[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE IV

VIEW OF THE VAL DEL BOVE, ETNA, AS SEEN FROM ABOVE, OR FROM THE CRATER OF 1819]

_Scenery of the Val del Bove._--Let the reader picture to himself a large amphitheatre, five miles in diameter, and surrounded on three sides by precipices from 2000 to 3000 feet in height. If he has beheld that most picturesque scene in the chain of the Pyrenees, the celebrated "cirque of Gavarnie," he may form some conception of the magnificent circle of precipitous rocks which inclose, on three sides, the great plain of the Val del Bove. This plain has been deluged by repeated streams of lava; and although it appears almost level, when viewed from a distance, it is, in fact, more uneven than the surface of the most tempestuous sea. Besides the minor irregularities of the lava, the valley is in one part interrupted by a ridge of rocks, two of which, Musara and Capra, are very prominent. It can hardly be said that they

----"like giants stand To sentinel enchanted land;"

for although, like the Trosachs, in the Highlands of Scotland, they are of gigantic dimensions, and appear almost isolated, as seen from many points, yet the stern and severe grandeur of the scenery which they adorn is not such as would be selected by a poet for a vale of enchantment. The character of the scene would accord far better with Milton's picture of the infernal world; and if we imagine ourselves to behold in motion, in the darkness of the night, one of those fiery currents which have so often traversed the great valley, we may well recall

----"yon dreary plain, forlorn and wild, The seat of desolation, void of light, Save what the glimmering of these livid flames Casts pale and dreadful."

The face of the precipices already mentioned is broken in the most picturesque manner by the vertical walls of lava which traverse them.

These ma.s.ses visually stand out in relief, are exceedingly diversified in form, and of immense alt.i.tude. In the autumn, their black outline may often be seen relieved by clouds of fleecy vapor which settle behind them, and do not disperse until mid-day, continuing to fill the valley while the sun is shining on every other part of Sicily, and on the higher regions of Etna.

As soon as the vapors begin to rise, the changes of scene are varied in the highest degree, different rocks being unveiled and hidden by turns, and the summit of Etna often breaking through the clouds for a moment with its dazzling snows, and being then as suddenly withdrawn from the view.

An unusual silence prevails; for there are no torrents dashing from the rocks, nor any movement of running water in this valley such as may almost invariably be heard in mountainous regions. Every drop of water that falls from the heavens, or flows from the melting ice and snow, is instantly absorbed by the porous lava; and such is the dearth of springs, that the herdsman is compelled to supply his flocks, during the hot season, from stores of snow laid up in hollows of the mountain during winter.

The strips of green herbage and forest land, which have here and there escaped the burning lavas, serve, by contrast, to heighten the desolation of the scene. When I visited the valley, nine years after the eruption of 1819, I saw hundreds of trees, or rather the white skeletons of trees, on the borders of the black lava, the trunks and branches being all leafless, and deprived of their bark by the scorching heat emitted from the melted rock; an image recalling those beautiful lines:--

----"As when heaven's fire Hath scath'd the forest oaks, or mountain pines, With singed top their stately growth, though bare, Stands on the blasted heath."

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 49.

Dikes at the base of the Serre del Solfizio, Etna.]

_Form, composition, and origin of the dikes._--But without indulging the imagination any longer in descriptions of scenery, I may observe that the dikes before mentioned form unquestionably the most interesting geological phenomenon in the Val del Bove. Some of these are composed of trachyte, others of compact blue basalt with olivine. They vary in breadth from two to twenty feet and upwards, and usually project from the face of the cliffs, as represented in the annexed drawing (fig. 49).

They consist of harder materials than the strata which they traverse, and therefore waste away less rapidly under the influence of that repeated congelation and thawing to which the rocks in this zone of Etna are exposed. The dikes are for the most part vertical, but sometimes they run in a tortuous course through the tuffs and breccias, as represented in fig. 50. In the escarpment of Somma, where similar walls of lava cut through alternating beds of sand and scoriae, a coating of coal-black rock, approaching in its nature and appearance to pitchstone, is seen at the contact of the dike with the intersected beds. I did not observe such parting layers at the junction of the Etnean dikes which I examined, but they may perhaps be discoverable.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 50.

Tortuous veins of lava at Punto di Giumento, Etna.]

