The common mushroom (_Agaricus campestris_) is the best known esculent, whether in its uncultivated or in a cultivated state. In Britain many thousands of people, notably the lower cla.s.ses, will not recognize any other as fit for food, whilst in Italy the same cla.s.ses have a strong prejudice against this very species.[A] In Vienna, we found by personal experience that, although many others are eaten, it is this which has the most universal preference, yet it appears but sparingly in the markets as compared with others. In Hungary it does not enjoy by any means so good a reputation. In France and in Germany it is a common article of consumption. The different varieties found, as the results of cultivation, present some variation in colour, scaliness of pileus, and other minor features, whilst remaining true to the const.i.tuent characters of the species. Although it is not our intention to enumerate here the botanical distinctions of the species to which we may call attention, yet, as mistakes (sometimes fatal) are often being recorded, in which other fungi are confounded with this, we may be permitted a hint or two which should be remembered. The spores are purple, the gills are at first delicate pink, afterwards purple; there is a permanent ring or collar round the stem, and it must _not_ be sought in woods. Many accidents might have been spared had these facts been remembered.

The meadow mushroom (_Agaricus arvensis_) is common in meadows and lowland pastures, and is usually of a larger size than the preceding, with which it agrees in many particulars, and is sent in enormous quant.i.ties to Covent Garden, where it frequently predominates over _Agaricus campestris_. Some persons prefer this, which has a stronger flavour, to the ordinary mushroom, and it is the species most commonly sold in the autumn in the streets of London and provincial towns.

According to Persoon, it is preferred in France; and, in Hungary, it is considered as a special gift from St. George. It has acquired in England the name of horse mushroom, from the enormous size it sometimes attains. Withering mentions a specimen that weighed fourteen pounds.[B]

One of the commonest (in our experience the _most_ common) of all edible fungi in the public markets of Vienna is the Hallimasche (_Agaricus melleus_), which in England enjoys no good reputation for flavour or quality; indeed, Dr. Badham calls it "nauseous and disagreeable," and adds that "not to be poisonous is its only recommendation." In Vienna it is employed chiefly for making sauce; but we must confess that even in this way, and with a prejudice in favour of Viennese cookery, our experience of it was not satisfactory.

It is at best a sorry subst.i.tute for the mushroom. In the summer and autumn this is a very common species in large tufts on old stumps. In similar localities, and also in tufts, but neither so large, nor so common, _Agaricus fusipes_ is found. It is preferable to the foregoing as an esculent, and is easily recognized by the spindle-shaped stem.

_Agaricus rubescens_, P., belongs to a very suspicious group of fungi, in which the cap or pileus is commonly studded or sprinkled with paler warts, the remains of an investing volva. To this group the poisonous but splendid fly-agaric (_Agaricus muscarius_) belongs. Notwithstanding its bad company, this agaric has a good reputation, especially for making ketchup; and Cordier reports it as one of the most delicate mushrooms of the Lorraine.[C] Its name is derived from its tendency to become red when bruised.

The white variety of an allied species (_Agaricus v.a.g.i.n.atus_) has been commended, and Dr. Badham says that it will be found inferior to but few agarics in flavour.

A scaly-capped fungus (_Agaricus procerus_), with a slender stem, called sometimes the parasol mushroom, from its habit, is an esteemed esculent. In Italy and France it is in high request, and is included in the majority of continental works on the edible fungi.[D] In Austria, Germany, and Spain, it has special "vulgar" names, and is eaten in all these countries. It is much more collected in England than formerly, but deserves to be still better known. When once seen it can scarcely be confounded with any other British species, save one of its nearest allies, which partakes of its own good qualities (_Agaricus rachodes_), though not quite so good.

_Agaricus prunulus_, Scop., and _Agaricus orcella_, Badh., if they be not forms of the same species (which Dr. Bull contends that they are not[E]), have also a good reputation as esculents. They are both neat, white agarics, with a mealy odour, growing respectively in woods and open glades. _Agaricus nebularis_, Batsch, is a much larger species, found in woods, often in large gregarious patches amongst dead leaves, with a smoky mouse-coloured pileus, and profuse white spores. It is sometimes as much as five or six inches in diameter, with rather a faint odour and mild taste. On the continent, as well as in Britain, this is included amongst edible fungi. Still larger and more imposing is the magnificent white species, _Agaricus maximus_, Fr.,[F] which is figured by Sowerby,[G] under the name of _Agaricus giganteus_. It will attain a diameter of fourteen inches, with a stem, two inches thick, and rather a strong odour.

