MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS Basic Polenta, page 86 Basic Polenta, page 86 3 to 4 cups Bolognese Meat Sauce, page 206 3 to 4 cups Bolognese Meat Sauce, page 206 5 to 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 5 to 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Prepare Basic Polenta and let cool completely. Prepare Bolognese Meat Sauce.

Preheat oven to 400F (205C). b.u.t.ter a 13 9-inch baking dish. Cut cooled polenta into slices 2 inches wide and 6 inches long. Put a third of the sliced polenta in b.u.t.tered baking dish. Spoon about 1 cup meat sauce over polenta. Dot with about 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter and sprinkle with 4 to 5 tablespoons Parmesan cheese. Repeat with two more layers of polenta, meat sauce, b.u.t.ter and Parmesan cheese, making three layers.

Bake 15 to 20 minutes or until cheese is melted. Serve immediately.

POLENTA WITH SKEWERED MEAT.

Polenta con gli Spiedini In some Italian towns very small birds are used as a delicacy instead of meat in this recipe.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS pound lean veal shoulder pound lean veal shoulder pound pork loin pound pork loin 4 or 5 thick slices ( pound) pancetta, page 4 4 or 5 thick slices ( pound) pancetta, page 4 10 to 12 fresh or dried sage leaves 10 to 12 fresh or dried sage leaves 2 to 3 medium onions, cut into large pieces 2 to 3 medium onions, cut into large pieces Basic Polenta, page 86 Basic Polenta, page 86 cup olive oil cup olive oil Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 cups dry white wine 1 cups dry white wine

Trim all fat from veal and pork. Cut meat into 1- to 2-inch cubes. Cut pancetta into cubes. On 6 wooden skewers, alternate veal, pancetta, sage, pork and onions; set aside.

Prepare Basic Polenta. Pour polenta onto a large wooden board or a large platter. Cool 5 minutes. Cut polenta into slices 2 inches wide and 6 inches long.

While polenta cooks, heat oil in a large skillet. Add skewered meat and salt and pepper. Saute over medium heat 10 minutes, or until meat is lightly browned on all sides. Stir in cup of the wine. Cook uncovered over medium-low heat 15 to 20 minutes, adding more wine as needed.

Place 2 slices polenta and 1 skewer of meat on each of 6 individual dishes. Spoon some wine sauce from skillet over each serving. Serve immediately.

BAKED POLENTA WITH b.u.t.tER AND PARMESAN CHEESE.

Polenta con Burro e Parmigiano al Forno Polenta can be prepared ahead and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before baking.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Basic Polenta, page 86 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Prepare Basic Polenta and let cool completely.

Preheat oven to 375F (190C). b.u.t.ter a large shallow baking dish. Cut cooled polenta into slices 2 inches wide and 6 inches long. Put slices in b.u.t.tered baking dish. Dot generously with b.u.t.ter and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese.

Bake 20 minutes or until cheese is melted. For a golden-brown crust, put briefly under preheated broiler. Serve hot.

Variation Polenta with Fontina Cheese (Polenta con la Fontina): Subst.i.tute pound sliced Italian fontina cheese for the Parmesan cheese.

RISOTTO WITH ZUCCHINI AND JUNIPER BERRIES.

Risotto con Zucchini e Bacche di Ginepro This risotto is lighter than most risottos because it is cooked in a delicious vegetable broth, and uses olive oil instead of b.u.t.ter to saute the onion. For the typical creamy taste of risotto, stir in a pat of sweet b.u.t.ter at the end of cooking.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 6 cups Vegetable Broth, page 24, or low-sodium canned chicken broth 6 cups Vegetable Broth, page 24, or low-sodium canned chicken broth cup extra-virgin olive oil cup extra-virgin olive oil cup finely minced yellow onion cup finely minced yellow onion 1 garlic clove, peeled 1 garlic clove, peeled 6 to 7 juniper berries 6 to 7 juniper berries pound zucchini, smallest you can get, washed and diced into small pieces pound zucchini, smallest you can get, washed and diced into small pieces 1 thick slice (2 ounces) prosciutto, diced 1 thick slice (2 ounces) prosciutto, diced 2 cups imported Arborio, Carnaroli or Vialone Nano rice 2 cups imported Arborio, Carnaroli or Vialone Nano rice 8 to 10 fresh basil leaves, finely shredded 8 to 10 fresh basil leaves, finely shredded 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter cup freshly grated Parmigiano- cup freshly grated Parmigiano- Reggiano cheese Reggiano cheese

Make broth and strain. Heat broth in a medium saucepan and keep warm over low heat.

Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat.Add onion, garlic clove and juniper berries and cook, stirring, until garlic is golden and onion is pale yellow and soft, 6 to 7 minutes. Discard juniper berries and garlic.

Add zucchini and prosciutto and cook, stirring, 3 to 4 minutes.Add rice and cook, stirring, until it is well coated with other ingredients, 1 to 2 minutes. Add a small ladle of simmering broth and cook, stirring, until broth has been absorbed almost completely. Continue cooking and stirring rice in this manner, adding cup or so of broth at a time for about 18 minutes.

