RETURN OF THE BOATS.

March 29.

We reached the ship this morning, entering Port Usborne by a narrow rocky channel, on its North-West sh.o.r.e; on the precipitous sides in this pa.s.sage we noticed several of the Rock Kangaroo.

We found that Mr. Usborne had returned three days before us: from his account of the islands he had visited, they appear to have the same sterile character as most of those we had seen; in other respects, his trip was void of interest, beyond that of surveying. During the absence of the boats, tidal and magnetic observations had been made, some specimens in Natural History had been collected, and all that could in any way add to the interest of the expedition, had been as well attended to as the means placed at our disposal would allow.

We closed at Port Usborne our explorations in King's Sound, the result of which enabled us to fill up the gap long existing in the charts of the North-west coast of Australia, and which had for years been the theme of much ingenious geographical speculation. The result of our labours, if it had been less brilliant than eager antic.i.p.ation at the onset led us to hope for, had nevertheless been on the whole satisfactory. The river Fitzroy, although not of the magnitude that we hoped to find, was still an undoubtedly valuable acquisition to our stock of geographical knowledge, and offered a way of access into the interior, of which we had availed ourselves to the extent of 90 miles, and which subsequent explorers might yet further improve: while in many minor yet important matters, much had been done, and much seen, to more than compensate for the disappointments and annoyances inseparable from the pursuits of the adventurer.

LEAVING PORT USBORNE.

March 30.

The morning was unusually stormy, dark clouds rested upon the adjacent high land, while others no less portentous hurried past us on the wings of the tempest. Soon after breakfast, we bade adieu to the wild scenery of Port Usborne, and stood across the Sound, for our old anchorage on the north side of Point Cunningham, distant one and twenty miles. In the mouth of the harbour we pa.s.sed over a coral knoll, having five fathoms on it. We did not, however, reach our destination till nearly 6 P.M., having been taken some distance up the Sound, by the flood-tide. Our soundings in crossing varied from fifteen to twenty fathoms, chiefly over rocky ground. It rained almost all the day, and we had several sudden shifts of wind, from South-East to North-West. Our first view of the western sh.o.r.e of the Sound was singular; Point Cunningham, and Carlisle Head, appeared like two high square-looking islands. We anch.o.r.ed soon after high-water, which appeared to be about a quarter of an hour earlier than at Port Usborne. We remained at this anchorage till the 3rd of April, during which time several unsuccessful hauls were made with the seine, but some additions were made to the collection of Natural History, particularly in the ornithological branch. It is not a little remarkable, that fish should be so scarce on this part of the coast, a fact also noticed by Captain King.

INTERVIEW WITH NATIVES.

April 1.

This morning five natives made their appearance on the beach. Captain Wickham and myself went on sh.o.r.e, in order if possible to induce them to visit the ship: on landing he recognised them for old acquaintances, and I gave the eldest of the party, a handkerchief upon which he seemed to have set his affections; however when he understood our wish for the company of himself and friends on board, he was with difficulty induced to retain it. None but those who have made the experiment, are aware of what has to be overcome before any sort of intercourse can be carried on by signs; or how often, among the most intelligent, the greatest mistakes must of necessity occur. I have since thought, remembering what pa.s.sed during this interview, that while we were making signs to them that on board they would find something to eat, each man's fears suggested the probability of a certain convocation, not where he eats, but where he is eaten, and induced him to decline standing treat upon the occasion.

The singular manner these men had also of holding the face turned upwards, in order to escape the plague of flies, fully confirmed the truth of old Dampier's account of the manners of these people when he first discovered this part of the world. The eldest was the spokesman, or rather the signsman of the party, and this is always the custom, so far as we have had an opportunity of judging. The word they make use of in bowing (which they did quite in an Eastern style) appeared to be irru irru: their b.r.e.a.s.t.s were scarred with deep horizontal cuts, such as we had previously noticed on the natives in Roebuck Bay. I was so much struck with the resemblance between these people and the natives of Tierra del Fuego, that I have been tempted to believe that the stream of population flowed thitherward from the continent of America.

I ought to mention that when Captain Wickham and myself left the ship, in the hope of inducing the natives to return with us, Miago, hearing of the expected visit, immediately went below, and dressed himself to the best possible advantage. No sooner did the boat come alongside, than he appeared at the gangway, inquiring with the utmost possible dignity, "where blackfellas?" and was evidently and deeply mortified that he had no opportunity of astonishing the natives.

