1. Place the chicken breast side down in a large deep soup kettle. Add the stock and 4 teaspoons salt (or, if using canned stock, first taste, then add salt as needed). Bring to a boil and skim the surface thoroughly. Lower the heat and add the carrots, celery, leeks, bouquet garni, thyme, and garlic and season with pepper. Adjust the heat so the water barely bubbles. Poach the chicken for 15 minutes, then flip it over and continue poaching until cooked through, about 25 minutes. Lift the chicken out of the pot, transfer to a large plate, and allow to cool. Place the chicken breast side down in a large deep soup kettle. Add the stock and 4 teaspoons salt (or, if using canned stock, first taste, then add salt as needed). Bring to a boil and skim the surface thoroughly. Lower the heat and add the carrots, celery, leeks, bouquet garni, thyme, and garlic and season with pepper. Adjust the heat so the water barely bubbles. Poach the chicken for 15 minutes, then flip it over and continue poaching until cooked through, about 25 minutes. Lift the chicken out of the pot, transfer to a large plate, and allow to cool.

2. Taste the vegetables. If they're tender, strain the stock into a large saucepan, setting the vegetables aside. If they're not yet tender, transfer them with the stock to the saucepan. Discard the bouquet garni. Set the stock over medium-high heat and let it simmer steadily until the liquid reduces by half, about 20 minutes. Taste the vegetables. If they're tender, strain the stock into a large saucepan, setting the vegetables aside. If they're not yet tender, transfer them with the stock to the saucepan. Discard the bouquet garni. Set the stock over medium-high heat and let it simmer steadily until the liquid reduces by half, about 20 minutes.

3. While the stock is reducing, put a medium saucepan of salted water on to boil for the pasta. As soon as the chicken is cool enough to handle, remove the skin and pull the meat off the bones. Discard the skin and bones and shred the meat into large pieces. Set the meat aside, covered, in a warm place. While the stock is reducing, put a medium saucepan of salted water on to boil for the pasta. As soon as the chicken is cool enough to handle, remove the skin and pull the meat off the bones. Discard the skin and bones and shred the meat into large pieces. Set the meat aside, covered, in a warm place.

4. When the water comes to a rapid boil, add the pasta. Cook until it is tender but still has some bite, about 5 minutes. Drain and set aside. When the water comes to a rapid boil, add the pasta. Cook until it is tender but still has some bite, about 5 minutes. Drain and set aside.

5. When the chicken stock is reduced, whisk in the b.u.t.ter, then add the lemon juice and tarragon. Taste for seasoning and add more lemon, salt, and pepper if necessary. Add the vegetables, chopped parsley, and pasta to the broth. (Sometimes if I know there are going to be leftovers, I set aside what won't be consumed before I add the pasta to the remainder. That way the pasta doesn't absorb the liquid in what will be leftovers.) Keep warm over low heat. When the chicken stock is reduced, whisk in the b.u.t.ter, then add the lemon juice and tarragon. Taste for seasoning and add more lemon, salt, and pepper if necessary. Add the vegetables, chopped parsley, and pasta to the broth. (Sometimes if I know there are going to be leftovers, I set aside what won't be consumed before I add the pasta to the remainder. That way the pasta doesn't absorb the liquid in what will be leftovers.) Keep warm over low heat.

6. Brush the bread with the olive oil and either toast or grill until golden. Sprinkle each slice of toast with 2 tablespoons of the Parmesan. Brush the bread with the olive oil and either toast or grill until golden. Sprinkle each slice of toast with 2 tablespoons of the Parmesan.

7. Set 1 cheese toast in each of four deep dinner plates. Distribute the chicken over the toast. Ladle the broth, vegetables, and pasta over the chicken and serve. Set 1 cheese toast in each of four deep dinner plates. Distribute the chicken over the toast. Ladle the broth, vegetables, and pasta over the chicken and serve.

