Old and New Paris - Part 14
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Part 14

The Lieutenant of Police, accompanied by an army of commissaries, sergeants, and constables, had invaded and seized the ma.n.u.script of _The False Prude_. Jherardi, the harlequin of the troupe, hurried to Versailles, where he begged and entreated, but without being able to move Louis XIV., who had so many times protected the Italian comedians.

"You came to France on foot," said the king, "and you have gained enough here to go back in carriages."

During their stay in Paris the Italian actors expelled by Louis XIV.

had accustomed themselves to play in French, and the celebrated comedy writer, Regnard, had entrusted them with several of his pieces. This rendered them more than ever disliked by the French actors, with whom they were always in rivalry. The pieces performed by the Italian actors consisted for the most part, and always when they confined themselves to their own language, of mere dramatic sketches, for which dialogue was supplied by the actors themselves.

It was not until 1716 that the Italian actors re-appeared in France, and they now played at a theatre in the Palais Royal, occupied alternately by them and by the company of the Grand Opera. In time the Italian company varied their pieces, and even introduced songs in the midst of the dialogue. This at once exposed them to attacks from the Opera, or Academie Royale de Musique, as it was called; and in conformity with the privileges secured to the Opera, the Italians were forbidden to sing.

Soon afterwards they produced a piece in which a donkey was brought on to the stage and made to bray, whereupon one of the actors cried out to the animal, "Silence! singing is forbidden on these boards."

Ultimately, as the result of much opposition and many minatory decrees, an arrangement was made between the Italian actors and a company of French actors and singers which led to the establishment of the French Opera Comique.

At last the Italian and the French actors played together; but French wit and Italian wit were said not to harmonise, and in order to simplify matters, the Italians, with the exception of one or two who had adopted the French language, were sent out of the country. The theatre now given up to French comic opera continued, however, to be called the Theatre Italien, to receive afterwards, in memory of Mme. Favart and her husband, the t.i.tle of Salle Favart, and at a later period, under the Republic, that of Opera Comique.

The performances of the Italians came permanently to an end in 1783. In spite of the jealousy with which they were regarded by the great bulk of the theatrical profession, the Italian actors had an excellent effect on the development of the French stage, which, when the first troupe of Gelosi arrived in Paris, had no substantial existence. Moliere profited much by their performances and borrowed freely from their productions, taking from them, according to his well-known saying, "his property"

(that is to say, all that naturally belonged to him through affinity and sympathy) wherever "he found it." Apart from many other subjects and scenes, Moliere borrowed his version of _Don Juan_ from the Italians.

Much of it, including most of its philosophy and wit, belongs in the very fullest sense to the great comic dramatist of France. But the very t.i.tle, _Festin de Pierre_--an incorrect and, indeed, unintelligible translation of _Il Convitato de Pietra_--is enough to show the origin of Moliere's admirable work.

The new establishment had been only ten years on the Boulevard des Italiens when its name was altered definitely from Comedie Italienne to Opera Comique. A few years later the establishment was moved to the Rue Feydeau, where it was destined to enjoy a long life and a merry one. Meanwhile, the house which had given its ancient name to the Italian boulevard remained unoccupied--or but rarely occupied--for some considerable time, until, in 1815, the celebrated Catalani opened it for serious Italian opera.

The Theatre des Italiens now became the most fashionable theatre in Paris. Here Madames Pasta, Malibran, Grisi, Persiani, MM. Rubini, Tamburini, Lablache, etc., were heard. Here, too, Rossini for a time acted as musical director.

This theatre, like all others, was soon destined to perish by fire; and Italian opera has of late years led a somewhat wandering life in France, to find itself ultimately without any home at all.

The early history of the Opera Comique, from the middle of the eighteenth until the first days of the nineteenth century, is sufficiently represented by the lives of two of its most distinguished ornaments: Mme. Favart and her successor in parts of the same kind, Mme. Dugazon. Mme. Favart--Duronceray by her maiden name--was the wife of Charles Simon Favart, the well-known dramatist, who for many years supplied the Opera Comique with all its good pieces. The marriage took place in 1745, and immediately afterwards the Opera Comique, as an establishment recognised and subventioned by the State, was suppressed.

