amount of inclination, nor lean precisely in the same direction.

From what was said before (p. 510), we saw that the marine sh.e.l.ls in the strata forming the plain called La Starza, considered separately, establish the fact of an upheaval of the ground to the height of twenty-three feet and upwards. The temple proves much more, because it could not have been built originally under water, and must therefore first have sunk down twenty feet at least below the waves, to be afterwards restored to its original position. Yet if such was the order of events we ought to meet with other independent signs of a like subsidence round the margin of a bay once so studded with buildings as the Bay of Baiae. Accordingly memorials of such submergence are not wanting. About a mile northwest of the temple of Serapis, and about 500 feet from the sh.o.r.e, are the ruins of a temple of Neptune and others of a temple of the Nymphs, now underwater. The columns of the former edifice stand erect in five feet of water, their upper portions just rising to the surface of the sea. The pedestals are doubtless buried in the sand or mud; so that, if this part of the bottom of the bay should hereafter be elevated, the exhumation of these temples might take place after the manner of that of Serapis. Both these buildings probably partic.i.p.ated in the movement which raised the Starza; but either they were deeper under water than the temple of Serapis, or they were not raised up again to so great a height. There are also two Roman roads under water in the bay, one reaching from Puzzuoli to the Lucrine Lake, which may still be seen, and the other near the castle of Baiae (No. 8, fig. 88, p. 509). The ancient mole, too, of Puzzuoli (No. 4, ibid.) before alluded to, has the water up to a considerable height of the arches; whereas Brieslak justly observes, it is next to certain that the piers must formerly have reached the surface before the springing of the arches;[724] so that, although the phenomena before described prove that this mole has been uplifted ten feet above the level at which it once stood, it is still evident that it has not yet been restored to its original position.

A modern writer also reminds us, that these effects are not so local as some would have us to believe; for on the opposite side of the Bay of Naples, on the Sorrentine coast, which, as well as Puzzuoli, is subject to earthquakes, a road, with some fragments of Roman buildings, is covered to some depth by the sea. In the island of Capri, also, which is situated some way out at sea, in the opening of the Bay of Naples, one of the palaces of Tiberius is now covered with water.[725]

That buildings should have been submerged, and afterwards upheaved, without being entirely reduced to a heap of ruins, will appear no anomaly, when we recollect that, in the year 1819, when the delta of the Indus sank down, the houses within the fort of Sindree subsided beneath the waves without being overthrown. In like manner, in the year 1692, the buildings round the harbor of Port Royal, in Jamaica, descended suddenly to the depth of between thirty and fifty feet under the sea without falling. Even on small portions of land transported to a distance of a mile down a declivity, tenements, like those near Mileto, in Calabria, were carried entire. At Valparaiso buildings were left standing in 1822, when their foundations, together with a long tract of the Chilian coast, were permanently upraised to the height of several feet. It is still more easy to conceive that an edifice may escape falling during the upheaval or subsidence of land, if the walls are supported on the exterior and interior with a deposit like that which surrounded and filled to the height of ten or eleven feet the temple of Serapis all the time it was sinking, and which enveloped it to more than twice that height when it was rising again to its original level.

We can scarcely avoid the conclusion, as Mr. Babbage has hinted, "that the action of heat is in some way or other the cause of the phenomena of the change of level of the temple. Its own hot spring, its immediate contiguity to the Solfatara, its nearness to the Monte Nuovo, the hot spring at the baths of Nero (No. 6, fig. 88), on the opposite side of the Bay of Baiae; the boiling springs and ancient volcanoes of Ischia on one side and Vesuvius on the other, are the most prominent of a mult.i.tude of facts which point to that conclusion."[726] And when we reflect on the dates of the princ.i.p.al oscillations of level, and the volcanic history of the country before described (chap. 23), we seem to discover a connection between each era of upheaval and a local development of volcanic heat, and again between each era of depression and the local quiescence or dormant condition of the subterranean igneous causes. Thus for example, before the Christian era, when so many vents were in frequent eruption in Ischia, and when Avernus and other points in the Phlegraean Fields were celebrated for their volcanic aspect and character, the ground on which the temple stood was several feet above water. Vesuvius was then regarded as a spent volcano; but when, after the Christian era, the fires of that mountain were rekindled, scarcely a single outburst was ever witnessed in Ischia, or around the Bay of Baiae. Then the temple was sinking. Vesuvius, at a subsequent period, became nearly dormant for five centuries preceding the great outbreak of 1631 (see p. 374), and in that interval the Solfatara was in eruption A. D. 1198, Ischia in 1302, and Monte Nuovo was formed in 1538.

