Biba's Northern Italian Cooking.

by Biba Caggiano.

Fabulous Food of Northern Italy

I often ask myself: How did I become a cook? And most of all, where does this pa.s.sion and devotion to good food come from? I suppose, it all began in Bologna, the city of my birth and my youth, a city well known all over Italy for the unsurpa.s.sed excellence of its food.

I was literally raised in the kitchen because the kitchen was, at that time, the center and soul of the house. My mother was a great cook. Her food was the simple, straightforward dishes of the area, loaded with aroma and taste, and she prepared it daily with an abundance of love. So, I can truthfully say, that I was raised on a great diet. Good food and love.

When I moved to New York to follow my American-born husband, this heritage of food stayed with me. For almost eight years I worked outside the home, took care of the house and prepared meals for my husband.Then we moved to Sacramento, California, where my time was spent raising our daughters, Carla and Paola, taking care of the house and doing a great deal of cooking for family and friends.

Upon the insistence of some friends, I held my first cooking cla.s.s in my kitchen in 1977. Within a few years I was teaching very popular cla.s.ses in Sacramento and all over California. The food of Northern Italy, with its enormous range, simplicity and great cla.s.sic dishes, had won the hearts of my students.They went home and cooked.They made gnocchi, polenta, pasta and risotto. They learned at the cla.s.ses and in their own kitchen that northern Italian food is simply outstanding and outstandingly simple.

Anyone who has traveled to Italy will tell you that Italian cuisine is unbelievably varied. Before the unification of Italy in 1861, each city-state had different rulers, cultures, customs and dialects. Each also had its distinctive cuisine. Italian food has its roots drawn from peasant cooking. However, for centuries Italy has had popes, courts and great families who have brought a more sophisticated and lavish style to the cuisine.The blending of these two styles of cooking has resulted in la buona cucina casalinga la buona cucina casalinga, good home cooking.

The cooking styles of northern Italy are as diversified as the Italian landscape.The cooking of Piedmont, for example, is very different from the cooking of Emilia-Romagna. Piedmont is dominated by mountains. Its cuisine is robust, sober and elegant. Game, truffles and meats braised in full-bodied wines are all part of Piedmont cooking. This region is also the greatest producer of rice in Europe.

By contrast, Emilia-Romagna is located in one of the flattest parts of Italy with the Appenines in the northwest and the Adriatic Sea to the east.This area is known for its generous use of b.u.t.ter and for pork products that find their way into innumerable dishes. Emilia-Romagna leads Italy in the production of wheat and consequently is famous for the quality of its homemade pasta.

Cooking is second nature for most Italians. Even though certain guidelines are important, there is no place in Italian cooking for rigid rules or formulas.The love of cooking and eating is reflected in everyday life. Shopping is generally done daily to a.s.sure the freshest possible ingredients. Great care is taken in the selection of these ingredients. The Italian cook takes her daily meals seriously. By 11 A.M. she is preparing a sauce or a ragu to be served over pasta at 1 P.M. The country shuts down daily at 12:30 P.M. every day. Italians jump into their cars and fight the chaotic city traffic to reach their homes in order to enjoy lunch, the most important meal of the day, with their families.

Serving a meal properly is almost as important as cooking it well. In an Italian meal, portions are generally small. Pasta, soup, risotto or gnocchi is served as a first course. A small portion of meat or fish with some vegetables follows.Then a simple salad is served dressed with a bit of olive oil and vinegar. Fresh fruit and espresso might end the meal. Desserts are only served on special occasions.

The evening meal is generally much lighter. Often it consists of a clear broth soup, followed by a bit of fish or meat or by a salad and perhaps some cheese.

Today, more than ever, Italian cooking is at everyone's fingertips because of the availability of Italian ingredients. Extra-virgin olive oils, cheeses, wild mushrooms, rice, sun-dried tomatoes, balsamic vinegar, prosciutto and great factory-made pasta, can be found almost anywhere. Keep in mind that Italian cuisine is a skillful blending of ingredients that complement each other. Once you have done that, you will have mastered the art of Italian cooking.