A spring fungus, the true St. George's mushroom, _Agaricus gambosus_, Fr., makes its appearance in pastures, usually growing in rings, in May and June, and is welcome to mycophagists from its early growth, when esculent species are rare. It is highly esteemed in France and Italy, so that when dried it will realize as much as from twelve to fifteen shillings per pound. Guillarmod includes it amongst Swiss esculents.[H] Professor Buckman says that it is one of the earliest and best of English mushrooms, and others have endorsed his opinions, and Dr. Badham in writing of it observes, that small baskets of them, when they first appear in the spring in Italy, are sent as "presents to lawyers and fees to medical men."

The closely allied species, _Agaricus albellus_,[I] D.C., has also the reputation of being edible, but it is so rare in England that this quality cannot be put to the test. The curious short-stemmed _Agaricus brevipes_, Bull,[J] has a similar reputation.

Two singularly fragrant species are also included amongst the esculent. These are _Agaricus fragrans_, Sow., and _Agaricus odorus_, Bull. Both have a sweet anise-like odour, which is persistent for a long time. The former is pale tawny-coloured, nearly white, the latter of a dirty pale green. Both are white-spored, and although somewhat local, sufficient specimens of _Ag. odorus_ may be collected in the autumn for domestic use. We have the a.s.surance of one who has often proved them that they const.i.tute an exquisite dish.

A clear ivory-white fungus, _Agaricus dealbatus_, of which a crisped variety is occasionally found in great numbers, springing up on old mushroom beds in dense cl.u.s.ters, is very good eating, but rather deficient in the delicate aroma of some other species. The typical form is not uncommon on the ground in fir plantations. A more robust and larger species, _Agaricus geotrupes_, Bull, found on the borders of woods, often forming rings, both in this country and in the United States, as well as on the continent of Europe, is recognized as esculent.

We may add to these three or four other species, in which the stem is lateral, and sometimes nearly obsolete. The largest and most common is the oyster mushroom (_Agaricus ostreatus_, Jacq.[K]), so universally eaten, that it is included in almost every list and book on edible fungi; it is the most common species in Transylvania, tons of it sometimes appearing in the markets. It does not possess that delicate flavour which is found in many species, and although extolled by some beyond its merits, it is nevertheless perfectly wholesome, and, when young and carefully cooked, not to be despised. It must not be confounded with a very similar species (_Agaricus euosmus_, B.), with rosy spores, which is unpleasant. _Agaricus tessellatus_, Bull, _Agaricus pometi_, Fr., _Agaricus glandulosus_, Bull, are all allies of the foregoing, and recorded as edible in the United States, although not one of the three has. .h.i.therto been recorded as occurring in Great Britain. To these may also be added the following:--_Agaricus salignus_,[L] Fr., which is rare in England, but not uncommon abroad and in the United States. In Austria it is commonly eaten. _Agaricus ulmarius_,[M] Bull, is common on elm trunks, not only in Britain but also in North America, and is by some preferred to the oyster mushroom. An allied species, _Agaricus fossulatus_, Cooke,[N] is found on the Cabul Hills, where it is collected, dried, and forms an article of commerce with the plains. Another, but smaller species, is dried in the air on strings pa.s.sed through a hole in the short stem (_Agaricus subocreatus_, Cooke), and sent, it is believed, from China to Singapore.

The smallest species with which we have any acquaintance, that is edible, is the "nail fungus" (_Agaricus esculentus_,[O] Jacq.), scarcely exceeding one inch in diameter of the pileus, with a thin rooting stem. The taste in British specimens when raw is bitter and unpleasant, but it is clearly eaten in Austria, as its name testifies, and elsewhere in Europe. It is found in fir plantations in the spring, at which season it is collected from the fir woods around and sent to Vienna, where it is only used for flavouring sauces under the name of "Nagelschwamme."