There has been a marked change in the weather, since the sun crossed the equator: we have had no repet.i.tions of the easterly squalls, before so prevalent, and the winds have been almost regular in the following order.

From 3 P.M. to 1 A.M. a light breeze from South-South-West which freshening alters to South-East where it remains till 8 A.M., from that hour gradually decreasing, and at the same time changing to North-East and North. The thermometer, for some days past has ranged from 72 to 89 degrees; a temperature which we thought a few months ago intolerable, was now quite agreeable.

We looked forward with the utmost anxiety to the result of our arrival at Port George the Fourth, as there, or at least in that neighbourhood, we hoped to hear some tidings of our friends Grey and Lushington, who, when we separated from them at the Cape, intended to land in Hanover Bay, establish a depot for stores, and from thence penetrate if possible into the interior.

THEIR PEACEABLE DISPOSITION.

I had no fear on the subject of any hostility from the natives, for in our own experience, we had as yet always found them inoffensive and peaceable; while should they prove otherwise, I was satisfied that a very slight acquaintance with the effects of gunpowder would be quite sufficient to quell their warlike propensities, but I did fear that they had chosen a very unfavourable point for debarkation, and that many causes would combine to arrest their progress into the interior. How unhappily my antic.i.p.ations were verified, will be seen hereafter.

Early on the morning of the 3rd, we left our anchorage under Point Cunningham, and by two o'clock P.M., had worked through Sunday Strait, where we encountered its usual heavy tide-races. At four o'clock in the afternoon, Caffarelli Island bore East-South-East, 9 miles distant: and about six, the wind, which through the day had been light and variable quite deserted us, when to avoid drifting back into the strait we anch.o.r.ed in 29 fathoms; Caffarelli Island bearing South-South-East 5 miles. The tide here appeared to be one hour earlier than in Sunday Strait: the flood set in a south-easterly, and the ebb in an opposite direction, at the rate of from half to one mile per hour.

The 24th saw us again underweigh, by the light of the stars, but the wind being variable and against us, we did not get beyond Adele Island, where we anch.o.r.ed in 14 fathoms: the nearest part of it bearing North 75 degrees East 3 miles.

ADELE ISLAND.

Brue Reef was seen in the course of the day, and appeared to be correctly laid down by Captain King: there appeared, however, some discrepancy in the position of Adele Island, the southern extremity of which we found to be in lat.i.tude 15 degrees 32 minutes 30 seconds South, which is one mile and a half to the southward of the place a.s.signed to it in his chart. The sea was breaking heavily on the reef, which fronts the island for a distance of two miles. The island itself is low, desolate and barren. We noticed there was scarcely any set of tide at this anchorage. During the day's progress we found several coral ledges, in from 11 to 13 fathoms, and trending North-East by East, and with from 25 to 35 fathoms between them. The specimens of this beautiful submarine production brought up by the lead, were of the most delicate kind, nor on any occasion did the lead present any appearance to indicate that it had fallen among a coa.r.s.er sort. One beautiful fragment was obtained in Sunday Strait in 30 fathoms, a depth at which living coral is rarely found.

BEAGLE BANK.

April 5.

Daylight on the 5th found us standing to the eastward--East-North-East--with a light northerly wind, in soundings ranging from 14 to 40 fathoms, and over a bottom of white and brown sand in the deep, and coral rock in the shoal water. In the afternoon we had the good fortune to discover one of the reefs, which render the navigation of this part of the coast rather hazardous. The position of this danger, is however well marked by a bank of very white sand and dead coral, from which the reef extends two miles and a half, in a North-North-West and one mile in a South-South-East direction; and which rising some 15 feet above the mean level of the blue surrounding water, became a conspicuous object from our deck, even at the distance of six miles. We gave our discovery the name of Beagle Bank, as another memorial of the useful services in which our little vessel had been so frequently engaged, and our observations enabled us to fix the centre of it in lat.i.tude 15 degrees 20 minutes South, longitude 123 degrees 36 minutes East.

SHOAL SOUNDINGS.

We anch.o.r.ed in the evening in 16 fathoms, the bank distant 3 1/2 miles in a South by East direction: half a mile nearer to it, we found only 4 fathoms. The tide rose at this anchorage 12 feet. The flood stream began by setting to the South-South-West, and ended at South-east by East. The ebb set West by North, and the utmost strength of stream never exceeded one mile per hour.

It was high-water at 10 o'clock P.M., and the stream changed at the same time. The tide was therefore two hours later here than in the entrance to King's Sound, from which it would appear that the tidal wave approaches this coast from the West-South-West.