Favart had some time before made the acquaintance of Marshal Saxe, who may be said to have played almost as great a part in connection with the stage as with the camp; and he was now invited by the famous commander to organise a company for giving performances at the head-quarters, and for the entertainment of the army in Flanders generally. Favart hurried to Brussels, where Marshal Saxe was about to arrive; and on reaching the head-quarters, the commander-in-chief gave an entertainment to the ladies whose husbands were serving on his staff, and to the wives generally of the officers. The performance consisted of national dances by the Highland contingent, whose scanty costumes are said to have at once amused and scandalised the ladies. Then a piece of Favart's was played; and with so much success, that it became the fashion to attend Favart representations as often as they were given. Marshal Saxe told Favart that it was part of his policy to give theatrical entertainments, and the manager soon saw that his musical comedies interested the officers sufficiently to take them away from cards and dice, to which previously they had given themselves up with only too much devotion.

The marshal pointed out to Favart, moreover, that a lively couplet, a few happy lines, would have more effect on French soldiers than the most eloquent harangues. Besides amusing his own people and keeping them out of mischief, Marshal Saxe found Favart's Comic Opera Company useful in promoting his negotiations with the enemy. Having heard of the Favart performances, the enemy desired much to see them; and the representations given in the enemy's camp had no slight effect in facilitating peace arrangements. Mme. Favart--Mlle. Chantilly, to describe her by her stage name--was a member of the operatic company engaged by the marshal to follow the army of Flanders; and the commander-in-chief--as, with a man of his well-known temperament, was sure to happen--fell in love with the charming _prima donna_. Mme.

Favart was at last obliged to make her escape, and, forsaking the camp, returned to the capital. Here she appeared at the so-called Italian Theatre, which was really the Opera Comique under another name.

That Mme. Favart was greater as an actress than as a vocalist (which may be said of so many singers who have distinguished themselves at the Opera Comique of Paris) is beyond doubt. "She is not a singer,"

said Gretry, the composer; "she is an actress who speaks song with the truest and most pa.s.sionate accent." "What a wonderful woman!" exclaimed Boieldieu, after a representation of his _Caliph of Bagdad_. "They say she does not know music; yet I never heard anyone sing with such taste and expression, such nature and fidelity."

Boieldieu, through Auber, his successor, brings us to modern times.

With Ambroise Thomas, the composer of _Mignon_, and Bizet, the composer of _Carmen_, the Opera Comique has always been the most French of all the French musical theatres. At the Grand Opera, or Academie, nearly all the successful works have been composed by foreigners: by Lulli, Gluck, Piccinni, Spontini, Rossini, Meyerbeer, Donizetti, and Verdi. The most popular works at the Opera Comique have, on the other hand, been composed by Frenchmen. _La Dame Blanche_, for instance, of Boieldieu; the _Fra Diavolo_, _The Black Domino_, _The Crown Diamonds_ of Auber; the _Mignon_ of Ambroise Thomas, and the _Carmen_ of Bizet, have all been due to the genius of Frenchmen.

The Opera Comique, since its formal separation from all connection with Italy, has itself had strange and tragic adventures. The last of these was its destruction by a terrible fire, in which more than one hundred lives were lost. Since this catastrophe, which took place on the 22nd of May, 1887, the Opera Comique has been provisionally established in the Place du Chatelet.

To make an inevitable excursion which here presents itself, the Rue Monsigny, deriving its name from one of the most famous composers connected with the Opera Comique, will always be remembered as the head-quarters of the Saint-Simonians during the first meeting of that strange a.s.sociation, founded by Saint-Simon, lineal descendant of the duke who wrote the famous _Memoirs_. The aims of the Saint-Simonians, visionary as they may have been, were at least n.o.ble; and the society numbered among its members some of the most able and high-minded young men of the day. The truth of this latter a.s.sertion is proved by the distinguished part played by many of the Saint-Simonians in very different spheres after the society had come to an end.

Michel Chevalier, the political economist, Duveyrier, the dramatist, and Felicien David, the composer, may be mentioned among those Saint-Simonians whose names will be familiar to many Englishmen.

