When the course was shaped for Point Barrow, n.o.ble Island, a very remarkable pyramidal-shaped rocky height, was a point on the port bow.

Its singular appearance makes it conspicuous amid the recollections of this part of the coast.

We now once more approached to within a distance of seven miles of the mainland, which presented to our view a low sandy sh.o.r.e, with a few remarkable hummocks rising over it, and somewhat high, broken, rocky land immediately behind.

CAPE MELVILLE.

Pa.s.sing Point Barrow we anch.o.r.ed near the north end of a large reef, Cape Melville bearing West-North-West ten miles. Here we felt a swell rolling in from seaward, and during the day there had been a current in our favour, of about a mile an hour. From the haze on the horizon, noticed from this anchorage, as well as on pa.s.sing Cape Melville, I believe the outer edge of the Barrier Reef to be not more than four or five leagues distant from the land.

Our attention had been previously directed by Captain King and others, to the singular appearance of the rocks on Cape Melville; indeed no one can pa.s.s this remarkable projection without being struck by the strange manner in which piles of reddish-coloured stones are scattered about in the utmost confusion, and in every possible direction over this high ridge. I much regretted that on pa.s.sing next morning there was no opportunity of landing to see the nature of this confused ma.s.s; judging, however, from the result of my examination of a similar appearance presented by Depuch Island on the north-west coast, I believe this point to be of volcanic origin.

CAPE FLINDERS.

Between the rocks off Cape Melville, and a reef encircling two small islets, the channel is not more than a mile in width: indeed, I consider pa.s.sing this point and Cape Flinders the most intricate part of the inner route. After rounding the rocks off the former we steered for the latter Cape, keeping it a little on the port bow; this course led us on reef a, lying midway between the Cape and a low island to the North-East. When on the southern extremity Cape Flinders bore South 70 degrees West 3 miles, and Clack Island North 39 degrees West. The latter is a remarkable cliffy lump, interesting from the circ.u.mstance of Mr. Cunningham having found native drawings in its caves.

After clearing this danger, and pa.s.sing the Cape, we steered across Princess Charlotte Bay, keeping wide to the southward of the reefs fronting it, in order that we might the more easily distinguish them; the sun at that time of the day being in the direction of the ship's head.

The soundings gradually decreased with a soft muddy bottom, as we approached the eastern sh.o.r.es of the bay; which is so large and free from shoals, that a vessel not wishing to anchor might pa.s.s the night standing off and on with perfect safety. There is over the head of this bay a remarkable level-topped hill, called by Captain Cook, Janes' tableland; rendered the more conspicuous from the low nature of the surrounding country.

SECTION OF CORAL REEF.

In the evening we anch.o.r.ed a mile from the South-West side of a small detached reef, marked F in the chart, and distant 22 miles from Cape Flinders; the solitary position of this reef, it being four miles from the inner edge of the Great Barrier, and nine from the nearest part of the main, gave us a good opportunity of making a section, with a view of ill.u.s.trating the progressive structure of coral edifices, in the still waters within the barrier reef; we accordingly visited the spot in the evening, and being an interesting object, we give a drawing of the section.

It proved a good specimen of the circular or lagoon reef. One young mangrove was growing on the elevated part marked C in the woodcut. The rim which rose on all sides was quite black, but white when broken; the highest part being about three feet above the water. The nature of the bottom within the reef was a white sand mixed with small pieces of dead coral: without, we found on either side soft green sandy mud with sh.e.l.ls, the inclination of the bottom on which the reef rests, being only one degree, we may fairly infer it to be superimposed on a most extensive basis.

CLAREMONT ISLES.

July 7.

To-day being Sunday we did not proceed further than Number 4 of the Claremont Isles, a low rocky group encircled by coral reefs, to give the ship's company a run on sh.o.r.e during the afternoon; in order to remind them of its being a day of rest appointed by the Lord. When we anch.o.r.ed, we found, contrary to the usual north-westerly tendency of the current, a tide setting South-South-West three quarters of a knot an hour, this lasted for a s.p.a.ce of four hours, when it changed, and ran North-North-West from half to three quarters of a knot during the remainder of our stay. The wind was moderate from East-South-East.

July 8.