Then the foundations on which the temple stood were rising again.

Lastly, Vesuvius once more became a most active vent, and has been so ever since, and during the same lapse of time the area of the temple, so far as we know any thing of its history, has been subsiding.

These phenomena would agree well with the hypothesis, that when the subterranean heat is on the increase, and when lava is forming without obtaining an easy vent, like that afforded by a great habitual chimney, such as Vesuvius, the inc.u.mbent surface is uplifted; but when the heated rocks below are cooling and contracting, and sheets of lava are slowly consolidating and diminishing in volume, then the inc.u.mbent land subsides.

Signor Niccolini, when he ascertained in 1838 that the relative levels of the floor of the temple and of the sea were slowly changing from year to year, embraced the opinion that it was the sea which was rising. But Signor Capocci successfully controverted this view, appealing to many appearances which attest the local character of the movements of the adjoining country, besides the historical fact that in 1538, when the sea retired permanently 200 yards from the ancient sh.o.r.e at Puzzuoli, there was no simultaneous retreat of the waters from Naples, Castelamare, and Ischia.[727]

_Permanence of the ocean's level._--In concluding this subject I may observe, that the interminable controversies to which the phenomena of the Bay of Baiae gave rise, have sprung from an extreme reluctance to admit that the land, rather than the sea, is subject alternately to rise and fall. Had it been a.s.sumed that the level of the ocean was invariable, on the ground that no fluctuations have as yet been clearly established, and that, on the other hand, the continents are inconstant in their level, as has been demonstrated by the most unequivocal proofs again and again, from the time of Strabo to our own times, the appearances of the temple at Puzzuoli could never have been regarded as enigmatical. Even if contemporary accounts had not distinctly attested the upraising of the coast, this explanation should have been proposed in the first instance as the most natural, instead of being now adopted unwillingly when all others have failed.

To the strong prejudices still existing in regard to the mobility of the land, we may attribute the rarity of such discoveries as have been recently brought to light in the Bay of Baiae and the Bay of Conception.

A false theory, it is well known, may render us blind to facts which are opposed to our prepossessions, or may conceal from us their true import when we behold them. But it is time that the geologist should, in some degree, overcome those first and natural impressions, which induced the poets of old to select the rock as the emblem of firmness--the sea as the image of inconstancy. Our modern poet, in a more philosophical spirit, saw in the sea "The image of eternity," and has finely contrasted the fleeting existence of the successive empires which have flourished and fallen on the borders of the ocean with its own unchanged stability.

------Their decay Has dried up realms to deserts:--not so thou, Unchangeable, save to thy wild wave's play: Time writes no wrinkle on thine azure brow; Such as creation's dawn beheld, thou rollest now.

CHILDE HAROLD, Canto iv.

CHAPTER x.x.x.

ELEVATION AND SUBSIDENCE OF LAND WITHOUT EARTHQUAKES.

Changes in the relative level of land and sea in regions not volcanic--Opinion of Celsius that the waters of the Baltic Sea and Northern Ocean were sinking--Objections raised to his opinion--Proofs of the stability of the sea level in the Baltic--Playfair's hypothesis that the land was rising in Sweden--Opinion of Von Buch--Marks cut on the rocks--Survey of these in 1820--Facility of detecting slight alterations of level on coast of Sweden--Sh.o.r.es of the ocean also rising--Area upheaved--Sh.e.l.ly deposits of Uddevalla--Of Stockholm, containing fossil sh.e.l.ls characteristic of the Baltic--Subsidence in south of Sweden--Fishing hut buried under marine strata--Upheaval in Sweden not always in horizontal planes--Sinking of land in Greenland--Bearing of these facts on geology.

