Heat cup of the oil in a large skillet. Add fish. Cook over medium heat until golden, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Drain on paper towels. Season with salt.

Heat remaining oil in a medium skillet over medium heat.Add onions. Saute over medium heat until pale yellow. Increase heat and add vinegar. Bring to a boil and cook about 1 minute, stirring constantly. Add sugar, raisins and pine nuts. Cook 1 minute longer.

Arrange fish in a single layer in a large shallow dish. Spoon onion sauce over fish and sprinkle with parsley. Cover dish. Refrigerate at least 24 hours. Serve at room temperature.

STUFFED GRILLED CALAMARI.

Calamari Ripieni When properly cooked, this odd-looking mollusk is outstandingly delicious.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 16 medium (about 2 pounds total) calamari (squid) 16 medium (about 2 pounds total) calamari (squid) 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 (6-ounce) can tuna in olive oil, plus extra for brushing 1 (6-ounce) can tuna in olive oil, plus extra for brushing 2 garlic cloves, peeled 2 garlic cloves, peeled 4 anchovy fillets 4 anchovy fillets 3 tablespoons chopped parsley 3 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 small eggs 2 small eggs cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 cup dry unflavored bread crumbs mixed with 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 1 cup dry unflavored bread crumbs mixed with 2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Clean calamari. Hold calamari in one hand and gently pull away tentacles. Cut head just below eyes and discard hard little beak inside the tentacles. Remove the calamari pen pen. (This is actually a piece of cartilage that resembles clear plastic.) Clean inside of the body under cold running water, pulling out viscera and any matter still inside.Wash and peel away the grayish skin from body and tentacles. (The skin will come away easily from the body but not from tentacles. If it does not bother you, leave it there because it is edible.) Pat dry skin with paper towels. Reserve 12 calamari for stuffing. Cut remaining 4 calamari and half of the tentacles in small pieces.

Heat oil in a small skillet. Add cut-up calamari and cook, stirring, 30 to 40 seconds. (Do not cook any longer or calamari will become tough.) Add calamari to the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade.Add tuna, garlic, anchovies, parsley, eggs and Parmesan cheese and season with salt and pepper. Pulse on and off until smooth. Fill whole calamari with this mixture and secure the opening of each calamari with one or two wooden picks. (Calamari can be refrigerated for several hours or overnight, but they should be brought back to room temperature before grilling.)

Prepare grill or barbecue. Brush calamari with oil and sprinkle lightly with the bread crumb mixture. Cook 5 to 6 minutes, turning calamari to grill on all sides. Baste a few times with olive oil. Serve hot.

BROILED SHRIMP AND SCALLOPS.

Scampi e Cape Sante alla Griglia Whether you serve this dish as an appetizer or main course, it is equally sensational.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 1 pound medium shrimp 1 pound medium shrimp 1 pound scallops 1 pound scallops cup olive oil cup olive oil cup chopped parsley cup chopped parsley 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped cup dry unflavored bread crumbs cup dry unflavored bread crumbs Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Lemon wedges Lemon wedges

Sh.e.l.l and devein shrimp.Wash shrimp and scallops under cold running water. Pat dry with paper towels.

In a large bowl, combine oil, parsley, garlic, bread crumbs, salt and pepper. Add shrimp and scallops to mixture. Mix until well coated. Let stand 1 hour.

Preheat broiler. Remove shrimp and scallops from marinade. Gently press some extra bread crumb mixture onto shrimp and scallops. Place alternately on 4 to 6 metal skewers. Put skewers under hot broiler.

Broil 2 minutes or until golden.Turn skewers over and broil on the other side 2 minutes or until golden. Serve immediately with lemon wedges.

SCALLOPS VENETIAN STYLE.

Cape Sante alla Veneziana The Italian way with seafood is remarkable for its simplicity.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 1 pounds scallops 1 pounds scallops cup olive oil cup olive oil 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 tablespoons chopped parsley Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Juice of 2 lemons Juice of 2 lemons Wash scallops under cold running water. Pat dry with paper towels.

Heat oil in a medium skillet. Add scallops, garlic and parsley. Season with salt and pepper. Cook over medium-low heat until golden, 5 to 6 minutes, stirring several times during cooking. Add lemon juice and mix well. Place on a warm platter. Serve immediately.

PRAWNS WITH GARLIC AND TOMATO.

Scampi con Aglio e Pomodoro You can find many different kinds of scampi in Italy.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 16 large prawns or 20 medium shrimp 16 large prawns or 20 medium shrimp 1 cup canned crushed Italian-style or whole tomatoes 1 cup canned crushed Italian-style or whole tomatoes cup olive oil cup olive oil 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped cup dry white wine cup dry white wine 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped parsley Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 8 thick slices Italian bread 8 thick slices Italian bread

Sh.e.l.l and devein prawns or shrimp, and wash under cold running water. Pat dry with paper towels.