Before quitting the group of true agarics, to which all hitherto enumerated belong, we must mention a few others of less importance, but which are included amongst those good for food. Foremost of these is a really splendid orange species (_Agaricus caesarius_, Scop.[P]), which belongs to the same subgenus as the very deleterious fly-agaric, and the scarcely less fatal _Agaricus vernus_, Bull. It is universally eaten on the continent, but has. .h.i.therto never been found in Great Britain. In the same subgenus, _Agaricus strobiliformis_,[Q] Fr., which is rare in this country, and probably also _Agaricus Ceciliae_, B. & Br.[R] Besides these, _Agaricus excoriatus_, Schaeff., _Agaricus mastoideus_, Fr., _Agaricus gracilentus_, Kromb., and _Agaricus holosericeus_, Fr.,[S] all belonging to the same subgenus as the parasol mushroom, more or less uncommon in England.

Although the larger number of esculent agarics are white-spored, some few, worthy of note, will be found in the other sections, and notably amongst these the common mushroom and its congener the meadow, or horse mushroom. In addition to those already enumerated, might be included also the _Agaricus pudicus_, Bull, which is certainly wholesome, as well as its ally, _Agaricus leochromus_, Cooke,[T] both of which have rusty spores.

The late Dr. Curtis,[U] in a letter to the Rev. M. J. Berkeley, enumerates several of the fungi which are edible amongst those found in the United States. Of these, he says, _Agaricus amygdalinus_, Curt., can scarcely be distinguished when cooked from the common mushroom. _Agaricus frumentaceus_, Bull, and three allied new species, peculiar to the United States, are commended. _Agaricus caespitosus_, Curt., he says, is found in enormous quant.i.ties, a single cl.u.s.ter containing from fifty to one hundred stems, and might well be deemed a valuable species in times of scarcity. It would not be highly esteemed where other and better species can be had, but it is generally preferred to _Agaricus melleus_, Fr. It is suitable for drying for winter use. In the same communication, he observes that the imperial (_Agaricus caesarius_, Scop.), grows in great quant.i.ties in oak forests, and may be obtained by the cart-load in its season; but to his taste, and that of his family, it is the most unpalatable of fungi, nor could he find any of the most pa.s.sionate mycophagists who would avow that they liked it. There is a disagreeable saline flavour that they could not remove nor overlay. In addition to these, the same authority enumerates _Agaricus russula_, Schaeff., _Agaricus hypopithyus_, Curt., and _Agaricus consociatus_, Curt., the latter two being confined to the United States; _Agaricus columbetta_, Fr., found in Britain, but not eaten, as well as _Agaricus radicatus_, Bull.

_Agaricus bombycinus_, Schaeff., and _Agaricus speciosus_, Fr., are found in Britain, but by no means common; _Agaricus squarrosus_, Mull., has always been regarded with great suspicion in this country, where it is by no means uncommon; _Agaricus cretaceus_, Fr., and _Agaricus sylvaticus_, Schaeff., are close allies of the common mushroom.

Dr. Curtis says that hill and plain, mountain and valley, woods, fields, and pastures, swarm with a profusion of good nutritious fungi, which are allowed to decay where they spring up, because people do not know how, or are afraid, to use them. By those of us who know their use, their value was appreciated, as never before, during the late war, when other food, especially meat, was scarce and dear. Then such persons as I have heard express a preference for mushrooms over meat had generally no need to lack grateful food, as it was easily had for the gathering, and within easy distance of their homes if living in the country. Such was not always the case, however. I remember once, during the gloomy period when there had been a protracted drought, and fleshy fungi were to be found only in damp shaded woods, and but few even there, I was unable to find enough of any one species for a meal, so, gathering of every kind, I brought home thirteen different kinds, had them all cooked together in one grand _pot pourri_, and made an excellent supper.

One important use to which several species of fungi can be applied, is the manufacture of ketchup. For this purpose, not only is the mushroom, _Agaricus campestris_, and the horse mushroom, _Agaricus arvensis_, available, but also _Agaricus rubescens_ is declared to be excellent for the purpose, and a delicious, but pale, extract is to be obtained from _Marasmius oreades_. Other species, as _Coprinus comatus_, and _Coprinus atramentarius_, are also available, together with _Fistulina hepatica_, and _Morch.e.l.la esculenta_. In some districts, when mushrooms are scarce, it is stated that almost any species that will yield a dark juice is without scruple mixed with the common mushroom, and it should seem without any bad consequence except the deterioration of the ketchup.[V] There is an extensive manufacture of ketchup conducted at Lubbenham, near Market Harborough, but the great difficulty appears to be the prevention of decomposition.