Roasted Tomato and Farro Soup Farro is an ancient grain that was for thousands of years a staple throughout the Mediterranean. The Romans, who recognized that its large hard kernels made poor flour, used it to make a savory porridge, a dish still served for good luck at the weddings of modern Romans. Farro's creamy texture makes it an excellent addition to soup, and Umbrian cuisine includes several soups thickened with farro. Although not yet as available as Arborio rice, it's becoming more and more common in specialty food stores or even well-stocked Italian groceries. that was for thousands of years a staple throughout the Mediterranean. The Romans, who recognized that its large hard kernels made poor flour, used it to make a savory porridge, a dish still served for good luck at the weddings of modern Romans. Farro's creamy texture makes it an excellent addition to soup, and Umbrian cuisine includes several soups thickened with farro. Although not yet as available as Arborio rice, it's becoming more and more common in specialty food stores or even well-stocked Italian groceries.

This soup is a great transition from light summer cooking to the heartier fare of the approaching cooler weather. You can make this dish any time of the year by subst.i.tuting canned tomatoes for fresh ones, but roasted fresh tomatoes add a depth to the soup's flavor unavailable the rest of the year.

Cull through the cheese drawer in your refrigerator for leftover rinds of grating cheese. Throw them in while the soup is cooking; they add body and flavor. Remove any undissolved pieces before serving.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS.

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 ounces sliced pancetta, cut into -inch dice 2 celery stalks, peeled and chopped into -inch dice 1 small onion, chopped into -inch dice 1 medium leek, white part only, trimmed of roots and tough outer leaves, chopped into -inch dice, and swirled vigorously in a bowl of cold water to remove any grit Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 cup farro 3 bay leaves 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme 1 teaspoon dried oregano 4 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth 2 cups water Leftover cheese rinds (see headnote; optional) 4 pounds ripe plum tomatoes, cut lengthwise in half

GARNISH.

4 ripe plum tomatoes, peeled (see box), seeded, and cut into -inch dice 2 peperoncini or hot cherry peppers, thinly sliced and seeded 2 tablespoons fresh basil leaves cut into thin strips cup freshly grated Parmesan (optional) Extra virgin olive oil

1. To make the soup base, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large heavy pot over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook until the fat starts to render, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the celery, onion, and leek and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 7 minutes. Add the garlic, farro, bay leaves, thyme, and oregano and stir. Add the chicken stock and water; the liquid should cover the ingredients by To make the soup base, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large heavy pot over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook until the fat starts to render, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the celery, onion, and leek and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 7 minutes. Add the garlic, farro, bay leaves, thyme, and oregano and stir. Add the chicken stock and water; the liquid should cover the ingredients by inch. Season again with salt and pepper, and add the optional cheese rinds. inch. Season again with salt and pepper, and add the optional cheese rinds.

2. Cook uncovered until the farro is tender, Cook uncovered until the farro is tender, not not mushy, about 20 minutes. If the liquid evaporates below the level of the farro, add more water. When the farro is done, the soup base should be thick but not pasty. mushy, about 20 minutes. If the liquid evaporates below the level of the farro, add more water. When the farro is done, the soup base should be thick but not pasty.

3. Meanwhile, preheat the broiler. Toss the split plum tomatoes with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Arrange the tomatoes cut side down on a sheet pan and broil until they're browned and tender, about 15 minutes. Put the tomatoes through a food mill to get rid of their skins and seeds, or puree them in a food processor, then strain the puree to remove the skin and seeds. Meanwhile, preheat the broiler. Toss the split plum tomatoes with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Arrange the tomatoes cut side down on a sheet pan and broil until they're browned and tender, about 15 minutes. Put the tomatoes through a food mill to get rid of their skins and seeds, or puree them in a food processor, then strain the puree to remove the skin and seeds.

4. Add the tomato puree to the soup base and cook over medium heat for 20 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Remove the bay leaves and any cheese rinds. Add the tomato puree to the soup base and cook over medium heat for 20 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Remove the bay leaves and any cheese rinds.

