2 ounces thinly sliced smoked bacon, cut crosswise into -inch thick pieces small carrot, peeled and chopped into -inch dice celery stalk, peeled and chopped into -inch dice 3 shallots, chopped into -inch dice 1 garlic clove, minced cup French green lentils (le Puy), rinsed and picked over for stones 2 bay leaves Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper teaspoon chopped fresh thyme 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

SHAD ROE.

4 cups water cup dry white wine 1 small onion, sliced inch thick 1 celery stalk, peeled and sliced inch thick 2 sprigs thyme 10 peppercorns 2 bay leaves Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 pairs shad roe (about pound each) About cup unbleached all-purpose flour 7 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 shallot, thinly sliced 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 tablespoon capers, rinsed 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley pound bitter greens, such as arugula or chicory 1. In a heavy saucepan, cook the bacon over medium heat until it has rendered its fat but is not yet crispy. Add the carrot, celery, shallots, and garlic and cook until they just begin to brown around the edges but are still crisp, about 3 minutes. Transfer the vegetables and bacon to a bowl, leaving the fat in the pan. In a heavy saucepan, cook the bacon over medium heat until it has rendered its fat but is not yet crispy. Add the carrot, celery, shallots, and garlic and cook until they just begin to brown around the edges but are still crisp, about 3 minutes. Transfer the vegetables and bacon to a bowl, leaving the fat in the pan.

2. Add the lentils and bay leaves to the saucepan. Add enough water to cover the lentils by an inch. Bring to a boil, then immediately lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes; add additional water if necessary while the lentils are cooking. Add the lentils and bay leaves to the saucepan. Add enough water to cover the lentils by an inch. Bring to a boil, then immediately lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes; add additional water if necessary while the lentils are cooking.

3. Return the vegetables and bacon to the pan and continue cooking until the lentils and vegetables are tender, 15 to 20 more minutes. The liquid should be almost completely absorbed, with a hint of soupiness. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the thyme and chopped parsley; discard the bay leaves. Keep warm. Return the vegetables and bacon to the pan and continue cooking until the lentils and vegetables are tender, 15 to 20 more minutes. The liquid should be almost completely absorbed, with a hint of soupiness. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the thyme and chopped parsley; discard the bay leaves. Keep warm.

4. To poach the roe, put the water, white wine, onion, celery, thyme sprigs, peppercorns, and bay leaves in a medium saucepan. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 15 minutes. Gently slip the pairs of roe into the liquid and poach for 1 minute. Turn off the heat and allow the pairs to cool in the poaching liquid. To poach the roe, put the water, white wine, onion, celery, thyme sprigs, peppercorns, and bay leaves in a medium saucepan. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 15 minutes. Gently slip the pairs of roe into the liquid and poach for 1 minute. Turn off the heat and allow the pairs to cool in the poaching liquid.

5. When the shad roe is cool, remove from the liquid. Trim off any dangling membranes, taking care not to rip the membrane that holds the eggs together. Separate each pair into 2 lobes. Season with salt and pepper. Dredge in flour. When the shad roe is cool, remove from the liquid. Trim off any dangling membranes, taking care not to rip the membrane that holds the eggs together. Separate each pair into 2 lobes. Season with salt and pepper. Dredge in flour.

6. Distribute the lentils among four warm plates. Keep warm. Distribute the lentils among four warm plates. Keep warm.

7. Heat 6 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium heat. As soon as the foam subsides, add the lobes and sear on each side until golden, about Heat 6 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium heat. As soon as the foam subsides, add the lobes and sear on each side until golden, about 3 3 minutes per side. Transfer the roe to the plates with the lentils. minutes per side. Transfer the roe to the plates with the lentils.

8. Add the shallot to the pan and cook until tender, about 2 minutes. Add the lemon juice and capers and bring to a boil. Season with salt and pepper, add the parsley, and pour over the roe. Add the shallot to the pan and cook until tender, about 2 minutes. Add the lemon juice and capers and bring to a boil. Season with salt and pepper, add the parsley, and pour over the roe.

9. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter to the pan, increase the heat to high, and add the greens. Season with salt and pepper and toss until they're slightly wilted. Divide the greens among the plates and serve immediately. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter to the pan, increase the heat to high, and add the greens. Season with salt and pepper and toss until they're slightly wilted. Divide the greens among the plates and serve immediately.

Salmon Marinated in Mint and Basil with Summer Vegetable Gratin For the most part, I try to keep things as simple as possible when combining seafood and summer vegetables. But not so the French-and on some occasions, jumping through their hoops makes sense. This is a lovely decadent dish whose major effort goes into a rich gratin of summer vegetables with cream. The salmon is very lightly flavored with basil and mint. After the gratin is baked, the salmon is given a quick sear and served atop the vegetables. try to keep things as simple as possible when combining seafood and summer vegetables. But not so the French-and on some occasions, jumping through their hoops makes sense. This is a lovely decadent dish whose major effort goes into a rich gratin of summer vegetables with cream. The salmon is very lightly flavored with basil and mint. After the gratin is baked, the salmon is given a quick sear and served atop the vegetables.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

Grated zest of lemon 3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint, plus 4 sprigs for garnish 3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Four 6-ounce salmon fillets, skin removed Kosher salt pound sugar snap peas, strings removed pound thin string beans, trimmed pound zucchini, scrubbed and cut into -inch dice pound flat-leaf spinach, trimmed of thick stems, washed, dried, and coa.r.s.ely chopped 1 ear corn, husked pound leeks, white part only, trimmed of roots and tough outer leaves, thinly sliced crosswise and swirled vigorously in a bowl of cold water to remove any grit 1 baking potato (about 8 ounces), peeled and cut into -inch dice 1 cup heavy cream 1 lemon, halved Freshly ground black pepper 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots cup toasted bread crumbs DO AHEAD: Marinate the salmon with the herbs an hour before cooking. You can shave some preparation time from the final a.s.sembly by blanching the vegetables ahead. Marinate the salmon with the herbs an hour before cooking. You can shave some preparation time from the final a.s.sembly by blanching the vegetables ahead.