Saint-Simon, founder of the sect named after him, began his self-imposed career with a sufficiently large fortune to enable him to test various modes of existence. His purpose was, after studying society, to reform it. He had resolved to study it thoroughly in all its phases: all those, at least, which offered any special intellectual or physical character. Without apparently having conceived any system beforehand, he was constantly working towards one, making observations and writing down notes. That he might waste no time from sluggishness or sloth, he ordered his servant to wake him every morning with these significant words: "Rise, Count; you have great things to do." (_Levez-vous, Monsieur le Comte, vous avez de grandes choses a faire._) The great political principle that he ultimately adopted was that "all legislation should be for the benefit of the poorest and most numerous cla.s.s," which was little more than a variation of Jeremy Bentham's "greatest good of the greatest number."

He lived in aristocratic society a life of pleasure, studied science among scientific men, and finally, occupying himself with books and newspapers, made himself the centre of all kinds of literary gatherings. When, however, he had, according to his own previously formed conception, completed his knowledge of life, he had exhausted his means of living, and was quite unable to turn to account his acc.u.mulated experience. The descendant of the proud duke could only keep himself alive by copying ma.n.u.scripts and by doing clerk's work in the Government p.a.w.n Office, or _Mont-de-Piete_. At last his misfortunes were too great for him, and he endeavoured to commit suicide. But the bullet with which he had intended to blow his brains out glanced along the frontal bone and destroyed one of his eyes, without inflicting any mortal wound. The unhappy experimentalist had now had a bitter experience of poverty, which may or may not have been in his general programme. His enthusiasm ended in any case by inspiring a few rich men who possessed the money necessary for carrying out his ideas.

Saint-Simon's mantle fell upon Le Pere Enfantin, who presided over the Saint-Simonian family in the Rue Monsigny, until pecuniary embarra.s.sments caused the learned and venerable father to give up the publication of the admirably written Saint-Simonian journal, _The Globe_, and to retire from a house for which, unhappily, rent had to be paid, to a house and garden of his own at Menilmontant. Here he collected around him forty disciples, determined to work together under Le Pere Enfantin's direction. "Poets, musicians, artists, engineers, civil and military," says a writer, fully in sympathy with the Saint-Simonians, even if he was not himself a member of their body, "applied themselves by turns to the hardest and rudest labours.

"They repaired the house, regularly swept and kept in order the rooms, offices, and courtyard, cultivated the grounds, covered the walks with gravel, which they procured from a pit they had themselves with much toil opened, and so on. To prove that their ideas upon the nature of marriage and the emanc.i.p.ation of women were not founded upon the calculations of a voluptuous selfishness, they imposed upon themselves the law of strict celibacy. Every morning and evening they refreshed their minds with the discourses of Le Pere Enfantin, or sought in the life of one of the Christian saints, read aloud by one of them to the rest, examples, precepts, encouragement. Hymns, the music to which had been composed by one of their number, M. Felicien David, served to exalt their souls, while soothing their labour. At five o'clock the horn announced dinner. The workmen then piled their tools, ranged the wheelbarrows round the garden, and took their places, after having chanted in chorus the prayer before meat. All this the public were admitted to see: a spectacle in which a sneering, jesting nation only marked the singular features, by turns simple and sublime, but which was a.s.suredly deficient in neither broad aim nor in abstract grandeur.

For in this practice of theirs the apostles of Menilmontant went far beyond their own theories, and were sowing around them unconsciously the seeds of doctrine which were destined one day to throw their own into oblivion."

It was on the 6th of June, amidst the roar of the cannon in the Rue Saint-Mery, and not far from the b.l.o.o.d.y theatre whence arose the cries of the combatants--it was on this very 6th of June that for the first time since they had entered it, the Saint-Simonian family threw open the doors of their retreat. "At half-past one," writes M. Louis Blanc, "they were a.s.sembled, standing in a circle in front of the house, while outside a second circle, formed of those whom the inmates of Menilmontant termed the exterior family, was a small group of spectators, attracted by the curiosity of the thing."

No sooner had the Government suppressed the formidable insurrection, which was finally stamped out in its last retreat at the corner of the Rue Saint-Mery, than, as if to a.s.sert the authority it had gained, it commenced proceedings against the Saint-Simonians, a n.o.ble-minded, highly moral body of men, who were accused, nevertheless, of spreading immoral doctrines. In his defence, Le Pere Enfantin admitted, while rejecting with indignation the charge of immoral teaching, that one of the main objects of Saint-Simonianism was the reorganisation of property. "The misery," he said, "of the working cla.s.ses and the wealth of idle men are the main causes of the evils we seek to remedy. But when we say that there ought to be an end to that hereditary misery and hereditary idleness which are the results of the existing const.i.tution of property, founded, as it is, on the right of birth, our opponents charge us with an intention of overturning the State.

