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258. +Pain d'Ananas a la Parisienne.+-- Chose a large, ripe pineapple and pare and grate it; add 1 cups sugar and stir until dissolved; press the pineapple through a sieve and add the juice of 4 oranges and 2 ounces gelatine dissolved in 1 pint water; place a plain form into cracked ice and pour in a few spoonfuls orange jelly; when this is hard lay the form over on its side, pour in more jelly and keep turning slowly, so that the jelly may get all over the sides and form a lining; next have some pistachio nuts or blanched almonds cut into strips and sprinkle them over the sides and bottom of form; set the pineapple mixture on ice and stir until it begins to thicken; then fill into the form, cover and let it remain for 2 or 3 hours in ice; it is then ready to serve; chop the tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs of the pineapple fine, pour over some cold sugar syrup and let it stand 2 hours; strain, add a little dissolved gelatine and pour over the pain when sent to table.

259. +Pain de Peches.+-- Take 20 large, ripe peaches and pare and quarter them; then press them through a sieve; add to this 1 pound sugar dissolved in 1 pint cold water and 2 ounces dissolved gelatine; crack the stones, remove the pits, scald in boiling water and free them from their brown skin; cut the pits in half and boil them in a little sugar syrup; add to the peach mixture cup white wine and fill it into a tin form with a tube in the center; place the form on ice and let it remain till its contents begin to thicken; then stir in the peach pits and let it remain on ice 2 hours longer. Pains of apricots, cherries or plums are made the same way.

260. +Pain a la Victoria.+-- Press 1 pint ripe raspberries through a sieve and mix it with 1 ounce gelatine dissolved in pint water; put cup sugar into pint cold water and stir until dissolved; then add it to the raspberries with a gla.s.s of white wine; place this on ice till it begins to thicken; prepare 1 quart almond blanc-mange (see Blanc-Mange); set a plain form into cracked ice and put in a layer of raspberries about an inch in thickness; let this get hard; then put in a layer of blanc-mange; after this is firm again put in raspberries, then blanc-mange; continue till all is used; let it remain on ice for 2 hours; when ready to serve turn the pain onto a round dish and garnish with fruit.

261. +Pain de Peches a la Richelieu.+-- Prepare a pain the same as Pain de Peches and also 1 pint almond blanc-mange; set a plain form with a tube in the center into cracked ice and put in by degrees the blanc-mange; put it inch in thickness all around on the sides and bottom of form, so that it forms a complete lining inside; then fill in the pain of peaches and let it remain on ice for 2 hours: in serving dip the form into hot water, wipe dry and turn its contents into a gla.s.s dish.

262. +Pain de Peches a la Conde.+-- Pare and cut into halves 1 dozen large, ripe peaches and boil them with their blanched pits in sugar syrup for about 10 minutes; transfer the peaches to a dish or long tin pan, wipe dry and lay them with the hollow side up; put half a pit in the center of each and pour a spoonful of jelly over each piece (the jelly should be previously stirred on ice till it begins to thicken); next set a plain form into cracked ice, pour in some plain fruit or wine jelly and keep turning the form until the inside is lined with the jelly; cover the bottom with peaches; lay them so that the pits are to the outside; then lay the remaining peaches in rows on the side of form, pour over some jelly and when firm fill up the form with bavarois aux apricots, which is prepared as follows:--Pare and cut into pieces 1 dozen ripe apricots, lay in a dish, sprinkle over 1 cup sugar and let them stand for 2 hours; then press them through a sieve; mix the puree with 1 teaspoonful extract of vanilla and 1 ounces dissolved gelatine; put this on ice and stir till it begins to thicken; then carefully stir 1 pint whipped cream through it; fill the bavarois into form at once and let it remain on ice for 2 or 3 hours.

263. +Pain de Pommes a la Conde.+-- Choose 15 large pippin or greening apples and pare, quarter and stew them with a little water; press them through a sieve, add 1 cup sugar and when cold mix it with 2 ounces gelatine dissolved in 1 pint water and 1 pint almond milk (prepared the same as for Blanc-Mange); place this on ice and stir till it begins to thicken; fill it into a form which has already been set into cracked ice and let it remain for 2 or 3 hours; boil the cores and peels of apples till soft; strain through a bag, return the liquor to saucepan and boil 10 minutes; then add to pint of juice 1 cup sugar and boil for a few minutes; pour the syrup into a dish and set aside to cool; in serving dip the form into hot water, wipe it dry and turn the pain onto a round dish, or into a large gla.s.s dish, and pour the apple syrup over it. This pain may be made of Bartlet pears in the same manner.