April 6.

We made slight progress towards Port George the Fourth, during the forenoon; the water deepening to 20 and 30 fathoms, soon after we had weighed. We espied a ridge extending to the South-east from Beagle Bank, which supplies another fact in support of the opinion I have before advanced, and which gives a north-westerly trend to these ledges. The wind failing, and the ebb-tide drifting us again to the westward, in sight of Beagle Bank, the anchor was dropped 4 1/2 miles East by North of it, and in a depth of 12 fathoms, to which we had suddenly shoaled from 29, this position marked the limit of shoal soundings in an East by North direction from Beagle Bank. Between sunset and midnight we were able to make 17 miles, in an East by North direction, when a contrary tide, and an accompanying calm, compelled us to anchor in 31 fathoms: the soundings during the run had varied from 35 to 39 fathoms: the bottom, latterly a soft mud, of a dirty grey colour. A twilight star placed our position 17 miles west of Red Island, which corresponded with the bearings at daylight.

April 7.

The wind being still very light, we were compelled to wait for the flood-tide, which did not favour us till a quarter past six in the morning. The last direction of the ebb stream was north. It was nearly dark before we reached our anchorage, in 18 fathoms, one mile from Point Adieu: on our way material was secured for laying down the sea-face of the Champagny Islands. Red Island brought to our recollection Captain Heywood, by whom this part of the Australian continent had been seen, and of whose earlier career a notice will be found in Sir John Barrow's interesting narrative of the Mutiny of the Bounty.

TRAFALGAR AND WATERLOO.

The soundings during the entire day, ranged from 27 to 30 fathoms, and the character of the bottom was similar to that last described. Our observations for lat.i.tude did not verify our position by the chart, though all its bearings and distances appeared relatively correct. The discrepancy may perhaps be ascribed to the effect of refraction, as we were prevented by the land from observing on both horizons. The most remarkable objects in this neighbourhood, were two hills, named by Captain King, Mount Trafalgar, and Mount Waterloo, to record in one hemisphere, two memorable events, not likely to be easily forgotten in the other: although a.s.suredly the time will come when the peaceful triumphs of science and civilization, of which these names are here enduring witnesses, will be far more highly valued, and far more truly honoured! Mount Trafalgar made its first appearance in the form of a huge quoin or wedge, resting longitudinally upon the horizon, with its point towards the south-east.

Among other memoranda for the improvement of the chart of this coast, it should be noted that the reef extending to the North-West from Jackson's peaked Island, appears to join the small islands lying near it in that direction, and to which, from their colour, we gave the name of The Brown Islands.

THE BROWN ISLANDS.

As there was every probability of the ship being detained in this neighbourhood for some days, searching for traces of Lieutenants Grey and Lushington's party, and as the examination of Collier Bay, where we still hoped to find an opening leading into the interior, would prevent the necessity of our return to this part of the coast, I applied to Captain Wickham, for permission to proceed with the two whaleboats on that service. A wound on the foot had in some degree unfitted me for any very active duty, but I felt satisfied that the opportunity--perhaps the last I might have--ought not to be undervalued or neglected.

BRECKNOCK HARBOUR.

April 8.

By daylight on the 8th, the boats had left the ship, and were standing to the southward among the islands. Our party consisted of Mr. Helpman, Mr.

Fitzmaurice and myself. Pa.s.sing through the eastern part of Port George the Fourth, we entered Roger Strait, which led into a large sheet of water, forming a beautiful harbour; we landed to obtain a better view of it, on a small island at the southern entrance of this strait. This islet looked truly inviting, being clothed with long rich gra.s.s, which to our cost we found concealed boulders of granite; this was the first time we met with this primitive rock, and from the colour of the surrounding heights it was evident we were in an old red sandstone region. Strange to say the attraction on this island rendered our compa.s.ses quite useless; we noticed on its North-West side a portion of the wreck of a small vessel. There was a small mangrove inlet in the South-East corner of this harbour, over which the land was low, forming a gap in the neighbouring heights. We now pushed on for an island lying in the entrance of the harbour, bearing West by North 6 miles; our soundings in pa.s.sing over this part (of what we afterwards called Brecknock Harbour, as Captain King had named the entrance of it Camden Sound, from a distant view he had of it) gave a depth of 7 fathoms, over an even muddy bottom; but towards and in the entrance it increased to 13 fathoms.

ENTRANCE ISLE.