Messrs. Perkins receive tons of mushrooms from every part of the kingdom, and they find, even in the same species, an immense difference in the quality and quant.i.ty of the produce. The price of mushrooms varies greatly with the season, ranging between one penny and sixpence per pound. Messrs. Perkins are very careful in their selection, but little discrimination is used by country manufacturers on a small scale, who use such doubtful species as _Agaricus lacrymabundus_, with _Agaricus spadiceus_, and a host of allied species, which they characterize as nonpareils and champignons. In the eastern counties _Agaricus arvensis_ has the preference for ketchup.

The generic distinctions between the genuine Agarics and some of the allied genera can hardly be appreciated by the non-botanical reader, but we have nevertheless preferred grouping the edible species together in a somewhat botanical order; and, pursuing this plan, the next species will be those of _Coprinus_, in which the gills are deliquescent after the plant has arrived at maturity. The maned mushroom (_Coprinus comatus_, Fr.)[W] is the best of edible species in this group. It is very common here by roadsides and other places, and whilst still young and cylindrical, and the gills still whitish or with a roseate tint, it is highly to be commended. Similar, but perhaps somewhat inferior, is _Coprinus atramentarius_, Fr.,[X]

equally common about old stumps and on the naked soil. Both species are also found and eaten in the United States.

In _Cortinarius_, the veil is composed of arachnoid threads, and the spores are rusty. The number of edible species are few. Foremost is the really handsome _Cortinarius violaeus_, Fr.,[Y] often nearly four inches in diameter, and of a beautiful violet colour; and the smaller _Cortinarius castaneus_, Fr.,[Z] scarcely exceeding an inch in diameter, both being found in woods, and common alike to Britain and the United States. _Cortinarius cinnamomeus_, Fr., is also a lover of woods, and in northern lat.i.tudes is found inhabiting them everywhere.

It has a cinnamon-coloured pileus, with yellowish flesh, and its odour and flavour is said to partake of the same spice. In Germany it is held in high esteem. _Cortinarius emodensis_, B., is eaten in Northern India.

The small genus _Lepista_ of Smith, (which, however, is not adopted by Fries in his now edition of the "Epicrisis") includes one esculent species in _Lepista personata_, the _Agaricus personatus_ of Fries.[a]

It is by no means uncommon in Northern Europe or America, frequently growing in large rings; the pileus is pallid, and the stem stained with lilac. Formerly it was said to be sold in Covent Garden Market under the name of "blewits," but we have failed to see or hear of it during many years in London.

Small fungi of ivory-whiteness are very common amongst gra.s.s on lawns in autumn. These are chiefly _Hygrophorus virgineus_, Fr.,[b] and although not much exceeding an inch in diameter, with a short stem, and wide decurrent gills, they are so plentiful in season that quant.i.ty soon compensates for the small size. Except that it is occasionally eaten in France, it does not enjoy much reputation abroad. A larger species, varying from buff to orange, _Hygrophorus pratensis_, Fr.,[c] is scarcely less common in open pastures. This is very gregarious in habit, often growing in tufts, or portions of rings. The pileus is fleshy in the centre, and the gills thick and decurrent. In France, Germany, Bohemia, and Denmark, it is included with esculent species. In addition may be mentioned _Hygrophorus eburneus_, Fr., another white species, as also _Hygrophorus niveus_, Fr., which grows in mossy pastures. _Paxillus involutus_, Fr.,[d]

though very common in Europe, is not eaten, yet it is included by Dr.

Curtis with the esculent species of the United States.

The milky agarics, belonging to the genus _Lactarius_, are distinguished by the milky juice which is exuded when they are wounded. The spores are more or less globose, and rough or echinulate, at least in many species. The most notable esculent is _Lactarius deliciosus_, Fr.,[e] in which the milk is at first saffron-red, and afterwards greenish, the plant a.s.suming a lurid greenish hue wherever bruised or broken.

Universal commendation seems to fall upon this species, writers vying with each other to say the best in its praise, and mycophagists everywhere endorsing the a.s.sumption of its name, declaring it to be delicious. It is found in the markets of Paris, Berlin, Prague, and Vienna, as we are informed, and in Sweden, Denmark, Switzerland, Russia, Belgium; in fact, in nearly all countries in Europe it is esteemed.

Another esculent species, _Lactarius volemum_, Fr.,[f] has white milk, which is mild to the taste, whilst in deleterious species with white milk it is pungent and acrid. This species has been celebrated from early times, and is said to resemble lamb's kidney.