Press tomatoes through a food mill or sieve to remove seeds.

Heat oil in a large skillet. Add garlic and prawns or shrimp. Saute over medium heat until garlic and prawns or shrimp are lightly colored. Stir in wine.When wine is reduced by half, add tomato pulp. Cook 2 to 3 minutes if using shrimp and 4 to 6 minutes if using prawns. Stir several times during cooking. Add parsley and season with salt and pepper.

Toast bread until golden on both sides. Place prawn or shrimp mixture in a warm dish. Serve immediately with toasted bread.

PRAWNS PEASANT STYLE.

Scampi alla Contadina If you have any sauce left over, cut prawns into small pieces and serve over pasta.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 4 medium tomatoes 4 medium tomatoes 1 pounds prawns 1 pounds prawns cup olive oil cup olive oil 3 or 4 garlic cloves, chopped 3 or 4 garlic cloves, chopped 3 tablespoons dry unflavored bread crumbs 3 tablespoons dry unflavored bread crumbs About 1 cup dry white wine About 1 cup dry white wine 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 tablespoons chopped parsley small red or green hot pepper, finely chopped, or small pinch red (cayenne) pepper small red or green hot pepper, finely chopped, or small pinch red (cayenne) pepper Salt to taste Salt to taste

Peel, seed and dice tomatoes. Sh.e.l.l and devein prawns, and wash under cold running water. Pat dry with paper towels.

Heat oil in a large skillet. Add garlic. Saute over medium heat until garlic begins to color. Add bread crumbs and mix well. Stir in wine and cook until wine is reduced by half. Add diced tomatoes, parsley, hot pepper and prawns. Season with salt and mix well. Cook uncovered over medium heat 8 to 10 minutes, stirring a few times during cooking. If sauce looks too dry, add a little more wine. Place in a warm dish. Serve immediately.

FRIED PRAWNS.

Gamberoni Fritti A crisp green salad and chilled white wine are all you need to complete a light dinner.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 16 large prawns or 20 medium shrimp 16 large prawns or 20 medium shrimp 2 eggs 2 eggs cup all-purpose flour cup all-purpose flour Oil for frying Oil for frying 4 garlic cloves 4 garlic cloves Salt to taste Salt to taste Lemon wedges Lemon wedges

Sh.e.l.l and devein prawns or shrimp, and wash under cold running water. Pat dry with paper towels.

Beat eggs in a medium bowl. Spread flour on aluminum foil. Coat prawns or shrimp with flour, shaking off excess.

Pour oil 1 inch deep in a medium skillet or saucepan. Heat oil until a 1-inch cube of bread turns golden brown almost immediately. Add garlic. Saute garlic until golden, then remove with a slotted spoon.

Dip prawns or shrimp into beaten eggs. Using slotted spoon, lower prawns or shrimps into hot oil. Saute over medium heat until golden. Remove from skillet with slotted spoon. Drain on paper towels. Season with salt.Arrange prawns or shrimp on a warm platter. Garnish with lemon wedges. Serve hot.

ADRIATIC CLAM SOUP.

Brodetto di Vongole If you like clams, you will adore this appetizing preparation. Leftover sauce should be reduced and used over pasta.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 4 pounds clams in sh.e.l.ls, the smallest you can get 4 pounds clams in sh.e.l.ls, the smallest you can get 2 cups dry white wine 2 cups dry white wine 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 4 anchovy fillets, chopped 4 anchovy fillets, chopped 2 ripe tomatoes, seeded and diced 2 ripe tomatoes, seeded and diced cup red wine vinegar cup red wine vinegar 1 cup Basic Fish Broth, page 94 1 (15-ounce) can imported Italian plum tomatoes with juice, put through a sieve or food mill to remove the seeds 1 cup Basic Fish Broth, page 94 1 (15-ounce) can imported Italian plum tomatoes with juice, put through a sieve or food mill to remove the seeds Salt and pepper to taste Salt and pepper to taste 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 8 slices Italian bread, toasted 8 slices Italian bread, toasted

Soak the clams in cold salted water 20 minutes, then rinse and scrub thoroughly under cold running water. Put the clams in a large skillet. Add the wine and 1 tablespoon of the oil and cover the skillet. Cook over high heat until the clams open. With a slotted spoon, transfer the clams to a bowl. Discard any clams that do not open. Strain the liquid through paper towels to remove any sand, and set aside.

Wipe the skillet with paper towels and add the remaining oil. Heat the oil and add the garlic and anchovies. Cook over medium heat until the garlic begins to color, about 1 minute. Add the diced tomatoes and cook, stirring, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the vinegar; cook until it is almost all evaporated.