1. In a shallow dish, toss the lemon zest with 2 tablespoons of the mint, 2 tablespoons of the basil, and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Rub the mixture on the salmon. Marinate for 1 hour in the refrigerator. In a shallow dish, toss the lemon zest with 2 tablespoons of the mint, 2 tablespoons of the basil, and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Rub the mixture on the salmon. Marinate for 1 hour in the refrigerator.

2. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Fill a large bowl with ice water-it should be large enough to hold all of the vegetables. One at a time, briefly blanch the snap peas, string beans, zucchini, spinach, and the ear of corn in the boiling water, then plunge them into the ice water to stop the cooking. The goal is to cook everything just to the point where an element of crispness still remains. The snap peas and string beans will take 1 to 2 minutes, the zucchini about a minute; the spinach only 15 to 30 seconds, and the corn 2 minutes. Remove the corn from the water and use a sharp knife to strip the corn kernels from the cob. Discard the cob. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Fill a large bowl with ice water-it should be large enough to hold all of the vegetables. One at a time, briefly blanch the snap peas, string beans, zucchini, spinach, and the ear of corn in the boiling water, then plunge them into the ice water to stop the cooking. The goal is to cook everything just to the point where an element of crispness still remains. The snap peas and string beans will take 1 to 2 minutes, the zucchini about a minute; the spinach only 15 to 30 seconds, and the corn 2 minutes. Remove the corn from the water and use a sharp knife to strip the corn kernels from the cob. Discard the cob.

3. Fill a small pot with salted water. Add the leeks and potato, bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Plunge into the ice water with the other vegetables. Drain and dry all the vegetables. Fill a small pot with salted water. Add the leeks and potato, bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Plunge into the ice water with the other vegetables. Drain and dry all the vegetables.

4. Toss the blanched vegetables (including the corn) in a bowl with 1 tablespoon each of the remaining mint and basil, the cream, and the juice of half the lemon. Season with salt and pepper and toss well. Spread the vegetables in a 1-inch layer in a gratin dish. Toss the blanched vegetables (including the corn) in a bowl with 1 tablespoon each of the remaining mint and basil, the cream, and the juice of half the lemon. Season with salt and pepper and toss well. Spread the vegetables in a 1-inch layer in a gratin dish.

5. Preheat the oven to 350F. Preheat the oven to 350F.

6. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a small saute pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and shallots and cook until tender, about 2 minutes. Toss with the bread crumbs and season with salt and pepper. Spread over the vegetables. Bake the gratin until the vegetables are tender and the cream is bubbling, about 10 minutes. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a small saute pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and shallots and cook until tender, about 2 minutes. Toss with the bread crumbs and season with salt and pepper. Spread over the vegetables. Bake the gratin until the vegetables are tender and the cream is bubbling, about 10 minutes.

7. While the gratin is baking, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Sprinkle the salmon liberally with salt and pepper. When the oil is hot, almost smoking, add the salmon fillets (the side that used to have the skin on it should be up) and sear until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Do not try to move the fillets until they've gotten a good sear, or they'll stick to the pan. Cook them on one side only. Remove from the heat. While the gratin is baking, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Sprinkle the salmon liberally with salt and pepper. When the oil is hot, almost smoking, add the salmon fillets (the side that used to have the skin on it should be up) and sear until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Do not try to move the fillets until they've gotten a good sear, or they'll stick to the pan. Cook them on one side only. Remove from the heat.

8. As soon as the gratin finishes baking, set the salmon fillets, seared side up, on top of the gratin. Return to the oven until the fish is cooked to medium, another 10 minutes or so. Squeeze the remaining lemon half over the fish and garnish with the mint sprigs. Serve immediately. As soon as the gratin finishes baking, set the salmon fillets, seared side up, on top of the gratin. Return to the oven until the fish is cooked to medium, another 10 minutes or so. Squeeze the remaining lemon half over the fish and garnish with the mint sprigs. Serve immediately.

Striped Ba.s.s with Fried Green Tomatoes and Figs I grew up with "stipers" as grew up with "stipers" as a summer staple, but overfishing took it off the table for many years. The inviting pale rose-white color of the fillets seems to predict a delicate flavor, but the fish actually has a strong, meaty taste and a firm texture. In this recipe, the ba.s.s is seared in one pan and then finishes cooking in a second pan atop an aromatic bed of fried green tomatoes sweetened with a few fresh figs. If you have a presentable skillet or saute pan, the fish can brought directly to the table and served as a gorgeous one-pot dish. a summer staple, but overfishing took it off the table for many years. The inviting pale rose-white color of the fillets seems to predict a delicate flavor, but the fish actually has a strong, meaty taste and a firm texture. In this recipe, the ba.s.s is seared in one pan and then finishes cooking in a second pan atop an aromatic bed of fried green tomatoes sweetened with a few fresh figs. If you have a presentable skillet or saute pan, the fish can brought directly to the table and served as a gorgeous one-pot dish.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

3 green tomatoes (4 to 5 ounces each), sliced inch thick Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper cup unbleached all-purpose flour 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 4 ripe figs, cut in half lengthwise 1 large fennel bulb (about 6 ounces), trimmed of tough outer layers, cored, and chopped into -inch dice 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 teaspoon grated orange zest 16 basil leaves 4 striped ba.s.s fillets, about 1 inch thick, skin on cup white wine vinegar cup water 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1. Season the tomato slices on both sides with salt and pepper. Dust with the flour. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the tomato slices and sear on both sides until golden brown, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate. Add the figs, cut side down, to the pan and sear, until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer to the platter with the tomatoes and wipe out the pan. Season the tomato slices on both sides with salt and pepper. Dust with the flour. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the tomato slices and sear on both sides until golden brown, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate. Add the figs, cut side down, to the pan and sear, until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer to the platter with the tomatoes and wipe out the pan.

2. Add 2 more tablespoons of the olive oil to the pan. Add the fennel, season with salt and pepper, and saute until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, just a minute or two. Stir in the orange zest and basil leaves and remove the pan from the heat. Return the tomatoes and figs to the pan, laying them atop the fennel. Add 2 more tablespoons of the olive oil to the pan. Add the fennel, season with salt and pepper, and saute until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, just a minute or two. Stir in the orange zest and basil leaves and remove the pan from the heat. Return the tomatoes and figs to the pan, laying them atop the fennel.

3. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a second large saute pan over medium-high heat. Season the ba.s.s with salt and pepper. When the oil is hot but not quite smoking, add the ba.s.s, skin side down, and sear until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Flip the fish and cook for 1 minute on the second side. Transfer the ba.s.s to the first saute pan, laying the fillets skin side up atop the tomatoes and figs. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a second large saute pan over medium-high heat. Season the ba.s.s with salt and pepper. When the oil is hot but not quite smoking, add the ba.s.s, skin side down, and sear until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Flip the fish and cook for 1 minute on the second side. Transfer the ba.s.s to the first saute pan, laying the fillets skin side up atop the tomatoes and figs.

4. Pour the vinegar and water into the pan used for cooking the fish. As the liquid starts to boil, sc.r.a.pe the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to dissolve the crispy bits. Pour this pan juice over the fish and vegetables. Pour the vinegar and water into the pan used for cooking the fish. As the liquid starts to boil, sc.r.a.pe the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to dissolve the crispy bits. Pour this pan juice over the fish and vegetables.

5. Cover and cook over low heat until the fish is cooked through, about 8 minutes. Transfer the dish to a warm platter or serve directly from the pan. Sprinkle with the chopped parsley just before serving. Cover and cook over low heat until the fish is cooked through, about 8 minutes. Transfer the dish to a warm platter or serve directly from the pan. Sprinkle with the chopped parsley just before serving.

Pan-Roasted Salmon with Warm Cuc.u.mber Salad Isn't it funny how ingredients come in and out of fashion? After receiving some smoked salt from Norway, come in and out of fashion? After receiving some smoked salt from Norway, I I wanted to develop a dish that was consistent with the salt's Scandinavian origins. My instincts led me straight to salmon and then to dill. From there it was an easy to step to cuc.u.mbers, fennel, mustard, and then creme fraiche. The effect reminds me of an old-fashioned Sunday dinner platter-seared salmon fillets accompanied by toast points and a creamy sauce. wanted to develop a dish that was consistent with the salt's Scandinavian origins. My instincts led me straight to salmon and then to dill. From there it was an easy to step to cuc.u.mbers, fennel, mustard, and then creme fraiche. The effect reminds me of an old-fashioned Sunday dinner platter-seared salmon fillets accompanied by toast points and a creamy sauce.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill, plus 4 sprigs for garnish 2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest Four 6-ounce salmon fillets, skin on 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Smoked sea salt (available in specialty stores; or subst.i.tute regular sea salt) 1 small celery root, peeled and cut into -inch dice 1 small red onion, sliced inch thick Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 cuc.u.mber, peeled, halved, seeded, and cut into -inch slices on the diagonal 2 slices dense pumpernickel bread 1 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.ter firm red apple, skin on, cut into -inch dice cup creme fraiche 3 tablespoons spicy grainy mustard 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 1. Mix the chopped dill, tarragon, and lemon zest together. Transfer half the herbs to a small bowl for use in the sauce, cover, and refrigerate. Toss the salmon fillets in the other half. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least an hour and up to 24 hours. Mix the chopped dill, tarragon, and lemon zest together. Transfer half the herbs to a small bowl for use in the sauce, cover, and refrigerate. Toss the salmon fillets in the other half. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least an hour and up to 24 hours.

2. Preheat the oven to 400F. Preheat the oven to 400F.

3. Heat the olive oil in an ovenproof saute pan over medium heat. Season the fillets with the sea salt and pepper. When the oil is hot, add the salmon skin side down to the pan and cook, on the one side only, until the skin is crispy, about 5 minutes. Remove the fish from the pan. Heat the olive oil in an ovenproof saute pan over medium heat. Season the fillets with the sea salt and pepper. When the oil is hot, add the salmon skin side down to the pan and cook, on the one side only, until the skin is crispy, about 5 minutes. Remove the fish from the pan.

4. Add the celery root and onions to the pan, season with salt and pepper, and cook for 5 minutes, or until just tender. Add the cuc.u.mber and toss well. Add the celery root and onions to the pan, season with salt and pepper, and cook for 5 minutes, or until just tender. Add the cuc.u.mber and toss well.

5. Place the fish skin side up on top of the vegetables and roast in the oven for 7 minutes, or until the fish is cooked to medium. Place the fish skin side up on top of the vegetables and roast in the oven for 7 minutes, or until the fish is cooked to medium.

6. Meanwhile, toast and b.u.t.ter the pumpernickel slices. Trim the crusts, then cut each slice into 4 triangles. Meanwhile, toast and b.u.t.ter the pumpernickel slices. Trim the crusts, then cut each slice into 4 triangles.

7. Transfer the fish to a platter, skin side up. Off the heat, add the apple, creme fraiche, mustard, and the reserved herb mixture to the pan and mix in. Season with salt, pepper, and the lemon juice. Transfer the fish to a platter, skin side up. Off the heat, add the apple, creme fraiche, mustard, and the reserved herb mixture to the pan and mix in. Season with salt, pepper, and the lemon juice.

8. Spoon the salad and sauce next to-not over-the fish. Garnish with the toast points and dill sprigs, and serve. Spoon the salad and sauce next to-not over-the fish. Garnish with the toast points and dill sprigs, and serve.

Salmon with Walnuts and Dried Cranberries Dried cranberries and walnuts are a pair of obvious New England ingredients for an easy variation on seared salmon, and both go well with spinach. Red cranberries, orange salmon, green spinach, and a golden sauce make a seafood entree that looks festive, tastes great, and is easy and quick to prepare. a pair of obvious New England ingredients for an easy variation on seared salmon, and both go well with spinach. Red cranberries, orange salmon, green spinach, and a golden sauce make a seafood entree that looks festive, tastes great, and is easy and quick to prepare.

The dish is easily doubled, especially if you grill the salmon instead of sauteing it. Any leftovers translate into an instant lunch. The spinach is delicious cold, and the salmon can be sliced thin and drizzled with fresh lemon juice or given a completely different spin with a flavored mayonnaise (pages 13-14).