ICE CREAMS.

264. +Directions for Making Ice Cream.+-- The implements needed are a freezer, rock salt and finely cracked ice. Ice cream freezers can be bought at any hardware store. They consist of a large wooden pail with a faucet on the side near the bottom and a freezer with a paddle inside. The cracking of the ice is best accomplished by putting it into a coa.r.s.e sack and pounding it fine with a hammer or mallet. Place the freezer into the pail, put in the paddle and cover the freezer tightly. Fill the s.p.a.ce between the pail and freezer with fine cracked ice to ? its height, sprinkle over 2 handfuls salt and pack down the ice with a piece of wood, so that it may be firm all around the freezer; continue with layers of ice, salt and the packing down till the ice reaches to the edge of cover; next pour into the freezer the mixture that is to be frozen; but care should be taken not to put in too much, for the cream needs plenty of room in order to become light and smooth; cover the freezer and let it stand for 5 minutes; then commence to turn; after 10 minutes'

turning remove the cover from freezer and cut the frozen cream with a long bladed knife from the sides of can; repeat this every 10 minutes until the cream is frozen hard; then remove the paddle, even off the cream in the freezer, cover and let it stand for 10 minutes; do not draw off the water from pail until it stands above the ice and the freezer has lost its firm hold; after drawing off the water fill the s.p.a.ce up again with cracked ice and salt; when the 10 minutes have elapsed fill the frozen cream into an ice form, cover tightly and paste a strip of b.u.t.tered paper around the edge of cover; then pack the form into cracked ice and salt for 1 or 2 hours; when ready to serve take the form from the ice, rinse it off with cold water, remove the paper and wipe the form dry; then dip it quickly into hot water, take off the cover, turn the cream onto a dish and serve at once.

265. +Ice Cream (large quant.i.ty).+-- 14 quarts sweet cream, 6 quarts milk, 7 pounds sugar, 30 eggs and pound gelatine; soak gelatine for 10 minutes in a little of the milk; put the remaining milk over the fire and boil; then add the soaked gelatine and stir and boil till it is dissolved; set aside to cool a little; beat eggs and sugar to a cream and add by degrees the milk, stirring constantly; return to fire and let it get boiling hot; but do not allow it to boil, otherwise it will curdle; remove from fire, pa.s.s it through a sieve and set aside to cool, stirring it occasionally; beat the cream until quite thick, gradually add the cold custard and continue beating for a little while longer; then put it in a freezer and freeze as directed.

266. +Fine Vanilla Ice Cream.+-- Beat the yolks of 8 eggs to a cream and add gradually 1 quart sweet cream which has previously been boiled and cooled; add pound sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls vanilla extract and stir the whole over the fire until nearly boiling; then remove from fire and when cold strain it through a sieve and freeze as directed.

267. +Custard Ice Cream.+-- Put 5 eggs in a saucepan and beat them to a froth; add 1 cup sugar, 1 quart milk and set the saucepan in a vessel of boiling water over the fire; stir constantly until the custard nearly boils; then remove it from the fire and set the saucepan in cold water; when cold strain it through a sieve, add 2 teaspoonfuls vanilla or lemon extract, put the custard in the freezer and freeze as directed.

268. +Plain Ice Cream.+-- Put 2 teaspoonfuls cornstarch, 6 eggs, 2 cups sugar and 2 quarts milk in a saucepan over the fire and stir till just about to boil; remove from the fire, flavor with lemon or vanilla and finish as directed.

269. +Plain Ice Cream (another way).+-- Put 1 quart milk and 1 quart rich, sweet cream with the yolks of 8 eggs and 2 cups sugar over the fire and stir till just about to boil; remove from fire, beat the whites of the 8 eggs to a stiff froth and add them to the custard; add 3 teaspoonfuls vanilla and finish as directed.

270. +Pistachio Ice Cream.+-- pound blanched pistachio nuts, pound blanched almonds, 1 quart rich, sweet cream, 1 cups sugar, the yolks of 8 eggs and 1 teaspoonful vanilla extract; pound the nuts with a little water very fine; place a saucepan over the fire with the cream, the yolks of the 8 eggs, sugar and vanilla and stir until nearly boiling; remove from the fire, stir in the nuts and when cold press the whole through a sieve; finish as directed.