We weighed at 6 A.M., and about the same hour in the evening again anch.o.r.ed under Restoration Island. The ship's track during the day followed the trend of the land, keeping about seven miles from it, except when opposite Cape Direction, where we were about half that distance from the sh.o.r.e. We found little to add to Captain King's chart, with the exception of some reefs lying about ten miles east from the above-mentioned headland.

CORDILLERA.

The coast here again attained a moderate height, and a round hill ten miles south of Cape Direction, reached the height of 1250 feet; its lat.i.tude being 13 degrees South is nearly five degrees and a half north of where the Cordillera is 3500 feet high, and 23 1/2 degrees of where it attains its greatest elevation, that of 6500 feet; a fact which will at once demonstrate the northerly tendency in the dip of the chain of hills.

This degree is further ill.u.s.trated by the height of Pudding-pan Hill in 11 degrees 19 minutes South being only 384 feet. From the data given, despite the limited number of our facts, it will be seen that the dip becomes gradually more rapid as you advance to the northward.

South-East from Cape Sidmouth the pa.s.sage was much contracted by a covered rock in the very centre of the channel; this may be avoided by keeping close to the West side of island Number 6. Restoration is a lofty rocky lump, terminating in a peak 360 feet high. A smaller islet of the same character lies about half a mile off its South-East side; there is also a remarkable peak on the sh.o.r.e, four miles to the southward. This part of the coast is thus rendered very conspicuous from seaward, and may be discerned outside the Barrier reefs. Restoration Island is a point of some interest from having been first visited in 1789 by Captain Bligh, during his extraordinary and unparalleled voyage in the Bounty launch, from the Society Islands. The dangers and perils undergone by this undaunted voyager, and our consciousness of the joy which the sight of land must have brought to his heart, gave much zest to our feelings with regard to the locality. There is always an interest in connection with scenes a.s.sociated with a name such as that of Bligh, but to us the interest was double; it was the sympathy of seamen with a brother sailor's misfortunes.

RESTORATION ISLAND.

As Captain King had not examined this interesting spot, we thought his chart would be greatly improved by our pa.s.sing a day in the place; this was the more necessary as we found it to be a snug anchorage and convenient place for ships pa.s.sing. The name of Restoration Island was given it by Bligh, from the circ.u.mstance of his having made it upon the anniversary of the recall of Charles II. to the throne of England.

July 9.

The surveying operations necessary to perfect the chart of this neighbourhood, afforded ample employment during the day. The weather being dull, with pa.s.sing rain, and squalls, the view I had antic.i.p.ated enjoying from the summit of the island was quite destroyed. Like Cape Upstart and Lizard Island it is a granite ma.s.s. Dead coral was found on the western side, ten feet above high-water mark, a fact which in some measure supports what I have stated in connection with the raised beach on Cape Upstart. A low sandy tongue of land forms the South-West extreme, leaving a narrow pa.s.sage between it and the main. This flat is covered with brushwood, gumtrees, and a few palms. The observations were made on this point, and the results were as follow: lat.i.tude 12 degrees 37 minutes 30 seconds South, longitude 11 degrees 16 3/4 minutes East of Port Essington.

July 10.

The morning broke with the same dull, gloomy weather, the wind fresh at South-East and continued thus during the day, slightly diversified by a few pa.s.sing rain squalls. Soon after daylight we were again on our pa.s.sage, the cloudy weather enabling us to make out the Eastern reefs, which at high-water are covered, and consequently difficult to be seen in that direction in the morning. They front Quoin and Forbes Islands, remarkable rocky lumps, more so, however, from the extreme lowness of those in their vicinity, than from their own magnitude. The latter was found to be 340 feet high. A North-West by North course from Restoration brought us to Piper Islands. The soundings were from 11 to 13 fathoms, with a greater proportion of sand in the quality of the bottom than had been before noticed.

SIR EVERARD HOME'S ISLANDS.

Pa.s.sing between them and reefs H and I also between Young Island (an elevated reef, with one small mangrove growing on the highest part) and reef M, we hauled up North-East by North round the north end of the latter, to weather Sir Everard Home's Islands, a low group connected by shoal water and extending about four miles from Cape Grenville. We pa.s.sed midway between them and Haggerston's Islands, a square lump 240 feet high.

c.o.c.kBURN ISLANDS.