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 shallot, minced cup dry white wine 2 tablespoons dried cranberries, soaked in cup freshly squeezed orange juice 2 tablespoons grated fresh horseradish, or 2 tablespoons bottled horseradish, drained 1 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Four 6-ounce salmon fillets, skin on 1 pound flat-leaf spinach, trimmed of thick stems, washed, and dried 2 tablespoons chopped toasted walnuts 1. Heat 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter with the shallots in a saucepan over medium heat and cook until the shallots are tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the white wine and reduce to 2 tablespoons. Pour the orange juice from the cranberries into the saucepan (set the cranberries aside). Reduce the orange juice to just cup. Off the heat, whisk in the remaining 7 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, a tablespoon at a time. Add the horseradish and lemon juice, then season with salt and pepper. Cover and keep in a warm spot, away from the direct heat-or the sauce will break. Heat 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter with the shallots in a saucepan over medium heat and cook until the shallots are tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the white wine and reduce to 2 tablespoons. Pour the orange juice from the cranberries into the saucepan (set the cranberries aside). Reduce the orange juice to just cup. Off the heat, whisk in the remaining 7 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, a tablespoon at a time. Add the horseradish and lemon juice, then season with salt and pepper. Cover and keep in a warm spot, away from the direct heat-or the sauce will break.

2. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a large saute pan (nonstick if possible) over high heat. (Use two pans if all the fish won't fit comfortably in a single pan.) Sprinkle the salmon liberally with salt and pepper. When the oil is hot, almost smoking, add the salmon fillets, skin side up, and sear until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Do not try to move the fillets until they've gotten a good sear, or they'll stick to the pan. Flip and cook on the other side. A 2-inch-thick fillet will take 3 to 4 minutes per side for medium. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a large saute pan (nonstick if possible) over high heat. (Use two pans if all the fish won't fit comfortably in a single pan.) Sprinkle the salmon liberally with salt and pepper. When the oil is hot, almost smoking, add the salmon fillets, skin side up, and sear until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Do not try to move the fillets until they've gotten a good sear, or they'll stick to the pan. Flip and cook on the other side. A 2-inch-thick fillet will take 3 to 4 minutes per side for medium.

3. While the salmon is cooking, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a large saute pan over high heat. Add the spinach, season with salt and pepper, and cook, tossing, until the spinach has just wilted, a minute or so. Add the walnuts and cranberries and cook for another 30 seconds to heat everything through. While the salmon is cooking, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a large saute pan over high heat. Add the spinach, season with salt and pepper, and cook, tossing, until the spinach has just wilted, a minute or so. Add the walnuts and cranberries and cook for another 30 seconds to heat everything through.

4. Place a quarter of the spinach and cranberries in the center of each of four warm plates. Set the salmon skin side up over the spinach. Spoon the sauce around the plates. Serve immediately. Place a quarter of the spinach and cranberries in the center of each of four warm plates. Set the salmon skin side up over the spinach. Spoon the sauce around the plates. Serve immediately.

Sea Scallops with Cider Cream Simple ingredients exploited to maximum effect-that's the story behind this recipe. Hard cider combines with creme fraiche to pick up the sweetness of fresh scallops. The scallops rest on a bed of spinach and shiitake mushrooms, flavors from the opposite end of the taste spectrum, so that everyone's palate isn't exhausted from all of that creamy richness. The most challenging aspect of this recipe is to cook the scallops correctly. The key is to brown them quickly over high heat for just a couple of minutes without disturbing them, then turn them once to finish cooking on the other side. They should still be slightly translucent in the center. Don't shake them around while they're cooking, or they'll release their juices, a double whammy-they dry out and the juice in the pan prevents them from browning correctly. effect-that's the story behind this recipe. Hard cider combines with creme fraiche to pick up the sweetness of fresh scallops. The scallops rest on a bed of spinach and shiitake mushrooms, flavors from the opposite end of the taste spectrum, so that everyone's palate isn't exhausted from all of that creamy richness. The most challenging aspect of this recipe is to cook the scallops correctly. The key is to brown them quickly over high heat for just a couple of minutes without disturbing them, then turn them once to finish cooking on the other side. They should still be slightly translucent in the center. Don't shake them around while they're cooking, or they'll release their juices, a double whammy-they dry out and the juice in the pan prevents them from browning correctly.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

1 cups hard cider cup creme fraiche Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper cup vegetable oil 1 pounds large fresh sea scallops, 1 to 1 inches across, tough muscles removed pound shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and thinly sliced 2 shallots, thinly sliced 1 pound flat-leaf spinach, trimmed of thick stems, washed, and dried cup chopped toasted hazelnuts 2 tablespoons minced fresh chives 1. Bring the cider to a boil in a small saucepan. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until the cider has reduced to a glaze, 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool. Bring the cider to a boil in a small saucepan. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until the cider has reduced to a glaze, 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool.

2. Mix the cider with the creme fraiche. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. Mix the cider with the creme fraiche. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

3. Heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a large saute pan over high heat. Season the scallops with salt and pepper. When the oil is very hot, almost at the smoking point, add the scallops in a single layer, with at least inch of s.p.a.ce between them, and allow them to cook, undisturbed, until golden brown on the first side, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip and cook the second side. They should still be slightly translucent in the center. Transfer to a plate and keep warm. Heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a large saute pan over high heat. Season the scallops with salt and pepper. When the oil is very hot, almost at the smoking point, add the scallops in a single layer, with at least inch of s.p.a.ce between them, and allow them to cook, undisturbed, until golden brown on the first side, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip and cook the second side. They should still be slightly translucent in the center. Transfer to a plate and keep warm.

4. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the pan, if necessary. Add the shiitakes and shallots, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender, about 2 minutes. Add the spinach, season with salt and pepper, and toss several times, until wilted. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the pan, if necessary. Add the shiitakes and shallots, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender, about 2 minutes. Add the spinach, season with salt and pepper, and toss several times, until wilted.

5. Make a bed of spinach and mushrooms on each of four warm plates. Arrange the scallops on top. Put a spoonful of the creme fraiche and cider sauce over the scallops, sprinkle with the hazelnuts and chives, and serve immediately. Make a bed of spinach and mushrooms on each of four warm plates. Arrange the scallops on top. Put a spoonful of the creme fraiche and cider sauce over the scallops, sprinkle with the hazelnuts and chives, and serve immediately.