"It is of no use for us to urge that this transformation of property can only be effected progressively, pacifically, voluntarily: that it can be effected much better than was the destruction of feudal rights, with every imaginable system of indemnity, and with even greater deliberation than you apply to the expropriations which you now effect for purposes of public utility: we are not listened to; we are condemned off-hand as reckless disturbers of order. Unweariedly we seek to show you that this transformation is called for by all the present and future wants of society: that its actual progress is marked out in the most palpable manner by the creation of the code of commerce, by all the habits of industry which have sprung up on every side, encouraging the mobilisation of property, its transference from the idle and incapable to the laborious and capable hand; we show you all this, but still you cry out, shutting your eyes, 'Your a.s.sociation is dangerous!'"

In the end Enfantin, Duveyrier, and Michel Chevalier were condemned to a year's imprisonment and a fine of a hundred francs each, other less prominent members being let off with smaller degrees of punishment.

Simonianism, as an organised thing, was now extinct, but its principles did not die with the organisation, and in the best forms of socialism and of democracy were soon to show themselves anew.

The Rue Marivaux, another of the most interesting outlets from this part of the Boulevards, commemorates the witty and agreeable comedy writer who invented the half bantering, half complimentary style of dialogue to which the name of "marivaudage" is given.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE 6TH OF JUNE: THE LAST OF THE INSURRECTION.]

CHAPTER XII.

THE BOULEVARDS (_continued_).

La Maison Doree--Librairie Nouvelle--Catherine II. and the Encyclopaedia--The House of Madeleine Guimard.

At the corner of the Rue Marivaux stands the Cafe Anglais, now the only one remaining of the historical Paris restaurants, which for the most part date their reputation from the years 1814 and 1815, when the European Allies had their head-quarters in the French capital.

The invasions which restored the French Monarchy, and which had been undertaken with no other object, brought defeat, but at the same time prosperity and gaiety to Paris; whereas the invasion of 1870 and 1871 caused nothing but misery to the vanquished. During the early days of the Restoration such houses as Les Trois Freres Provencaux, in the Palais Royal, La Maison Doree, the Cafe Riche, and the still extant Cafe Anglais, did a magnificent trade, thanks to the number of Prussian, Russian, Austrian, and English officers who frequented them, and who, after the toils of war, abandoned themselves willingly to some of the joys of peace.

Most of these famous restaurants sprang from wine-shops; for it is a fact that every celebrated dining-place in Paris has owed its reputation primarily to the quality of its wine. The three brothers from Provence who started the restaurant known under their name were simply three young men who, having vineyards of their own and a connection with other wine-growers, maintained an excellent cellar. But when people came in to taste its contents it was absolutely necessary, in order to render appreciable the flavour of the wine, to give them something to eat.

Then, as they spent their money freely, it was found possible and even desirable to engage a first-rate cook; until at last the reputation of the cellar was equalled by that of the kitchen.

Who has not read of Les Trois Freres Provencaux in Balzac's "Scenes from Paris Life"? It was in one of their upstairs rooms, moreover, facing the garden of the Palais Royal, that the hero of Alfred de Musset's "Enfant du Siecle" had his last sad interview, his last sad meal, with the young woman from whom he was about to separate for ever.

La Maison Doree, too, was a famous house. The scene of many an orgie, it kept its doors open continuously. Here it was that M. de Camors, in Octave Feuillet's novel of that name, at the end of an extremely late supper threw a gold piece into the mud and told a ragpicker who happened to be pa.s.sing that if he would pull it out with his teeth he could have it for himself; and who does not remember how, so soon as the _chiffonnier_ had performed this feat, the dissipated but not altogether degraded gentleman begged the poor man to knock him down in return for the insult offered to him.