Add the fish broth, the strained tomatoes and reserved clam liquid. Season with salt and pepper. Cook uncovered over medium heat, stirring, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in the parsley and add the clams. Cook briefly until clams are well coated with the sauce, about 1 minute. Serve with the Italian bread.

Game and Poultry

Most Italians are not great red-meat lovers, but give them white, tender meat, and their enthusiasms and culinary skills will perform wonders.

Most types of poultry and game, like chicken, pheasant and rabbit, have been used in Italian cooking for centuries. Turkey is the exception. It was introduced into Europe from North America by the Spaniards in the early sixteenth century.

In some northern regions, like Lombardy and Piedmont, turkey is served at Christmas. The bird is roasted and stuffed with a mixture of chestnuts, sausage, truffles, apples and prunes.

If turkey is relatively new on Italian tables, chicken is not. The chickens of ancient Rome were kept because they produced eggs. They were so scrawny that they were not considered good enough to eat. Eventually the Romans learned how to fatten chickens. They have been avidly devoured ever since.When we were children, I would often go with my brother and sister to visit an aunt who had a farm twenty miles outside Bologna. Besides climbing trees and rolling in the gra.s.s, we also chased chickens, turkeys and ducks. We would return home loaded with fresh eggs, white flour, country bread and a few live chickens. I still maintain that those were the best chickens my mother ever prepared.

The number of chicken dishes in the Italian repertory is staggering. A chicken can be broiled, baked, stewed or cooked on a spit. It can also be cooked with innumerable sauces, changing it to fit either a simple or an elaborate menu.

Chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s can be used in many ways.They can be breaded and sauteed.They can be pounded and treated like veal scaloppine. Marsala wine combined with cream to make a rich sauce can turn chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s into an elegant meal.

One favorite Italian way of cooking chicken is pan roasting. Using this method, the meat juices are sealed by browning the chicken in b.u.t.ter or oil. Then the heat is reduced and a little liquid is added to prevent the chicken from drying out.

Chicken is a particularly good buy. It is an excellent source of protein, vitamin B and iron. In selecting a chicken or turkey, look for a plump bird with firm meat.The skin should be moist but not sticky. Smell the bird. Any unpleasant odor should deter you from buying it.

In some regions of Italy, rabbit and pheasant are very popular. Rabbit has very little fat. It is delicate in taste with a particular sweet flavor. Rabbit can be cooked in many ways. My favorite method is to braise it in a rich tomato-based sauce. Rabbit cooked this way will retain all its tenderness and moisture. A few slices of steaming polenta make the perfect accompaniment.

Wild pheasant has to be caught, hung, plucked, marinated and cleaned thoroughly before cooking. But the readily available domestic pheasant can be cleaned and cooked much like a chicken. Pheasant, like rabbit, can be fried, roasted or braised. In some regions, pheasant is also cooked on an open spit, basted with lard. However you choose to cook pheasant, serve it with polenta to make an incomparable partnership.

PAN-ROASTED CHICKEN.

Pollo Arrosto in Padella Pan roasting is typically Italian and helps meat to retain its moisture.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 1 (2- to 3-pound) frying chicken, cut into serving pieces 1 (2- to 3-pound) frying chicken, cut into serving pieces 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 garlic cloves, crushed 3 garlic cloves, crushed 2 sprigs fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried rosemary 2 sprigs fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried rosemary Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste cup dry white wine cup dry white wine

Wash and dry chicken thoroughly. Melt b.u.t.ter with oil in a large skillet. When b.u.t.ter foams, add chicken pieces, garlic and rosemary. Brown chicken on all sides over medium beat. Season with salt and pepper. Add wine and simmer until wine is reduced by half. Partially cover skillet. Cook over medium heat until chicken is tender, 30 to 40 minutes. Place chicken on a warm platter.

If sauce looks dry, stir in a little more wine. If sauce is too thin, increase heat and boil uncovered until it reaches desired thickness. Remove most of the fat from sauce.Taste and adjust sauce for seasoning then spoon over chicken. Serve immediately.

ROAST RABBIT.

Coniglio Arrosto Rabbit marinated in oil and vinegar becomes especially tender and flavorful.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 1 (2- to 3-pound) rabbit 1 (2- to 3-pound) rabbit Leaves from 1 sprig fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried rosemary Leaves from 1 sprig fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried rosemary 4 fresh sage leaves or 4 fresh sage leaves or teaspoon rubbed sage teaspoon rubbed sage 2 garlic cloves 2 garlic cloves 10 juniper berries 10 juniper berries Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 4 to 5 tablespoons white wine vinegar 4 to 5 tablespoons white wine vinegar cup olive oil cup olive oil

Cut rabbit into serving pieces or ask the butcher to do so.Wash and dry thoroughly.