SWEET AND SOUR LITTLE ONIONS.

Cipolline Agro-Dolci These onions are the ideal accompaniment to any roast.

MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS 3 (10-ounce) or 2 (16-ounce) pkgs. frozen little onions, thawed 3 (10-ounce) or 2 (16-ounce) pkgs. frozen little onions, thawed cup b.u.t.ter cup b.u.t.ter cup packed brown sugar cup packed brown sugar cup red wine vinegar cup red wine vinegar Salt to taste Salt to taste

Drain onions thoroughly on paper towels. Melt b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. When b.u.t.ter foams, add drained onions. Saute until onions begin to color, 5 to 8 minutes. Add brown sugar and stir to coat onions. Add vinegar and salt. Cook 2 to 3 minutes longer. Sauce should be thick and coat onions. Serve hot.

PEAS WITH PROSCIUTTO.

Piselli al Prosciutto Peas cooked this way also make a marvelous, light sauce for noodles.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 1 cup Chicken Broth, page 23, or canned chicken broth 1 cup Chicken Broth, page 23, or canned chicken broth 3 pounds fresh peas or 3 (10-ounce) pkgs. frozen small peas, thawed 3 pounds fresh peas or 3 (10-ounce) pkgs. frozen small peas, thawed 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, thinly sliced 1 medium onion, thinly sliced pound prosciutto, page 4, diced pound prosciutto, page 4, diced Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Prepare Chicken Broth. Sh.e.l.l fresh peas. Bring broth to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add peas. Cook 5 to 10 minutes, depending on size. Drain peas.

Heat oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add onion. Saute until pale yellow. Add prosciutto and peas. Saute 3 to 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Serve hot.

STUFFED ARTICHOKES.

Carciofi Ripieni It takes a little time and patience to prepare these artichokes but they are well worth it.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 4 large artichokes 4 large artichokes 1 lemon 1 lemon 4 slices white bread 4 slices white bread cup plus 3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil cup plus 3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil cup chopped parsley cup chopped parsley 3 garlic cloves, chopped 3 garlic cloves, chopped Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Water Water

Cut off artichoke stems; slice and reserve. Remove and discard hard outer leaves of artichokes. Cut sharp tips off remaining leaves with scissors. Slice off about inch from top end of each artichoke. Open artichokes gently with your hands. Remove fuzzy chokes with a knife or melon baller.Wash artichokes under cold running water.

Slice lemon in half and rub over cut tops of artichokes. Set artichokes with cut part down on paper towels.

Remove crusts from bread. Chop bread into small pieces and place in a medium bowl.Add cup oil, parsley and garlic and season salt and pepper. Mix well.Arrange mixture between artichoke leaves and in centers.

Place artichokes and reserved stems in a large saucepan. Pour water about 1 inch deep in pan. Add 3 to 4 tablespoons oil. Bring water to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and cover pan. Cook artichokes 40 to 60 minutes, depending on size. If water evaporates, add a little more. There should be 4 to 5 tablespoons of sauce left in pan. If too much liquid is left, uncover pan and boil liquid down. Spoon sauce over artichokes and stems. Serve hot.

ROASTED POTATO b.a.l.l.s.

Patatine Arrosto These potatoes are beautiful to look at and delicious to eat.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 8 large Idaho potatoes, peeled 8 large Idaho potatoes, peeled 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 sprigs fresh rosemary or 2 teaspoons dried rosemary 2 sprigs fresh rosemary or 2 teaspoons dried rosemary 2 garlic cloves 2 garlic cloves Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Using a melon baller, scoop potatoes into b.a.l.l.s. Fill a large saucepan half full with salted water. Bring water to a boil. Add potato b.a.l.l.s and boil 1 minute. Drain on paper towels.

Melt b.u.t.ter with oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When b.u.t.ter foams, add drained potatoes, rosemary and garlic and season with salt and pepper. Cook, turning frequently. When potatoes are golden, remove garlic and fresh rosemary, if using. Serve immediately.

POTATO CAKE.