We have now considered the phenomena of volcanoes and earthquakes according to the division of the subject before proposed (p. 345), and have next to turn our attention to those slow and insensible changes in the relative level of land and sea which take place in countries remote from volcanoes, and where no violent earthquakes have occurred within the period of human observation. Early in the last century the Swedish naturalist, Celsius, expressed his opinion that the waters, both of the Baltic and Northern Ocean, were gradually subsiding. From numerous observations, he inferred that the rate of depression was about fifty Swedish inches in a century.[728] In support of this position, he alleged that there were many rocks both on the sh.o.r.es of the Baltic and the ocean known to have been once sunken reefs, and dangerous to navigators, but which were in his time above water--that the waters of the Gulf of Bothnia had been gradually converted into land, several ancient ports having been changed into inland cities, small islands joined to the continent, and old fishing-grounds deserted as being too shallow, or entirely dried up. Celsius also maintained, that the evidence of the change rested not only on modern observations, but on the authority of the ancient geographers, who had stated that Scandinavia was formerly an island. This island, he argued, must in the course of centuries, by the gradual retreat of the sea, have become connected with the continent; an event which he supposed to have happened after the time of Pliny, and before the ninth century of our era.

To this argument it was objected that the ancients were so ignorant of the geography of the most northern parts of Europe, that their authority was ent.i.tled to no weight; and that their representation of Scandinavia as an island, might with more propriety be adduced to prove the scantiness of their information, than to confirm so bold an hypothesis.

It was also remarked that if the land which connected Scandinavia with the main continent was laid dry between the time of Pliny and the ninth century, to the extent to which it is known to have risen above the sea at the latter period, the rate of depression could not have been uniform, as was pretended; for it ought to have fallen much more rapidly between the ninth and eighteenth centuries.

Many of the proofs relied on by Celsius and his followers were immediately controverted by several philosophers, who saw clearly that a fall of the sea in any one region could not take place without a general sinking of the waters over the whole globe: they denied that this was the fact, or that the depression was universal, even in the Baltic. In proof of the stability of the level of that sea, they appealed to the position of the island of Saltholm, not far from Copenhagen. This island is so low, that in autumn and winter it is permanently overflowed; and it is only dry in summer, when it serves for pasturing cattle. It appears, from the doc.u.ments of the year 1280, that Saltholm was then also in the same state, and exactly on a level with the mean height of the sea, instead of having been about twenty feet under water, as it ought to have been, according to the computation of Celsius. Several towns, also, on the sh.o.r.es of the Baltic, as Lubeck, Wismar, Rostock, Stralsund, and others, after six and even eight hundred years, are as little elevated above the sea as at the era of their foundation, being now close to the water's edge. The lowest part of Dantzic was no higher than the mean level of the sea in the year 1000; and after eight centuries its relative position remains exactly the same.[729]

Several of the examples of the gain of land and shallowing of the sea pointed out by Celsius, and afterwards by Linnaeus, who embraced the same opinions, were ascribed by others to the deposition of sediment at points where rivers entered; and, undoubtedly, Celsius had not sufficiently distinguished between changes due to these causes and such as would arise if the waters of the ocean itself were diminishing. Many large rivers descending from a mountainous country, at the head of the Gulf of Bothnia, enter the sea charged with sand, mud, and pebbles; and it was said that in these places the low land had advanced rapidly, especially near Torneo. At Piteo also, half a mile had been gained in forty-five years; at Luleo,[730] no less than a mile in twenty-eight years; facts which might all be admitted consistently with the a.s.sumption that the level of the Baltic has remained unchanged, like that of the Adriatic, during a period when the plains of the Po and the Adige have greatly extended their area.

It was also alleged that certain insular rocks, once entirely covered with water, had at length protruded themselves above the waves, and grown, in the course of a century and a half, to be eight feet high. The following attempt was made to explain away this phenomenon:--In the Baltic, large erratic blocks, as well as sand and smaller stones which lie on shoals, are liable every year to be frozen into the ice, where the sea freezes to the depth of five or six feet. On the melting of the snow in spring, when the sea rises about half a fathom, numerous ice-islands float away, bearing up these rocky fragments so as to convey them to a distance; and if they are driven by the waves upon shoals, they may convert them into islands by depositing the blocks; if stranded upon low islands, they may considerably augment their height.