Some Basic Ingredients

Because Italian cuisine is basically simple, each ingredient plays a very important role. Certain dishes cannot be made without a specific ingredient and still be considered authentic. While many ingredients are vital, I also realize that some are often unavailable in smaller towns. I urge you to go the extra mile to find an important ingredient and to subst.i.tute only if you must.

BASIL: Fresh basil is probably the most popular Italian herb. The only subst.i.tute is home-preserved basil. Basil leaves can be preserved between layers of coa.r.s.e salt in tightly sealed jars. They lose some of their green color, but retain the favor. Basil can also be preserved in olive oil.

BROTH: Broth is an important ingredient in Italian cooking. Risotto, for example, cannot be made without it. Broth is also used in sauces, stews and braised meats. Make large batches and freeze it.

b.u.t.tER: b.u.t.ter is widely used in Northern Italy. It is preferred for cooking instead of olive. I prefer to use unsalted b.u.t.ter.

FONTINA CHEESE: Fontina is a delicious cheese from Piedmont. Its delicate flavor enhances many Italian dishes. Subst.i.tute with stronger-flavored Danish fontina only if absolutely necessary. GARLIC: Garlic is widely used in Italian cooking, but it should not be abused. Many dishes that call for garlic need only a hint of it. Choose a large head of garlic with firm, unwrinkled cloves. GARLIC: Garlic is widely used in Italian cooking, but it should not be abused. Many dishes that call for garlic need only a hint of it. Choose a large head of garlic with firm, unwrinkled cloves.

GORGONZOLA CHEESE: This blue-vein cheese comes from Lombardy. Gorgonzola is pungent with a creamy consistency. Subst.i.tute blue cheese, preferably Oregon Blue, only if absolutely necessary.

MARSALA WINE: The best Marsala wine comes from Marsala in Sicily. Dry and sweet types are available. Use dry Marsala for cooking. Its aromatic flavor is essential to many dishes. American Marsala wine is sweeter than the Italian and should be used with discretion. Subst.i.tute dry sherry if Marsala is unavailable.

MOZZARELLA CHEESE: One of Italy's favorite cheeses, the best mozzarella is made from the curd of water-buffalo milk. It is generally stored in water and does not keep very long. It has a creamy and delicate taste. Subst.i.tute domestic mozzarella.

OIL FOR FRYING: For deep-frying use any light-flavored vegetable oil.

OLIVE OIL: In choosing an olive oil, look for a nice green color and a pleasing taste and fragrance. Some of the best Italian olive oils come from Tuscany, Umbria and Liguria. Extra-virgin olive oil, which is the product of the first pressing of the olives, is considered the best. Store olive oil in a tightly capped bottle in a cool, dark place. Use olive oil within a few months or it may turn rancid.

PANCETTA: Pancetta is the same cut of pork as bacon. It is cured with salt and is not smoked. It comes rolled up like a large salami. Widely used in Italian cooking, especially in Emilia-Romagna, it is vital to many dishes. If available, buy a large quant.i.ty, cut into several pieces and freeze it.You can subst.i.tute domestic bacon for pancetta, but it must be blanched in boiling water for two to three minutes to reduce the smoky flavor. Fresh side pork can also be used.

PARMESAN CHEESE: Italian cuisine would not be the same without this cheese. Parmesan is produced in an area between Parma and Reggio-Emilia. It is made under strict regulations. When buying Parmesan, look for Parmigiano Reggiano Parmigiano Reggiano stamped on the crust. The cheese should be straw-yellow and crumbly and moist inside. It is expensive, but a little goes a long way. Buy a small piece and grate only what you need. Wrap the remaining cheese tightly in foil and store in the refrigerator. Domestic Parmesan is subject to different standards and not aged as long. If necessary, domestic Parmesan can be used. Do not use the grated Parmesan sold at the supermarket unless you have no other choice. stamped on the crust. The cheese should be straw-yellow and crumbly and moist inside. It is expensive, but a little goes a long way. Buy a small piece and grate only what you need. Wrap the remaining cheese tightly in foil and store in the refrigerator. Domestic Parmesan is subject to different standards and not aged as long. If necessary, domestic Parmesan can be used. Do not use the grated Parmesan sold at the supermarket unless you have no other choice. PARSLEY: If available, use the large, flat-leaf Italian parsley. Parsley is widely used in Italian cooking. It is a good source of vitamins A and C and also iron. PARSLEY: If available, use the large, flat-leaf Italian parsley. Parsley is widely used in Italian cooking. It is a good source of vitamins A and C and also iron.