Almond ice cream is made the same way.

271. +Maraschino Ice Cream.+-- Place a saucepan with 1 quart cream, pound sugar and the yolks of 6 eggs over the fire and stir till it nearly boils; remove from fire, strain through a sieve and when cold add 1 gills maraschino; finish as directed. Rum ice cream is made in the same manner.

272. +Caramel Ice Cream.+-- 1 cups sugar, the yolks of 7 eggs, 1 quart sweet cream and 1 tablespoonful orange blossom water; boil cup sugar with cup water until it turns to a light brown color, add cup boiling water and stir till the sugar is dissolved; put it in a saucepan with the cream, 1 cup sugar, yolks and orange water and stir the whole over the fire until nearly boiling; when cold strain it through a sieve and finish as directed.

273. +Tea Ice Cream.+-- 1 ounce of the very best tea, 1 quart cream, the yolks of 6 eggs and pound sugar; boil the cream, put in the tea, cover and let it stand 5 minutes; strain through a sieve and when nearly cold mix the cream, yolks and sugar together and stir over the fire until nearly boiling; remove from fire and when cold finish as directed.

274. +Coffee Ice Cream, No. 1.+-- 1 quart cream, 1 pint milk, 2 cups sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs and 2 ounces freshly ground coffee; boil the milk, put in the coffee, cover and set it aside to cool; next put the cream, yolks and sugar in a saucepan and stir over the fire till it nearly boils; remove from fire, add the coffee and when cold strain through a fine sieve, finishing as directed.

275. +Coffee Ice Cream, No. 2.+-- pound sugar, 1 quart sweet cream, the yolks of 6-8 eggs and 5 ounces unroasted Mocha coffee; roast the coffee in a pan over the fire and put it into half of the boiling cream; cover and let it stand till cold; put the remaining cream, yolks and sugar in a saucepan over the fire and stir till nearly boiling; remove from the fire, add the coffee cream with the beans and let it stand till cold; then strain through a sieve and freeze as directed. 2 ounces freshly ground coffee may be used instead of the beans.

276. +Ice Cream (Simple).+-- 1 quart sweet cream, 1 cup sugar and 2 teaspoonfuls vanilla or lemon extract; mix this well together, pour into a freezer and finish as directed. Or take equal parts of cream and milk; to 1 quart of this add 1 cups sugar and any flavoring that may be desired; pour into the freezer and finish as directed.

277. +Plain Chocolate Ice Cream.+-- 2 pints cream, 1 pint milk, 2 cups sugar, pound Baker's grated chocolate and 2 teaspoonfuls vanilla extract; place a saucepan with the milk, chocolate and cream over the fire, add the sugar, stir and boil for a few minutes; remove from fire and when cold freeze as directed.

278. +Nut Ice Cream.+-- pound blanched walnuts, the yolks of 6 eggs, 1 cups sugar, 1 quart cream and 1 teaspoonful vanilla; pound the walnuts fine; put the cream, yolks, sugar and vanilla in a saucepan and stir over the fire till nearly boiling; remove from the fire, add the nuts and when cold strain it through a sieve; freeze as directed.

279. +Fine Chocolate Ice Cream.+-- pound grated chocolate, pound sugar, 1 quart sweet cream, the yolks of 8 eggs and 1 teaspoonful vanilla extract; place a saucepan with pint cream and the chocolate over the fire and stir and boil till chocolate is dissolved; stir the yolks, sugar, the remaining cream and vanilla together, add it slowly to the chocolate and continue stirring until nearly boiling; remove from fire and finish as directed.

280. +Strawberry Ice Cream.+-- 1 pint ripe strawberries, 1 pint rich, sweet cream, 1 pound sugar and 1 teaspoonful vanilla extract; wash and drain the berries, mash them fine and mix with the sugar; cover and let stand till sugar is melted; press them through a sieve, mix the strawberry pulp with the cream and vanilla and put the whole into a freezer and freeze as directed. Raspberry, peach and apricot ice creams are made the same way.

281. +How to Make Ice Cream Without a Freezer.+-- The process is so easy of manipulation and the expense incident thereto so small that most anybody can prepare it without any great trouble. All that is necessary for its preparation is a b.u.t.ter tub or a large pail, some ice, rock salt, a tin form with tube in the center and a cover that fits it closely. The ice is best broken to pieces by putting it into a coa.r.s.e bag and pounding with a hatchet. By this process no ice is wasted and there is no muss.

