(*Footnote. As the reader will perceive by a glance at the chart accompanying this work.)

The general appearance of the head of the Gulf is that of a low mangrove sh.o.r.e, between ten and thirty feet high, over which the interior is not visible from the offing.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE CLIMATE AND WINDS IN THE GULF.

During our visit to this part of the continent we found the climate well suited for Europeans; but what it might be in the middle of the north-west monsoon we had no opportunity of ascertaining. At its commencement in the month of November, Flinders found the thermometer to range on board between 81 and 90 degrees; but on sh.o.r.e, he says, that in the course of the day it might have been about seven degrees higher; the temperature, however, being alleviated by constant breezes either from sea or land, it was seldom oppressive. In July, as I have already stated, the thermometer, on one occasion, at 5 A.M., was down to 51 degrees; and on another, at noon, up to 87 degrees, being, in the first instance, six degrees lower than it was on board, and in the second, seven degrees higher, which gave an excess in the sh.o.r.e range of thirteen degrees.

Generally on the land it was below 62 degrees before 7 A.M. and after 6 P.M. The range of the barometer in November was from 29.70 to 30.06; whilst with us, in July, its maximum height was 30.08, and minimum 30.02; the lowest being in both seasons with winds from the land, coinciding with what had been observed on other parts of the continent, that winds from the sea raise the mercury, and those from the land depress it.

The winds in July were fresh from South to South-East for about two days before and after the change in the moon. They began at midnight, increasing to almost a strong breeze between five and six in the morning, and dying away again towards noon, when a calm of five hours duration succeeded; at other times light land and seabreezes prevailed.

It will appear from this description of the winds in the Gulf of Carpentaria that they bear a great similarity to those experienced at the same season on the North-West coast, near Depuch Island; and the circ.u.mstance of the temperature being lowest when they were strongest from the land is also the same. This was there supposed to have been occasioned by the great radiation of heat from the land over which they blew; but as the country at the head of the Gulf of Carpentaria is not of a cold clayey nature, the idea is naturally suggested that there must be a great extent of swampy ground in the interior, which strengthens the opinion I have before expressed.

SUPPOSED ISLANDS.

After hoisting in the boats we shaped a course along the eastern sh.o.r.e of the Gulf towards b.o.o.by Island. Our being obliged to return thither, for a chronometric departure prevented our examining the middle of the upper part of the Gulf, where, according to certain vague reports, there exist islands. It is stated, for example, that after the south-west monsoon has set in strongly, numbers of coconuts are thrown on the north-west sh.o.r.e of the Gulf of Carpentaria. In the year 1839, moreover, a small proa was driven off the coast of Timor Laut during the north-west monsoon. The wind blowing hard drifted them to the South-East for three days and three nights, when they came to a low island, with no traces of inhabitants, and abounding in coconut trees, upon the fruit of which they lived until the monsoon changed, when they sailed back to Timor Laut. Flinders, when off Batavia River, on the North-East side of the Gulf, was led to suppose that an island existed to seaward of him, from seeing some flocks of geese coming from that direction one morning. Wilson, also, in his Voyage round the World, speaks of the Maca.s.sar people reporting an island in the Gulf of Carpentaria, with sandalwood growing on it.

EXAMINE ENDEAVOUR STRAIT.

Soon after daylight on the 13th, we anch.o.r.ed under b.o.o.by Island,* the flagstaff bearing East-South-East half a mile to the south. The weather looked unusually threatening the previous night. Between the observations for rating the chronometers I fulfilled my intention of making a cursory examination of the entrance of Endeavour Strait, and anch.o.r.ed a mile and three quarters off the North Wallis Island, bearing South 23 degrees East. It is a conical rocky isle, upwards of 70 feet high, of a coa.r.s.e sandstone formation; an extensive coral reef fronts it on all sides, except the north. The result of a night's observations on sh.o.r.e placed the summit in lat.i.tude 10 degrees 51 minutes 25 seconds South; the true bearing of b.o.o.by Island was North 22 degrees 13 minutes West. The natives appear to make a cemetery of this island; for on a small sandy point on the north side we found a large grave, covered with turtle backs, and containing several skeletons. This is a very different mode of burial from that noticed in Flinders River.

(*Footnote. The result of the whole of our observations at this island are as follows: Lat.i.tude of the west point 10 degrees 36 minutes 42 seconds South, longitude, 141 degrees 57 minutes 45 seconds East; variation, 7 degrees 0 minutes East. The tides are equally strange here and in Endeavour Strait; the stream setting to the westward (West-South-West to West-North-West) from nineteen to twenty hours, and to the northward and eastward (North to North-East) only from four to five hours. The latter stream commences about an hour before high-water, which takes place at 4.30, on the full and change days, when the rise at springs is 12 feet, and at neaps 7; the length of flood and ebb is nearly six hours.)