Venetian-Style Sweet-and-Sour Sole This dish seems antique to me. It's not at all something that a modern Western sensibility would devise. The exotic combination of pine nuts, raisins, vinegar, and orange juice seems to call from some ancient time and place, half-European, half-Middle Eastern, strange and appealing at the same time. One of the easiest ways of preserving fish in a hot climate is to store it in vinegar. A sweet sauce or condiment helped create a balanced flavor when the fish was served. I've modified me. It's not at all something that a modern Western sensibility would devise. The exotic combination of pine nuts, raisins, vinegar, and orange juice seems to call from some ancient time and place, half-European, half-Middle Eastern, strange and appealing at the same time. One of the easiest ways of preserving fish in a hot climate is to store it in vinegar. A sweet sauce or condiment helped create a balanced flavor when the fish was served. I've modified sfogli i saor sfogli i saor, a traditional Venetian sweet-and-sour fish, by adapting it to fresh sole and serving the dish warm, instead of at the traditional room temperature.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

1 pounds fresh sole fillets Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper About cup unbleached all-purpose flour for dredging About cup extra virgin olive oil 4 shallots, thinly sliced 1 garlic clove, finely chopped teaspoon hot red pepper flakes 2 tablespoons raisins, soaked in 6 tablespoons dry Marsala or dry sherry 2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted cup freshly squeezed orange juice 1 teaspoon champagne vinegar 2 ounces flat-leaf spinach, trimmed of thick stems, washed, and dried 1. Preheat the oven to 200F. Place a platter in the oven while it warms. Preheat the oven to 200F. Place a platter in the oven while it warms.

2. Season the sole fillets with salt and pepper and dredge in the flour. Shake off any excess flour. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in each of two large saute pans over high heat. You'll have to cook the fish in two batches, adding additional olive oil with the second batch. Saute the sole on the first side for 3 minutes, then flip and cook on the other side until just done, 1 to 2 minutes; it should be golden brown and just cooked through. Transfer the fillets to the platter in the oven as they finish cooking. Season the sole fillets with salt and pepper and dredge in the flour. Shake off any excess flour. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in each of two large saute pans over high heat. You'll have to cook the fish in two batches, adding additional olive oil with the second batch. Saute the sole on the first side for 3 minutes, then flip and cook on the other side until just done, 1 to 2 minutes; it should be golden brown and just cooked through. Transfer the fillets to the platter in the oven as they finish cooking.

3. Add the shallots to one of the pans (set the other pan aside). Lower the heat to medium, and cook until tender, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, about a minute. Add the red pepper flakes, the raisins, with the Marsala, and the pine nuts and bring to a boil. Add the orange juice and bring to a boil, then remove from the heat. Whisk the remaining cup olive oil into the orange juice to create an emulsion. Whisk in the vinegar and season with salt and pepper to taste. Add the shallots to one of the pans (set the other pan aside). Lower the heat to medium, and cook until tender, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, about a minute. Add the red pepper flakes, the raisins, with the Marsala, and the pine nuts and bring to a boil. Add the orange juice and bring to a boil, then remove from the heat. Whisk the remaining cup olive oil into the orange juice to create an emulsion. Whisk in the vinegar and season with salt and pepper to taste.

4. Add the spinach to the second pan and cook over high heat, tossing, until it wilts, a minute or two. Season with salt and pepper. Add the spinach to the second pan and cook over high heat, tossing, until it wilts, a minute or two. Season with salt and pepper.

5. To serve, spoon the sauce over the sole. Garnish the platter with the wilted spinach and serve immediately. To serve, spoon the sauce over the sole. Garnish the platter with the wilted spinach and serve immediately.

Bay Scallops with Celery Root and Tangerines Small exquisitely sweet scallops are caught off the coast of Ma.s.sachusetts and available only during the late fall and winter. The fact that I can get them for only part of the year helps preserve their special status for me. Their sugary sweet flavor makes them a dynamite partner to root vegetables or citrus fruit. This recipe sauces the scallops with pan juices flavored with tangerine and cooked celery, then pairs the seafood with a celery root salad. caught off the coast of Ma.s.sachusetts and available only during the late fall and winter. The fact that I can get them for only part of the year helps preserve their special status for me. Their sugary sweet flavor makes them a dynamite partner to root vegetables or citrus fruit. This recipe sauces the scallops with pan juices flavored with tangerine and cooked celery, then pairs the seafood with a celery root salad.

Be sure to peel the muscle-the white strip that runs down the side-off the scallops before sauteing (it's easy). Don't add the scallops to the pan until it's really hot, and then leave them alone. If you disturb them while they're searing, they'll release their moisture, and they'll steam instead of searing.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

cup Mayonnaise (page 13) 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon minced shallots cup freshly squeezed lemon juice Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper (if you only have pre-ground white pepper, use freshly ground black pepper) 1 small celery root, peeled, sliced very thin, and cut into matchsticks cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 bunch scallions, white part and the first inch of the green part only, cut into -inch pieces on the diagonal 3 stalks celery, peeled and chopped into -inch dice 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced teaspoon anise seeds 2 tangerines, skin and membrane removed, cut into segments over a bowl to save the juices 1 pounds bay scallops, tough muscles removed cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1. Mix the mayonnaise, mustard, shallots, and 2 tablespoons of the lemon juice together in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. The mayonnaise should be a.s.sertively seasoned. Add the celery root and toss well. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or until ready to use. (You can make up to 12 hours ahead.) Mix the mayonnaise, mustard, shallots, and 2 tablespoons of the lemon juice together in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. The mayonnaise should be a.s.sertively seasoned. Add the celery root and toss well. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or until ready to use. (You can make up to 12 hours ahead.) 2. Heat cup of the olive oil in a small saute pan over medium heat. Add the scallions, celery, garlic, and anise seeds, season with salt and pepper, and cook until just tender, about Heat cup of the olive oil in a small saute pan over medium heat. Add the scallions, celery, garlic, and anise seeds, season with salt and pepper, and cook until just tender, about 3 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside. minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.

3. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large saute pan over high heat. Season the scallops with salt and pepper. When the oil is hot but not quite smoking, add the scallops in a single layer, leaving a -inch s.p.a.ce between them so they don't steam (you may have to use two pans or cook them in two batches). Cook, without moving the scallops, on one side only, until they are golden brown, about 2 minutes. Toss the scallops once, then transfer to a large plate. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large saute pan over high heat. Season the scallops with salt and pepper. When the oil is hot but not quite smoking, add the scallops in a single layer, leaving a -inch s.p.a.ce between them so they don't steam (you may have to use two pans or cook them in two batches). Cook, without moving the scallops, on one side only, until they are golden brown, about 2 minutes. Toss the scallops once, then transfer to a large plate.

