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THE RECTANGULAR PLAN.--In the rectangular floor plan (Fig. 222) a portion of the floor s.p.a.ce is cut out for a porch (A), so that we may use the end or the side for the entrance. Supposing we use the end of the house for this purpose. The entrance room (B) may be a bedroom, or a reception and living room, and to the rear of this room is the dining room, connected with the reception room by a hall (C). This hall also leads to the kitchen and to the bathroom, as well as to the other bedroom. The parlor is connected with the entrance room (B), and also with the bedroom. All of this is optional, of course.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 222._]

There are also two chimneys, one chimney (D) having two flues and the other chimney (E) having three flues, so that every room is accommodated.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 223._]

ROOM MEASUREMENTS.--We must now determine the dimensions of each room, and then how we shall build the roof.

In Figs. 223 and 224, we have now drawn out in detail the sizes, the locations of the door and windows, the chimneys and the closets, as well as the bathroom. All this work may be changed or modified to suit conditions and the taste of the designer.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 224._]

FRONT AND SIDE LINES.--From the floor diagram, and the door and window s.p.a.ces, as marked out, we may now proceed to lay out rough front and side outlines of the building. The ceilings are to be 9 feet, and if we put a rather low-pitched roof on the square structure (Fig. 223) the front may look something like Fig. 225, and a greater pitch given to the rectangular plan (Fig. 224) will present a view as shown in Fig. 226.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 225._]

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 226._]

THE ROOF.--The pitch of the roof (Fig. 225) is what is called "third pitch," and the roof (Fig. 226) has a half pitch. A "third" pitch is determined as follows:

ROOF PITCH.--In Fig. 227 draw a vertical line (A) and join it by a horizontal line (B). Then strike a circle (C) and step it off into three parts. The line (D), which intersects the first mark (E) and the angle of the lines (A, B), is the pitch.

In Fig. 228 the line A is struck at 15 degrees, which is halfway between lines B and C, and it is, therefore, termed "half-pitch."

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 227._]

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 228._]

Thus, we have made the ground plans, the elevations and the roofs as simple as possible. Let us proceed next with the details of the building.

THE FOUNDATION.--This may be of brick, stone or concrete, and its dimensions should be at least 1-1/2 inches further out than the sill.

THE SILLS.--We are going to build what is called a "balloon frame"; and, first, we put down the sills, which will be a course of 2" 6", or 2"

8" joists, as in Fig. 229.

THE FLOORING JOIST.--The flooring joists (A) are then put down (Fig.

230). These should extend clear across the house from side to side, if possible, or, if the plan is too wide, they should be lapped at the middle wall and spiked together. The ends should extend out flush with the outer margins of the sills, as shown, but in putting down the first and last sill, s.p.a.ce must be left along the sides of the joist of sufficient width to place the studding.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 229._]

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 230._]

THE STUDDING.--The next step is to put the studding into position. 4"

4" must be used for corners and at the sides of door and window openings. 4" 6" may be used at corners, if preferred. Consult your plan and see where the openings are for doors and windows. Measure the widths of the door and window frames, and make a measuring stick for this purpose. You must leave at least one-half inch clearance for the window or door frame, so as to give sufficient room to plumb and set the frame.

SETTING UP.--First set up the corner posts, plumbing and bracing them.

Cut a top plate for each side you are working on.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 231._]

THE PLATE.--As it will be necessary in our job to use two or more lengths of 2" 4" scantling for the plate, it will be necessary to join them together. Do this with a lap-and-b.u.t.t joint (Fig. 231).

Then set up the 4" 4" posts for the sides of the doors and windows, and for the part.i.tion walls.

The plate should be laid down on the sill, and marked with a pencil for every scantling to correspond with the sill markings. The plate is then put on and spiked to the 4" 4" posts.

INTERMEDIATE STUDDING.--It will then be an easy matter to put in the intermediate 2" 4" studding, placing them as nearly as possible 16 inches apart to accommodate the 48-inch plastering lath.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 232._]

WALL HEADERS.--When all the studding are in you will need headers above and rails below the windows and headers above all the doors, so that you will have timbers to nail the siding to, as well as for the lathing.

CEILING JOISTS.--We are now ready for the ceiling joists, which are, usually, 2" 6", unless there is an upper floor. These are laid 16 inches apart from center to center, preferably parallel with the floor joist.

It should be borne in mind that the ceiling joist must always be put on with reference to the roof.

Thus, in Fig. 232, the ceiling joists (A) have their ends resting on the plate (B), so that the rafters are in line with the joists.

BRACES.--It would also be well, in putting up the studding, to use plenty of braces, although for a one-story building this is not so essential as in two-story structures, because the weather boarding serves as a system of bracing.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 233._]

THE RAFTERS.--These may be made to provide for the gutter or not, as may be desired. They should be of 2" 4" scantling.

THE GUTTER.--In Fig. 233 I show a most serviceable way to provide for the gutter. A V-shaped notch is cut out of the upper side of the rafter, in which is placed the floor and a side. This floor piece is raised at one end to provide an incline for the water.

A face-board is then applied and nailed to the ends of the rafters. This face-board is surmounted by a cap, which has an overhang, beneath which is a molding of any convenient pattern. The face-board projects down at least two inches below the angled cut of the rafter, so that when the base-board is applied, the lower margin of the face-board will project one inch below the base.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 234._]

This base-board is horizontal, as you will see. The facia-board may be of any desired width, and a corner molding should be added. It is optional to use the brackets, but if added they should be s.p.a.ced apart a distance not greater than twice the height of the bracket.

A much simpler form of gutter is shown in Fig. 234, in which a V-shaped notch is also cut in the rafter, and the channel is made by the pieces.

The end of the rafter is cut at right angles, so the face-board is at an angle. This is also surmounted by an overhanging cap and a molding. The base is nailed to the lower edges of the rafters, and the facia is then applied.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 234a._]

In Fig. 234_a_ the roof has no gutter, so that the end of the rafter is cut off at an angle and a molding applied on the face-board. The base is nailed to the rafters. This is the cheapest and simplest form of structure for the roof.

SETTING DOOR AND WINDOW FRAMES.--The next step in order is to set the door and window frames preparatory to applying the weather boarding. It is then ready for the roof, which should be put on before the floor is laid.

PLASTERING AND INSIDE FINISH.--Next in order is the plastering, then the base-boards and the casing; and, finally, the door and windows should be fitted into position.

Enough has been said here merely to give a general outline, with some details, how to proceed with the work.