_Lactarius piperatus_, Fr., is cla.s.sed in England with dangerous, sometimes poisonous species, whereas the late Dr. Curtis, of North Carolina, has distinctly informed us that it is cooked and eaten in the United States, and that he has partaken of it. He includes _Lactarius insulsus_, Fr., and _Lactarius subdulcis_, Fr.,[g]

amongst esculent species; both are also found in this country, but not reputed as edible; and _Lactarius angustissimus_, Lasch, which is not British. Species of _Lactarius_ seem to be eaten almost indiscriminately in Russia when preserved in vinegar and salt, in which condition they form an important item in the kinds of food allowed in their long fasts, some _Boleti_ in the dried state entering into the same category.

The species of _Russula_ in many respects resemble _Lactarii_ without milk. Some of them are dangerous, and others esculent. Amongst the latter may be enumerated _Russula heterophylla_, Fr., which is very common in woods. Vittadini p.r.o.nounces it unsurpa.s.sed for fineness of flavour by even the notable _Amanita caesarea_.[h] Roques gives also an account in its favour as consumed in France. Both these authors give favourable accounts of _Russula virescens_, P.,[i] which the peasants about Milan are in the habit of putting over wood embers to toast, and eating afterwards with a little salt. Unfortunately it is by no means common in England. A third species of _Russula_, with buff-yellow gills, is _Russula alutacea_, Fr., which is by no means to be despised, notwithstanding that Dr. Badham has placed it amongst species to be avoided. Three or four others have also the merit of being harmless, and these recorded as esculent by some one or more mycological authors: _Russula lactea_, Fr., a white species, found also in the United States; _Russula lepida_, Fr., a roseate species, found also in lower Carolina, U.S.; and another reddish species, _Russula vesca_, Fr., as well as _Russula decolorans_, Fr. Whilst writing of this genus, we may observe, by way of caution, that it includes also one very noxious red species, _Russula emetica_, Fr., with white gills, with which some of the foregoing might be confounded by inexperienced persons.

The chantarelle _Cantharellus cibarius_, Fr., has a most charming and enticing appearance and odour. In colour, it is of a bright golden yellow, and its smell has been compared to that of ripe apricots. It is almost universally eaten in all countries where it is found, England excepted, where it is only to be met with at the "Freemason's Tavern" on state occasions, and at the tables of pertinacious mycophagists.[j] Trattinnick says: "Not only this same fungus never did any one harm, but might even restore the dead."[k]

The fairy-ring champignon _Marasmius oreades_, Fr., though small, is plentiful, and one of the most delicious of edible fungi. It grows in exposed pastures, forming rings, or parts of rings. This champignon possesses the advantage of drying readily, and preserving its aroma for a long time. We have often regretted that no persistent attempts and experiments have been made with the view of cultivating this excellent and useful species. _Marasmius scorodonius_, Fr.,[l] a small, strong-scented, and in all respects inferior species, found on heaths and dry pastures, extending even to the United States, is consumed in Germany, Austria, and other continental countries, where, perhaps its garlic odour has been one of its recommendations as an ingredient in sauces. In this enumeration we have not exhausted all the gill-bearing species which might be eaten, having included only those which have some reputation as esculents, and of these more particularly those found in Great Britain and the United States.

Amongst the _Polyporei_, in which the gill plates are represented by pores or tubes, fewer esculent species are to be met with than in the _Agaricini_, and the majority of these belong to the genus _Boletus_.

Whilst in Vienna and Hanover, we were rather surprised to find _Boletus edulis_, Fr., cut into thin slices and dried, exposed for sale in almost every shop where meal, peas, and other farinaceous edibles were sold. This species is common enough in England, but as a rule it does not seem to please the English palate, whereas on the continent no fungus is more commonly eaten. This is believed to be the suillus eaten by the ancient Romans,[m] who obtained it from Bithynia.

The modern Italians dry them on strings for winter use, and in Hungary a soup is made from them when fresh. A more excellent species, according to our judgment, is _Boletus aestivalis_, Fr.,[n] which appears in early summer, and has a peculiar nutty flavour when raw, reminding one more of a fresh mushroom. _Boletus scaber_, Fr.,[o] is also common in Britain, as well as the continent, but does not enjoy so good a reputation as _B. edulis_. Krombholz says that _Boletus bovinus_, Fr., a gregarious species, found on heaths and in fir woods, is much sought after abroad as a dish, and is good when dried.