4. Add the tangerine juice from the segments to the pan and reduce to a glaze. (This will happen very quickly.) Add the cooked celery mixture, the remaining 2 tablespoons lemon juice, the parsley, and the tangerine sections to the pan. Toss until heated through, about 30 seconds, then remove from the heat. Add the tangerine juice from the segments to the pan and reduce to a glaze. (This will happen very quickly.) Add the cooked celery mixture, the remaining 2 tablespoons lemon juice, the parsley, and the tangerine sections to the pan. Toss until heated through, about 30 seconds, then remove from the heat.

5. Put a spoonful of the celery root salad in the middle of each warmed plate. Distribute the scallops evenly around the celery root. Spoon the vegetables and the pan juices over the scallops and serve. Put a spoonful of the celery root salad in the middle of each warmed plate. Distribute the scallops evenly around the celery root. Spoon the vegetables and the pan juices over the scallops and serve.

Skate Wings with Brown b.u.t.ter, Capers, and Ancho Skate has a satisfyingly firm texture without being chewy, a delicious sweet taste, and it's affordable. In this country, it's considered a trash fish, with a small amount diverted to devotees and upscale restaurants. Europe, especially France, happily snaps up the rest. Skate's lowly status is just fine with me. With seafood regularly commanding prices that make rib-eye steaks seem a bargain, it's a special pleasure to find great taste at a modest price. texture without being chewy, a delicious sweet taste, and it's affordable. In this country, it's considered a trash fish, with a small amount diverted to devotees and upscale restaurants. Europe, especially France, happily snaps up the rest. Skate's lowly status is just fine with me. With seafood regularly commanding prices that make rib-eye steaks seem a bargain, it's a special pleasure to find great taste at a modest price.

The skin of skate is inedible, like sharkskin, but I've never seen it sold with the skin still on. Because skate have no kidneys, they require careful handling after being caught, or the urea secreted through their skin can contaminate the flesh of the "wings, " the edible part of the fish, with ammonia. Always ask to smell skate before buying it. It should smell absolutely clean, or of nothing at all. Soaking skate in a solution of water and lemon juice will purge it of any ammonia, but why bother? I'd rather wait for the next batch.

A delicate cartilage frame fans through a skate wing, with edible fillets both above and below it. The flesh should be translucently pinkish white to rose. Once cooked, the flesh is fork-tender and slides off the cartilage. This cla.s.sic French preparation of sauteed skate with brown b.u.t.ter and capers, the first way I ever tasted it, remains my favorite. Before you make the sauce, line up your ingredients in little bowls where you can easily reach them. Read through the instructions several times before before you start cooking. The sauce isn't difficult, just speedy, with little time between each of the steps, and you won't want to waste time wondering where you put each of your ingredients. you start cooking. The sauce isn't difficult, just speedy, with little time between each of the steps, and you won't want to waste time wondering where you put each of your ingredients.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

Four 8-ounce pieces skate wing (cartilage left in) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons clarified b.u.t.ter (see page 111) 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 large shallot, minced to 1 teaspoon finely chopped rinsed anchovy fillets, according to taste 4 teaspoons capers, rinsed 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus 4 sprigs for garnish 1 lemon, cut into 4 wedges DO AHEAD: Clarify the b.u.t.ter (see page Clarify the b.u.t.ter (see page 111). 111). Clarified b.u.t.ter enables you to cook the skate at a higher temperature than you would if you used whole b.u.t.ter. Clarified b.u.t.ter enables you to cook the skate at a higher temperature than you would if you used whole b.u.t.ter.

1. Season the skate pieces on each side with salt and pepper-skate is naturally salty, so go lightly. Heat the clarified b.u.t.ter in two large saute pans over high heat until quite hot. (If you have a saute pan large enough to hold all of the skate pieces with at least 2 inches of s.p.a.ce between them then, you can use it.) Add the skate and sear on the first side until golden brown and cooked a little more than halfway through, about 5 minutes. Do not move the fish before the first side is well seared, as it will stick to the pan. Flip and cook on the other side until done, about another 4 minutes. If the fish browns too much before it's cooked through, lower the heat to medium-high. Set aside in a warm spot while you make the sauce. Season the skate pieces on each side with salt and pepper-skate is naturally salty, so go lightly. Heat the clarified b.u.t.ter in two large saute pans over high heat until quite hot. (If you have a saute pan large enough to hold all of the skate pieces with at least 2 inches of s.p.a.ce between them then, you can use it.) Add the skate and sear on the first side until golden brown and cooked a little more than halfway through, about 5 minutes. Do not move the fish before the first side is well seared, as it will stick to the pan. Flip and cook on the other side until done, about another 4 minutes. If the fish browns too much before it's cooked through, lower the heat to medium-high. Set aside in a warm spot while you make the sauce.

2. Add the whole b.u.t.ter to one of the pans and cook over high heat until it starts to foam. Immediately add the shallot and cook until it is golden and the b.u.t.ter is a pale hazelnut brown, only a minute. Add the anchovy, capers, and lemon juice. The b.u.t.ter should foam again. Remove from the heat, season with salt and pepper, and add the parsley. Add the whole b.u.t.ter to one of the pans and cook over high heat until it starts to foam. Immediately add the shallot and cook until it is golden and the b.u.t.ter is a pale hazelnut brown, only a minute. Add the anchovy, capers, and lemon juice. The b.u.t.ter should foam again. Remove from the heat, season with salt and pepper, and add the parsley.

3. Quickly put a piece of skate on each plate. Pour the brown b.u.t.ter over the fish. Add a lemon wedge and parsley sprig to each plate, and serve immediately. Quickly put a piece of skate on each plate. Pour the brown b.u.t.ter over the fish. Add a lemon wedge and parsley sprig to each plate, and serve immediately.