PROSCIUTTO: Prosciutto is uncooked, unsmoked ham. It is salted, air-cured and aged a minimum of one year. Italian prosciutto is usually much sweeter than the American counterpart. Prosciutto is widely used in Italian cooking and as an antipasto. Domestic prosciutto is an acceptable subst.i.tute.

RICE: Italian rice is short and thick-grained. It is perfect for risotto. Imported Italian rice such as arborio arborio is available in Italian groceries and specialty stores. California short-grain pearl rice can be subst.i.tuted for arborio. is available in Italian groceries and specialty stores. California short-grain pearl rice can be subst.i.tuted for arborio.

RICOTTA CHEESE: Domestic ricotta is acceptable. It has a creamier consistency than Italian ricotta and is more watery. Never subst.i.tute cottage cheese for ricotta.

ROSEMARY: Rosemary is deliciously aromatic. It is excellent with roasts or in marinades. Dried rosemary is perfectly acceptable.

SAGE: Sage is at its best when used with poultry and game. Use dried sage sparingly because its strong flavor can be overwhelming.

TOMATOES: There is no doubt that a sauce made from meaty sun-ripened tomatoes is unbeatable. Good-quality canned tomatoes make a good subst.i.tute. If possible, choose an imported Italian variety. If using domestic canned plum tomatoes, try several brands to find one that suits your taste.

VINEGAR: Use a good, unflavored wine vinegar.

WILD ITALIAN MUSHROOMS: These are one of the glorious elements in Italian gastronomy. They grow under chestnut trees and are abundant in the fall and spring. Drying wild mushrooms preserves their distinctive flavor. Dried wild Italian mushrooms are available in Italian groceries and gourmet stores.

WINE: If a wine is good enough to drink, it is good enough for cooking. Do not use cheap wine for cooking because the flavor of the dish can be altered by the quality of the wine.

Appetizers

Antipasto means "before the pasta." In the daily family meals, antipasti do not play a very important role. When people entertain or dine out in restaurants, antipasti become the exciting prelude to a special meal. At home, a simple antipasto generally consists of a few slices of sweet prosciutto or local salami, served with ripe cantaloupe or figs. Prosciutto and melon are the ideal antipas...o...b..cause they make a light and delicate combination. means "before the pasta." In the daily family meals, antipasti do not play a very important role. When people entertain or dine out in restaurants, antipasti become the exciting prelude to a special meal. At home, a simple antipasto generally consists of a few slices of sweet prosciutto or local salami, served with ripe cantaloupe or figs. Prosciutto and melon are the ideal antipas...o...b..cause they make a light and delicate combination.

An antipasto should never be overpowering in flavor or quant.i.ty. It should only tease the palate, leaving you with a desire for more.The same rule should be applied when considering an antipasto for entertaining.An antipasto should be planned to complement the meal that will follow. Bear in mind also the wines that will be served. Don't serve an antipasto containing vinegar if a wine is served with it.Vinegar destroys the taste of wine.

In Italy, the best place to see antipasti displayed is in a restaurant. Italians believe that first you eat with your eyes, then with your palate. This is especially true in an Italian restaurant where antipasti are arranged on a large table or appetizer cart. One look at those mouthwatering presentations and your willpower is washed away. Even in the indulgence of a special evening, don't forget the meal that will follow. Select an antipasto that will complement rather than overpower the meal.