282. +Vanilla Ice Cream, No. 1.+-- Set a plain tin form with tube in the center into cracked ice and salt; place a saucepan with 1 quart milk, the yolks of 6 eggs, 1 cup sugar and 1 tablespoonful cornstarch over the fire and stir with an egg beater till nearly boiling; remove from the fire, set saucepan in cold water and continue stirring till cold; then add the whites of the 6 eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and 2 teaspoonfuls vanilla extract; pour this into the form, put on the cover and paste a strip of b.u.t.tered paper around its edge, to prevent the salt water from entering; put a thick layer of cracked ice in the bottom of a b.u.t.ter tub and sprinkle over it a handful of rock salt; set the form onto the ice and fill the s.p.a.ce between it and tub with cracked ice and salt; lay a thick layer of ice on top of form and sprinkle with salt; cover the tub with a carpet or bag and let it stand in a cool place for 4 hours; when ready to serve take the form out of the ice, remove the paper, dip the form into hot water, quickly wipe dry, turn the cream onto a dish and serve.

283. +Vanilla Ice Cream. No. 2.+-- Place a deep kettle into cracked ice and put into it 1 quart rich, sweet cream; beat this with an egg beater until thick and add 1 cup powdered sugar and 2 teaspoonfuls vanilla extract; put the cream into a tin form with a tube in the center, cover tightly, paste a strip of b.u.t.tered paper around the edge of cover and finish the same as in foregoing recipe. NOTE.--For chocolate cream dissolve pound grated chocolate in cup water, let it boil for a few minutes and when cold stir into the whipped cream prepared as above. Preserved peaches cut into small pieces or preserved pineapples cut into dice and mixed with the whipped cream is very nice. 1 dozen macaroons pounded fine and mixed with the whipped cream is also excellent. Pumpernickel cut in slices, dried in an oven and rolled fine may also be used. Candied fruit cut into pieces and fresh or preserved strawberries, as also cherries, apricots and oranges, can be used in the same way. For a small family 1 pint of cream will be sufficient.

284. +Fruit Ice Cream.+-- Stir 1 quart cream with the yolks of 6 eggs and 1 cups sugar over the fire till it nearly boils; remove from fire and when cold put the cream into the freezer and work till half frozen; then add any kind of fruit--either fresh strawberries or preserved pineapple cut into dice, ripe peaches cut into quarters, preserved pitted cherries or apricots; then finish as directed. The fruit may also be stirred into Custard Ice Cream in the same manner.

285. +Fruit Ice.+-- The princ.i.p.al point in making fruit ice is to use the exact quant.i.ty of sugar. If the mixture contains too much sugar it will not freeze; if too little sugar the ice will be hard and dry. The better way is to try a little of it before putting the whole mixture into a freezer. If hard and dry add some thick sugar syrup; if it does not freeze at all add some cold water or a very thin syrup of sugar.

286. +Cold Sugar Syrup for Fruit Ice.+-- Dissolve 1 pound sugar in 1 pint cold water and use as directed in following recipe. This is the ordinary syrup of 32 degrees used for fruit ice. If a thicker syrup is wanted dissolve 1 pound sugar in pint water.

287. +Strawberry Ice.+-- Wash and drain 1 quart ripe strawberries and press them through a sieve; mix the pulp with 1 pint sugar syrup, as in No. 286, and the juice of 2 lemons; press it through a fine hair sieve, put it into a freezer and freeze as directed.

288. +Pineapple Ice.+-- Choose a large, ripe pineapple, pare and grate it, or cut into pieces, and chop fine; put the pulp into a porcelain dish and pour over it pint sugar syrup; cover and let it stand 1 hour; then add another pint sugar syrup and the juice of 1 lemon; press it through a sieve and put in a freezer to freeze.

289. +Tutti Frutti Ice.+-- Pound pound blanched sweet almonds and 12 bitter ones with a little cold water very fine; pour over 1 pint water and let them stand for hour; then press them through a hair sieve; mix this almond milk with 2 pints sugar syrup and 1 teaspoonful vanilla; put this into a freezer and freeze; when frozen take the paddle of the freezer out and put in different kinds of fruit cut into small dice--either fresh or preserved peaches, pineapples, plums, cherries or apricots.