Browallius, also, and some other Swedish naturalists, affirmed that some islands were lower than formerly; and that, by reference to this kind of evidence, there was equally good reason for contending that the level of the Baltic was gradually rising. They also added another curious proof of the permanency of the water level, at some points at least, for many centuries. On the Finland coast were some large pines, growing close to the water's edge; these were cut down, and, by counting the concentric rings of annual growth, as seen in a transverse section of the trunk, it was demonstrated that they had stood there for four hundred years. Now, according to the Celsian hypothesis, the sea had sunk about fifteen feet during that period, in which case the germination and early growth of these pines must have been, for many seasons, below the level of the water. In like manner it was a.s.serted, that the lower walls of many ancient castles, such as those of Sonderburg and bo, reached then to the water's edge, and must, therefore, according to the theory of Celsius, have been originally constructed below the level of the sea.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 91.]

In reply to this last argument, Colonel Hallstrom, a Swedish engineer, well acquainted with the Finland coast, a.s.sured me, that the base of the walls of the castle of bo is now ten feet above the water, so that there may have been a considerable rise of the land at that point since the building was erected.

Playfair, in his "Ill.u.s.trations of the Huttonian Theory," in 1802, admitted the sufficiency of the proofs adduced by Celsius, but attributed the change of level to the movement of the land, rather than to a diminution of the waters. He observed, "that in order to depress or elevate the absolute level of the sea, by a given quant.i.ty, in any one place, we must depress or elevate it by the same quant.i.ty over the whole surface of the earth; whereas no such necessity exists with respect to the elevation or depression of the land."[731] The hypothesis of the rising of the land he adds, "agrees well with the Huttonian theory, which holds, that our continents are subject to be acted upon by the expansive forces of the mineral regions; that by these forces they have been actually raised up, and are sustained by them in their present situation.[732]

In the year 1807, Von Buch, after returning from a tour in Scandinavia, announced his conviction, "that the whole country, from Frederickshall in Norway to bo in Finland, and perhaps as far as St. Petersburg, was slowly and insensibly rising." He also suggested "that Sweden may rise more than Norway, and the northern more than the southern part."[733] He was led to these conclusions princ.i.p.ally by information obtained from the inhabitants and pilots, and in part by the occurrence of marine sh.e.l.ls of recent species, which he had found at several points on the coast of Norway above the level of the sea. He also mentions the marks set on the rocks. Von Buch, therefore, has the merit of being the first geologist who, after a personal examination of the evidence, declared in favor of the rise of land in Scandinavia.

The attention excited by this subject in the early part of the last century, induced many philosophers in Sweden to endeavor to determine, by accurate observations, whether the standard level of the Baltic was really subject to periodical variations; and under their direction, lines or grooves, indicating the ordinary level of the water on a calm day, together with the date of the year, were chiselled out upon the rocks. In 1820-21, all the marks made before those years were examined by the officers of the pilotage establishment of Sweden; and in their report to the Royal Academy of Stockholm they declared, that on comparing the level of the sea at the time of their observations with that indicated by the ancient marks, they found that the Baltic was lower relatively to the land in certain places, but the amount of change during equal periods of time had not been everywhere the same. During their survey, they cut new marks for the guidance of future observers, several of which I had an opportunity of examining fourteen years after (in the summer of 1834), and in that interval the land appeared to me to have risen at certain places north of Stockholm four or five inches. I also convinced myself, during my visit to Sweden, after conversing with many civil engineers, pilots, and fishermen, and after examining some of the ancient marks, that the evidence formerly adduced in favor of the change of level, both on the coasts of Sweden and Finland, was full and satisfactory.[734] The alteration of level evidently diminishes as we proceed from the northern parts of the Gulf of Bothnia towards the south, being very slight around Stockholm. Some writers have indeed represented the rate of depression of the waters at Stockholm as very considerable, because certain houses in that city which are built on piles have sunk down within the memory of persons still living, so as to be out of the perpendicular; and this in consequence of the tops of the piles giving way and decaying, owing to a fall of the waters which has exposed them to be alternately wet and dry. The houses alluded to are situated on the borders of Lake Maeler, a large lake, the outlet of which joins the Baltic, in the middle of Stockholm. This lake is certainly lower than formerly; but the princ.i.p.al cause of the change is not the elevation of the land, but the removal of two old bridges built on piles, which formerly obstructed the discharge of the fresh water into the sea. Another cause is the opening, in the year 1819, of a new ca.n.a.l at Sodertelje, a place south of Stockholm, by means of which a new line of communication was formed between Lake Maeler and the Baltic.[735]