5. Ladle the soup into warm bowls. Garnish each bowl with the diced tomatoes, peperoncini, and basil. Add a light grating of Parmesan, if desired, and then drizzle each serving with extra virgin olive oil. Ladle the soup into warm bowls. Garnish each bowl with the diced tomatoes, peperoncini, and basil. Add a light grating of Parmesan, if desired, and then drizzle each serving with extra virgin olive oil.

HOW TO PEEL TOMATOESIn a perfect world, tomatoes would be skinless, but until then it's up to you to peel them. Begin by bringing a pot of unsalted water to a boil. The pot should be large enough to hold as many tomatoes as you're going to peel. While the water heats, fill a bowl with ice water. Cut a shallow X in the base of each tomato, just deep enough to break the skin without slicing into the flesh. Blanch the tomatoes in boiling water for a scant 10 seconds, long enough to loosen the skins without cooking the flesh. Using a slotted spoon, immediately transfer the blanched tomatoes to the bowl of ice water. Let them cool for a minute, then remove them-the skin will have curled back at the site of each X and peels away easily.

Escarole Soup with Mushrooms and Little Meatb.a.l.l.s Escarole soup used to be a mainstay on the menus of family-run Italian immigrant restaurants, as familiar as pasta with red or white sauce, and with good reason. Hearty green leaves with real flavor in a delicious beef broth with meatb.a.l.l.s-on a cold rainy day, what could warm you faster? The primary hurdle to making escarole soup at home is that few of us keep beef stock on hand, and canned alternatives have little to recommend them. They taste artificial and unacceptably salty. My solution is to sweat the escarole with some sauteed aromatic vegetables and mushrooms, then to add chicken stock. My kids love discovering the marble-sized meatb.a.l.l.s hiding among the floating strands of escarole. This is a fairly thick soup; if you like more broth, increase the chicken stock to 8 cups. a mainstay on the menus of family-run Italian immigrant restaurants, as familiar as pasta with red or white sauce, and with good reason. Hearty green leaves with real flavor in a delicious beef broth with meatb.a.l.l.s-on a cold rainy day, what could warm you faster? The primary hurdle to making escarole soup at home is that few of us keep beef stock on hand, and canned alternatives have little to recommend them. They taste artificial and unacceptably salty. My solution is to sweat the escarole with some sauteed aromatic vegetables and mushrooms, then to add chicken stock. My kids love discovering the marble-sized meatb.a.l.l.s hiding among the floating strands of escarole. This is a fairly thick soup; if you like more broth, increase the chicken stock to 8 cups.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS.

MEATb.a.l.l.s.

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1 shallot, minced 1 garlic clove, minced Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper pound ground veal 1 extra-large egg 2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley cup unbleached all-purpose flour

BROTH.

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 medium carrot, peeled and chopped into -inch dice 1 celery stalk, peeled and chopped into -inch dice 1 leek, white part only, trimmed of roots and tough outer leaves, finely chopped, and swirled vigorously in a bowl of cold water to remove any grit pound mushrooms, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, finely chopped Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 head escarole, coa.r.s.ely chopped and rinsed thoroughly to remove any grit 6 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

cup freshly grated Parmesan, plus more for serving

1. To make the meatb.a.l.l.s, heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a small saute pan over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender about 3 minutes. Let cool. To make the meatb.a.l.l.s, heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a small saute pan over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender about 3 minutes. Let cool.

2. Combine the remaining meatball ingredients except the flour in a bowl, add the shallots and garlic, and mix. Test the mixture by forming a small amount into a ball and frying it. Taste, and adjust the seasonings in the meat mixture as necessary. Dust your hands with flour and form the mixture into meatb.a.l.l.s the size of marbles (about teaspoon). Cover and refrigerate at least 15 minutes. Combine the remaining meatball ingredients except the flour in a bowl, add the shallots and garlic, and mix. Test the mixture by forming a small amount into a ball and frying it. Taste, and adjust the seasonings in the meat mixture as necessary. Dust your hands with flour and form the mixture into meatb.a.l.l.s the size of marbles (about teaspoon). Cover and refrigerate at least 15 minutes.