When the last addition of broth is almost all reduced, add basil, b.u.t.ter and about half of the Parmigiano. Stir quickly until b.u.t.ter and cheese are melted and rice has a moist, creamy consistency. Taste, adjust seasoning and serve with remaining Parmigiano if desired.

RISOTTO WITH FRESH HERBS.

Risotto alle Erbe Aromatiche A light, delicate risotto, seasoned with an array of fresh herbs, is the perfect summer dish. The last time I made this risotto, I used basil (my favorite herb), oregano, mint, Italian parsley and marjoram, chopped them fine and added them to the risotto during its last few minutes of cooking, so they retained their color and freshness.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 5 to 6 cups Vegetable Broth, page 24, or 3 cups low-sodium canned chicken broth mixed with 3 cups water 5 to 6 cups Vegetable Broth, page 24, or 3 cups low-sodium canned chicken broth mixed with 3 cups water 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil cup finely minced shallots or yellow onion cup finely minced shallots or yellow onion 2 cups Arborio, Carnaroli or Vialone Nano rice 2 cups Arborio, Carnaroli or Vialone Nano rice 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup dry white wine 2 to 3 tablespoons finely chopped mixed herbs (parsley, marjoram, basil, mint) 2 to 3 tablespoons finely chopped mixed herbs (parsley, marjoram, basil, mint) 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (optional) cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (optional)

Heat vegetable broth in a medium saucepan and keep warm over low heat.

Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add shallots and cook, stirring, until shallots are pale yellow and soft, 5 to 6 minutes. Add rice and stir quickly for a minute or two or until rice is translucent and is well coated with savory base. Stir in cup of wine and keep stirring until it is almost all reduced. Stir in remaining wine and cook in same manner. Add cup of simmering broth or just enough to barely cover rice. Cook, stirring, until broth has been absorbed almost completely. Continue cooking and stirring rice in this manner adding broth cup or so at a time, about 18 minutes. At this point rice should be tender but still a bit firm to the bite.

When last addition of broth is almost all reduced, add fresh herbs, b.u.t.ter and Parmigiano if using. Stir quickly until b.u.t.ter and cheese are melted and rice has a moist, creamy consistency. If risotto seems a bit dry, stir in a little more broth. Taste, adjust seasoning and serve.

RISOTTO WITH SPRING VEGETABLES.

Risotto Primavera Use whatever vegetables spring offers.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS 5 to 6 cups Chicken Broth, page 23, or canned chicken broth 5 to 6 cups Chicken Broth, page 23, or canned chicken broth 5 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 5 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 medium onion, finely chopped 2 cups arborio rice, page 5 2 cups arborio rice, page 5 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup fresh asparagus tips, smallest available 1 cup fresh asparagus tips, smallest available 1 cup fresh peas or thawed frozen peas 1 cup fresh peas or thawed frozen peas cup very finely chopped zucchini cup very finely chopped zucchini 1 cup thinly sliced small white mushrooms 1 cup thinly sliced small white mushrooms 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 tablespoons chopped parsley cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese Salt to taste Salt to taste

Prepare Chicken Broth. Heat broth in a medium saucepan and keep over low heat.

Melt 4 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a large saucepan.When b.u.t.ter foams, add onion. Saute over medium heat until pale yellow. Add rice and mix well.When rice is coated with b.u.t.ter, add wine. Cook, stirring constantly, until wine has evaporated. Stir in 1 or 2 ladles of broth, or enough to cover rice. Stir over medium heat until broth has been absorbed. Continue cooking and stirring rice, adding broth a little at a time, about 10 minutes. Add asparagus tips, peas, zucchini and mushrooms. Cook about 10 minutes longer or until rice is done. Rice should be tender but firm to the bite.

Remove pan from heat. Add basil, parsley, cup of the Parmesan cheese and remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter; mix well. Season with salt. Place in a warm dish. Serve immediately with remaining Parmesan cheese.

RISOTTO WITH DRIED MUSHROOMS.

Risotto con i Funghi To get the authentic flavor of this dish, use dried Italian mushrooms.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS 6 to 8 cups Chicken Broth, page 23, or canned chicken broth 6 to 8 cups Chicken Broth, page 23, or canned chicken broth 1 ounce dried wild Italian mushrooms or 1 ounce dried wild Italian mushrooms or pound fresh mushrooms, thinly sliced pound fresh mushrooms, thinly sliced 1 cup warm water, if using dried mushrooms 1 cup warm water, if using dried mushrooms 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, if using fresh mushrooms 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, if using fresh mushrooms 5 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 5 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 medium onion, finely chopped 2 cups arborio rice, page 5 2 cups arborio rice, page 5 cup dry white wine cup dry white wine cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese Salt to taste Salt to taste

Prepare Chicken Broth. If using dried mushrooms, soak in warm water 20 minutes. Drain mushrooms, reserving liquid. Strain mushroom liquid. Rinse mushrooms under cold running water. Squeeze to remove as much moisture as possible. If using fresh mushrooms, saute in 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter until golden; set aside.