IS THE SKATE DONE YET?The flesh of skate wings is almost translucent, as is the cartilage frame inside each wing. As skate cooks, its flesh changes color, giving you a guide to doneness. While the skate sizzles on the first side, the color of the up side will gradually fade from a deep rose color to a paler pink. The flesh will turn opaque, beginning at the thin tapered outer edges, gradually reducing the area of pinkness in the thicker part of the piece. The flesh along the thicker edges will also change, turning opaque first in the bottom surface, then climbing up toward the midpoint, where the cartilage is. When the opaque rim has grown to 1 inch wide, it's time to flip the pieces. After you flip the pieces you can tell how you're doing by watching the thick edge. Is it opaque all the way through? Use 5 minutes per side as a rough guide. If the fish changes color more quickly, flip it sooner.

Hot-and-Spicy Seared Squid Stuffed with Sorrel This is a jazzy little recipe that is both simple to prepare and equally good served warm or at room temperature, like certain Spanish tapas or Greek meze. The hot-and-spicy part of the recipe comes from an old Spanish technique for preparing eels. Stuffing a little sorrel inside the squid was my idea. I can't cook squid without peering down the mantles (the "tubes" or bodies, minus the heads and tentacles) and thinking, recipe that is both simple to prepare and equally good served warm or at room temperature, like certain Spanish tapas or Greek meze. The hot-and-spicy part of the recipe comes from an old Spanish technique for preparing eels. Stuffing a little sorrel inside the squid was my idea. I can't cook squid without peering down the mantles (the "tubes" or bodies, minus the heads and tentacles) and thinking, Hmmm ... something ought to be cooked in there. Hmmm ... something ought to be cooked in there. Sorrel is a lovely green herb with a decidedly citrus accent, a good partner for hot and spicy flavors. The bread crumbs add texture. Don't be apprehensive about cleaning squid-most squid is already cleaned soon after it's caught, leaving minimal work for the consumer. Just make sure you buy squid large enough to contain a teaspoon or so of sorrel-the mandes need to be at least 2 and preferably 4 inches long-or you'll be stuffing them with tweezers. This recipe can easily feed six or even eight if you serve it over pasta. Sorrel is a lovely green herb with a decidedly citrus accent, a good partner for hot and spicy flavors. The bread crumbs add texture. Don't be apprehensive about cleaning squid-most squid is already cleaned soon after it's caught, leaving minimal work for the consumer. Just make sure you buy squid large enough to contain a teaspoon or so of sorrel-the mandes need to be at least 2 and preferably 4 inches long-or you'll be stuffing them with tweezers. This recipe can easily feed six or even eight if you serve it over pasta.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

2 pounds (cleaned) small squid (see Squid Notes) 2 tablespoons chopped fresh sorrel (remove tough stems before chopping) 1 cup extra virgin olive oil 8 garlic cloves, sliced paper-thin 8 small dried hot red peppers or teaspoon hot red pepper flakes Kosher salt cup slightly dry coa.r.s.e bread crumbs 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1. Make sure no cartilage, viscera, sand, or ink remains inside the squid mandes. If the translucent skin is still on the mantles, sc.r.a.pe it off with a sharp knife. Rinse out the mantles. If it is still attached, remove the beak-the balllike thing-from the center of the tentacles. Make sure no cartilage, viscera, sand, or ink remains inside the squid mandes. If the translucent skin is still on the mantles, sc.r.a.pe it off with a sharp knife. Rinse out the mantles. If it is still attached, remove the beak-the balllike thing-from the center of the tentacles.

2. Stuff a teaspoon of the chopped sorrel into each mantle. Stuff a teaspoon of the chopped sorrel into each mantle.

3. Heat the oil in a large saute pan over high heat. When it's almost smoking, add the squid, garlic, and hot peppers. Cook, tossing constantly, for 1 minute, or until the squid turns white. Scoop the squid, garlic, and peppers onto a platter and toss with salt. Heat the oil in a large saute pan over high heat. When it's almost smoking, add the squid, garlic, and hot peppers. Cook, tossing constantly, for 1 minute, or until the squid turns white. Scoop the squid, garlic, and peppers onto a platter and toss with salt.

4. Add the bread crumbs to the oil and cook until toasted. Season with salt and sprinkle over the squid. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve. Add the bread crumbs to the oil and cook until toasted. Season with salt and sprinkle over the squid. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve.

SQUID NOTESFrozen squid is quite common in supermarkets, and fresh squid is available at fishmongers, especially ones that cater to a Mediterranean clientele. Fresh squid should smell clean and perhaps slightly sweet. If the smell gives you any reservation, don't buy it. It is extremely perishable; buy it and use it the same day.Defrost frozen squid in the refrigerator or in a bowl of cold water. Most squid is cleaned right after it's caught so it can be frozen at sea; you'll probably have to do minimal cleaning. Check to see that the mantle-the long tube-like body-is completely empty. There should be no trace of remaining viscera. If there is, remove it gently with your finger, so you don't tear the mantle, and rinse under cold running water. You may also have to peel the skin from the mantle (don't bother with the tentacles unless you're cleaning a monster). The skin is a clear tinted membrane that loosely adheres to the flesh. Use a knife if you like, but you can usually peel it away with your fingernails.If you ever find you need to clean fresh squid (if you're on an island in the Mediterranean, waiting for help to arrive), here's what to do:As when working with any raw fish, make sure your hands are impeccably clean. Grasp the mantle in one hand and the tentacles and head in the other. Gently pull on the tentacles until the head begins to come away from the mantle. As you keep pulling, the narrow cartilaginous "quill" and attached viscera should emerge from the mantle. Set the mantle aside for the moment.Separate the quill and viscera from the head and discard them. Slice the head off the tentacles just below the eyes. The tentacles should still be attached together. If you get lucky, the squid beak will still be attached to the head. If so, discard the head and the bony beak inside. More likely, the beak will still be attached to the tentacles. The top of the beak is round, like a marble; the business end, which points down between the tentacles, is shaped like a beak. Pinch the tentacles where they all join together. The beak should pop out from the tentacle cl.u.s.ter. Remove it and discard.Peel the skin off the mantle. Some people also trim the "wings" (the fins) off the body, especially if they intend to cut the body crosswise to make squid rings. If the wings are tough, I cut them off; if not, I leave them alone. Refrigerate until ready to cook.