3. To make the broth, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a soup pot over medium heat. Add the carrot, celery, leek, and mushrooms, and season with salt and pepper. Cook for 5 minutes or until tender. Add the garlic and escarole, cover, and cook for 5 minutes. Add the chicken stock and herbs and cook, uncovered, for an additional 10 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasonings. To make the broth, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a soup pot over medium heat. Add the carrot, celery, leek, and mushrooms, and season with salt and pepper. Cook for 5 minutes or until tender. Add the garlic and escarole, cover, and cook for 5 minutes. Add the chicken stock and herbs and cook, uncovered, for an additional 10 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasonings.

4. Add the meatb.a.l.l.s to the soup and poach for 5 minutes. Ladle the soup into warm bowls, sprinkle with the grated Parmesan, and serve. Offer additional cheese on the side. Add the meatb.a.l.l.s to the soup and poach for 5 minutes. Ladle the soup into warm bowls, sprinkle with the grated Parmesan, and serve. Offer additional cheese on the side.

Rabbit Soup with Garlic and Peppers This rustic dish is a great introduction to cooking rabbit. The rabbit is seared, then simmered slowly in a garlicky soup broth. The meat is easily stripped from the bones after the rabbit is cooked. Rabbit is a natural partner to garlic and pepper, both sweet and hot. All the different peppers in this recipe-paprika, freshly ground black pepper, sweet red peppers, and hot red pepper flakes-weave together to make a hearty, peasant-style soup. great introduction to cooking rabbit. The rabbit is seared, then simmered slowly in a garlicky soup broth. The meat is easily stripped from the bones after the rabbit is cooked. Rabbit is a natural partner to garlic and pepper, both sweet and hot. All the different peppers in this recipe-paprika, freshly ground black pepper, sweet red peppers, and hot red pepper flakes-weave together to make a hearty, peasant-style soup.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS.

One 3-pound rabbit Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper cup extra virgin olive oil pound chorizo sausages p.r.i.c.ked with a fork (so they don't split) 3 medium onions, chopped into -inch dice 3 red peppers (about pound each), peeled with a vegetable peeler, stemmed, seeded, and cut into -inch strips 2 cups peeled garlic cloves (see Note) (about 2 heads or 25 cloves) 1 tablespoon paprika 4 bay leaves 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme teaspoon hot red pepper flakes 8 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth or more as needed 2 cups cooked chickpeas (see page 230) or canned chickpeas, rinsed well 2 tablespoons dry sherry 6 ripe plum tomatoes, peeled (see page 55), seeded, and chopped into -inch dice (or one 15-ounce can diced tomatoes) cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1. Season the rabbit all over with salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil in a large Dutch oven or soup pot over medium heat (the pot should be large enough to hold the rabbit and sausage in a single layer). Add the rabbit and sausage and brown on both sides, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate and set aside. Season the rabbit all over with salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil in a large Dutch oven or soup pot over medium heat (the pot should be large enough to hold the rabbit and sausage in a single layer). Add the rabbit and sausage and brown on both sides, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

2. Add the onions to the pot, season with salt and pepper, and cook until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Lower the heat if the onions are cooking too fast. Add the peppers, season with salt and pepper, and cook until the peppers just begin to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic, paprika, bay leaves, thyme, and red pepper flakes and cook for 1 minute. Add the onions to the pot, season with salt and pepper, and cook until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Lower the heat if the onions are cooking too fast. Add the peppers, season with salt and pepper, and cook until the peppers just begin to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic, paprika, bay leaves, thyme, and red pepper flakes and cook for 1 minute.

3. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer, then return the rabbit and sausage to the pot. Cover and cook for 1 hour. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer, then return the rabbit and sausage to the pot. Cover and cook for 1 hour.