Leaving our anchorage, we steered West 1/4 North, six miles, in soundings of 6 and 7 fathoms. We then crossed in 4 1/2 and 5 fathoms, North Wallis Island bearing South 75 minutes East, a ridge which appeared to be an elbow of the spit extending off the latter, and forming the south side of the channel. Continuing the same course, the depth soon increased to 6 and 7 fathoms. This was highly satisfactory, as it proved there was water for the largest vessels.* In the afternoon we anch.o.r.ed again under b.o.o.by Island.**

(*Footnote. Captain Blackwood's recent survey of this Strait confirms my opinion of its being the best pa.s.sage through this part of Torres Strait.)

(**Footnote. The following is the extract from the game book referred to in a former page: b.o.o.by Island (June and August) 145 quails, 18 pigeons, 12 rails, of two kinds, 3 doves; Van Diemen's Inlet (July) 14 doves, 6 pigeons, 1 native companion; Bountiful Island (July) 8 quails, 11 doves, 1 pheasant, 3 plovers, 4 white c.o.c.katoos; Sweers Island (July) 151 quails, 87 doves, 20 pigeons, 3 pheasants, 8 white and 2 black c.o.c.katoos, 5 spurwing plovers; Disaster Inlet (July) 36 ducks, 9 white c.o.c.katoos, 2 native companions, 1 green ibis; on the coast (July) 10 curlews and plovers; Flinders River (July) 10 ducks, 5 rose-coloured c.o.c.katoos, 4 pigeons, 3 spurwing plovers, 1 rail of a new species, 1 white ibis, 1 spoonbill; Albert River (August) 20 ducks, 4 large water rails, 2 pheasants; between Van Diemen's Inlet and Flinders' River (August) 12 c.o.c.katoos, 1 kangaroo (Macropus unguifer); Wallis Isles (August) 6 quails, 6 doves, 1 pigeon.)

LOOK FOR CAPE WESSEL.

On the evening of the next day, the 17th, we weighed, and steered West by South across the Gulf; and in the afternoon of the 18th pa.s.sed eleven miles from Cape Wessel, according to the position a.s.signed to it in the chart: but as the weather was tolerably clear, and nothing was seen of it, there appeared to be some truth in the report I had previously heard of its being to the southward of the position given to it.

The wind freshened by midnight, and, as usual, became more southerly, that is to say, South-South-East, whilst during the day it was generally East-South-East and East, and very much lighter. The current was steady at North-West by West from half a knot to three-quarters per hour, maintaining about the same direction and strength as in 1839. On the evening of the 19th we crossed the meridian of the centre of New Year Island, which our observations placed in 8 degrees 52 minutes west of b.o.o.by Island, one mile less than Flinders.

RETURN TO PORT ESSINGTON.

It was late in the afternoon of the 20th before we reached an anchorage off the settlement of Victoria, where we met Captain Stanley, who had just returned in the Britomart from a cruise in the Arafura Sea, of which the reader will find an interesting account, from his own pen, in the following chapter.

CHAPTER 2.10. INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO.

Leave Port Essington.

Dobbo Island.

Visit from the Schoolmaster.

Church.

Trade of the Arrou Islands.

Their productions.

Visit from Natives.

The Banda Group.

Penal Settlement.

Adventures of a Javanese.

Captain de Stuers.

Native dance and sports.

Nutmeg Plantations.

Mode of preserving the fruit.

Amboyna.

Visit a natural grotto.

Sail from Amboyna.

Island of Kissa.

Village of Wauriti.

Missionary establishment.

Serwatty Group.

Return to Port Essington.

SAIL FOR DOBBO.

We sailed from Port Essington on the 19th of June, and found a very heavy confused sea running outside, which made the topsides leak so much that we were obliged to have recourse to the pump every hour. On the second day we made the south end of the Arrou Islands, the lat.i.tude of which agrees with the position a.s.signed to it in the Admiralty Chart. On attempting to close the land, which is very low, we shoaled the water suddenly from 15 to 6 fathoms, when at some distance from the sh.o.r.e, and from the heavy sea running, and the appearance of the land, I did not think it prudent to stand in closer, but steered to the northward towards Dobbo. At sunset we anch.o.r.ed off the village of Maykor, situated at the entrance of a small inlet, and had a visit from an old man who had been lately appointed Orangtua by the Captain of a Dutch frigate, that had touched on the coast. He was very dirty, talked a great deal, and imbibed a considerable quant.i.ty of brandy and arrack. We allowed him to remain on board till daylight, when he returned to his village, leaving one of his boat's crew behind to pilot us round to Dobbo.