It will naturally be asked, whether the mean level of a sea like the Baltic can ever be determined so exactly as to permit us to appreciate a variation of level, amounting only to one or two feet. In reply, I may observe, that, except near the Cattegat, there are no tides in the Baltic; and it is only when particular winds have prevailed for several days in succession, or at certain seasons when there has been an unusually abundant influx of river water, or when these causes have combined, that this sea is made to rise two or three feet above its standard level. The fluctuations due to these causes are nearly the same from year to year; so that the pilots and fishermen believe and apparently with reason, that they can mark a deviation, even of a few inches, from the ordinary or mean height of the waters.

There are, moreover, peculiarities in the configuration of the sh.o.r.es of Norway and Sweden, which facilitate in a remarkable degree the appreciation of slight changes in the relative level of land and water.

It has often been said, that there are two coasts, an inner and an outer one; the inner being the sh.o.r.e of the main land; the outer one, a fringe of countless rocky islands of all dimensions, called the skar (_shair_).

Boats and small vessels make their coasting voyages within this skar: for here they may sail in smooth water, even when the sea without is strongly agitated. But the navigation is very intricate, and the pilot must possess a perfect acquaintance with the breadth and depth of every narrow channel, and the position of innumerable sunken rocks. If on such a coast the land rises one or two feet in the course of half a century, the minute topography of the skar is entirely altered. To a stranger, indeed, who revisits it after an interval of many years, its general aspect remains the same; but the inhabitant finds that he can no longer penetrate with his boat through channels where he formerly pa.s.sed, and he can tell of countless other changes in the height and breadth of isolated rocks, now exposed, but once only seen through the clear water.

The rocks of gneiss, mica-schist, and quartz are usually very hard on this coast, slow to decompose, and, when protected from the breakers, remaining for ages unaltered in their form. Hence it is easy to mark the stages of their progressive emergence by the aid of natural and artificial marks imprinted on them. Besides the summits of _fixed_ rocks, there are numerous erratic blocks of vast size strewed over the shoals and islands in the skar, which have been probably drifted by ice in the manner before suggested.[736] All these are observed to have increased in height and dimension with the last half century. Some, which were formerly known as dangerous sunken rocks, are now only hidden when the water is highest. On their first appearance, they usually present a smooth, bare, rounded protuberance, a few feet or yards in diameter; and a single sea-gull often appropriates to itself this resting-place, resorting there to devour its prey. Similar points, in the mean time, have grown to long reefs, and are constantly whitened by a mult.i.tude of sea-fowl; while others have been changed from a reef, annually submerged, to a small islet, on which a few lichens, a fir-seedling, and a few blades of gra.s.s, attest that the shoal has at length been fairly changed into dry land. Thousands of wooded islands around show the great alterations which time can work. In the course of centuries also, the s.p.a.ces intervening between the existing islands may be laid dry, and become gra.s.sy plains encircled by heights well clothed with lofty firs. This last step of the process, by which long fiords and narrow channels, once separating wooded islands, are deserted by the sea, has been exemplified within the memory of living witnesses on several parts of the coast.