4. Flip the sausage and rabbit so they cook evenly, add the chickpeas, and cook for another 30 minutes or so, adding more stock if needed. When done, the rabbit should be just about falling off the bone. Flip the sausage and rabbit so they cook evenly, add the chickpeas, and cook for another 30 minutes or so, adding more stock if needed. When done, the rabbit should be just about falling off the bone.

5. Remove the rabbit and sausage from the pot. When it is cool enough to handle, shred the rabbit meat off the bones. Slice the sausage into -inch diagonal pieces. Remove the bay leaves and discard. Season the soup with salt and pepper. Remove the rabbit and sausage from the pot. When it is cool enough to handle, shred the rabbit meat off the bones. Slice the sausage into -inch diagonal pieces. Remove the bay leaves and discard. Season the soup with salt and pepper.

6. Return the meat to the pot. Heat the soup to warm everything through. Add the sherry, tomatoes, and parsley and simmer for 5 minutes. Return the meat to the pot. Heat the soup to warm everything through. Add the sherry, tomatoes, and parsley and simmer for 5 minutes.

7. Ladle the soup into warm bowls and serve. Ladle the soup into warm bowls and serve.

NOTE: To peel the garlic, blanch the unpeeled cloves in boiling water for 15 seconds, then shock in ice water and drain. The skins should slide off easily. To peel the garlic, blanch the unpeeled cloves in boiling water for 15 seconds, then shock in ice water and drain. The skins should slide off easily.

Salads Salad ingredients are the ultimate individualists. They may be tossed in the same bowl, but they never really blend together, and anything more than a few ingredients risks sinking the whole enterprise. The central point of salad is for a few items to stand out from the crowd while you balance texture, size, color, and acidity. By restricting the focus, it's easier to appreciate in-season tomatoes, corn that you've just stripped off the cob, high-quality sherry vinegar, and fresh herbs. individualists. They may be tossed in the same bowl, but they never really blend together, and anything more than a few ingredients risks sinking the whole enterprise. The central point of salad is for a few items to stand out from the crowd while you balance texture, size, color, and acidity. By restricting the focus, it's easier to appreciate in-season tomatoes, corn that you've just stripped off the cob, high-quality sherry vinegar, and fresh herbs.

Roughly half the recipes of this chapter are based on leafy greens tossed with homemade vinaigrettes. But the addition of one or two other elements-edible flowers, deviled eggs, a mint infusion, fried onions, or a wide variety of herbs-ensures that each is distinctly different. Typically I offer leafy salads after a main course, where they serve as a breather before dessert. But one of green salad's charms is its ability to become a side dish, main course, or even the slightly sweet finale to a meal.

The remaining salads are all iconoclasts, sharing only their individuality. Panzanella, a traditional Italian bread salad, and Grilled Onion and Parsley Salad with Black Olives and Pomegranate Seeds are worlds apart in taste and texture. Both are comfortable as side dishes, salad courses, or even the basis of a lunch entree. Roasted Pear and Radicchio Salad and Beet and Spinach Salad are composed of separately prepared elements artfully arranged on individual plates, unified only by a sauce or dressing. Either can serve as a formal prelude to a main course or stand alone as the centerpiece of a light lunch.

Local Lettuces with Sherry Vinaigrette and Edible Flowers Fancy garnishes are guilty until proven innocent in my book, but I make an exception for edible flowers-they actually add to the flavor of a salad. Nasturtiums have an appealing pepperiness; chive blossoms taste almost as you would imagine, with an unexpected sweetness; in fact, the flowers of most herbs have a faint flavor of the herb itself. Johnny-jump-ups, pansies, and rose and marigold petals are also edible, as well as squash and zucchini blossoms. Young dandelion flowers (and their greens) are delicious, but their bitter flavor makes them more appropriate for a salad with stronger flavors. A salad with herbs and baby lettuces is ideal for other edible flowers because it doesn't need a strong vinaigrette, which would overwhelm the flowers' mild flavor. Flowers for eating should only be purchased from a grocer, produce dealer, or organic farmer-not a florist. proven innocent in my book, but I make an exception for edible flowers-they actually add to the flavor of a salad. Nasturtiums have an appealing pepperiness; chive blossoms taste almost as you would imagine, with an unexpected sweetness; in fact, the flowers of most herbs have a faint flavor of the herb itself. Johnny-jump-ups, pansies, and rose and marigold petals are also edible, as well as squash and zucchini blossoms. Young dandelion flowers (and their greens) are delicious, but their bitter flavor makes them more appropriate for a salad with stronger flavors. A salad with herbs and baby lettuces is ideal for other edible flowers because it doesn't need a strong vinaigrette, which would overwhelm the flowers' mild flavor. Flowers for eating should only be purchased from a grocer, produce dealer, or organic farmer-not a florist.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