The geographical position of these dikes is most interesting, as they are very numerous near the head of the Val del Bove, where the cones of 1811 and 1819 were thrown up, as also in that zone of the mountain where lateral eruptions are frequent; whereas in the valley of Calanna, which is below that parallel, and in a region where lateral eruptions are extremely rare, scarcely any dikes are seen, and none whatever still lower in the valley of St. Giacomo. This is precisely what we might have expected, if we consider the vertical fissures now filled with rock to have been the feeders of lateral cones, or, in other words, the channels which gave pa.s.sage to the lava-currents and scoriae that have issued from vents in the forest zone. In other parts of Etna there may be numerous dikes at as low a level as the Valley of Calanna, because the line of lateral eruptions is not everywhere at the same height above the sea; but in the section above alluded to, there appeared to me an obvious connection between the frequency of dikes and of lateral eruptions.

Some fissures may have been filled from above, but I did not see any which, by terminating downwards, gave proof of such an origin. Almost all the isolated ma.s.ses in the Val del Bove, such as Capra, Musara, and others, are traversed by dikes, and may, perhaps, have partly owed their preservation to that circ.u.mstance, if at least the action of occasional floods has been one of the destroying causes in the Val del Bove; for there is nothing which affords so much protection to a ma.s.s of strata against the undermining action of running water as a perpendicular dike of hard rock.

In the accompanying drawing (fig. 51), the flowing of the lavas of 1811 and 1819, between the rocks Finochio, Capra, and Musara, is represented.

The height of the two last-mentioned isolated ma.s.ses has been much diminished by the elevation of their base, caused by these currents.

They may, perhaps, be the remnants of lateral cones which existed before the Val del Bove was formed, and may hereafter be once more buried by the lavas that are now acc.u.mulating in the valley.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 51.

View of the rocks Finochio, Capra, and Musara, Val del Bove.]

From no point of view are the dikes more conspicuous than from the summit of the highest cone of Etna; a view of some of them is given in the annexed drawing. (Fig. 52.)

_Eruption of 1811._--I have alluded to the streams of lava which were poured forth in 1811 and 1819. Gemmellaro, who witnessed these eruptions, informs us that the great crater in 1811 first testified by its loud detonations that a column of lava had ascended to near the summit of the mountain. A violent shock was then felt, and a stream broke out from the side of the cone, at no great distance from its apex.

Shortly after this had ceased to flow, a second stream burst forth at another opening, considerably below the first; then a third still lower, and so on till seven different issues had been thus successively formed, all lying upon the same straight line. It has been supposed that this line was a perpendicular rent in the internal framework of the mountain, which rent was probably not produced at one shock, but prolonged successively downwards, by the lateral pressure and intense heat of the internal column of lava, as it subsided by gradual discharge through each vent.[568]

_Eruption of 1819._--In 1819 three large mouths or caverns opened very near those which were formed in the eruptions of 1811, from which flames, red-hot cinders, and sand were thrown up with loud explosions. A few minutes afterwards another mouth opened below, from which flames and smoke issued; and finally a fifth, lower still, whence a torrent of lava flowed, which spread itself with great velocity over the deep and broad valley called "Val del Bove." This stream flowed two miles in the first twenty-four hours, and nearly as far in the succeeding day and night. The three original mouths at length united into one large crater, and sent forth lava, as did the inferior apertures, so that an enormous torrent poured down the "Val del Bove." When it arrived at a vast and almost perpendicular precipice, at the head of the Valley of Calanna, it poured over in a cascade, and, being hardened in its descent, made an inconceivable crash as it was dashed against the bottom. So immense was the column of dust raised by the abrasion of the tufaceous hill over which the hardened ma.s.s descended, that the Catanians were in great alarm, supposing a new eruption to have burst out in the woody region, exceeding in violence that near the summit of Etna.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 52.

View from the summit of Etna into the Val del Bove.[569]]

_Mode of advance of the lava._--Of the cones thrown up during this eruption, not more than two are of sufficient magnitude to be numbered among those eighty which were before described as adorning the flanks of Etna. The surface of the lava which deluged the "Val del Bove," consists of rocky and _angular blocks_, tossed together in the utmost disorder.