Sir Charles Hardy's and the c.o.c.kburn Isles are also conspicuous objects in this neighbourhood, particularly the former, which is visible from outside the Barrier, and thus forms a leading mark for ships making their way through these reefs.

In the evening the anchor was dropped about a mile from the north side of the Bird Isles in ten fathoms, a sudden degree from fifteen, just before standing in West-South-West to the anchorage. Five miles South-East by East from these isles, we pa.s.sed close to the position of a patch of shoal water, according to the chart: its presence, however, was not detected, the depth at the time being nineteen fathoms. The only additions made to the chart during the day were a few soundings, besides increasing the number and altering the position of c.o.c.kburn Islands, with the reefs fronting them. The number of these isles is thus increased from two to four; they are square rocky lumps, the largest being three hundred feet high. The current during the day set steadily North-West almost a mile an hour. On anchoring we found it setting West-North-West at the same rate. At midnight it changed its direction to East-South-East from a quarter to half a knot an hour. The time of high-water being about 6 A.M., it is evident the flood-stream came here from South or South-East.

The islands pa.s.sed during the day, were of a small lagoon character and the reefs oval-shaped, with an elevated patch of dead coral at their north extreme, which had the appearance, at a distance, of sand. The mainland had much changed in outline, having subsided into a wearisome series of undulating hills, varying from five to seven hundred feet in height. The coast was, therefore, utterly void of any feature of interest, after pa.s.sing Fair Cape.

July 11.

At daylight we were again underway and steered North by East for the purpose of ascertaining if there were any reefs to the eastward of u and v. When Number 1 of a group next south of Cairncross bore North 43 degrees West four and a half miles the course was changed to West-North-West to pa.s.s between the reef fronting its south side and reef w where we had a depth of 20 fathoms; both of these we found it necessary to enlarge on the chart. At the time of altering the course, the ship was West-North-West two miles from the position of an island according to chart; but as we did not see it, and as Captain King has not laid it down upon his own authority, we may safely conclude that it either does not exist, or that it is much out of position.

BOYDAN ISLAND.

Rounding the reef off its south extremity, we anch.o.r.ed in 18 fathoms, one mile South 65 degrees West from the centre of the island before mentioned--Number 1 of the group South of Cairncross--shortly before noon. This Captain King supposes to be Boydan, that on which the crew of the Charles Eaton were ma.s.sacred. It was therefore determined that the remainder of the day should be spent in examining the place, with a view to ascertain the correctness of this supposition. The melancholy interest of the search was to me greatly enhanced, from having seen at Sydney young D'Oyly, one of the survivors of this ill-fated party, and son of an Indian officer returning from furlough. Being an infant, his helplessness excited the sympathies of an Indian woman, who s.n.a.t.c.hed him from the arms of his murdered mother, and sheltered him within her own. Nor did her kindness stop here, the never-failing maternal solicitude of the s.e.x, inducing her to protect and console the child.

EXAMINATION OF BOYDAN ISLAND.

We had just read Captain P.P. King's interesting pamphlet in relation to this sad event, detailing with minuteness all the circ.u.mstances of the tragedy, and with our minds so recently imbued with the horrors it inspired, naturally advanced to the search with zeal and activity; anxious, if possible, to place the locality of its occurrence beyond a doubt. The isle was easily traversed, being of small extent, not more, indeed, than a mile in circ.u.mference. We crossed it accordingly in every direction, and discovered the remains of native fires, near which great quant.i.ties of turtle bones, and some coconut sh.e.l.ls were scattered about.

It was remarkable that wherever boughs were cut, an axe or some other sharp instrument had been used. A topmast with the lower cap attached to it, was found on the South-East side of the island, which we afterwards discovered to be a portion of the brig William, wrecked on the outer barrier three months before.

Captain King drew his conclusions relative to this island from the circ.u.mstance of young Ireland's stating, that on their way to it in the canoe, after leaving the raft, they first pa.s.sed three islands on the right northward, and one on the left southward.

CORRECT CHART.

