Pennette with Swiss Chard Ragu SERVES 6 PHOTO PASTA.

cup extra virgin olive oil 1 small white onion, halved and sliced inch thick 3 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled 1 pound Swiss chard, trimmed and sliced inch thick Maldon or other flaky sea salt 4 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into 4 pieces Coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper Kosher salt 1 pound pennette cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus extra for serving cup coa.r.s.e fresh bread crumbs, fried in olive oil until golden brown (see Glossary) Combine the oil, onion, garlic, and chard in a large pot and cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion and chard are beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Season well with Maldon salt, add cup water, cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the chard is very tender, about 20 minutes. Add the b.u.t.ter, stirring until it melts, then season with pepper and remove from the heat. (The ragu can be prepared up to 2 days ahead. Let cool, then cover and refrigerate; reheat in a large pot over medium-low heat before adding the pasta.) (The ragu can be prepared up to 2 days ahead. Let cool, then cover and refrigerate; reheat in a large pot over medium-low heat before adding the pasta.)

Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot and add 3 tablespoons kosher salt. Drop in the pasta and cook until just al dente.

Drain the pasta, reserving about cup of the pasta water. Add the pasta and cup of the reserved pasta water to the chard ragu and stir and toss over medium heat until the pasta is well coated (add a splash or two more of the reserved pasta water if necessary to loosen the sauce). Stir in the cheese.

Transfer the pasta to a serving bowl and scatter the bread crumbs over the top. Serve with additional grated Parmigiano on the side.

Penne alla Primavera SERVES 6 PHOTO PASTA.

6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 medium carrots, peeled, halved lengthwise, and sliced inch thick 4 ounces morels, halved if large, or cremini mushrooms, thinly sliced 8 ounces asparagus, stalks sliced inch thick on the bias, tips reserved separately 1 cup fresh or frozen peas, thawed if frozen 1 cup fava beans 4 scallions, white part only, thinly sliced Maldon or other flaky sea salt and coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper Kosher salt 1 pound penne rigate 1/3 cup coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh Italian parsley cup coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh Italian parsley 1/3 cup coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh basil cup coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh basil 1/3 cup coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh mint cup coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh mint Freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano for serving Heat cup of the oil in a large pot over medium-high heat until hot. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until barely golden, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the carrots, reduce the heat to medium, and cook, stirring occasionally, until beginning to soften, about 4 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until beginning to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the sliced asparagus and cook for 2 minutes, then add the asparagus tips, peas, fava beans, and scallions, season well with Maldon salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, until all the vegetables are just tender, about 2 minutes longer. Remove from the heat.

Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in another large pot and add 3 tablespoons kosher salt. Drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook until just al dente. Drain the pasta, reserving cup of the water.

Add the pasta and cup of the reserved pasta water to the vegetables, stirring and tossing over medium heat to mix well. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and allow to steam together for 2 minutes. Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and a splash or two more of the reserved pasta water if necessary to loosen the sauce, then stir in the herbs and serve immediately, with grated Parmigiano on the side.

Penne alla Papalina SERVES 6 PHOTO PASTA.

Kosher salt 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 8 ounces sliced prosciutto, cut into 1-inch squares One 10-ounce package (2 cups) frozen peas, thawed 1 pound penne rigate 4 large eggs 1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus extra for serving Coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot and add 3 tablespoons kosher salt.

Meanwhile, combine 3 tablespoons of the oil and the prosciutto in another large pot and cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until the prosciutto has rendered some of its fat and is golden brown, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the peas.

Drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook until just al dente. Drain, reserving about cup of the pasta water.

Whisk the eggs together in a medium bowl to break them up, then whisk in the remaining 3 tablespoons oil and cup of the reserved pasta water.

Add the pasta to the prosciutto and peas and stir and toss over medium heat to mix well. Add the egg mixture, remove from the heat, and stir and toss vigorously to slightly cook the eggs (add a splash or two more of the reserved pasta water if necessary to loosen the sauce). Stir in the Parmigiano, season with pepper, and serve immediately, with additional grated cheese on the side.

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PIZZA.

If there is one word that describes what the world loves most about Italian food, it has to be a tie between that describes what the world loves most about Italian food, it has to be a tie between pasta pasta and... and...pizza. And while pasta in its infinite possibilities is relatively simple to prepare nearly perfectly at home, the cult of pizza makers, pizza fans, pizza freaks, pizza bloggers and writers, and just plain pizza lovers has together created a walled city within which lies the secret, nearly unachievable, almost never tasted or touched: perfect pizza. There are obsessives about the crust, and its simple but hugely important flour selection; about the tomato sauce; about the cheese and toppings; about the heat source and the cooking temperature; about the equipment, the floor surface, the pizza stone; about the coal-burning or wood-burning stove, the brick wall, and the gas options; and even about the brand of yeast. And while pasta in its infinite possibilities is relatively simple to prepare nearly perfectly at home, the cult of pizza makers, pizza fans, pizza freaks, pizza bloggers and writers, and just plain pizza lovers has together created a walled city within which lies the secret, nearly unachievable, almost never tasted or touched: perfect pizza. There are obsessives about the crust, and its simple but hugely important flour selection; about the tomato sauce; about the cheese and toppings; about the heat source and the cooking temperature; about the equipment, the floor surface, the pizza stone; about the coal-burning or wood-burning stove, the brick wall, and the gas options; and even about the brand of yeast.