Had the apparent fall of the waters been observed in the Baltic only, we might have endeavored to explain the phenomenon by local causes affecting that sea alone. For instance, the channel by which the Baltic discharges its surplus waters into the Atlantic, might be supposed to have been gradually widened and deepened by the waves and currents, in which case a fall of the water like that before alluded to in Lake Maeler, might have occurred. But the lowering of level would in that case have been uniform and universal, and the waters could not have sunk at Torneo, while they retained their former level at Copenhagen. Such an explanation is also untenable on other grounds; for it is a fact, as Celsius long ago affirmed, that the alteration of level extends to the western sh.o.r.es of Sweden, bordering the ocean. The signs of elevation observed between Uddevalla and Gothenburg are as well established as those on the sh.o.r.es of the Bothnian Gulf. Among the places where they may be studied, are the islands of Marstrand and Gulholmen, the last-mentioned locality being one of those particularly pointed out by Celsius.

The inhabitants there and elsewhere affirm, that the rate of the sinking of the sea (or elevation of land) varies in different and adjoining districts, being greatest at points where the land is low. But in this they are deceived; for they measure the amount of rise by the area gained, which is most considerable where the land descends with a gentle slope into the sea. In the same manner, some advocates of the Celsian theory formerly appealed to the increase of lands near the mouths of rivers, not sufficiently adverting to the fact, that if the bed of the sea is rising, the change will always be most sensible where the bottom has been previously rendered shallow; whereas, at a distance from these points where the scarped granitic cliffs plunge at once into deep water, a much greater amount of elevation is necessary to produce an equally conspicuous change.

As to the area in northern Europe which is subject to this slow upheaving movement, we have not as yet sufficient data for estimating it correctly. It seems probable, however, that it reaches from Gothenburg to Torneo, and from thence to the North Cape, the rate of elevation increasing always as we proceed farther northwards. The two extremities of this line are more than a thousand geographical miles distant from each other; and as both terminate in the ocean, we know not how much farther the motion may be prolonged under water. As to the breadth of the tract, its limits are equally uncertain, though it evidently extends across the widest parts of the Gulf of Bothnia, and may probably stretch far into the interior, both of Sweden and Finland. Now if the elevation continue, a larger part of the Gulf of Bothnia will be turned into land, as also more of the ocean off the west coast of Sweden between Gothenburg and Uddevalla; and on the other hand, if the change has been going on for thousands of years at the rate of several feet in a century, large tracts of what is now land must have been submarine at periods comparatively modern. It is natural therefore to inquire whether there are any signs of the recent sojourn of the sea on districts now inland? The answer is most satisfactory.--Near Uddevalla and the neighboring coastland, we find upraised deposits of sh.e.l.ls belonging to species such as now live in the ocean; while on the opposite or eastern side of Sweden, near Stockholm, Gefle, and other places bordering the Bothnian Gulf, there are a.n.a.logous beds containing sh.e.l.ls of species characteristic of the Baltic.

Von Buch announced in 1807, that he had discovered in Norway and at Uddevalla in Sweden, beds of sh.e.l.ls of existing species, at considerable heights above the sea. Since that time, other naturalists have confirmed his observation; and, according to Strom, deposits occur at an elevation of more than 400 feet above the sea in the northern part of Norway. M. Alex. Brongniart, when he visited Uddevalla, ascertained that one of the princ.i.p.al ma.s.ses of sh.e.l.ls, that of Capellbacken, is raised more than 200 feet above the sea, resting on rocks of gneiss, all the species being identical with those now inhabiting the contiguous ocean.

The same naturalist also stated, that on examining with care the surface of the gneiss, immediately above the ancient sh.e.l.ly deposit, he found barnacles (_balani_) adhering to the rocks, showing that the sea had remained there for a long time. I was fortunate enough to be able to verify this observation by finding in the summer of 1834, at Kured, about two miles north of Uddevalla, and at the height of more than 100 feet above the sea, a surface of gneiss newly laid open by the partial removal of a ma.s.s of sh.e.l.ls used largely in the district for making lime and repairing the roads. So firmly did these barnacles adhere to the gneiss, that I broke off portions of the rock with the sh.e.l.ls attached.

The face of the gneiss was also incrusted with small zoophytes (_Cellepora?_ Lam.); but had these or the barnacles been exposed in the atmosphere ever since the elevation of the rocks above the sea, they would doubtless have decomposed and been obliterated.