Pinza di Patate This is a different but delicious way to serve potatoes.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 8 large Idaho potatoes 8 large Idaho potatoes 3 eggs 3 eggs Salt to taste Salt to taste 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, melted 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, melted 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons olive oil cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 egg yolk, lightly beaten 1 egg yolk, lightly beaten

Preheat oven to 350F (175C). b.u.t.ter an 8-inch-round cake pan with a removable bottom.

Fill a large saucepan two-thirds full with water. Add potatoes. Bring to a boil. Boil gently until potatoes are tender. Peel and mash potatoes while hot.

Beat 3 eggs with salt in a large bowl. Beat in melted b.u.t.ter and oil. Add mashed potatoes, Parmesan cheese and flour; mix well.

Put potato mixture into b.u.t.tered pan and smooth top with a spatula. Brush top with beaten egg yolk. Bake 20 to 25 minutes or until top is golden. Unmold potato cake and place on a warm platter. Serve immediately.

Salads

am always mystified when people ask me how much garlic or how many herbs I put in my salad dressing. I suppose the false notion that Italian salad dressing should contain every possible herb and seasoning started with the television commercials that advertise bottled or packaged dressing. Nothing could be simpler, tastier and less complicated than an Italian salad dressing. There is never any discussion among Italians on how to dress a salad. It is and always has been a combination of salt, olive oil and wine vinegar. But if you prefer, pepper can be added and lemon juice can replace vinegar.

Often my students want to know exactly how much oil and vinegar to put in a dressing. The amount will depend on the quant.i.ty and kind of salad. As a general rule, be generous with olive oil but stingy with vinegar. Don't forget to taste the dressing before adding it to your salad. I can give you as many proportions of salad dressing as there are salads. But, ultimately, you have to decide. Basically it is the same concept that guides all Italian cooking, whether you come from Veneto or Sicily. The best and freshest ingredients should stand on their own merits. A green or mixed salad needs only excellent olive oil and good wine vinegar to be outstanding.

Salad in Italy is never served before the first course. It is always served after the main course. There are at least two reasons for this. Salad is meant to clean and refresh the palate for cheese, fruit or dessert that follows. Another reason is that the sharpness of the vinegar used in salad dressing would destroy the taste of wine served with the main course.

The salad that follows an important meal should be kept simple. A green salad, or a mixed salad containing tomatoes, carrots, and radishes would be appropriate. Or you could serve a single-vegetable salad using asparagus or string beans. A salad made with mixed cooked vegetables is too substantial to serve with a special meal. Instead, serve it with cheese or eggs to make a light family lunch or supper.

The abundant harvests of spring and summer, with string beans, tomatoes and asparagus bring joy and color to your salads and table. Fall and winter vegetables such as fennel and cauliflower will help you create more unusual salads.

Make sure your vegetables are thoroughly washed and dried before dressing them. To dry lettuce, place it in a kitchen cloth. Hold the corners of the cloth together and shake energetically. Then pat individual lettuce leaves dry with paper towels. Dress your salad only when ready to serve it or it will become soggy and wilted.

I am a firm believer that all good cooking begins in the market.Whether you cook Italian, Chinese or French food, the selection of first-quality ingredients will greatly determine the success of your dish.This is especially true for vegetables and salads because those ingredients will be prepared with a minimum of sauces or dressing.Very often you need not pay extra money for first-quality ingredients.You only need to recognize and select the best from what is available.

FENNEL SALAD.

Insalata di Finocchi Follow your main course with this crunchy salad MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS 2 large fennel bulbs 2 large fennel bulbs 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, finely chopped Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil 3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

Cut off long stalks and bruised leaves from fennels. Slice ends off bulbous bases.Wash fennels thoroughly. Cut into quarters, then horizontally into thin slices. Place in a salad bowl. Add parsley and garlic. Season with salt and pepper. Add oil and vinegar; toss gently. Serve at room temperature.

CAULIFLOWER SALAD.

Cavolfiore in Insalata A great winter salad to make when lettuce is scarce and expensive.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS 1 (2- to 2-pound) cauliflower 1 (2- to 2-pound) cauliflower Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste cup olive oil cup olive oil 1 to 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 to 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

Remove leaves from cauliflower. Slice cauliflower in half. Fill a large saucepan two-thirds full with water. Bring water to a boil. Add cauliflower. Cook over high heat 15 to 20 minutes or until tender. Drain on paper towels; cool.

