A Journey to America in 1834.

by Robert Heywood.

DIARY OF A JOURNEY TO AMERICA IN 1834

THURSDAY, MAY 1ST, 1834.

Left home quarter past 10 accompanied by my three friends, Mr. Baker, Mr. John Dean, and Cousin Peter Heywood. Took a walk to the Prince's Dock[1]; found my berth situated near the foot of the staircase. Thence we proceeded to Mr. Thornley's office and met with the kindest attention. Received several letters of introduction and valuable information; recommended me to take dollars; sent a clerk with me to the money exchangers and also lent me 150. Just then I saw James Turner pa.s.s by; he got me the money in five minutes. After dinner we drove down with 784 dollars in a bag sealed up, which I deposited in my portmanteau. Embarked at 4 o'clock, got into the river and 1/4 before 6 were towed out by a steamer going to Dundalk. The steamer left us at half-past nine P.M. near the floating lights. Charged 18. 18. 0.; went to tea 1/4 past 8, found nine pa.s.sengers. Had a good deal of conversation with one of them, an American, who seemed to be acquainted with all the packets. Said he supposed the _Britannia_ cost 40,000 dollars. Called a vessel old after ten years. Another pa.s.senger had been in Egypt and seemed familiar with most parts of America; thought I should have ample time in two months to see the most interesting parts of America, including Canada. Recommended a covering during the night to guard against the mosquitoes. Went to bed about eleven. Slept in drawers and stockings with a night-shirt in addition, there being rather scanty narrow bed clothes. The sea placid so as to allow getting comfortably to bed.

FRIDAY, MAY 2ND.

Had a good night, wakened by the crowing of c.o.c.ks, etc. Our live stock very considerable, consisting of a cow for milk, sheep, turkeys, geese, ducks, hens, etc. Got up at 6-1/2, a fine morning. Breakfast at 8, of fish, beef, mutton, omelettes, tea and coffee. A file of New York papers had been left in the night by an American packet. Found the steerage pa.s.sengers had a place like the Black Hole of Calcutta, the foolish people not consenting to have their trunks, etc., removed below.

Began reading "A Tour through Canada." Found one of the pa.s.sengers going out to a.s.sist at a Methodistic Conference in Canada. This forenoon the Captain told the helmsman to go north about. The wind became favourable.

We left the Welsh coast and came along side of the Isle of Man or rather the Calf. Did not attend lunch and had not much relish for dinner.

Munched one of mother's cakes and took tea which I liked very much. Had a pleasant chat in the evening; was informed about the watches which are reckoned from twelve at noon ringing every half hour till four, making what is called eight bells; then begins again. Retired to rest about half past ten. Soon after being in my berth found considerable heaves 6 or 8 times, then still whilst I counted 20 or 25, then again heaving as before. This is occasioned by what are called the Swells.

SAt.u.r.dAY, MAY 3RD.

Had another good night; rose soon after seven, found ourselves within 3 miles of the coast of Ireland with Cantyre on our right. Heard the Captain speak to a vessel going to Liverpool telling them to report us all well. Breakfasted very well but soon returned upon deck as we expected soon to lose sight of land. A pretty stiff gale about ten which threw the vessel a good deal on one side. Continued in sight of Ireland till past five when the land and we parted for some weeks. About this time I became qualmish and went to the stern to see if I could hasten the catastrophe by putting down my fingers; this did not avail, therefore I descended to open my store of camomile and black currants; no sooner was this accomplished than I became sick three or four times.

I then undressed and rolled into my berth and slept 3 or 4 hours. The ship rolled very much and the water I heard splashing by; it seemed sometimes as if actually going over. Two interesting circ.u.mstances occurred last night. I dreamed that my father was actually alive and in his better way. A poor redbreast made his appearance on the vessel--how he had come there we did not know. What must be the situation of the poor steerage pa.s.sengers, about 100 adults and a numerous set of children? A very happy circ.u.mstance for us rather than the proprietors is that we have only nine pa.s.sengers, so each can have a double berth to himself, a very great comfort indeed, especially when it becomes warm weather.

SUNDAY, MAY 4TH.

Pa.s.sed a tolerable night; attempted to get up to breakfast, but found myself obliged to hurry back to my berth and did not attempt to rise till twelve, and then unable to shave. Sat sometimes in the sunshine and sometimes in the small house, unable to walk and fearful of descending.

Took only a little bread and a sip of brandy and water. Descended about 7 to tea, but obliged to hurry into my berth when I vomited, then drank a cup of tea. Last night I dreamed that I actually saw my dear father alive and cheerful. Several birds resembling sparrows flew about the ship and seemed as if they had made an error in their reckoning as they must be nearly four hundred miles from land. I cannot but deeply sympathise with the steerage pa.s.sengers so crowded, whilst with every attention I cannot but think my own situation miserable.

MONDAY, MAY 5TH.

A pretty good night, but did not rise till ten as I felt sickly. Managed to shave without a gla.s.s. Sickly all day and unable to take exercise.