Roast Cod in Terra-Cotta, with Bacon and Horseradish Here's a delicious puzzle: How do you roast cod, potatoes, leeks, and spinach in a single terracotta dish without turning everything to mush by the time the potatoes are done? The solution is to partly bake the layer of potatoes first, then add the remaining ingredients. The layer of bacon and leeks flavors the potatoes below and the cod above so the mixture tastes as though everything were cooked at the same time. A terra-cotta ca.s.serole has a rustic charm, can travel directly to the table, and holds heat so the food stays warm throughout the meal. do you roast cod, potatoes, leeks, and spinach in a single terracotta dish without turning everything to mush by the time the potatoes are done? The solution is to partly bake the layer of potatoes first, then add the remaining ingredients. The layer of bacon and leeks flavors the potatoes below and the cod above so the mixture tastes as though everything were cooked at the same time. A terra-cotta ca.s.serole has a rustic charm, can travel directly to the table, and holds heat so the food stays warm throughout the meal.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

8 Red Bliss potatoes, scrubbed and cut into -inch-thick slices cup extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 ounces smoked bacon, chopped into -inch dice 2 large leeks, white part only, trimmed of roots and tough outer leaves, sliced inch thick, and swirled vigorously in a bowl of cold water to remove any grit 2 celery stalks, peeled and chopped into -inch dice 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 cup dry vermouth 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme, plus 4 sprigs for garnish 6 ounces flat-leaf spinach, trimmed of thick stems, washed, and dried Four 6-ounce cod fillets, skin removed 1 cup heavy cream cup prepared horseradish, drained if necessary cup dry bread crumbs 1. Preheat the oven to 375F. Preheat the oven to 375F.

2. Toss the potatoes with 2 tablespoons of the oil and season with salt and pepper. Layer evenly in a 3-quart terra-cotta or ceramic ca.s.serole and bake for 30 minutes. Toss the potatoes with 2 tablespoons of the oil and season with salt and pepper. Layer evenly in a 3-quart terra-cotta or ceramic ca.s.serole and bake for 30 minutes.

3. While the potatoes are roasting, cook the bacon in a large saute pan over medium heat until it renders its fat, about 5 minutes-stop before it gets too crispy. Remove the bacon from the pan and set aside. While the potatoes are roasting, cook the bacon in a large saute pan over medium heat until it renders its fat, about 5 minutes-stop before it gets too crispy. Remove the bacon from the pan and set aside.

4. Add the leeks and celery to the pan and season with salt and pepper. Cook until tender, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, about a minute. Add Add the leeks and celery to the pan and season with salt and pepper. Cook until tender, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, about a minute. Add cup of the vermouth and, as it heats, sc.r.a.pe the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to dissolve the crispy bits. Stir in the tarragon and thyme and take the pan off the heat. cup of the vermouth and, as it heats, sc.r.a.pe the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to dissolve the crispy bits. Stir in the tarragon and thyme and take the pan off the heat.

5. Lay the spinach over the potatoes, season with salt and pepper, and then cover with the leek and bacon mixture. Season the cod fillets with salt and pepper and set on top of the vegetables. Pour the remaining cup vermouth over the fish and drizzle with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Cover with foil, pressing the foil down so it touches the fish, and bake for 15 minutes. Lay the spinach over the potatoes, season with salt and pepper, and then cover with the leek and bacon mixture. Season the cod fillets with salt and pepper and set on top of the vegetables. Pour the remaining cup vermouth over the fish and drizzle with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Cover with foil, pressing the foil down so it touches the fish, and bake for 15 minutes.

6. While the cod is cooking, whip the cream and horseradish together until the mixture holds soft peaks. Season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate until ready to serve. While the cod is cooking, whip the cream and horseradish together until the mixture holds soft peaks. Season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

7. After the fish has baked for 15 minutes, remove the foil, sprinkle with the bread crumbs, and drizzle with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Roast for 5 minutes more, or until the crumbs are golden brown and the cod is opaque. Garnish with the thyme sprigs and serve, offering the horseradish cream on the side. After the fish has baked for 15 minutes, remove the foil, sprinkle with the bread crumbs, and drizzle with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Roast for 5 minutes more, or until the crumbs are golden brown and the cod is opaque. Garnish with the thyme sprigs and serve, offering the horseradish cream on the side.

Halibut Braised in Ginger-Lemongra.s.s Broth with Cilantro, Basil, and Mint This dish is as close a foray into fusion cuisine as you'll ever see me make. Lemongra.s.s isn't a Mediterranean herb, although I think it would feel right at home in Provence, paired with basil. I tried to develop this dish as an alternative to my usual Mediterranean treatment of halibut, but my technique kept steering me in the direction of the a foray into fusion cuisine as you'll ever see me make. Lemongra.s.s isn't a Mediterranean herb, although I think it would feel right at home in Provence, paired with basil. I tried to develop this dish as an alternative to my usual Mediterranean treatment of halibut, but my technique kept steering me in the direction of the bourride, bourride, a fish soup from southern France. The result is a piece of lightly cooked fish sitting in an extraordinary aromatic mixture of broth and Asian vegetables. If I were to strictly adhere to an Asian (or nonfat) approach, the herbs, halibut, mushrooms, and other vegetables would simply be poached in the broth. But it was too hard for me to resist sauteing them, in extra virgin olive oil or b.u.t.ter, before adding them to the broth. Then the entire dish simmers together just before serving. a fish soup from southern France. The result is a piece of lightly cooked fish sitting in an extraordinary aromatic mixture of broth and Asian vegetables. If I were to strictly adhere to an Asian (or nonfat) approach, the herbs, halibut, mushrooms, and other vegetables would simply be poached in the broth. But it was too hard for me to resist sauteing them, in extra virgin olive oil or b.u.t.ter, before adding them to the broth. Then the entire dish simmers together just before serving.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

BROTH.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 large onion, sliced inch thick 4 garlic cloves, coa.r.s.ely chopped 1 ounce fresh ginger, thinly sliced Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 6 stalks lemongra.s.s, finely chopped (remove any tough ends or hard outer husks before chopping) teaspoon hot red pepper flakes 1 tablespoon coriander seeds 4 bay leaves 1 cup dry white wine 4 cups Fish Stock (page 33) or 2 cups high-quality low-sodium canned chicken broth combined with 2 cups bottled clam juice