1 teaspoon minced shallot 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar cup extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 6 cups lightly packed baby lettuces, washed and dried well cup mixed herb leaves (e.g., chervil, parsley, basil, mint, chives, and thyme), stems removed as necessary, large leaves of mint and basil chopped in half 4 small radishes, cut into -inch matchsticks 2 ounces organic edible flowers or flower petals (nasturtium blossoms, pansies, johnny-jumpups, etc.; see headnote)

1. Whisk the shallot, mustard, and vinegars together in a small bowl to form an emulsion. Continue whisking while adding the olive oil in a thin, steady stream until it is completely absorbed and the vinaigrette is smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Whisk the shallot, mustard, and vinegars together in a small bowl to form an emulsion. Continue whisking while adding the olive oil in a thin, steady stream until it is completely absorbed and the vinaigrette is smooth. Season with salt and pepper.

2. Toss the lettuces in a large bowl with the herbs. Add enough vinaigrette for a light coating and toss gently until everything is dressed. (You may have a little vinaigrette left over, depending on the size and shape of your greens.) Taste, then season with salt and pepper if necessary. Toss the lettuces in a large bowl with the herbs. Add enough vinaigrette for a light coating and toss gently until everything is dressed. (You may have a little vinaigrette left over, depending on the size and shape of your greens.) Taste, then season with salt and pepper if necessary.

3. Arrange the salad on chilled plates. Sprinkle each serving with radish sticks and flowers. Serve immediately. Arrange the salad on chilled plates. Sprinkle each serving with radish sticks and flowers. Serve immediately.

PREMIUM OIL AND VINEGARThe effort of seeking out edible flowers can be defeated by a poor-quality oil or vinegar. Although you could spend a fortune on balsamic vinegar or single-estate extra virgin olive oil, delicious brands of both are available in specialty food stores for only a modest increase over the price of ma.s.s-produced brands. They make a palatable difference. My table olive oil is an extra virgin from Greece; I buy it in gallon cans. I also usually have a single half-liter bottle of more expensive French or Italian oil that I use to treat myself. You can buy exceptional sherry vinegar for less than ten dollars a bottle, and while the citizens of Modena may dismiss your balsamic vinegar bought for the same price, your guests won't.

Bibb Lettuce with Creamy Mustard Dressing and Herb-Stuffed Eggs This is an old-fashioned salad, not unlike something my grandmother would have made (minus the garlic) on a warm summer evening. not unlike something my grandmother would have made (minus the garlic) on a warm summer evening.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

4 extra-large eggs 2 tablespoons Mayonnaise (page 13) 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1 tablespoon minced fresh chives 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh tarragon 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 garlic cloves, peeled cup heavy cream 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus some for toasting the bread 1 small shallot, minced 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar Eight -inch-thick slices French bread 1 head Bibb lettuce, separated into leaves 2 celery stalks, peeled and thinly sliced on the diagonal

1. Put the eggs in a small saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring the water to a boil over high heat. Remove the saucepan from the heat and allow the eggs to cool in the water for 25 minutes; drain. Put the eggs in a small saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring the water to a boil over high heat. Remove the saucepan from the heat and allow the eggs to cool in the water for 25 minutes; drain.