The island we now landed on, we called from its situation, Entrance Island. From a high part overlooking its steep southern side we had a very commanding view. The centre of a string of small islets bore north one mile; there extended 2 miles in a west direction, from the north point of the harbour; both these and Entrance Isle escaped Captain King's notice, owing to the distant view he had of this part of the coast. A point bearing South-West distant 3 miles, was the extreme of the mainland that we could see in the direction we were going. We found the sandstone of this Island not of the same ancient red colour as that on the sh.o.r.e fronting it. One boat was employed in the meantime sounding the entrance of the harbour, which we found to be 2 miles across, and from 9 to 15 fathoms deep; the mouth of it faces the West-North-West, Entrance Isle lying half a mile outside its points, with a clear channel nearly a mile wide, on either side of it.

About a quarter of a mile off the main, and fronting the south side of this island, there is a singular needle-shaped rock, 20 feet high, marking the outer extreme of a coral ledge, which is covered at high-water. As it now blew a fresh breeze from seaward, and the afternoon was far advanced, we spent the remainder of the day in a further examination of the entrance. We were much pleased with the result of our evening's work, finding the approach to this fine harbour quite free from danger, and capable of admitting vessels of any size; there were no reefs or islets seaward of it to add to the anxiety of the navigator, or lessen the value of our discovery; the importance of which will be greatly enhanced, should Lieutenants Grey and Lushington have the good fortune to discover any land fit for colonization in its neighbourhood. Our labours here closed with observations for a boat rate, for the chronometers and lat.i.tude, the latter being 15 degrees 27 1/4 minutes South on a sandy beach at the eastern side of Entrance Isle.

SLATE ISLANDS.

April 9.

We rounded the extreme point to the South-West seen from Entrance Isle at sunrise; the rocks on this point were arranged quite in the form of a fort, from whence it received the name of Battery Point; another group of islands now came in view, bearing from Battery Point South-West by South about 4 miles; these we named Slate Islands, from their singular formation. They extended one mile North-West from a point of land; between them and Battery Point, the coast fell back forming two bays, crossing the mouths of which we had 13 fathoms. On pa.s.sing Slate Islands, we saw a headland, named by Captain King Point Hall, bearing South by West 1/2 West distant 8 miles. It has a high peaked and isolated appearance, being separated from the contiguous high land by a low neck.

We pa.s.sed a bay 2 miles wide on its north-eastern, and a snug cove on its south-eastern side. It was past noon and we were glad to see the stagnant calm, that had for hours reigned around, dispelled by the seabreeze which now darkened the horizon. Our course, during the afternoon was South by East along a low rocky coast, but as we had to contend with a three-knot tide, we did not get farther than a small sandy cove, bearing South by East 9 miles from Point Hall, by the close of the day, which was the only spot we had seen the whole of the afternoon capable of affording shelter for the boats.

FRESHWATER COVE.

We were agreeably surprised to find a stream of water running into the head of this cove, as the parched appearance of the low hills over it did not lead us to expect such good luck, in remembrance of which we called it Freshwater Cove. Landing, I hastened to the south point of the cove, to secure the necessary data for the chart, before the surrounding objects were veiled in darkness. We again appeared to be in a sterile white sandstone region, where, with the exception of a few land birds, there was a total absence of animal life, and almost that of the vegetable, for even the gumtrees common in this part, were not to be seen. Our view to the southward was very limited, embracing only the Montgomery Islands of Captain King; they consist of six small rocky islets resting on an extensive coral flat, that we afterwards observed to be dry at low-water, and which extended to a large low sandy island, lying six miles west from them; the latter was not seen by Captain King, in his distant view of this neighbourhood. The eastern and largest of the Montgomery Isles stands on the extreme of the coral flat; we found it to be 70 feet high, and bore South-West by South 7 miles from this point of Freshwater Cove. The lat.i.tude we obtained in the course of the night gave a result of 15 degrees 49 minutes south.

April 10.

At daylight we continued pursuing our South by East course, following the same kind of low straight rocky sh.o.r.e, as that of yesterday afternoon. We pa.s.sed inside a reef fronting the sh.o.r.e from a mile south of Freshwater Cove; this pa.s.sage was about half a mile wide and from 7 to 12 fathoms deep. Having the flood-tide in our favour, we proceeded rapidly, and at the end of four miles, found the trend of the coast suddenly changed to East-North-East for two miles, when it again took a southerly direction, forming a chain of high rocky islets. Deferring our examination of the main, lying about a mile in the rear of these islets, we kept on our South by East course, in the direction of some very high land now seen for the first time. Three miles further brought us to a small rocky islet, where we landed for a set of angles.