290. +Peach Ice.+-- Pare and cut 12 large, ripe peaches into pieces, press them through a sieve, mix with a little over 1 pint sugar syrup and freeze. Ices from egg plums and apricots are made in the same way.

291. +Melon Ice.+-- Choose a nice, ripe musk melon, cut it in half, remove the seeds and green portion and press the soft part through a sieve; mix it with an equal quant.i.ty of sugar syrup, a little vanilla extract, the juice of 1 lemon, a little orange blossom water and freeze as directed.

292. +Orange Ice.+-- Mix 1 quart sugar syrup with the juice of 10 oranges, put in the thin peel of 2 oranges and let it stand for 6 minutes; remove the peel, pour the syrup through a sieve and freeze as directed.

293. +Lemon Ice.+-- Mix the juice of 5 lemons with 1 quart sugar syrup and freeze.

294. +Sorbet+ is served in Europe at b.a.l.l.s and suppers.

295. +Champagne Sorbet.+-- Dissolve 1 pound sugar in 1 pints cold water, add the juice of 2 lemons and 6 oranges and a little of the peel of each and let it stand 10 minutes; remove the peel, add bottle champagne, put it into a freezer and work for hour; 10 minutes before serving add bottle champagne, work it for a few minutes longer and then serve in gla.s.ses. Sorbet should not freeze hard; it should be a creamy liquid and ice cold.

296. +Pineapple Sorbet.+-- 1 quart pineapple syrup, the juice of 3 oranges and 1 lemon; mix all together, strain and put into a freezer, work it for hour and add by degrees during the freezing process bottle champagne; finish the same as Champagne Sorbet.

Sorbets of oranges, strawberries, peaches, cherries and apricot syrup are made in a similar manner.

297. +Strawberry Sherbet.+-- Press 1 quart ripe strawberries through a sieve, add pound sugar dissolved in 3 pints cold water, add the juice of 1 lemon and 2 teaspoonfuls orange flower water, cover and let stand for 2 hours; then strain through a fine sieve and set on ice for 1 or 2 hours; serve ice cold in small gla.s.ses.

298. +Orange Granite.+-- Mix 1 pint orange juice with 3 pints sugar syrup, as in No. 286, the juice of 2 lemons and the peel of 1; let it stand a few minutes then strain through a sieve; pour the mixture into a freezer, cover and turn for 5 minutes; then take off the cover, cut the frozen part loose from the sides of freezer, turn for a few minutes longer and serve. Granite must not be frozen hard; it should have little lumps all through it. Granites of strawberries, pineapples, raspberries, currants, peaches, apricots or cherries are made in a similar way. In granite of currants omit the lemon juice.

299. +Spongada aux peches.+-- Pare and cut into pieces some ripe peaches, press them through a sieve and take for 1 pint peach pulp 1 pint sugar syrup, as in No. 286, 2 teaspoonfuls vanilla extract, 1 gills white of egg not beaten and 10 bitter almonds pounded to a paste with a little water; mix all well together and strain twice through a sieve; pour this into a freezer, cover and turn for 5 minutes; take off the cover, cut the frozen part loose from the sides of freezer, cover and turn again; repeat the operation of cutting from the sides every 5 minutes; as soon as the mixture begins to thicken remove the paddle of freezer, work the mixture up and down with a large spoon and press it towards the sides and bottom of freezer; as soon as the contents of freezer have increased to double their size add 2 tablespoonfuls maraschino and serve in gla.s.ses.

300. +Spongada au chocolat.+-- 1 pint sweet cream, pound finely grated chocolate, pound sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls vanilla extract, 1 gills white of egg and 1 large cup water; boil the chocolate in the water for 5 minutes; when cold mix all the ingredients together and finish the same as in preceding recipe.

301. +Spongada au Cafe.+-- 1 pint cold sweet cream, pint very strong coffee, pint whites of eggs (not whipped) and 1 pound powdered sugar; mix all together and finish the same as Spongada aux Peches.

302. +Spongada au marasquin.+-- 1 gills white of eggs, 2 pints rich, sweet cream, 1 cups sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls vanilla extract and 1 gills maraschino; dissolve the sugar in the cream, add vanilla and the white of egg without having been beaten and finish the same as Spongada aux Peches. The maraschino is to be added shortly before serving.