Nothing can be more rugged, or more unlike the smooth and even superficies, which those who are unacquainted with volcanic countries may have pictured to themselves, in a ma.s.s of matter which had consolidated from a liquid state. Mr. Scrope observed this current in the year 1819, slowly advancing down a considerable slope, at the rate of about a yard an hour, nine months after its emission. The lower stratum being arrested by the resistance of the ground, the upper or central part gradually protruded itself, and, being unsupported, fell down. This in its turn was covered by a ma.s.s of more liquid lava, which swelled over it from above. The current had all the appearance of a huge heap of rough and large cinders rolling over and over upon itself by the effect of an extremely slow propulsion from behind. The contraction of the crust as it solidified, and the friction of the scoriform cakes against one another, produced a crackling sound. Within the crevices a dull red heat might be seen by night, and vapor issuing in considerable quant.i.ty was visible by day.[570]

It was stated that when the lava of 1819 arrived at the head of the Valley of Calanna, after flowing down the Val del Bove, it descended in a cascade. This stream, in fact, like many previous currents of lava which have flowed down successively from the higher regions of Etna, was turned by a great promontory projecting from the southern side of the Val del Bove. This promontory consists of the hills called Zocolaro and Calanna, and of a ridge of inferior height which connects them. (See fig. 53.)

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 53.

A, Zocolaro.

B, Monte di Calanna.

C, Plain at the head of the Valley of Calanna.

_a_, Lava of 1819 descending the precipice and flowing through the valley.

_b_, Lavas of 1811 and 1819 flowing round the hill of Calanna.]

It happened in 1811 and 1819 that the flows of lava overtopped the ridge intervening between the hills of Zocolaro and Calanna, so that they fell in a cascade over a lofty precipice, and began to fill up the valley of Calanna (_a_, fig. 53). Other portions of the same lava-current (_b_) flowed round the promontory, and they exhibit one of the peculiar characteristics of such streams, namely that of becoming solid externally, even while yet in motion. Instead of thinning out gradually at their edges, their sides may often be compared to two rocky walls which are sometimes inclined at an angle of between thirty and forty degrees. When such streams are turned from their course by a projecting rock, they move right onwards in a new direction; and in the Valley of Calanna a considerable s.p.a.ce has thus been left between the steep sides of the lavas _b b_, so deflected, and the precipitous escarpment of Zocolaro, A, which bounds the plain C.

_Lavas and breccias._--In regard to the volcanic ma.s.ses which are intersected by dikes in the Val del Bove, they consist in great part of graystone lavas, of an intermediate character between basalt and trachyte, and partly of porphyritic lava resembling trachyte, but to which that name cannot, according to Von Buch and G. Rose, be in strictness applied, because the felspar belongs to the variety called Labradorite. There is great similarity in the composition of the ancient and modern lavas of Etna, both consisting of felspar, augite, olivine, and t.i.taniferous iron. The alternating breccias are made up of scoriae, sand, and angular blocks of lava. Many of these fragments may have been thrown out by volcanic explosions, which, falling on the hardened surface of moving lava-currents, may have been carried to a considerable distance. It may also happen that when lava advances very slowly, in the manner of the flow of 1819, the angular ma.s.ses resulting from the frequent breaking of the ma.s.s as it rolls over upon itself, may produce these breccias. It is at least certain that the upper portion of the lava-currents of 1811 and 1819 now consist of angular ma.s.ses to the depth of many yards. D'Aubuisson has compared the surface of one of the ancient lavas of Auvergne to that of a river suddenly frozen over by the stoppage of immense fragments of drift-ice, a description perfectly applicable to these modern Etnean flows. The thickness of the separate beds of conglomerate or breccia which are seen in the same vertical section, is often extremely different, varying from 3 to nearly 50 feet, as I observed in the hill of Calanna.

_Flood produced by the melting of snow by lava._--It is possible that some of the breccias or conglomerates may be referred to aqueous causes, as great floods occasionally sweep down the flanks of Etna, when eruptions take place in winter, and when the snows are melted by lava.

It is true that running water in general exerts no power on Etna, the rain which falls being immediately imbibed by the porous lavas; so that, vast as is the extent of the mountain, it feeds only a few small rivulets, and these, even, are dry throughout the greater portion of the year. The enormous rounded boulders, therefore, of felspar-porphyry and basalt, a line of which can be traced from the sea, from near Giardini, by Mascali, and Zafarana, to the "Val del Bove," would offer a perplexing problem to the geologist, if history had not preserved the memorials of a tremendous flood which happened in this district in the year 1755. It appears that two streams of lava flowed in that year, on the 2d of March, from the highest crater; they were immediately precipitated upon an enormous ma.s.s of snow which then covered the whole mountain, and was extremely deep near the summit. The sudden melting of this frozen ma.s.s, by a fiery torrent three miles in length, produced a frightful inundation, which devastated the sides of the mountain for eight miles in length, and afterwards covered the lower flanks of Etna, where they were less steep, together with the plains near the sea, with great deposits of sand, scoriae, and blocks of lava.