_Boletus castaneus_, Fr.,[p] is a small species with a mild, pleasant taste when raw, and very good when properly cooked. It is not uncommonly eaten on the continent. _Boletus chrysenteron_, Fr.,[q] and _Boletus subtomentosus_, Fr., are said to be very poor eating, and some authors have considered them injurious; but Mr. W. G. Smith states that he has on more than one occasion eaten the former, and Trattinnick states that the latter is eaten in Germany. The late Mr.

Salter informed us that, when employed on the geological staff, he at one time lived almost entirely on different species of Boleti, without using much discrimination. Sir W. C. Trevelyan also informs us that he has eaten _Boletus luridus_ without any unpleasant consequences, but we confess that we should be sorry to repeat the experiment. Dr.

Badham remarks that he has eaten _Boletus Grevillei_, B., _Boletus flavus_, With., and _Boletus granulatus_, L., the latter being recognized also as edible abroad. Dr. Curtis experimented, in the United States, on _Boletus collinitus_, and although he professes not to be particularly fond of the Boleti, he recognizes it as esculent, and adds that it had been p.r.o.nounced delicious by some to whom he had sent it. He also enumerates as edible _Boletus luteus_, Fr., _Boletus elegans_, Fr., _Boletus flavidus_, Fr., _Boletus versipellis_, Fr., _Boletus leucomelas_, Tr., and _Boletus ovinus_, Sch. Two Italian species of _Polyporus_ must not be forgotten. These are _Polyporus tuberaster_, Pers., which is procured by watering the _pietra funghaia_, or fungus stone, a kind of tufa, in which the mycelium is embedded. It is confined to Naples. The other species is _Polyporus corylinus_, Mauri., procured artificially in Rome from charred stumps of the cob-nut tree.[r]

Of true _Polyporus_, only two or three species have been regarded favourably as esculents. These are--_Polyporus intybaceus_, Fr., which is of very large size, sometimes attaining as much as forty pounds; _Polyporus giganteus_, Fr., also very large, and leathery when old.

Both these species are natives of Britain. Only young and juicy specimens must be selected for cooking. _Polyporus umbellatus_, Fr., is stated by Fries to be esculent, but it is not found in Britain.

_Polyporus squamosus_, Fr., has been also included; but Mrs. Hussey thinks that one might as well think of eating saddle-flaps. None of these receive very much commendation. Dr. Curtis enumerates, amongst North American species, the _Polyporus cristatus_, Fr., _Polyporus poripes_, Fr., which, when raw, tastes like the best chestnuts or filberts, but is rather too dry when cooked. _Polyporus Berkeleii_, Fr., is intensely pungent when raw, but when young, and before the pores are visible, it may be eaten with impunity, all its pungency being dissipated by cooking. _Polyporus confluens_, Fr., he considers superior, and, in fact, quite a favourite. _Polyporus sulfureus_, Fr., which is not eaten in Europe, he considers just tolerably safe, but not to be coveted. It is by no means to be recommended to persons with weak stomachs. In his catalogue, Dr. Curtis enumerates one hundred and eleven species of edible fungi found in Carolina.[s]

With _Fistulina hepatica_, Fr., it is different; for here we encounter a fleshy, juicy fungus, resembling beefsteak a little in appearance, and so much more in its uses, that the name of "beefsteak fungus" has been given to it. Some authors are rapturous in their praise of _Fistulina_. It sometimes attains a very large size, Dr. Badham quoting[t] one found by himself nearly five feet in circ.u.mference, and weighing eight pounds; whilst another found by Mr. Graves weighed nearly thirty pounds. In Vienna it is sliced and eaten with salad, like beetroot, which it then much resembles. On the continent it is everywhere included amongst the best of edible species.

The _Hydnei_, instead of pores or tubes, are characterized by spines or warts, over which the fructifying surface is expanded. The most common is _Hydnum repandum_, Fr., found in woods and woody places in England, and on the continent, extending into the United States. When raw, it is peppery to the taste, but when cooked is much esteemed.

From its drier nature, it can readily be dried for winter use. Less common in England is _Hydnum imbricatum_, Fr., although not so uncommon on the continent. It is eaten in Germany, Austria, Switzerland, France, and elsewhere. _Hydnum laevigatum_, Swartz, is eaten in Alpine districts.[u] Of the branched species, _Hydnum coralloides_, Scop.,[v] and _Hydnum Caput Medusae_, Bull,[w] are esculent, but very rare in England. The latter is not uncommon in Austria and Italy, the former in Germany, Switzerland, and France.