There are regional variations in Italy from Naples to Rome, from Tuscany to Sardegna to Sicily. There are variations made in the U.S., from New York slices to Chicago deep-dish, from thin and crispy to the thick-crusted square pizza called Sicilian. There is even pizza made by a large chain with a cheese-stuffed crust and the possibility of adding pasta and French fries to the pizza as a topping. Suffice to say that in the following pages you will learn how to make what I consider to be the best pizza in the world, pizza with a soul, with a history, with a depth of flavor-and definitely without French fries. This is about our own take at Otto Pizzeria in NYC, a hybrid of New York thin-crust pizza with a crisp finish, not too puffy, light and pliant, that can be easily made in an American home kitchen with just a few pieces of equipment.

The recipes we call "cla.s.sica" are based on traditional pies found at our favorite pizzerie in Italy. The "Otto" recipes are pizzas that we created for Otto within the framework of Italian food as we interpret it in NYC. We love our food simple and like to use flavorful things such as fennel or lardo, allowing them to sing their songs in unadorned ways. Like all great Italian food, pizza is a canvas upon which you should happily invent to your heart's desire (just leave out the kiwis, please). And when inventing your new creations, always be careful not to add too much stuff-simpler is better, and less is more.

And then there are our "kids'" pizzas. When we opened Otto, we immediately realized that our own families would be among our best customers, and in an effort to engage them, we asked each child to design his or her favorite pizza. To this day, the pizzas still stand, and one of them is served every day of the week, with each kid's name on the specials list. Some are more popular than others, but each has its own following.

Pizza Dough MAKES ABOUT 2 POUNDS.

Our dough is a little wetter than a standard bread dough, but this style produces the best results with our method of cooking: we use a hot griddle to parcook the pizza crusts. Our pan of choice is my own enameled cast-iron pizza griddle (see Sources), but you can also use a 10-inch enameled cast-iron frying or grilling pan or a smooth cast-iron pancake griddle.

1 cups warm water (95F) One -ounce package active dry yeast 1 teaspoons sugar 3 cups "00" flour Scant 2 tablespoons salt cup extra virgin olive oil Semolina for dusting TO MAKE THE DOUGH: Whisk the warm water, yeast, and sugar together in a bowl ( Whisk the warm water, yeast, and sugar together in a bowl (PHOTO 1). Let stand in a warm place for 10 minutes, or until the yeast is foamy. 1). Let stand in a warm place for 10 minutes, or until the yeast is foamy.

Combine the flour and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook and mix well. With the mixer on low, add the yeast mixture and oil, mixing well (PHOTO 2). Continue to mix, gradually increasing the mixer speed to medium-high, until the dough is smooth and elastic. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and give it a few turns by hand to finish kneading it; it will still be slightly sticky. 2). Continue to mix, gradually increasing the mixer speed to medium-high, until the dough is smooth and elastic. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and give it a few turns by hand to finish kneading it; it will still be slightly sticky.

Alternatively, combine the flour and salt in a large bowl and whisk together. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and add the yeast mixture and oil. Using a wooden spoon, stir the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients until the mixture is too stiff to stir, then mix with your hands in the bowl until the dough comes together and pulls away from the sides of the bowl. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead, adding only as much flour as necessary to prevent sticking, until smooth, elastic, and only slightly sticky. Transfer the dough to a large oiled bowl, turning to coat, cover with a kitchen towel or plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm place for 1 to 1 hours, until doubled in size. combine the flour and salt in a large bowl and whisk together. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and add the yeast mixture and oil. Using a wooden spoon, stir the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients until the mixture is too stiff to stir, then mix with your hands in the bowl until the dough comes together and pulls away from the sides of the bowl. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead, adding only as much flour as necessary to prevent sticking, until smooth, elastic, and only slightly sticky. Transfer the dough to a large oiled bowl, turning to coat, cover with a kitchen towel or plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm place for 1 to 1 hours, until doubled in size.

TO SHAPE THE DOUGH: Punch down the dough and turn it out onto a well-floured work surface. Divide it into 8 pieces (about 4 ounces each) and shape each one into a ball. Cover with a tea towel and let stand for 15 minutes before stretching the dough. Or, for easier handling, transfer the b.a.l.l.s to a floured baking sheet and refrigerate until cold. Punch down the dough and turn it out onto a well-floured work surface. Divide it into 8 pieces (about 4 ounces each) and shape each one into a ball. Cover with a tea towel and let stand for 15 minutes before stretching the dough. Or, for easier handling, transfer the b.a.l.l.s to a floured baking sheet and refrigerate until cold.

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