Sat in the upper house with a quant.i.ty of flannel around my feet; urged by the Captain to take a little chicken broth, did so and to my great surprise found some relish. I also partook of a little chicken; sick several times; descended about 7; again sick, got a cup of tea, took two of the pills. Found my feet very cold, rubbed them warm. Sipped of the currant tea and felt very comfortable.

Morning dawn, crowing of c.o.c.ks, 7-1/2 bell rung round the cabin. 8 breakfast; coffee, tea, beefsteak, mutton-chops, etc. 12 lunch; shins of beef, tongue, etc. 3 dinner; soup, fish, fowls, beef, mutton, pies, puddings, dessert, oranges, nuts, French plums. 7 tea.

TUESDAY, MAY 6TH.

Rise soon after seven. Shaved again without gla.s.s, walked on deck, got breakfast in the upper house with my two clerical friends. Talked about the miseries of Ireland which they both ascribed to the bad effects of popery, which Mr. Hamilton said continued in a worse state than in any other part of the world; one great proof was that the evils were worse in Munster. When I mentioned France, they said infidelity prevailed there, which I admitted to be the case in the large cities. Dined above with the two ecclesiastics. A good deal of rain with little wind. Then blew fair but very cold. An attempt made to put up a stove but one of the pipes was missing. Found myself able to read a little; commenced with Watson's "Life[2]," belonging to Mr. Grindrod. Many gulls flying behind the vessel; a ship in sight northwards. A poor hen escaped from the pen and remained shivering at the stern; on attempting to get her she flew off and fell into the sea and thus escaped having her throat cut by getting drowned; we saw her floating a long way. Hope to have got over my sickness. This evening we all appeared below at tea, being the first time since Sat.u.r.day morning, the sickness continuing from Sat.u.r.day evening to Tuesday morning. Watched the Captain and Mr. Seaton play chess. No great skill displayed.

WEDNESDAY, MAY 7TH.

Pa.s.sed a pretty good night with some curious dreams. Well enough to shave by means of a gla.s.s. Made an error in reckoning the watch bells.

On deck at half-past six. Found we had not progressed much, the wind unfavourable. No tides here, but a.s.sisted by the current make about two knots per hour. About ten an improved N.E. wind which continued most of the day. Cough nearly gone, sickness also, breakfasted pretty well and dined heartily. I and my two clerical friends ordered two bottles of champagne. About two observed a vessel ahead nearing us. Came up soon after five, proved the _A----_ from Havannah bound to St. Petersburgh and had been out 42 days; asked us whence we came and whither bound, also the longitude. Then each parted bidding the other a good voyage.

The first really happy day I spent at sea. All the crew appeared to be recovered excepting a Welshman and his wife who could not be prevailed on to leave their hammocks; could not speak a word of English. Found the steerage pa.s.sengers very respectable poor people from Lancashire, Lincolnshire, Derbyshire, Cheshire, Westmoreland and Yorkshire, some with a pretty good property which they found regularly diminishing. A theological debate with Mr. Hamilton. Read part of Lander's[3] "Travels in Africa."

THURSDAY, MAY 8TH.

Slept well, rose at seven, dressed and shaved without difficulty, but I forgot to rinse out my mouth with water according to my invariable practise. Very cold with stiff breeze, going about 8 knots per hour. At dinner a warm discussion about the state of Ireland. I contended that agitation could only prevail where there was distress. See the state of America; what could D. O'Connell do there? About 5 we had what is called a squall of wind. I went on deck and found the vessel on one side, and scudding steadily through the foaming deep. Gulls still accompanying the ship as if expecting a wreck. So cold, 51, that I remained a good deal below, read nearly 200 pages in Fergusson's[4] "Tour in Canada." The _Britannia_ 125 feet long.

Wines, etc., on board furnished by the steward at the following prices:

Madeira wine per bottle $1.50 Sherry " " 1.50 Port " " 1.25 Claret per bottle 1.25 Champagne per bottle 2 Hock or Moselle per bottle 1.50 Brandy, Gin, Rum, or Whisky } per bottle 1 Punch, Cherry Brandy or Rum Cordial } Porter per bottle 0.37-1/2 Cider " .25 Soda Water " .12-1/4 Saratoga " .25

FRIDAY, MAY 9TH.

Did not rise till the tinkling of the bell. Had not rested well the first two or three hours, cold feet, and afterwards a good deal of rolling and pitching of the vessel. The conversation this morning at breakfast chiefly on the expense of dress. Mr. Seaton showed us a stout box coat charged ten guineas which was p.r.o.nounced very cheap, though I cannot but suppose the same might be had at Bolton for 6. 6. 0. Mr. S.

said that 400 dollars was not unusually paid in America. The wind still from the north and therefore favourable, but still very cold. After dinner played three games at chess with Mr. Seaton and lost them all.

Learned from one of the seamen that the _Britannia_ is about seven years old, and is expected to continue as a packet about two years longer.