Many absurd stories circulated in Sicily respecting this event; such as that the water was boiling, and that it was vomited from the highest crater; that it was as salt as the sea, and full of marine sh.e.l.ls; but these were mere inventions, to which Recupero, although he relates them as tales of the mountaineers, seems to have attached rather too much importance.

Floods of considerable violence have also been produced on Etna by the fall of heavy rains, aided, probably, by the melting of snow. By this cause alone, in 1761, sixty of the inhabitants of Acicatena were killed, and many of their houses swept away.[571]

_Glacier covered by a lava-stream._--A remarkable discovery was made on Etna in 1828 of a great ma.s.s of ice, preserved for many years, perhaps for centuries, from melting, by the singular accident of a current of red-hot lava having flowed over it. The following are the facts in attestation of a phenomenon which must at first sight appear of so paradoxical a character. The extraordinary heat experienced in the South of Europe, during the summer and autumn of 1828, caused the supplies of snow and ice which had been preserved in the spring of that year, for the use of Catania and the adjoining parts of Sicily and the island of Malta, to fail entirely. Great distress was consequently felt for want of a commodity regarded in those countries as one of the necessaries of life rather than an article of luxury, and the abundance of which contributes in some of the larger cities to the salubrity of the water and the general health of the community. The magistrates of Catania applied to Signor M. Gemmellaro, in the hope that his local knowledge of Etna might enable him to point out some crevice or natural grotto on the mountain, where drift-snow was still preserved. Nor were they disappointed; for he had long suspected that a small ma.s.s of perennial ice at the foot of the highest cone was part of a large and continuous glacier covered by a lava-current. Having procured a large body of workmen, he quarried into this ice, and proved the superposition of the lava for several hundred yards, so as completely to satisfy himself that nothing but the subsequent flowing of the lava over the ice could account for the position of the glacier. Unfortunately for the geologist, the ice was so extremely hard, and the excavation so expensive, that there is no probability of the operations being renewed.

On the first of December, 1828, I visited this spot, which is on the southeast side of the cone, and not far above the Casa Inglese; but the fresh snow had already nearly filled up the new opening, so that it had only the appearance of the mouth of a grotto. I do not, however, question the accuracy of the conclusion of Signer Gemmellaro, who, being well acquainted with all the appearances of drift-snow in the fissures and cavities of Etna, had recognized, even before the late excavations, the peculiarity of the position of the ice in this locality. We may suppose that, at the commencement of the eruption, a deep ma.s.s of drift-snow had been covered by volcanic sand showered down upon it before the descent of the lava. A dense stratum of this fine dust mixed with scoriae is well known to be an extremely bad conductor of heat; and the shepherds in the higher regions of Etna are accustomed to provide water for their flocks during summer, by strewing a layer of volcanic sand a few inches thick over the snow, which effectually prevents the heat of the sun from penetrating.

Suppose the ma.s.s of snow to have been preserved from liquefaction until the lower part of the lava had consolidated, we may then readily conceive that a glacier thus protected, at the height of ten thousand feet above the level of the sea, would endure as long as the snows of Mont Blanc, unless melted by volcanic heat from below. When I visited the great crater in the beginning of winter (December 1st, 1828), I found the crevices in the interior incrusted with thick ice, and in some cases hot vapors were actually streaming out between ma.s.ses of ice and the rugged and steep walls of the crater.[572]

After the discovery of Signor Gemmellaro, it would not be surprising to find in the cones of the Icelandic volcanoes, which are covered for the most part with perpetual snow, repeated alternations of lava-streams and glaciers. We have, indeed, Lieutenant Kendall's authority for the fact that Deception Island, in New South Shetland, lat. 62 55' S., is princ.i.p.ally composed of alternate layers of volcanic ashes and ice.[573]

_Origin of the Val del Bove._--It is recorded, as will be stated in the history of earthquakes (ch. 29), that in the year 1772 a great subsidence took place on Papandayang, the largest volcano in the island of Java; an extent of ground _fifteen miles in length_, _and six in breadth_, covered by no less than forty villages, was engulphed, and the cone lost 4000 feet of its height. In like manner the summit of Carguairazo, one of the loftiest of the Andes of Quito, fell in on the 19th July, 1698; and another mountain of still greater alt.i.tude in the same chain, called Capac Urcu, a short time before the conquest of America by the Spaniards.

It will also be seen in the next chapter that, so late as the year 1822, during a violent earthquake and volcanic eruption in Java, one side of the mountain called Galongoon, which was covered by a dense forest, became an enormous gulf in the form of a semicircle. The new cavity was about midway between the summit and the plain, and surrounded by steep rocks.