2. Peel the eggs and cut in half lengthwise. The yolks should still be bright yellow and slightly soft in the very center. Scoop out the yolks and push them through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl. Add the mayonnaise, 1 teaspoon of the mustard, the herbs, and lemon juice and mix well. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon the herbed yolks into the whites. Cover and refrigerate. Peel the eggs and cut in half lengthwise. The yolks should still be bright yellow and slightly soft in the very center. Scoop out the yolks and push them through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl. Add the mayonnaise, 1 teaspoon of the mustard, the herbs, and lemon juice and mix well. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon the herbed yolks into the whites. Cover and refrigerate.

3. Meanwhile, put the garlic in a small saucepan and cover with 1 inch of water. Season with salt and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the garlic is very soft, about 10 minutes. Drain the garlic, rinse, and drain again. Return the garlic to the pan and add the cream. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to a simmer, and cook until thickened, about 6 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer cream and garlic to a blender, add 3 tablespoons of the oil, and puree until smooth. Meanwhile, put the garlic in a small saucepan and cover with 1 inch of water. Season with salt and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the garlic is very soft, about 10 minutes. Drain the garlic, rinse, and drain again. Return the garlic to the pan and add the cream. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to a simmer, and cook until thickened, about 6 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer cream and garlic to a blender, add 3 tablespoons of the oil, and puree until smooth.

4. Whisk the remaining 1 tablespoon mustard, the shallot, and vinegar together in a small bowl. Whisk in the pureed cream mixture. Season with salt and pepper. Whisk the remaining 1 tablespoon mustard, the shallot, and vinegar together in a small bowl. Whisk in the pureed cream mixture. Season with salt and pepper.

5. To make the croutons, brush the slices of bread with the olive oil and toast until golden brown and crisp. Season with salt and pepper. To make the croutons, brush the slices of bread with the olive oil and toast until golden brown and crisp. Season with salt and pepper.

6. Toss the lettuce in a large bowl with the celery and dressing. Season with salt and pepper. Distribute the salad among four chilled plates. Put half an egg on each crouton. Set 2 croutons on each salad and serve. Toss the lettuce in a large bowl with the celery and dressing. Season with salt and pepper. Distribute the salad among four chilled plates. Put half an egg on each crouton. Set 2 croutons on each salad and serve.

Minted Romaine Salad with Grapes, Ricotta Salata, and Toasted Almonds My friend and teacher Nancy Verde Barr first introduced me to the Italian technique of steeping mint in vinegar and water, then using the liquid to add a bold mint flavor to salad. A steeping period as short as 30 minutes will give the vinaigrette a substantial mint kick, but if you have the inclination, you might try it for a couple of hours, or even overnight to see just how intense the flavor can become. Nancy Verde Barr first introduced me to the Italian technique of steeping mint in vinegar and water, then using the liquid to add a bold mint flavor to salad. A steeping period as short as 30 minutes will give the vinaigrette a substantial mint kick, but if you have the inclination, you might try it for a couple of hours, or even overnight to see just how intense the flavor can become.

In my repertoire of salads, this one is a rare exception in that my favorite time to serve it is out of season, in the winter. In New England, there is no local table grape industry, so I buy them out of season in a supermarket; mint is available year-round (but not in my backyard). The salad makes a bright and refreshing contrast to root vegetables, like a summer day that has suddenly wandered into the middle of February.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

cup red wine vinegar 2 tablespoons water cup plus 2 tablespoons coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh mint 1 small shallot, minced cup extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 large head Romaine lettuce, leaves separated, washed, and dried 1 small red onion, sliced paper-thin, soaked in ice water for 30 minutes (to remove bitterness), drained, and dried pound seedless grapes, washed and cut in half cup sliced almonds, toasted pound ricotta salata, thinly sliced

1. Combine vinegar, water, and 2 tablespoons of the chopped mint in a small nonreactive saucepan. Bring to a simmer, then remove from the heat, and let steep for 30 minutes. Combine vinegar, water, and 2 tablespoons of the chopped mint in a small nonreactive saucepan. Bring to a simmer, then remove from the heat, and let steep for 30 minutes.