From the bearings, however, and from our run on the following morning we found it necessary to correct the chart, thus decreasing the number of islands. We found that marked 5, to have no existence, and 6, far too much to the westward, while 8 and 10 were placed to the eastward of their true position. These errors occasionally occur where they are numerous, much alike, and are pa.s.sed quickly. The change in the number and position of the islands is in some measure hostile to the views of Captain King, and I am further inclined, from these corrections, to draw the conclusion that Number 4 of the group is Boydan island, a name given by the Murray islanders, to the spot rendered notorious by the cold-blooded ma.s.sacre we have already alluded to, and which will be described more in detail in Captain Stanley's highly interesting narrative, further on in the present work.

On examining the reef fronting the island, which is a more perfect specimen of a lagoon than any we had yet seen, we found that the outer edge consisted of a wall higher than any of the parts within, rising at low-water, to an elevation of ten feet, while inside, pools or holes existed, three or four feet deep, containing live coral, sponges, sea-eggs, and trepang. Scattered about on different parts of the reef were many Chama gigas, not, however, so large as those I had formerly seen at Keeling or Cocos Islands, in the Indian Ocean, weighing 220 pounds.

Singular to say, at 3 P.M., I observed the lat.i.tude by a meridian alt.i.tude of Venus, although a bright sunny day. The result agreed with Captain King's chart, placing the centre of the island in lat.i.tude 11 degrees 28 minutes South.

TIDAL OBSERVATIONS.

We experienced more tide here than at any anchorage we had yet occupied during the pa.s.sage. From 1 to 5 P.M., it set half an knot an hour to the southward, then changed to North-West by North, increasing its rate to one knot by 10 o'clock, and decreasing it to a quarter of a knot by 2 A.M., when it again set to the South-South-West. The stream thus appears to set nine hours North-West by North and three South-South-West. The short duration of the latter, which is the ebb, is caused by the northerly direction of the prevailing current. This also was the only spot where our fishermen had any success; in a few hours several dozen of a species of small red bream being caught.

Three or four ships pa.s.sing together would find a secure berth about two miles North-North-East of where the Beagle anch.o.r.ed, where the depth is moderate, with good holding ground. It has great advantage in this particular over Cairncross, where but one vessel could lie snug, and still greater over Turtle Island, more exposed even than the former with a strong tide, and where vessels ride very uneasily. Moreover the supposed Boydan, or Number 1 isle, can be left a full hour before daylight, there being nothing in the way to impede a ship's progress for some miles. Those who are not desirous of pa.s.sing the reefs off Wednesday and Hammond Islands, late in the day, with the sun in an unfavourable position, can find a convenient stopping place in Blackwood Bay under the largest York isle, or under the Cape of that name.

CAIRNCROSS ISLAND.

July 12.

We left at an early hour, steering North-North-West 1/2 West for Cairncross Island, which we pa.s.sed at a distance of half a mile from the eastern side in 16 fathoms. Its height is seventy-five feet to the tops of the trees, which, according to Mr. Bynoe, who subsequently visited it in the month of September, are dwarf gums. The tea-tree of the colonists is also found here, in addition to some small bushes. This island is the resort of a large bright cream-coloured pigeon (Carpophaga leucomela) the ends of the wings being tipped with black, or very dark blue. Mr. Bynoe found the island quite alive with them; flocks of about twenty or thirty flying continually to and from the main. They not only resort but breed there, as he found several old nests. As this bird was not met with in the Beagle on the western coast, we may fairly conclude it only inhabits the eastern and northern; the furthest south it was seen by the officers of H.M.S. Britomart was lat.i.tude 20 degrees. In addition to these, Mr.

Bynoe saw the holes of some small burrowing animals, which are doubtless rats. On a sandy spit, close to the bushes or scrub, he saw a native encampment of a semicircular form, enclosing an area of about ten yards.

The occupants had but recently left it, as a fire was found burning, and the impression of their feet still fresh in the sand. It appears that at this season of the year, being the favourable monsoon for ships pa.s.sing through the Barrier reefs on their voyage to India, the islands to the southward are much frequented by the natives of Murray and others of the northern isles, waiting, like wreckers of old, the untoward loss of some ill-fated ship, when their canoes appear as if by magic, hastening to the doomed vessel; just as in the Pampas of South America, no sooner has the sportsman brought down a deer than the air is filled with myriads of vultures winging their way towards the carca.s.s, though a few minutes before not a feather was stirring. The long-sightedness of these Indians resembles that of the carrion bird itself,* while their rapacity and recklessness of blood is fully equal to that of the lower animal.