Squally again towards night with a good deal of heaving. Tried fishing but not successful. After reading a few pages in Watson's "Life" I went to rest soon after ten. One of the sails appeared old and to have a small hole, as the wind increased it enlarged and presently went into ribbands.

SAt.u.r.dAY, MAY 10TH.

Had a very restless night. After 1 o'clock the ship rolled tremendously and between one and two I heard a considerable b.u.mp, the vessel lurched and we shipped a heavy sea, that is the water flowed over us. I continued in a state of great suspense hearing all sorts of things tumbling about and my looking gla.s.s dashed on to me in my berth; put my knees against one side and my back to the other to prevent being tumbled out. For the first time began to regret coming. Often near asleep and then the vessel so much on one side I could not help fearing it going over. Not being able to sleep I got up before seven A.M. Found the sea very greatly agitated and the atmosphere thick as if occasioned by the foam. Looked over the stern and observed two gulls in pursuit of anything we might throw away. The ocean has the appearance of hills and vales and the heaving on one side I found was occasioned by going up the sides of the hills. Felt qualmish but took some breakfast. After reading Watson's "Life" I turned again into bed till near one P.M. Then went on deck; four disagreeables, cold, no wind and that wrong, rain, and rather sickly. An elderly sailor at the helm said we had a strong gale in the night; but at this time of year it was not much minded and told me it was quite impossible for the ship to go over on one side. Fourteen dismal dirty looking geese turned out to promenade the deck. Saw a ship yesterday. The gale again increased towards evening and I feared a poor night. A very good pancake half way across the Atlantic.

SUNDAY, MAY 11TH.

Had a better night, being greatly relieved by the a.s.surance of the impossibility of the ship being blown on one side. Remained awake several hours and afterwards found it a.s.sist to lie on one's back when the ship is rolling. Whilst on deck the sea suddenly broke over the side. I escaped by means of the boat hung over the side. Mr. Jackson got a complete drenching. After breakfast I proposed having a religious service which was a.s.sented to, and our clerical friends promised to conduct it. At eleven we had the Church of England Service read by Mr.

Hamilton, Mr. Grindrod acting as clerk and also closing the service by an appropriate prayer, alluding to our peculiar situation and praying for a safe voyage; and also those in the other parts of the vessel, also the Captain and family. It was intended to have a sermon preached to the whole crew in the afternoon, but the weather proved too cold. The Captain said we had made three degrees of lat.i.tude since noon the day before; would not admit that we had got half way but thought in a day or two we should want the hatch windows opened. No ship or porpoises to be seen of all day.

MONDAY, MAY 12TH.

Pa.s.sed a good night. About five we seemed quite becalmed, but were glad to find this not the case, the breeze had continued moderately through the night. Sensibly warmer and consequently most of the steerage pa.s.sengers appeared on deck. Much pleased with a number of porpoises swimming alongside of us for a mile or two. A good deal of talk with Captain Kenney about the English n.o.bility, etc., and also with Captain Sketchley, who said he had been more than 40 years at sea, chiefly between Liverpool and New York. His family resides in Liverpool on account of Mrs. S. who could not bear the extremes of the American climate. Find fresh faces on board, most of them have part of their family already gone to America.

TUESDAY, MAY 13TH.

Pa.s.sed a pretty good night though the ship rolled a good deal at times; and I found the sea a good deal agitated. The wind continued to blow hard all day, the vessel rising and falling 10 or 12 yards. Sometimes one side nearly down at the water's edge, and rising up out of boiling foam. Early in the evening the dead-lights[5], those at the stern, were made up lest a sea should rush through; the same with the skylights. The Captain said the gale was very unusual at this season of the year; talked of the vessel being more uneasy than she used to be. Captain Kenney now appeared on deck. During dinner two ducks and sauce were suddenly swept across the table and most of it thrown upon Mr. Cayley.

Towards evening the sky became darker and the storm likely to increase during the night; this we found the case and about ten we rolled tremendously; we all seemed depressed; no cards, not much reading; a few conundrums, etc.

WEDNESDAY, MAY 14TH.

Had a restless night not sleeping till four, when more sail was hoisted that steadied the vessel and I rested comfortably till half past seven.

n.o.body but I and Mr. Grindrod seemed to have been inconvenienced. A delightful change, the wind more favourable and the sea lower, the sun shining. A game called Shuffleboard was introduced with trenchers about 1-1/2 inch thick and 10 in. diameter, counting thus, and the trenchers could be slided within the lines;--claret--2 bottles of champagne being the wagers or results of the game. About twelve I went to lie down, having had so little sleep. Whilst down a ship pa.s.sed to the west of us.

Played two games at Chess with the Captain who beat me though I had quite the game and could have taken his Queen. As heretofore, if successful I became careless, and if the contrary too much depressed.

Stopt up with the card party till after eleven. No gulls to be seen.

+-+-+-+ |1|8|6| +-+-+-+ |5|3|7| +-+-+-+ |9|4|2| +-+-+-+