Detach florets from cauliflower and place in a salad bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Add oil and vinegar; toss gently. Serve at room temperature.

COOKED MIXED VEGETABLE SALAD.

Insalata Cotta A combination of fennel, beans, potatoes and carrots make a colorful addition to any meal.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS 1 large fennel bulb 1 large fennel bulb pound small string beans pound small string beans Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 2 medium potatoes 2 medium potatoes 2 or 3 carrots 2 or 3 carrots 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped parsley cup olive oil cup olive oil 1 to 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 to 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

Cut off long stalks and bruised leaves from fennel. Slice end off bulbous base. Wash fennel thoroughly. Cut into quarters. Fill a medium saucepan half full with salted water. Bring water to a boil. Add fennel. Cook over high heat 10 to 15 minutes or until tender but firm. Drain on paper towels; cool.

Trim and wash beans. Fill a small saucepan half full with salted water. Bring water to a boil. Add beans. Cook over high heat 5 to 10 minutes or until tender but firm. Drain on paper towels; cool.

Fill a medium saucepan two-thirds full with salted water. Bring water to a boil. Add potatoes and carrots. Cook over high heat 10 to 15 minutes. Test carrots. Remove when tender but firm. Drain on paper towels; cool. Cook potatoes 10 to 15 minutes longer or until tender but firm. Peel while hot. Cool 20 to 25 minutes.

Thinly slice fennel. Place string beans and fennel in a salad bowl. Slice carrots into -inch-thick rounds. Add carrots to salad bowl. Cut potatoes into -inch-thick slices. Add potatoes to salad bowl. Sprinkle vegetables with parsley. Season with salt and pepper. Add oil and vinegar; toss gently. Serve at room temperature.

TUNA AND BEAN SALAD.

Insalata di Tonno e f.a.gioli You will find this humble salad appetizing and surprisingly filling.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS 1 to 2 cups dried white kidney or Great Northern beans 1 to 2 cups dried white kidney or Great Northern beans 1 large red onion 1 large red onion 2 (7-ounce) cans Italian tuna, or other tuna in olive oil 2 (7-ounce) cans Italian tuna, or other tuna in olive oil Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 5 tablespoons olive oil 5 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

Place beans in a large bowl. Add enough cold water to cover and let stand overnight. Drain and rinse beans thoroughly.

Place beans in a large saucepan.Add enough cold water to cover. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat. Simmer 50 to 60 minutes, stirring occasionally. Drain beans and let cool.

Slice onion into thin strips. Place in a small bowl with enough cold water to cover. Let stand 1 hour, changing water several times. Drain onion. Pat dry with paper towels.

Place beans in a salad bowl. Add onion to beans. Drain oil from tuna and flake. Add to salad bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Add oil and vinegar; toss gently. Serve at room temperature.

TOMATO SALAD.

Insalata di Pomodori Ripe tomatoes, the fragrance of basil and the goodness of olive oil capture the essence of summer.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 4 large tomatoes 4 large tomatoes Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 8 to 10 fresh basil leaves 8 to 10 fresh basil leaves cup olive oil cup olive oil Wash and dry tomatoes. Cut into slices or wedges. Place tomatoes in a salad bowl. Season with salt and pepper.Tear basil leaves into pieces and add to tomatoes. Add oil; toss gently. Serve slightly chilled.

ZUCCHINI SALAD.

Zucchine in Insalata Select zucchini that are small, firm and a shiny green.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 1 pounds zucchini 1 pounds zucchini Juice of 2 lemons Juice of 2 lemons Salt to taste Salt to taste cup olive oil cup olive oil 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

Wash zucchini. Fill a large saucepan two-thirds full with salted water. Bring water to a boil. Add zucchini. Cook over medium heat 5 to 10 minutes, depending on size. Zucchini should be barely tender. Rinse under cold running water. Pat dry with paper towels. Slice zucchini into -inch-thick rounds. Place in a salad bowl.

Combine lemon juice and salt in a small bowl. Add oil, parsley and garlic; mix until blended.Taste and adjust for seasoning. Pour dressing over zucchini. Serve slightly chilled.