La Maison Doree used to be kept by a proprietor named Hardy, and the fact that the neighbouring cafe and restaurant, of almost equal celebrity and dearness, belonged to a Monsieur Riche, whose name it bore, gave rise to the saying that a man must be "_tres riche pour diner chez Hardy, et tres hardi pour diner chez Riche_."

The Cafe Riche used to be the favourite dining place of Jules Janin on evenings of first performances. Here on these interesting occasions he was always to be seen; and the usual genial tone of his criticisms was possibly attributable to the excellence of M. Riche's chef. Not, however, that Janin wrote his notices of new plays the same night. He published them week by week in the _feuilleton_ of the _Journal des Debats_, afterwards to be corrected and published under the t.i.tle of "Questionable History of Dramatic Literature."

The Cafe Riche was never such a late house as La Maison Doree, which went on day by day and year by year, never closing, regardless of the clock. Thus it was at once the earliest and the latest of Paris taverns; and if it was possible to get supper there at 3 or 4 o'clock in the morning after a dull evening party, a traveller was equally sure that the place would be open when, arriving at Paris by train at, say, 6 in the morning, the vacuum in his stomach demanded an immediate breakfast.

A story is told of a gentleman who, living immediately opposite the side entrance of La Maison Doree, dedicated to this famous hostelry all the time he did not spend in bed. Rising extremely late, he turned into the Maison Doree towards four in the afternoon to look at the papers, converse with some of the frequenters, take a preparatory gla.s.s of absinthe, and finally dine--this being, of course, the great event of his well-spent day. His dinner began at an advanced hour of the evening, and lasted well into the night. Then he was joined by friends from the theatre bent on supping; and it was not till towards sunrise that he returned to his apartments over the way.

Unlike the Temple of Ja.n.u.s, which was never shut in time of war, the Maison Doree could only keep its doors open in time of peace. Such war, at all events, as the Prussians brought to the gates of Paris and to Paris itself in 1870 and 1871 was fatal to its existence. Since those terrible years Paris has lost something of its gaiety and frivolity. The Cafe Anglais still exists; but even at this celebrated supping-place of former years supper is now an unknown meal. Nothing is served in the Cafe Anglais after nine o'clock. This cafe, oddly enough, seems to have been named after a nation which in the year 1815 can scarcely have been popular among the French. Its origin, or at least its name, dates from the year of the Waterloo campaign, and, strangely enough, it is the only great restaurant of that period which to this day survives. Possibly the establishment was not called Cafe Anglais merely by way of invitation to the English portion of the occupying forces. The t.i.tle may have been meant to indicate that the service of the table was conducted after the English rather than the French fashion. The French, it must be admitted, preceded us in the matter of napkins, and also, if their boast on the subject can be admitted, in the earlier use of four-p.r.o.nged forks, made by preference of silver. But in the year 1815 the French knew nothing of salt-spoons; and though plates were changed frequently enough, the same knife and fork served throughout the various courses, the diner cleaning on a piece of bread a knife which did duty for every dish which came on the table. It replaced the salt-spoon, and was frequently used for conveying food to the mouth. Not only English dining-places, but English hotels were highly esteemed in 1815; and Dr. Veron, in his "Memoires d'un Bourgeois de Paris," speaks of cleanliness as an English invention unknown to the French until the peace which followed the Napoleonic wars.

In the art of living the French have generally been considered by the rest of Europe to have reached the greatest proficiency; and their methods and customs have accordingly been more imitated than those of any other nation. Of their cookery there is but one opinion; for every man in Europe who can afford a great table keeps either a French cook or a cook educated in the French school. The variety given by French cooks to the very simplest dish is too well known to require emphasis; and even Macaulay quotes the story of that Parisian chef who could make twelve different dishes out of a poppy-head.

In the matter of table as of drawing-room etiquette the French in Arthur Young's time seem to have been both superior and inferior to the English. It is true that the French artisan would not dine without a clean napkin on his knee; but it is equally true that the French aristocrat would sometimes spit about the floor in presence of a d.u.c.h.ess with a freedom which would be resented in any English tap-room.

If Paris be really "the Tavern of Europe," the Cafe Anglais is at this moment the Tavern of Paris. Scarcely any foreigner of distinction visits the French capital without dining, perhaps even by special arrangement supping, at the Cafe Anglais, which is now under the management, not of an enterprising landlord, but of a well-regulated Limited Liability Company.