_Hydnum erinaceum_, Bull, is eaten in Germany[x] and France.

The Clavarioid fungi are mostly small, but of these the majority of the white-spored are edible. _Clavaria rugosa_, Bull, is a common British species, as also is _Clavaria coralloides_, L., the former being found also in the United States. _Clavaria fastigiata_, D. C., is not uncommon; but _Clavaria amethystina_, Bull, a beautiful violet species, is rare. In France and Italy, _Clavaria cinerea_, Bull, is cla.s.sed with esculents; and it is not uncommon in Britain. _Clavaria botrytis_, P., and _Clavaria aurea_, Schaeff., are large and beautiful species, but rare with us; they extend also into the United States.

Others might be named (Dr. Curtis enumerates thirteen species eaten in Carolina), which are certainly wholesome, but they are of little importance as edible species. _Spara.s.sis crispa_, Fr., is, on the contrary, very large, resembling in size,[y] and somewhat in appearance, a cauliflower; it has of late years been found several times in this country. In Austria it is frica.s.seed with b.u.t.ter and herbs.

Of the true Tremellae, none merit insertion here. The curious Jew's ear (_Hirneola auricula-Judae_, Fr.), with one or two other species of _Hirneola_, are collected in great quant.i.ties in Tahiti, and shipped in a dried state to China, where they are used for soup. Some of these find their way to Singapore.

The false truffles (_Hypogaei_) are of doubtful value, one species (_Melanogaster variegatus_, Tul.) having formerly been sold in the markets of Bath as a subst.i.tute for the genuine truffle.[z] Neither amongst the _Phalloidei_ do we meet with species of any economic value. The gelatinous volva of a species of _Ileodictyon_ is eaten by the New Zealanders, to whom it is known as thunder dirt; whilst that of _Phallus Mokusin_ is applied to a like purpose in China;[AA] but these examples would not lead us to recommend a similar use for _Phallus impudicus_, Fr., in Britain, or induce us to prove the a.s.sertion of a Scotch friend that the porous stem is very good eating.

One species of puff-ball, _Lycoperdon giganteum_, Fr,[AB] has many staunch advocates, and whilst young and cream-like, it is, when well manipulated, an excellent addition to the breakfast-table. A decided advantage is possessed by this species, since one specimen is often found large enough to satisfy the appet.i.tes of ten or twelve persons.

Other species of _Lycoperdon_ have been eaten when young, and we have been a.s.sured by those who have made the experiment, that they are scarcely inferior to their larger congener. _Bovista nigrescens_, Fr., and _Bovista plumbea_, Fr., are also eaten in the United States. More than one species of _Lycoperdon_ and _Bovista_ appear in the bazaars of India, as at Secunderabad and Rangoon; while the white ant-hills, together with an excellent Agaric, produce one or more species of _Podaxon_ which are esculent when young. A species of _Scleroderma_ which grows abundantly in sandy districts, is subst.i.tuted for truffles in Perigord pies, of which, however, it does not possess any of the aroma.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 43.--_Morch.e.l.la gigaspora_, from Kashmir.]

Pa.s.sing over the rest of the sporiferous fungi, we find amongst the _Ascomycetous_ group several that are highly esteemed. Amongst these may first be named the species of morel, which are regarded as delicacies wherever they are found. _Morch.e.l.la esculenta_, Pers., is the most common species, but we have also _Morch.e.l.la semilibera_, D.

C., and the much larger _Morch.e.l.la cra.s.sipes_, Pers. Probably all the species of _Morch.e.l.la_ are esculent, and we know that many besides the above are eaten in Europe and other places; _Morch.e.l.la deliciosa_, Fr., in Java; _Morch.e.l.la bohemica_, Kromb., in Bohemia; _Morch.e.l.la gigaspora_, Cooke, and _Morch.e.l.la deliciosa_, Fr., in Kashmere.[AC]

_Morch.e.l.la rimosipes_, D. C., occurs in France and Bohemia; _Morch.e.l.la Caroliniana_, Bosc., in the Southern United States of America. W. G. Smith records the occurrence in Britain of specimens of _Morch.e.l.la cra.s.sipes_, P., ten inches in height, and one specimen was eleven inches high, with a diameter of seven and a half inches.[AD]