2. Strain the vinegar into a small bowl and discard the mint. Add the shallot. Whisk in the oil in a thin, steady stream. Season with salt and pepper. Strain the vinegar into a small bowl and discard the mint. Add the shallot. Whisk in the oil in a thin, steady stream. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Mix the Romaine leaves in a large bowl with the remaining cup mint, the red onion, and grapes. Add the vinaigrette and toss well. Taste, then season with salt and pepper if necessary. Mix the Romaine leaves in a large bowl with the remaining cup mint, the red onion, and grapes. Add the vinaigrette and toss well. Taste, then season with salt and pepper if necessary.

4. Arrange the salad on chilled plates, top with the toasted almonds and slices of ricotta salata, and serve. Arrange the salad on chilled plates, top with the toasted almonds and slices of ricotta salata, and serve.

Arugula and Portobella Mushroom Salad This is a poor man's version of the cla.s.sic Italian salad of porcini mushrooms sliced paper-thin and dressed with extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice, and black pepper. Portobellas aren't as n.o.ble as porcini, but they're more readily available and a lot less expensive. They have their own admirable flavor, and their meaty texture almost equals that of porcini. This salad makes a fine appetizer, accompaniment for a Tuscan-Style Sirloin with Parmesan, Lemon, and Truffle Oil (page 263), or end-of-the-meal salad. If you chance upon a batch of fresh porcini and are feeling flush, by all means replace the portobellas with their more aristocratic cousins. version of the cla.s.sic Italian salad of porcini mushrooms sliced paper-thin and dressed with extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice, and black pepper. Portobellas aren't as n.o.ble as porcini, but they're more readily available and a lot less expensive. They have their own admirable flavor, and their meaty texture almost equals that of porcini. This salad makes a fine appetizer, accompaniment for a Tuscan-Style Sirloin with Parmesan, Lemon, and Truffle Oil (page 263), or end-of-the-meal salad. If you chance upon a batch of fresh porcini and are feeling flush, by all means replace the portobellas with their more aristocratic cousins.

Examine the portobella cap carefully before you buy it. It should feel firm, not spongy, and the edges of the cap should be still be intact, not dry or cracked. Slice it as thin as possible with a sharp knife or, if its blade is very sharp, a mandoline.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

1 head endive, separated into leaves (about 12 leaves) 4 cups lightly packed arugula, washed and dried 1 large portobella mushroom cap (3 to 4 ounces), cleaned and sliced paper-thin 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 ounces Parmesan, shaved with vegetable peeler

1. Put the endive leaves, arugula, and mushrooms in a bowl. Drizzle the lemon juice over the salad, add the olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss well. Taste, then adjust the seasonings if necessary. Put the endive leaves, arugula, and mushrooms in a bowl. Drizzle the lemon juice over the salad, add the olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss well. Taste, then adjust the seasonings if necessary.

2. Arrange the salad on chilled plates, sprinkle with the Parmesan shavings, and serve. Arrange the salad on chilled plates, sprinkle with the Parmesan shavings, and serve.

Escarole, Romaine, and Capocollo Salad with Anchovy Dressing and Fried Onions This is a hearty country-style combination of escarole and romaine that bears a distant relation to Caesar salad-similar ingredients, but much different handling, with crispy fried onions replacing the textural crunch of a Caesar salad's croutons. I like to use capocollo instead of prosciutto because it's fattier, a little less refined, which is just right for the strong flavors of this dish. combination of escarole and romaine that bears a distant relation to Caesar salad-similar ingredients, but much different handling, with crispy fried onions replacing the textural crunch of a Caesar salad's croutons. I like to use capocollo instead of prosciutto because it's fattier, a little less refined, which is just right for the strong flavors of this dish.

Take the time to fry the onions; the salad just isn't the same without the irresistible crispy topping. They can be made several hours in advance without any loss of flavor or texture, and they're intended to be served at room temperature, not warm.