Italian antipasti are extremely versatile.They often originate in the imagination of a good cook rather than the pages of a cookbook. Carefully selected antipasti can be served as summer buffets, late suppers or for an impromptu gathering of friends and family. An array of fresh vegetables dipped in olive oil and lemon can either start or end a meal. A cold meat dish such as Cold Veal in Tuna Sauce, page 154, is equally acceptable as an antipasto or an elegant main course.

Most antipasti in this book can be prepared in very little time with a minimum of effort. Some can be prepared ahead. Feel free to improvise. Pay particular attention to the presentation and your meal will be off to a perfect start.

GRILLED PORCINI CAPS.

Porcini alla Griglia In spring and fall when wild mushrooms abound, fresh porcini in Italy are everywhere. These mushrooms with their nut-brown color and meaty caps, are most delicious when grilled, basted simply with extra-virgin olive oil and seasoned with salt and pepper. If you can't find porcini, look for large capped portobello or portabella, and grill them as you would porcini.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 1 pounds fresh porcini mushrooms, or portabella mushrooms 1 pounds fresh porcini mushrooms, or portabella mushrooms cup extra-virgin olive oil cup extra-virgin olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper Salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat leaf Italian parsley, combined with 1 small garlic clove, finely minced 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat leaf Italian parsley, combined with 1 small garlic clove, finely minced

Preheat grill or an outdoor barbecue.

Remove stalks of mushrooms and dark gills and discard. Clean mushrooms thoroughly with a damp towel. Brush mushroom caps on both sides with olive oil and season generously with salt and pepper. Place caps on hot grill and cook, turning them a few times and brushing them with oil, until they are tender, approximately 7 to 8 minutes.

Place caps on individual serving dishes, sprinkle them with parsley and garlic and drizzle with a bit more oil. Serve hot.

PIETRO'S MORTADELLA MOUSSE La Spuma di Mortadella di Pietro Pietro was for many years the chef of Diana, the most venerable restaurant of Bologna. Every time I had dinner there he would bring to the table a small plate of mortadella crostini. Now that mortadella has finally been imported in this country, I can prepare these crostini and serve them before dinner, with a nice gla.s.s of chilled white wine or aperitif.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS pound piece mortadella pound piece mortadella cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese pound ricotta cheese pound ricotta cheese Salt to taste Salt to taste cup Chicken Broth, page 23, or low-sodium canned cup Chicken Broth, page 23, or low-sodium canned cup heavy cream, whipped cup heavy cream, whipped 12 to 14 slices firm-textured white bread 12 to 14 slices firm-textured white bread

Cut mortadella into pieces and place in a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process until mortadella is very finely chopped. Add Parmigiano and ricotta and season lightly with salt. With motor running pour in broth through feed tube until mortadella is completely pureed and mixture is thoroughly blended. Place mixture in a medium bowl and fold in cream.

Transfer mousse into a small, attractive serving bowl, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate 2 to 3 hours or overnight. Leave mousse about 1 hour at room temperature before serving.

To serve, preheat oven to 400F (205C). Lightly oil a baking sheet. Trim crust from bread and cut each slice of bread with a 2-inch-round cookie cutter, or cut them into triangles or rectangles. Arrange bread on baking sheet and place on middle rack of oven. Bake until bread has a light golden color.Turn pieces and brown other side, about 5 minutes.

Place bowl with mousse on a large, round dish and serve with toasted bread for spreading.

Variation For a firmer mousse, use 1 teaspoon gelatin dissolved in 4 tablespoons water, then melt gelatin in a double boiler until it is clear of any lumps and stir it into mortadella mixture.

Tip Mortadella can be found in Italian delicatessens and specialty food stores. Subst.i.tute baked or boiled ham if unavailable.

SWORDFISH CARPACCIO WITH ARUGULA.