Heat broth in a medium saucepan and keep warm over low heat. Melt 4 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a large saucepan.When b.u.t.ter foams, add onion. Saute over medium heat until pale yellow. Add rice and mix well.When rice is coated with b.u.t.ter, add wine. Cook, stirring constantly, until wine has evaporated. Add drained dried mushrooms and reserved mushroom liquid. Stir in 1 or 2 ladles of broth, or enough to cover rice. Stir over medium heat until broth has been absorbed. Continue cooking and stirring rice, adding broth a little at a time until rice is done, 15 to 20 minutes. Rice should be tender, but firm to the bite. Stir in Parmesan cheese, 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter and sauteed fresh mushrooms, if using. Season with salt.

Place in a warm dish. Serve immediately.

Sh.e.l.lFISH RISOTTO.

Risotto con Frutti di Mare Prepare the fish broth a day ahead and cook the sh.e.l.lfish a bit ahead of time, then the cooking and a.s.sembling of the risotto will be a snap.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS Basic Fish Broth Basic Fish Broth 3 pounds fish frames (see Note below) 3 pounds fish frames (see Note below) 1 large onion, coa.r.s.ely chopped 1 large onion, coa.r.s.ely chopped 2 celery stalks, cut into pieces 2 celery stalks, cut into pieces 2 carrots, cut into pieces 2 carrots, cut into pieces 3 parsley sprigs 3 parsley sprigs 2 cups dry white wine 2 cups dry white wine 3 quarts cold water 3 quarts cold water Salt to taste Salt to taste 3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup dry white wine pound clams in sh.e.l.ls, the smallest you can get pound clams in sh.e.l.ls, the smallest you can get pound mussels in sh.e.l.ls, the smallest you can get pound mussels in sh.e.l.ls, the smallest you can get pound scallops, cut into fourths pound scallops, cut into fourths pound shrimp, cut into fourths pound shrimp, cut into fourths 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 garlic cloves, minced Pinch of hot ground chile pepper Pinch of hot ground chile pepper 5 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 5 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 medium onion, minced 1 medium onion, minced 2 cups arborio rice, page 5 2 cups arborio rice, page 5 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup dry white wine 6 to 7 cups Basic Fish Broth 6 to 7 cups Basic Fish Broth 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 tablespoons chopped parsley Salt to taste Salt to taste

Prepare Basic Fish Broth: Rinse the fish frames under cold running water. Combine all the ingredients in a large saucepan and bring the water to a gentle simmer.With a skimmer or a slotted spoon, remove the sc.u.m that comes to the surface of the water. Simmer the broth, uncovered, 1 hour. Strain the broth into a bowl and, if you are not planning to use it right away, cool it to room temperature. It can be refrigerated for a few days or frozen. Strain broth into another saucepan and keep it warm on very low heat.

Prepare sh.e.l.lfish: Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a medium skillet with wine. Add clams and the mussels and cover the skillet. Cook until clams and mussels open, 2 to 3 minutes.Transfer clams and mussels to a bowl. Strain and reserve cooking liquid.

Wipe the skillet clean, then put it back on high heat with remaining olive oil. Add scallops and shrimp and saute until lightly golden, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and chile pepper and stir once or twice. Add the reserved liquid from clams and mussels and stir briefly. Return the clams and mussels to the skillet and turn the heat off.

Prepare the risotto: Melt 4 tablespoons of b.u.t.ter in a large saucepan. When b.u.t.ter foams, add onion. Saute over medium heat until pale yellow. Add the rice and mix well.When the rice is coated with b.u.t.ter, add the wine. Cook, stirring constantly, until wine has evaporated. Stir in 1 or 2 ladles of hot fish broth, or just enough to barely cover the rice. Stir over medium heat until broth has been absorbed. Continue cooking and stirring the rice, adding broth a little at a time about 15 minutes.

Add the sh.e.l.lfish and the pan juices. Stir in the parsley and the remaining b.u.t.ter. Cook 1 to 2 minutes longer. At this point the rice should have a moist, creamy consistency.Taste and adjust the seasoning and serve at once.

Note.

Fish frames are a mixture of fish heads, bones and fish sc.r.a.ps available in fish markets, sold for the purpose of making fish broth.You can a.s.semble your own fish frames by freezing any odd pieces of fish parts.

RISOTTO WITH CHAMPAGNE.

Risotto allo Champagne Whoever created this outstanding dish deserves a toast, with champagne, of course.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS 4 cups Chicken Broth, page 23, or canned chicken broth 4 cups Chicken Broth, page 23, or canned chicken broth 5 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 5 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 medium onion, finely chopped 2 cups arborio rice, page 5 2 cups arborio rice, page 5 4 cups dry champagne 4 cups dry champagne 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese Salt to taste Salt to taste