After leaving Maykor, we had very deep water until we came abreast the island of Babi, off which a shoal extends to the eastward two miles. We crossed the end of it in 8 fathoms, and immediately afterwards deepened our water to 15; and did not again strike soundings until we were close off the old Dutch fort, at the entrance of Dobbo harbour. Here we anch.o.r.ed, as I wished to see the native village close to it.

The anchor was hardly let go, when the monotonous sound of a tom-tom gave notice of the approach of some chief; and shortly afterwards, a boat, carrying a huge Dutch flag, was seen pulling towards the brig, with a great many round-bladed paddles.

VISIT FROM THE SCHOOLMASTER.

Seated in state, in the stern sheets, was an old man dressed in a long black serge coat and trousers, with a white shirt and handkerchief. His servant who sat behind him, attempted to protect him from a heavy shower by holding over his head, with very great care, an old Chinese umbrella that leaked like a sieve.

The old man, on coming on board, introduced himself as the schoolmaster of the village, and gave us a pressing invitation to land and inspect the church, of which he seemed to be very proud. A younger man, who accompanied him, he introduced as the Orang kaya of the village. As the rain still continued, I invited them into the cabin, where they were much delighted at all they saw; and, during the conference, they expressed much surprise at being told that all Englishmen were Christians. The chief of Wakan, an island which forms the other side of the entrance to Dobbo harbour, also favoured us with a visit. He came to request us to a.s.sist him in waging war against the chief of a neighbouring island, and did not at all understand our refusing his pet.i.tion.

CHURCH AT DOBBO.

As soon as the rain cleared off, our visitors landed, and Mr. Earl and myself soon followed them to their village, where they were all drawn up to receive us, and saluted us with one musket. We were conducted to the village in state, and immediately taken to see the church, which had been a nice building, capable of holding all the inhabitants of the place; but it had latterly been allowed to get very much out of repair. In the font they had placed a saucer containing a small coin, as a hint that we should contribute something towards the restoration of the church, which was not thrown away, and most probably led to the largest donation the church had received for some time. After inspecting the church and village, we walked for some distance along the beach, and saw a great many parrots, parakeets, and large wood-pigeons, of varied and beautiful plumage, flying amongst the splendid kanari* trees, which, from all accounts, afford most valuable timber for ship-building.

(*Footnote. Cannarium commune.)

June 23.

Mr. Earl and myself visited the village of Dobbo. We found it very little changed since our last visit. The trading vessels had all sailed, but the village was occupied by a few Dutch traders from Maca.s.sar, some dozen Chinese, and about 300 Bughis and Maca.s.sars; the greater portion of whom were preparing to visit the eastern side of the group to collect the produce for the vessels expected to arrive at the setting-in of the westerly monsoon.

The only sea-going vessels in the harbour were two large Maca.s.sar proas and a Ceramese junk; which were to sail in a few days.

Whilst I was employed, making astronomical observations to determine the position of the point, Mr. Earl obtained considerable information from the traders.

TRADE OF THE ARROU ISLANDS.

The commerce of these islands appears to have increased considerably of late years, four or five ships and brigs, with a number of Maca.s.sar and Bughis proas, whose united crews were said to have amounted to 5,000 persons, having sailed with cargoes about two months previous to our visit.

The produce of the Arrou Islands consists chiefly of pearls, mother-of-pearl sh.e.l.l, tortoise-sh.e.l.l, birds of paradise, and Trepang; but the trade of Dobbo is not dependent on the productions of the Arrou Islands alone. The Bughis proas import large quant.i.ties of British calico, iron, hardware, muskets, gunpowder, etc. from Singapore, to obtain which Dobbo is visited by the natives of Ceram, Buru, New Guinea, and of all the adjacent islands, it being the only spot in this part of the world where British manufactures can at present be procured. The articles brought for sale from New Guinea consist of nutmegs, tortoise and mother-of-pearl sh.e.l.l, ambergris, birds-of-paradise, ebony, clove, and Ma.s.say bark, rosamala (an odoriferous wood) and Kayu-buku, a wood much prized for cabinet-work. British calicoes and iron are the princ.i.p.al articles taken in exchange for these by the proas from New Guinea.