Carpaccio di Pesce Spada Da Pippo, a small trattoria in Cesenatico, is where I enjoyed this delicious swordfish carpaccio. Pale pink flesh of thinly sliced swordfish had been marinated with shallots, lemon juice and olive oil, and was topped by small leaves of bright, green arugula. Make sure to choose the freshest fish, freshest arugula, and a flavorful, light, golden extra-virgin olive oil.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 4 (-inch-thick) large slices swordfish, about pound 4 (-inch-thick) large slices swordfish, about pound Salt to taste Salt to taste 1 to 2 tablespoons very finely minced shallots 1 to 2 tablespoons very finely minced shallots Juice of 1 large lemon Juice of 1 large lemon cup extra-virgin olive oil cup extra-virgin olive oil pound arugula, thoroughly washed and stems removed pound arugula, thoroughly washed and stems removed

Place swordfish slices between 2 large sheets of plastic wrap, and pound them gently until they are thin, almost transparent. (Don't pound them too thin or they might break as you pick them up.) Put slices on individual serving dishes. Season with salt and sprinkle with minced shallots. Dribble some lemon juice and about half of oil over each slice, cover plates with plastic wrap and refrigerate 1 to 2 hours.

Put arugula in a bowl and season with salt.Toss salad with remaining oil and a few drops of lemon juice. Pile a small mound of arugula over swordfish and serve.

CALAMARI SALAD.

Calamari in Insalata Seafood salads are pretty much standard in restaurants and trattorie of Romagna's seacoast. Whether they are made with one or several types of fish, they all have one thing in common: simplicity. The freshest seafood possible, the most flavorful olive oil, only a whiff of garlic and a few drops of lemon juice are all it takes to make this salad outstanding.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 1 recipe Vegetable Broth, page 24 1 recipe Vegetable Broth, page 24 3 pounds calamari (squid), smallest you can find, cleaned as directed on page 107, or 2 pounds cleaned squid 3 pounds calamari (squid), smallest you can find, cleaned as directed on page 107, or 2 pounds cleaned squid 1 garlic clove, peeled and halved 1 garlic clove, peeled and halved 1 cups diced, tender white celery stalks 1 cups diced, tender white celery stalks 1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf Italian parsley 1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf Italian parsley Salt to taste to cup extra-virgin olive oil Salt to taste to cup extra-virgin olive oil 3 to 4 tablespoons lemon juice 3 to 4 tablespoons lemon juice

Prepare Vegetable Broth. Strain it and set aside until ready to use.

When you are ready to poach calamari, bring broth back to a full boil. Add calamari, turn heat off and let them sit in hot broth about 2 minutes. Drain calamari and place in a bowl of ice water to stop cooking. Drain again, pat dry with paper towels, then cut sacs into -inch rings, and tentacles in half lengthwise.

Rub garlic all around inside of a salad bowl and add calamari. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and chill in refrigerator for about 1 hour.

Remove calamari from refrigerator. Add celery and parsley, season with salt and toss with oil and lemon juice. Leave salad at room temperature for about 30 minutes, taste, adjust seasonings and serve.

GRILLED MARINATED VEGETABLES.

Verdure alla Griglia Marinate Almost any vegetable can be used for this dish, which can be served as an appetizer or a side dish.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 2 large red or yellow sweet peppers 2 large red or yellow sweet peppers 1 small, firm eggplant 1 small, firm eggplant 4 small zucchini 4 small zucchini cup red wine vinegar cup red wine vinegar cup olive oil plus extra for brushing cup olive oil plus extra for brushing 2 garlic cloves, finely minced 2 garlic cloves, finely minced Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 8 to 10 fresh basil leaves, finely shredded, or 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley 8 to 10 fresh basil leaves, finely shredded, or 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley

Roast and peel the peppers as instructed on page 18. Cut peeled peppers into large strips and place them slightly overlapping in a large, shallow serving dish. Cut off the ends of the eggplant and cut eggplant lengthwise into -inch-thick slices. Place slices in one layer on a large tray or dish, sprinkle with salt and let stand about 30 minutes. (The salt will draw out the eggplant's bitter juices.) Pat dry with paper towels. Cut ends off zucchini and slice in half lengthwise.